Subwoofer output

[ss2115]

I took the plunge and purchased the new EononG6201F for my 2002 E39.
No problems with the unit apart from the internal microphone being lousy. Liked the radio display better than any others, and the features etc. Bluetooth works well.

Reason to address this forum though is that the ***** Sales or Tech do not know much about their own product has been a problem. But I battled through a few connection problems with them and eventually worked it all out except for one thing - the subwoofer output.
Its a single output. I've asked them over a period of four weeks if the subwoofer output is full frequency (eg: 20hz - 20Khz) or if its already shaped and filtered - eg: 20hz - say 400hz perhaps.
They do not reply. Obviously they don't know themselves I feel.

Does anyone here know?
And before anyone jumps in to say of course its filtered or it wouldn't be a dedicated subwoofer output, its also a dedicated subwoofer output because being a single line its a composite of both Left and right hand channels - doesn't necessarily mean its full frequency or not.
I'm hoping someone can advise me - perhaps an installer who has tested and knows, or anyone who has experience with ***** units and knows their typical design philosophy.

[DennisCooper]

Hi,

On this forum, that brand name is automatically filtered out when typed in because some years ago they provided very little after care and support to purchasers who experienced nothing but problems/issues. On other forums, they were removed as well, again due to very poor support and a lot of unhappy purchasers.

I'm not surprised at all they can't answer your question directly.

You need to have your unit powered up and connect the subwoofer output to the normal input of an amplifier i.e a full range input. Then on the speaker level output for that channel, connect a full range speaker. If you hear mid range and treble, then you know the output from the head unit is 'full range'. If you hear the low's and no midrange and no treble then the output from the head unit is a 'low pass filtered' output.

'Hopefully' your unit from that brand will continue to work with no more issues and niggles. If you do still get them, consider junking the unit, and getting a premium brand double DIN that's far superior in every way instead.

Cheers, Dennis!

[ss2115]

Hi,

On this forum, that brand name is automatically filtered out when typed in because some years ago they provided very little after care and support to purchasers who experienced nothing but problems/issues. On other forums, they were removed as well, again due to very poor support and a lot of unhappy purchasers.

I'm not surprised at all they can't answer your question directly.

You need to have your unit powered up and connect the subwoofer output to the normal input of an amplifier i.e a full range input. Then on the speaker level output for that channel, connect a full range speaker. If you hear mid range and treble, then you know the output from the head unit is 'full range'. If you hear the low's and no midrange and no treble then the output from the head unit is a 'low pass filtered' output.

'Hopefully' your unit from that brand will continue to work with no more issues and niggles. If you do still get them, consider junking the unit, and getting a premium brand double DIN that's far superior in every way instead.

Cheers, Dennis!

Hi Dennis and thanks for the reply.

I was aware of the reputation of 'that who shall not be named', but I also had some some other forums where the buyer had also been aware of the poor reputation, gone ahead and was quite pleased.
I did for a long time toss and turn over the decision or to go with Avin or Dynavin but in the end I just couldn't bring myself to pay all that extra money for what were essentially the same units - bar Windows v Android.
They want a lot of money and here in Australia $1100 couldn't be justified over $600 for the G6201F.
I don't know for sure of course, but I have a sneaky suspicion that the Avin unit is just a E unit anyway - made to order perhaps, rebadged perhaps. But they are very similar in a lot of ways.
And there was no way I was going to have a Windows unit in the car. Had enough poor experiences with Windows on phones in the past.

I am actually pleased with the head unit. It fits properly and correctly. Out of all the ones I looked at I liked the Radio GUI best (and after all, it whats mostly going to be on screen).
I liked the input range and just like the 'big two' it had all the correct cabling and plugs for essentially plug n play.
It mostly was PnP other than transferring the CAN box over between short power cable to long cable and a small problem with the internal microphone which was easily solved by disconnecting it and then the external one became excellent - crystal clear.
I have to say I rather like the unit.

Support responded to anything I asked other than the subwoofer. They always tried to help but it seems they just don't know their own product or their english is so poor that they couldn't explain it properly perhaps. They always replied inside of 48 hours. They also replied over weekends.
I guess what I'm trying to say is that they tried to be attentive and assist but their lack of knowledge of their own product is what astounded me.
I don't regret the purchase - as yet anyway.

