DeadPool DEFEATED! -- 540i6 Front Mount Turbo Build

[tptrsn]

Oooof. That one is on there.

I thought you picked up a couple M60's?

Haha, yeah, so did I... When I went to pick up the second one it was this M62b44. The dude says it came out of a '95 or '96 740i I think (I can't remember which he said). He suspected it may have been swapped in as a Nikasil M60 replacement.

Good question Thad... I just know that's what 'everyone says'... a quick google suggests that what happens is you start to get past an optimal point (i.e. EGT's going down) and then you start to dramatically increase cylinder pressures which drive EGT back up again... perhaps not as high as a really retarded "burning out in the manifold" point, but it does go back up again.... And its those high pressures + now-rising-again-temps that burn valves from overly advanced timing... So... short answer is temp-increase-due-to-pressure I guess.

Very interesting...

What are you using to hold your crank? (heh. hold your crank.)

A little Beavis and Butthead moment there. Never goes out of style!

That is actually the holder tool from a rather elaborate set of cooling fan wrenches I guess that set would be called...? I got the set out intending to drill some holes in one of the giant wrenches so I could bolt it to the crank pulley hub, but then I figured I'd give that holder tool a shot, and it worked well enough to break my ironically named breaker bar. I guess it's not too bad!

[geargrinder]

Somewhere on the list of "some day if I have a spare motor and/or stumble on the right junkyard motor" is to grab another crank pulley and weld a bar on for a homebrew M6x crank holder. In fact I was gonna do that but then local bud of Jim and mine (Cwise) hooked me up with a loan of his knockoff crank holder, which itself is hard to beat for the price really... Still I think about fabbing my own 'just to have' next to my timing tools.

For that matter I have a factory pulley come to think of it although I like still having my 'if I ever return to stock' parts around (ha. like that'd ever happen.)

[tptrsn]

Funny you mention that. Since I have a couple more M62 pulleys than I really need, I figured one spare was enough, and I might as well weld a bar on the other one. But I'm inherently lazy, and so far it turned out that I didn't need to do it.

[JimLev]

Crank holder.....I got this nice stainless one maybe 5 years ago from Z, his neighbor is a welder.
If you want to build a quick one just a long 2" angle iron with 2 holes to bolt it to the front of the crank flange (harmonic balance removed).
Make it long enough to reach the floor at a 45° angle and your all set.
If you want to go thru a ton of work and welding, then here's the real deal.

CrankHolder.JPG

CrankHolder_1.JPG

CrankHolder_2.JPG

[tptrsn]

That's a beauty Jim!

I made a total piece of garbage one out of some 1" angle a while ago, and it worked up until this current engine. I literally tore the holes right out of it on this one. This engine seems to demand a bit higher quality tools. Pretty funny since at this point I have no idea if I'll have any use for any of the parts in it, or even if there will be any good parts in it.

So far it's pretty rough.

[JimLev]

That's a beauty Jim!

I made a total piece of garbage one out of some 1" angle a while ago, and it worked up until this current engine. I literally tore the holes right out of it on this one.

That was the main reason I recommended 2", it's thicker and should take a beating without bending or the hole problem you had.

[dovlet]

Deamn, gents. Looks like bmw owners burn as engineers. Good tool with detailed info.

[tptrsn]

2" angle sounds like a good way to go Jim! At least for a hack like me haha..

[Schitzo]

Maybe some heat and candle wax might help?

Speaking of crank holding devices, I recently saw a video where a guy lodged a socket between the block and crankshaft counterweight as way to hold the crank from spinning while he tightened the crank pulley bolt. Only issue is he forgot to remove the socket before starting the engine. The sound the engine made upon startup was oh so painful!

[tptrsn]

Could be Robert! I'd feel a little funny about putting a lot of heat on the front of the crank due to the plastic and maybe rubber in that general area (maybe some rubber in that front sleeve that has the cam drive and oil pump drive sprockets on it?), but if I really needed to get that bolt out I would probably take a crack at it and heat that sucker up.

In this case though, getting this crank bolt out is more about my amusement, and seeing just what will do the job without using any tricky methods to make the job easier. Basically just entertaining myself as usual lol...

I would kind of like to see that video where the guy started his engine with a big ole' socket in it though!

[philly98540]

I knew you like the punishment. Do it the hard way!

[tptrsn]

You know me, I can't do stuff like everyone else. What would we learn then!?! Lol

What would be the "easy way" while we're on that topic? I kind of thought 4' of pipe would have been the easy way...

[Schitzo]

Understandable about using heat...I guess I have been watching to much of Matt. lol

I would kind of like to see that video where the guy started his engine with a big ole' socket in it though!

It's painful. He starts explaining what he did at the 30 second mark and you get to hear the carnage at 1:10...ouch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N-uJv2snbaw

[auaq]

Get a torque multiplier tool or use a 1" drive impact gun. Boom!

[tptrsn]

Understandable about using heat...I guess I have been watching to much of Matt. lol


It's painful. He starts explaining what he did at the 30 second mark and you get to hear the carnage at 1:10...ouch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N-uJv2snbaw

Can there be too much of the denmah!?! Lol Love that guy. Honestly I sat for a moment thinking about just welding something onto the end of the bolt just for the heck of it to see if it would loosen it up like it does for those broken exhaust studs. But I'm guessing that works with steel studs in an aluminum head a lot better than it would for a steel bolt inside of whatever this crank is made of that probably expands at about the same rate as steel. To work on this crank situation, ideally you'd just heat the bejeezus out of the crank snout.

Thanks for the video link Robert!!

Get a torque multiplier tool or use a 1" drive impact gun. Boom!

