Hi all
A month ago i changed my engine du to a blown headgasket, the old engine has pretty much miles (over 160 000miles) so i decided to get a new one with exactly the same engine code (only 80 000miles).
I've kept all my original electronic units, i only changed the engine.
I've just ended installing the new engine, changed the following parts by the way :
- Lot of gasket/seals (flywheel, manifold, A/C ...)
- New crank sensor
- New ping (choc) sensors
- New fuel pump
- Filled up the tank
- Synchronized the DME/EWS
- New spark plug
...
The car just crank the same way (check the video) and refuse to start, i've tested the following elements :
- No incoming fuel (except if i jump the 30 and 87 pin of the pump relay so the pump can be "forced" to work, in this case i have fuel and pressure)
- No spark
- Fuses are ok
EWS synch :
813780EWSsynch.png
I have this error but i dont know what it does mean ..
194709BMWscanner.png
The video :
Where did you buy the crank sensor? Did you space it properly with respect to the flywheel, so that the nominal gap of 50 mm (IIRC) is maintained?
Last edited by edjack; 12-18-2016 at 05:12 PM.
Ed in San Jose '97 540i 6 speed aspensilber over aubergine leather. Build date 3/97. Golden Gate Chapter BMW CCA Nr 62319.
Ed, think you meant to say 0.5mm
D'oh!
Ed in San Jose '97 540i 6 speed aspensilber over aubergine leather. Build date 3/97. Golden Gate Chapter BMW CCA Nr 62319.
Thanks guys for your answeres.
The crank sensor is from Delphi (good known parts supplier)
I didn't know about the "spacing" of the crank sensor i just removed the old then installed the new one. You mean that i have to leave the sensor kinda floating a little bit ?
No, it doesn't float. There are shims to set the space. In most cases you probably won't need shims.
If your using a crank sensor that is not OE and a bit longer than the factory OE sensor then a shim may be required to keep the flywheel teeth from hitting the sensor.
You could compare the mounting surface to tip distance on both sensors, if they are the same you don't need a shim.
Your engine seemed to be cranking over very fast, almost like you don't have enough compression.
update....
just re-read your 1st post.....did you replaced the flywheel?
Did you install it the the exact same position as the one you took off?
If not that is your problem.
Did you check the 5 fuses in the back of the DME box?
Last edited by JimLev; 12-19-2016 at 09:30 AM.
Hi Jim,
The two crank sensors are exactly the same and have the same dimensions.
Yersterday i've ordered a compression kit, i'll update once i've done the compression tests.
To be more specific i've bought the engine from a garage, he told me that it comes from an automatic E39 (mine is manual), all i have to do is removing the "automatic" flywheel then reusing mine, which i've done without any trouble.
I may be mistaken but when i've installed my flywheel i couldn't do it wrong because it has only one mounting way.
I've replaced the flywheel seal also, i dindn't see any sensor around or anything else (like VW TDI for example which needs a special tools to remove and reinstall the seal, otherwise the car wont start)
For the EBOX fuses, here's a picture of what i had from factory (car working perfectly)
Then i switched the 20A and the 30A to match the indications in the plastic cover but nothing changes.
Fuses tested, they are not blown.
Yesterday i've tried to test my spark/coil plug, i have nothing, it seems like the DME wont activate fuel and spark.
The same goes for the fuel pump (which is new btw), when i activate the EKP relay (fuel pump relay) using INPA i can hear the incoming fuel and pressure near the manifold but the car doesn't want to start as you can see in the video.
This is just crazy ....
The only sensor for flywheel rotation is in the tranny.
Is it possible that the ring that you show in the back of the crank fell out and is now in the wrong location?
You can verify if the flywheel is in the correct position on the crank by turning it until the crank lock pin hole in the flywheel aligns with the hole that is used to lock the crank, then check the TDC mark on the harmonic balancer to see if it aligns with the TDC mark on the lower timing cover.
For some reason I can't post a pic, will try later.
Last edited by JimLev; 12-20-2016 at 09:01 AM.
Have you made sure that you didn't mix up the connectors for the reverse light switch and crank position sensor?
Looks like you painted your valve covers, did you make sure that the coils are grounded to clean metal?
Did you do a compression test?
Try the old camshaft position sensor?
Test the fuel pressure at the schrader valve?
Try replacing the fuel relay?
Try you valet key or another key?
The World is ruled by Kings and Queens that blind your eyes and steal your dreams.
When answering my questions please use a qualifier if you are not sure.
The more I work on this car the less I respect German engineering.
When you speak in Absolutes you are always wrong!
Semper Fi
Hi all, and thanks for your comments i really appreciate.
First i'm gonna try to answer all of you the best i can, i think this topic could be helpful for people who are facing the same problem.
I don't think the ring could even move, i've used a hammer with a piece of wood to tapp on it so it enter the housing uniformly.
Ok, i take note of your tips about checking the flywheel position.
I think (thought) the same !
Swerik, here is my answer to you.
What a head-shot man !
I've switched the ignition on then selected reverse to check for back lights = no lights = reverse light switch !
After switching the connectors, light comes on !
This is so shame i'm feeling so ridiculous O.M.G ....
Big thanks to Swerik
It's really stupid to make the same connector for 2 different sensors, couple of days ago when i was installing back the wires i told myself to be careful about all these plugs then said "anyway every switch has unique plug so no worries" ..
Anyway, this is a good news but the car is still not starting, at the beginning it cranks the same way as before (see the video) but slows down after 5/6 seconds of cranking, during this period of time i can hear the exhaust "poc.....poc....poc" as it was going to start but it doesn't happen..
The battery is out of charge, i'm using my big diesel car (running engine) with the big diesel cables to give it enough power.
