Got the car, and it's really pretty clean, other than some ruined (crappily buffed, properly swirled) clear coat and one decent rust spot. Mechanically it's solid, and I'm installing a new clutch and shifter +all shifter bushings and detent pins this weekend hopefully! Parts are on their way. I bought this as a true beater car, so I'm determined to not be too sad when I'm missing tail lights
Another question for OP- Was your stock clutch holding I can only afford a stock cltuch right now, and mine is blown, and slips while street driving- can't even do a burnout. I'm hoping a fresh stocker will have enough grab for at least my first few events....
Last edited by awp235; 04-25-2017 at 11:14 AM. Reason: Added question
it's not bad, it does get overheated and will slip if you kick the crap out of it. A trick you can use is buying a slightly smaller disk from another application. It'll give extra bite because there's more pressure per square inch on the disk. I've been sinking my money into my rock crawler this spring and I'm probably about to surface my flywheel, run a flap disk over the pressure plate and bolt up a centerforce disk, for a 4cyl wrangler, I have laying around
The stock clutch disk is 10 spline 1.125. Same as a jeep. The 6cyl wranglers are 10" diameter and the 2.5 4cyl wranglers are 9". The stock 328 clutch is 9.4"
Welcht....Your jeep knowledge is showing again!
Interesting thought though. I'm guessing to run a jeep plate, I'd need the SMF conversion to run a sprung clutch, as opposed to the stock Dual mass setup. I actually reused my mildly shitty looking DMF, although it looked heat scored, it had almost no play in it. So I saved some cash there, and the clutch feels amazing with absolutely no chatter at all. I'm looking forward to my Ebrake extension, and have one question about it- How much travel does it take you to lock your rear brakes? I think the back plate on my right parking brake might be screwed up, but I'll likely throw your extension on, and just see if it locks both wheels.
Maybe 3"? Really depends on your cables, shoes, and rotors.
The car is still doing great. Got my driveshaft all figured out. It's been an awesome upgrade for the track.
Seat time is my goal for 2018. Don't really plan to do much to the car. It does still need subframe bushings and I need to plate the chassis back there still. Otherwise I don't plan to do much to the car outside of maintain it. 20180212_145907.jpg20180118_142854.jpg
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Here's a short real from Sunday
https://m.facebook.com/events/389761...06403516478480
Well that drive shaft isn't going anywhere.
Wow people are already having events in february. Our season opener is march 25th. But I'm ok with that seeing as my car is on jackstands still.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
There is no reason to even have an off season here in the south. We don't get snow. Cars run better in the cold anyway.
Off-season is the ghey.
off season is build season! That's when I try to sell all my stuff. And then fail because no one wants my stuff
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
here in SA we had events in nov, dec, jan, feb, etc. but recently got some new organizers under the Club Loose banner (Club Loose Texas) and we aint had one in awhile. first one is march 8th.
LOL our season starts in late April / Early May. We just have some play days in between but attendance is usually low since everyone strips their cars over the winter
Lucky you guys! Here in the northeast we've got no play days until late april. Welcht, I'm plating my rear around the subframe mounts next month, I guess while it's out I'll be doing all the bushings and trailing arms and stuff like that. If I've got the motivation, maybe I'll even paint my subframe some crazy color...
That center drive shaft bracket.... wow... custom fab?
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