In regards sussing out the subwoofer output what you propose is perfectly sensible other than I don't have any sort of portable nor 12v amp I can trot out and run in the load area of my car where the subwoofer cable ends. I want to buy a monoblock amp and 8" subwoofer but won't purchase until I know what amp to buy - depends on the filtering or not of this 'those who will not be named' subwoofer output. Catch 22.
But I did appreciate you replied - thank you and have a great Xmas holiday.

[Onizukachan]

Whether it is full range or not is irrelevant, honestly.
The monblock amp you buy should have a crossover in it already that will filter out anything that shouldn't get thru to the sub.

[ss2115]

Whether it is full range or not is irrelevant, honestly.
The monblock amp you buy should have a crossover in it already that will filter out anything that shouldn't get thru to the sub.

Hi Onizukachan and thanks for your input.
Actually, the reason I have been chasing this down is that I have been considering a full range speaker (woofer and tweeter or woofer/midrange/tweeter) instead of just a subwoofer on its own due to the BMW Nokia speakers being a bit poor. It doesn't worry me that this would be a mono composite of the right and left hand channels because its right at the back of the station wagon and stereo image won't be such a concern up on the seats between the door speakers. I just need some quality sound in the car but not prepared to upgrade every OEM speaker to achieve it.

My theory is that if the subwoofer output is full range I'd consider a studio grade speaker combo to lift the perceived sound quality. If the subwoofer output is filtered, then I wanted to pick an amp and speaker that could at least cover the same range as being outputted - eg; no point in installing a 20 - 500 hz amp and speaker if the output is only 50 - 300hz.
I'd like the bass speaker to cover as much as possible to be seamless with the remainder of the system. eg: subwoofer output is 50 -500hz but speaker and amp is only 50 - 300hz - leave a hole between 300 to 500hz which is significant.

So if the subwoofer output was full range, it does mean I can choose an amp and speaker combo that covers 50 - 500hz and obtain a smoother transition into the subwoofer region.

I've since finally received a reply from those that shall not be named that the subwoofer output is 120hz - 400hz which seems odd to roll off as high as 120hz.
I'm now thinking to run additional lines to the rear from the full range L&R line out's and go to a monoblock amp with L&R inputs and then adjust the monoblocks filtering and level controls as you suggest to get the smooth transition I seek from a single bass and midrange speaker combo.

[DennisCooper]

Hi,

Buy a high quality head unit and you'll get something that was actually designed as a car audio head unit! What you have now is a cheap tablet's electronics fitted to a chassis that fits into specific car dashboards, so no wonder you aren't getting an 'actual' sub bass output!

Also, if you are as 'audio aware' about frequency ranges and how speakers cover those ranges, then the cheap head unit you've got is the weak point of your setup. Looking at your details, it sounds as though you have an E39 Touring, and so do I! Here's my writeup of what I did in my Touring to get an excellent sound at a medium level of expense and complexity;

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...mate-Audio-BMW (scroll around halfway down the first page)

The simplest setup for you would be a high quality head unit capable of providing excellent audio sound quality, a bridgeable amplifier to give a healthy 75-100W RMS to the front and perhaps 300-500W RMS to a subwoofer. When installing some excellent 2 way component speakers in the front doors in much more solid baffles and the subwoofer in the rear cubby's, you should get some very good staging, imaging and much better sound quality than what you'd get with your current 'poor' choice unit !

Cheers, Dennis!

[Artofkicking]

What size / type of subwoofer? 2 X 4" or something else?

.......
I've since finally received a reply from those that shall not be named that the subwoofer output is 120hz - 400hz which seems odd to roll off as high as 120hz.
I'm now thinking to run additional lines to the rear from the full range L&R line out's and go to a monoblock amp with L&R inputs and then adjust the monoblocks filtering and level controls as you suggest to get the smooth transition I seek from a single bass and midrange speaker combo.

[ss2115]

I went ahead.
Very happy with the results.
2 x 6.5inch long throw speakers in parallel being driven by a bridged Kenwood amp.
Bought a left and right line out to the amp so getting a mono speaker output from combined left and right channels. Not filtered but full range.
Compliments the cars standard speaker system really well. In fact the bass is tight and crisp and sounds like its coming out of all the standard door speakers - ie; completely non-directional.
Not boomy even on MP3's.
Printed my own speaker grills.

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