Any idea ? i'll try to spray some starter fluid into the air filter/intake.
AFAIK, the EWS inhibits the starter motor, so I believe the problem lies elsewhere.
If the crank sensor signal is not present, or out of sync, the ECU inhibits spark and injectors. The engine will still spin over on the starter.
Ed in San Jose '97 540i 6 speed aspensilber over aubergine leather. Build date 3/97. Golden Gate Chapter BMW CCA Nr 62319.
Try the starter fluid, you will only need a few short squirts.
If there is no fuel in the rail you'll need to do it a few times.
sounds like a timing issue.
did you buy an OEM crank sensor? maybe try the old one now that the wiring is correct.
did you replace the crank pulley? is the pulley installed correctly? if its not the timing will be way off
double check the coil wiring?
any new codes?
I'm curious about what your statement above, "used a hammer to tap it in".
So was the ring not in the back of the crank and you put it in?
I'm pretty sure it could be inserted in any one of the bolt holes.
If its in the wrong hole the engine won't run or it will run very bad.
(Hourang, crank pulley is keyed as is the harmonic balancer so it can only go on one way)
Last edited by JimLev; 12-20-2016 at 06:19 PM.
I'll try this.
As said before the crank sensor is from Delphi, a pretty good parts supplier here.
I'll try the old one to see if there's a change.
I didn't touch the crank pulley.
Coil wiring is ok, already checked several times.
Just to be clear, we are talking about the part N°13 in the following schema right ?
Sorry about my poor English, but i meant that i had to remove the old shaft seal then put the new one instead, to fit it correctly i've used a regular piece of wood which i place on the seal then i tap delicately.
I do it always this way and have never had any trouble.. the new seal took exactly the same place as the previous one.
About the flywheel holes i remember that i've tried to put it in different position and couldn't, there is only one possible position, i don't have a better picture but you can see a hole with a a driver, it help to put the flywheel in the right position, in addition it has a different spacing compared to the other holes.
Tomorrow :
- Diag/Scna for codes
- Re-instaling the old crank sensor
- A short start fluid
- Spark/coil check
...
Dont you think that i need some little oil into the cylinders ? as the engine has not been working for over 1 year..
OK, you were talking about hammering in the crankshaft seal. I thought you were talking about the locating ring on the back of the crank.
Yes, a little oil in each cylinder would be good. Put some in and crank the engine over without the plugs in to lube the cylinders. Then put the plugs in.
Hi again,
Did some tests and changes, here's the details :
First i've installed the old genuine crank sensor (the one on the transmission) then i gave it a try = nothing the car is still wanna start but it doesn't.
Next i checked the spark plug, there is some fuel on it and it smells gasoline, that's pretty good.
Next step, i removed the camshaft sensor then installed the old one (genuine) and then tried to start .... the car started immediately,had some little white smoke combined with condensation because of cold weather, then stopped after 5 seconds.
Tried again, it starts and gets better, no more smoke but the car has a pretty bad sound (like a diesel) idle is really weak and unstable, so i decided to change the ICV, taken from my old engine.
It gets a little bit better, i swapped the 8 coil from my old engine which really improved the engine sound but i'm still having a very low and unstable idle.
I may have to replace the CVV even if it's almost new.. (not a BMW one by the way).
Before you watch the video, my car has a custom stainless exhaust, i've deleted the silencer and the "Y" but kept the original catalyzer and heir sensors of corse
Video uploading on youtube .. i'll update asap
EDIT : the video
Last edited by RabzorGT; 12-21-2016 at 09:47 AM.
dont remember if its been done but have you cleaned the ICV? MAF?
look for vacuum leaks? a can of starting fluid or something flammable will help you locate it
also, is your guage an oil pressure guage or US spec MPG? sorry im new to bmw's but mine looks totally different. if that is oil pressure, is your pressure sensor hooked up or bad? if you have no oil pressure, that would explain the ticking...
Hi
ICV is from my old engine.
I'll clean it and check for leaks.
I have an european E39, so the 3 gauges i have are as following :
Left side : fuel (tank) in litters.
The middle one (with the rpms) : instant consumption gauge in litter/100km.
The right one : temperature in degree Celsius.
It's not oil pressure problem, by the way I've already replaced the oil pressure sensor some weeks ago.
Before engine swap everything was working perfectly, i think I can trust the parts from old engine.
I've already had this idle problem when I took out the manifold last year, I don't think it's a problem itself but just a leaking somewhere or an adaptation to do..
ok yeah i thought so.
also check for vacuum leaks with a can of something flammable.
can also unplug the MAF and see how it idles. maybe even unplug the ICV if cleaning doesnt help.
clean the throttle body as well, a tooth brush with some tbody safe spray works the best for me. if the blade cant close all the way due to buildup, it can throw off the idle.
Hi guys,
Coming back with some good news, the car is now starting and idling almost correctly, my ICV was completely stuck, i had to clean it up, then i could hear the valve moving inside the ICV when shaking it a bit which was not possible before.
When cold, the idle is still difficult to maintain, i think it's because of my exhaust i would like to tight a bit more my exhaust manifold pipes > cats, but i don't know the recommended torque for this bolts/nut?
Could you please give me this information please ?
Parts 4 and 5 in this schema ( http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=18_0300 )
Thanks
depending on how loose it is, you might just need a new Gasket ring #3. otherwise if its really loose, just tighten it really good, do not use a cheater/breaker bar or anything. i doubt you can break them with a hand wrench.
A loose/leaking gasket shouldn't really effect your idle.
I drove my car about 10 miles with open headers, just the pre O2 sensors connected.
It idled and ran fine, just a little LOUD.
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