misfires on multiple cylinders p1341-47

[jcrail]

I have a 2000 740i E38 and the codes are as follows: p1341,p1343,p1345,p1347. It seems as if my whole right side or passenger side of the engine is misfiring according to the description of these codes. It also lost a good bit of power and stutters a bit under acceleration.The engine also stalls at first and idles very rough when it's cold outside. (below 40 degrees F) It didn't do this much earlier in the year. It also has blue smoke on startup if I don't run it for a couple days. I replaced the MAF over the summer as well because it threw a code for that. But then this creeped up later.Just curious, did anyone ever have a similar issue. Could it be the cps on that side or could it be a pre-cat O2 sensor? Any pointers would be great. Thanks

[Mayorchuck]

With the smoke, you could have a bad PCV which can cause your other symptoms as well. Check the links below for information. Cold weather also brings out vacuum leaks as gaskets and rubber boots harden. Did you replace the MAF with a Bosch? Aftermarkets can cause issues on this car. Take a look at the spark plug wells to see if there is oil sitting in them. The valve cover gaskets leak inside that area causing oil to pool in the wells.

http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e31/BMW_M60...entilation.htm

http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e32/PCV/Index.htm

[jcrail]

Yes I replaced it with a genuine Bosch MAF. After I replace that it cleared my MAF code that I had before . But now a new series of codes completely different this time.Also there's not much oil in the spark plug tubes, but some for sure. I seen WAY worse without misfires.I didn't really get much sucking at all from the oil dipstick tube either. According to alot of people that's a good indicator of a bad osv. I thought that 1343 45 and 47 we're all on the passenger side. (1-4)? Does anyone know the exact description of these codes for BMW?

[jcrail]

So has anyone had these exact series of codes and if so what about the symptoms? The fix? Does anyone have an accurate description to these codes? I don't have even one of those codes listed in that link.

[Timm]

The codes are for multiple misfires with fuel cut-off and misfires on cylinders 1, 2 and 3 - so all on one bank and quite likely a blocked cat on that side:

http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e31/E31_840...l_Throttle.htm

[jcrail]

OK I'll test the cat when I can.

[jcrail]

The cat on that bank was 10 degrees cooler on the outlet pipe than the inlet on what looks like the back cat after running it for 15 mins. But I'm not sure because it looks like it has 4 cats under there. Not sure how reliable this test is when you have 4 cats. I guess I could try a smog test. Will try to update.

[tomloans]

Swap cam sensors to see if it Follows the bank

[jcrail]

Well I just got done swapping the cps's. I cleared the codes, went for a drive and of course I get the exact same codes. No new codes So the problem never followed. So if it's not the cps then what is it? It seems to really bog down/shake when I accelerate aswell. Even worse now actually.

[Timm]

It's still a blocked cat........

[jcrail]

OK is there any reliable way to test for a bad cat? Something preferably at home? The temp test doesn't really seem accurate.

[tomloans]

OK is there any reliable way to test for a bad cat? Something preferably at home? The temp test doesn't really seem accurate.

It will rattle when bang on. Bang on both sides. U will hear it.

[shenofjo]

Someone's got a case of the bad kitties

[jcrail]

Well I'm not convinced that the cat is plugged. I ran vacuum test and it seems that back pressure is definitely not backing up and breathes well. Gauge returns back to idle range quite fast.Also no rattling from cat. The inlet and outlet temps seem within normal range too.BUT the vac gauge did seem to indicate the timing was off. it doesn't sit in the green/normal range. says it's advanced while sitting at idle.And I replaced the spark plugs on bank 1 all cylinders( 2 of them were terribly fouled up) and it smooth out the idle for the most part and removed code p1347.But I still have that higher rpm major drag in acceleration but no violent shaking under heavy acceleration like before I changed the spark plugs. Now I'm stuck with remaining codes 1341,1343,1345. (cylinder 1&2 misfire). It Seems kinda torquey on lower end but ounce it starts climbing it drags. Has no performance anymore.?You really wouldnt notice driving under normal conditions. So I'm wondering, I have that notorious rattle at cold first start coming from motor that I heard could be chain tensioner. Its kinda loud initially.Also has a pretty audible click/ almost knock sound on bank 1 on the lower end of the motor only after it warms up. hmm.Heard it could be the chain guides are wore.So could I have slack in the chain? Jumped a tooth? Wouldn't it throw other obd2 codes if it out of time? If it was out of time(even a little) wouldn't it misfire on all cylinders with bank 2 included? Or could this be a vanos issue?Not sure but I'm hoping it's not too late to replace that tensioner because it definitely has that major rattling sound on the initial cold start. Thanks for any help on this it's pretty baffling.

[tomloans]

Well I'm not convinced that the cat is plugged. I ran vacuum test and it seems that back pressure is definitely not backing up and breathes well. Gauge returns back to idle range quite fast.Also no rattling from cat. The inlet and outlet temps seem within normal range too.BUT the vac gauge did seem to indicate the timing was off. it doesn't sit in the green/normal range. says it's advanced while sitting at idle.And I replaced the spark plugs on bank 1 all cylinders( 2 of them were terribly fouled up) and it smooth out the idle for the most part and removed code p1347.But I still have that higher rpm major drag in acceleration but no violent shaking under heavy acceleration like before I changed the spark plugs. Now I'm stuck with remaining codes 1341,1343,1345. (cylinder 1&2 misfire). It Seems kinda torquey on lower end but ounce it starts climbing it drags. Has no performance anymore.?You really wouldnt notice driving under normal conditions. So I'm wondering, I have that notorious rattle at cold first start coming from motor that I heard could be chain tensioner. Its kinda loud initially.Also has a pretty audible click/ almost knock sound on bank 1 on the lower end of the motor only after it warms up. hmm.Heard it could be the chain guides are wore.So could I have slack in the chain? Jumped a tooth? Wouldn't it throw other obd2 codes if it out of time? If it was out of time(even a little) wouldn't it misfire on all cylinders with bank 2 included? Or could this be a vanos issue?Not sure but I'm hoping it's not too late to replace that tensioner because it definitely has that major rattling sound on the initial cold start. Thanks for any help on this it's pretty baffling.