I have a 1" drive impact that I have used on the last three I've taken apart. It doesn't budge this one. However, I am using a reducer down to a 3/4" drive socket, which probably saps some of the effective impact, so I ordered a 1" drive socket today. We shall see!

As far as the torque multiplier, that's an interesting idea.

[tptrsn]

Damn Robert, that socket left in the engine was just the tip of the pain iceberg in that video. WHOA!!

[tptrsn]

Ok, results of my Jesus bolt experiment are in. I waited for my 1" drive socket to arrive, warmed up my air compressor, 1/2" air hose, and 1" impact for an hour or so to make sure everything would be functioning well in my frigid garage, and gave 'er hell. Nothing.

My good old compressor puts out a very reasonable amount of CFM at 90psi for my needs, but it isn't a beast as far as big pressure. I think it would be a very different story if I had a compressor that could supply some good volume at 150psi or whatever, but mine maxes out about a hundred or a little over. Anyway, 4' of pipe on the 3/4" breaker bar that was my grandpa's, with me bouncing my weight on it, did the trick and gradually started the bolt creeping out of the crank. This was a tough one.

On a mostly unrelated note, check out what this group of Canuks did with a factory parts 5.3 LS truck engine:



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And check out how simple it is to pull apart for inspection...

[philly98540]

She was tight, huh? Satisfying getting the big pipe in action!

Stock LS damn!

[geargrinder]

She was tight, huh? Satisfying getting the big pipe in action!

Where IS manny these days anyway?

[dovlet]

Did not see if it is direct injection?

[tptrsn]

Haha, for sure guys!!

Dov, that LS was not direct injection. Regular ole' fuel injection at the base of the intake runners like normal.

BTW guys, I didn't want to put away the 540 just yet so I slapped some good winter tires on it and went ripping around in the snow. Thanks to the rather aggressive LSD, it's one of the most capable snow cars I've ever driven. What a friggin' riot! Takes a little bit of the pain out of winter...

[dovlet]

So many ecu there on market. Maxxecu, link g4+ and ecumaster, they are the best. So, in comparing with ms3x they expensive and starting from 1500$. I really want to by one of them but still someone in my mind saying go with your setup. )))

By the way, is there any news? What is going on with you and your car?

[geargrinder]

So many ecu there on market. Maxxecu, link g4+ and ecumaster, they are the best.

Not sure how you came to that conclusion. My take is this isn't one of those "there's best and #2 and #3" thing anyway... Depends on what you need and what the application is, what the budget is, etc. If you're in the 'low budget for a homebrew' mode, things like MS and VEMS are kind of in a different class vs a guy who's an SCCA class racer and is paying a shop to make a super professional setup that he can have any one of several tuners work on and not worry about if they understand his setup.

Now I have no idea who's 'best', so I"m not trying to take a dig at those, I just know some platforms that race shops I know use around here... That includes some of those but definitely some other names as well or more... Also it seems to be the kind of 'evolving' industry where whats 'best' now might not be nearly on the top list in a few years... Seems like there's names that come and go and the list you'd have had 10yrs ago would be very different from who's thought of as 'best' out there now...

[tptrsn]

Yeah, I don't know how anyone could really say what is best among all of these choices. Even as much as I LOOOOVE MS3, I can't even say for sure that it is necessarily the best for me. But, I know it well, it does what I want, and since I know the effort that James Murray puts into adding code for cool features that people want included, for me it is really the only choice.

To choose one for yourself, you have to look at all of the factors related to your personal situation and whatever resources you have available for implementing the various options you might be interested in. Then you can probably choose one that is likely to work well for you.

If you don't have any local resources that can help you with any of them, then you kind of have to look at the internet assistance that's available. There is a lot of help available for all of the MS3 variants on the MSExtra.com MS3 forum, but to get good help there you need to be prepared to always include your latest tune file (.msq) that you are using when the problem occurs, a datalog of the problem happening, AND a stated timecode in the datalog of where people need to look for the problem. Some people just don't like to go to all of that effort to get help, so for them MS3 might not be the best option.

But in that case I am not really sure what would be best. For any standalone ECU you either need to be doing a whole bunch of "helping yourself" or you need to have a good professional who you pay to help you (or if you're lucky enough to have one of your local car buddies who is an expert at one of them). So there you go, I'm absolutely no help!

As far as what I've been doing with my car, the weather has been below freezing here quite a lot, so I am mainly working on getting my cold start tune really dialed in with E85. At this point it's quite impressive. I have snow tires on the car at the moment though, so I can't really put any power to the ground. Since I want to keep the tread on the snow tires nice and deep, I can't really make much boost -- The snow tires just light up and spin like crazy..

[tptrsn]

Stock 4.4 bottom end and 4.0 ported heads and cams are almoust stock. Exhaust manifolds hand made by me and 3.5 to to end. That video exhaust is still 3.5" but it was always popping off so i made 2x 3 and that was huge difference.
https://www.google.fi/search?q=bmw+5...hrome&ie=UTF-8

I really want to hear this or see this, but the link isn't sending me to anything related to your car!

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention, I dropped off a good M62 block at the sprint car shop yesterday to get blasted in the parts cleaner cabinet and see what the bore surfaces end up looking like. They were nearly perfect already, other than a little shadow in one area of cylinder #5 (IIRC). Before I dropped off the block, I followed the lead of 516SC and ported out the coolant passage for cylinders 5-8 to somewhat equalize coolant flow between it and the other bank:

CoolantPassagesRearView.jpg

CoolantPassagesRearView2.jpg

CoolantPassagesFrontView.jpg

CoolantPassagesFrontView2.jpg

CoolantPassagesFrontView3.jpg