How many miles do you have on the car? If the tensioner has not been replaced, it needs to be. If the morning rattle goes away then you are fortunate for the time being. Do you get the code p0011 or p0021?

When my guides were broken I also had the loss of power at that rpm range but I had codes. Also I had one bad coil once that also gave me a loss of power. Again I had codes.

What is important is that if your guides are broken, you should quit driving the car so let's get the tensioner replaced. 30 minute job. Be sure to replace the washer too. Then start the car for a microsecond then turn it off as it will make a horrible sound at first. Then started again until it is running smoothly. Then let it sit until the morning. If you still have morning rattle then I would drop the oil pan and look for plastic in your pan.

[jcrail]

153,00mi is what i can make out since im missing pixels. And yes the rattle is only on the first cold start. Never after the second or if it ran earlier in the day. Ill get the tensioner replaced asap it's easy from what I understand. You don't have any other codes at all. Just the misfires on banks 1.And I'll drop the pan and look for chunks of plastic soon as possible. Will update when I can.

[tomloans]

153,00mi is what i can make out since im missing pixels. And yes the rattle is only on the first cold start. Never after the second or if it ran earlier in the day. Ill get the tensioner replaced asap it's easy from what I understand. You don't have any other codes at all. Just the misfires on banks 1.And I'll drop the pan and look for chunks of plastic soon as possible. Will update when I can.

There are only a handful of cars in this forum that have gone past 150k miles without the chain guide repair. Mine went at 113K. The only question is why you dont have the death code P0011? Also the chain tensioner may mask the morning sound. All depends on the condition of the plastic break. Here is my discourse when mine was acting up...I was completely green to it all.

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...light=tomloans

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...light=tomloans

[jcrail]

Thanks for the help, anyways. I gotta say this form has been very helpful for sure. I feel this car is definitely not worth putting that much money and time in so I'm going to junk it or sell it as as a parts car.Don't know anyone that would even want this car with all the leaks and other problems that has it's a nightmare. It's sad that I hear so many of these cars go to the junkyard because of this problem. Not that it's a cheaply made car but they're designed to fail prematurely and really f****** empty your pockets. For people that like to piss away money .Hell I know billionaires personally that avoid these cars lol. Seriously they're very Thrifty Penny Pinchers.

[Frankie]

Relax. Why not take Timm's advice and get your cats checked? And remember, your car is almost 17 years old.

[XAlt]

There are only a handful of cars in this forum that have gone past 150k miles without the chain guide repair. Mine went at 113K. The only question is why you dont have the death code P0011? Also the chain tensioner may mask the morning sound. All depends on the condition of the plastic break. Here is my discourse when mine was acting up...I was completely green to it all.

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...light=tomloans

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...light=tomloans

Hahahaha, the majority have made it past that mark. If yours went at 113k in California, bad luck but don't try that alarmist trick. Stay on the lookout for the real death rattle or P0011, but people need to stop calling chain guides on every little problem.

Mileage is a factor, but not the only one. Startup rattle is related to the VANOS, the new tensioner helps some oil get in there before the drainback valve, but in the end it does basically nothing but mask the noise.

Cats all the way, don't even test them. People get into the denial stage when they look at the tests.

[Jantzen001]

still have that problem or has it been corrected?

[tomloans]

Hahahaha, the majority have made it past that mark. If yours went at 113k in California, bad luck but don't try that alarmist trick. Stay on the lookout for the real death rattle or P0011, but people need to stop calling chain guides on every little problem.

Mileage is a factor, but not the only one. Startup rattle is related to the VANOS, the new tensioner helps some oil get in there before the drainback valve, but in the end it does basically nothing but mask the noise.

Cats all the way, don't even test them. People get into the denial stage when they look at the tests.

Seriously? I just dont want his chain to skip and then have his engine seize with bent valve stems. That is not alarmist - that is careful. JCRAIL, please pull your pan and be sure you dont have a problem. It is better to be safe than sorry with this one issue on these cars. The majority of folks have not gone much over 150K before guides have failed.

Definitely check your CATs you may have multiple issues.

[XAlt]

Seriously? I just dont want his chain to skip and then have his engine seize with bent valve stems. That is not alarmist - that is careful. JCRAIL, please pull your pan and be sure you dont have a problem. It is better to be safe than sorry with this one issue on these cars. The majority of folks have not gone much over 150K before guides have failed.

Definitely check your CATs you may have multiple issues.

Death rattle alerts you way before it happens, and if it jumps timing who cares. Aother disposable E38 off the road, and OP is already getting his escape plan ready. But it's obvious that the car isn't experiencing chain guide symptoms.

The majority of cars over 150k have made it with original guides. No code, no noise, no problem.

You can drive with P0011 all day until it makes noise.

[jcrail]

Probably because people are scaring me with these costs for fixes and other horror stories that I really don't want to deal with.

[oatmealwithwate]

Blue Smoke? Could be PCV. When mine went I had Blue Smoke, a sucking sound from the oil dipstick, and a flashing engine light with a horrible idle!