e60 545i instrument cluster issue

[Allan545i]

Hey, im new here and i registered to ask you guys about my problem.
I bought an e60 545i with the instrument cluster not working. When i disconnect my battery and connect it back sometimes the cluster will work just fine (except the fuel gauge) and somtimes the screen on the cluster will only work and the needles wont move. Usually when my cluster is not working my screen is orange and hard to read the amber letters on the screen.(the screen is used to be black with amber letters) And when i leave my door open to clean the car inside for few minutes it drains my battery so it will be hard for it to start and when it has low battery voltage (hard starting) the cluster will always work just fine. But my dealer wants to sell me a new cluster that costs 2.464,14 usd. + coding because they say its bad and i need new uncoded cluster. They tried to recode the cluster to the car and the only thing they did was they destroyed my idrive and now my idrive screen wont work and i cant use it but i still can use the radio. Has anyone here had the same issue or similar? or is someone here that knows what i need to do or can do before buying another new instrument cluster?

[cmyachtie]

When I bought my 545 several years ago, had some very strange cluster behaviour as well, read about it. Here:
http://5series.net/forums/e60-discus...riving-128052/
also this
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-at-cold-temps

and there are several related threads as well, long story short, find a dealer with a knowledgeable software technician and have them reprogram whole car. Likely you will not need a new cluster, I did not despite they insisted initially the same solution for me but I had tinkered with it for months and already tried to replace my cluster which had the same trouble.
you dont' know what was done to the cr before you ought is I assume no you may need a new battery as well.
also read your faultcodes and find out what you got there to point in the right direction of fixing this.Actually since you had it at the dealer ask them for a report! And go from there.
also take a reading of your charging voltage while car is running and see if it spikes or seems regulated properly.
hope this helps you.
good luck let us know how you make out with this problem

[Allan545i]

Hey thank you for your response, i tried last weekend another used same size battery (i know i have to program the battery to the car but i didn't) and my alternator looks brand new. The car is charging 14.9 volts at idle. Can it be overcharging the battery? I tried like someone mentioned in your thread to take the cluster out of the car and lock the car for 20 minutes. it made no changes. just my cluster screen goes back to normal like when i disconnect and connect my battery negative cable. And i forgot to mention that i have now had for some weeks red airbag light and red seatbelt light on my cluster. Can that be an expensive repair?

[Allan545i]

I think my next step is to put the car on my lift and check the battery cables under the car and/ or take the car to someone good software technican (i may have one) and let him reprogram the whole car with new battery? If that does not fix my problem i will buy new cluster. But i think they mentioned my cluster Is only getting 7 volts. Then why did they state my cluster is the problem??

[cmyachtie]

I think my next step is to put the car on my lift and check the battery cables under the car and/ or take the car to someone good software technican (i may have one) and let him reprogram the whole car with new battery? If that does not fix my problem i will buy new cluster. But i think they mentioned my cluster Is only getting 7 volts. Then why did they state my cluster is the problem??

Most dealer unfortunately are not interested in repairs just selling and installing new parts....

do you have a regular flooded or an AGM battery, do,you know?
if it's the latter your charging voltage is killing your battery. AGM batteries should NEVER get any higher voltage than 14.5.

do you know how to read your FA or VO on your car with NCSEXPER.?? If so make sure it is coded for AGM in your CAS module

[Allan545i]

I have changed the battery out for regular bosch battery and have bought a new cluster that is now coded for my car but i dont wanna have the new cluster connected becouse the car has already burnt out 3 clusters from previous owner. I am getting instrument cluster under voltage code. What can be causing that?

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Should i replace mpm module or alternator or ibs to get rid of the under voltage to the cluster?

[cmyachtie]

I have changed the battery out for regular bosch battery and have bought a new cluster that is now coded for my car but i dont wanna have the new cluster connected becouse the car has already burnt out 3 clusters from previous owner. I am getting instrument cluster under voltage code. What can be causing that?

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Should i replace mpm module or alternator or ibs to get rid of the under voltage to the cluster?

What faultcodes are you getting?
that would help in diagnosis instead of throwing new parts at it randomly......

[Allan545i]

I dont remember, i will let him read the codes again. I measured the voltage to the cluster and one wire had 4 volts that dropped down do zero (0,01v) and other wires had voltages from 0.70 to 0.50 and rest had 0.00. Isnt it telling me the wires are shorted? Could it be door loom or trunk loom?

[cmyachtie]

I dont remember, i will let him read the codes again. I measured the voltage to the cluster and one wire had 4 volts that dropped down do zero (0,01v) and other wires had voltages from 0.70 to 0.50 and rest had 0.00. Isnt it telling me the wires are shorted? Could it be door loom or trunk loom?

I don't remember the correct voltages but suggest you get hold of some wiring diagram I do know that a lot of the modules work ok at 4 volt (Think that maybe the bus signal wire).

[Allan545i]

I don't remember the correct voltages but suggest you get hold of some wiring diagram I do know that a lot of the modules work ok at 4 volt (Think that maybe the bus signal wire).

i measured the voltage to the cluster and it has ground on pin 18 and 12v on pin 9 but on pin 7 i have 4.6v and on pin 6 i have 0.40v and yes you are right pin 6 and 7 are supposed to be a canbus system that should be 2.3 volts.

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my friend did something wrong when he measured the volts first so the volt readings are not right from 03-14-2017

[Allan545i]

931d is the fault code

[cmyachtie]

Tough to know for sure what the root cause would be here as not knowing all,history of the car and just one code, is that all you got just the 931d? And did this code come back after clearing it?
these cars get lots of electrical and or software glitches and unless the code keeps coming back it means nothing.

if so then there is likely an issue wlith your electrical supply somewhere, likely alternator,(voltage regulator), battery etc.

[Allan545i]

There are a lot of other codes coming but this one is the code that is behind the instrument cluster problem 931d kombi: undervoltage or overvoltage

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those are the others A0B2 cas supply, terminal 30E/30L.
27F2 Dme plausibility, tank fill level.
27A0 Dme fan electronic box
2772 dme tank venting valve output stage
2774 dme engine switch off time, plausibility
27EE dme: no message from instrument panel, dme receiver, instrument panel transmitter
279b dme: thermostat stuck
284f dme: speedometer in instrument panel faulty
4f81 egs: ratio monitoring clutch a
4f84 Egs: ratio monitoring clutch d
4f97 Egs: ratio monitoring clutch b-d
4f82 egs: ratio monitoring clutch b
9c78 ihka: washer nozzle heating
E71b message error (ambient temerature,0x2CA). Receiver integrated automatic heating/ air conditioning system, transmitter indtrument panel
E715 message error (kilometre reading, 0x330).Receiver integrated automatic heating/ air conditioning system, transmitter indtrument panel
A418 Hall sensor, power window motor, rear right.
A419Hall sensor, power window rear right.
A448 hall sensor, power window motor rear left
931d kombi: undervoltage or overvoltage
931b kombu: outside temperatur sensor
9323 Lm: auxilary direction indicator, left, faulty.
D35e dsc: no message (outside temperature 310)
D36e dsc: no message (kilometre reading 330)
E71b ihka: no message (outside temerature,2ca)
FFFF cansys: communication fault
5f49 dsc: interface instrument cluster
5f2f dsc: interface transmission control
D35E message, (temerature,0x31 0) missing receiver dsc, transmitter kombi
D360 message (kilometer reading. 0x330) missing. Receiver dsc transmitter KOMBI

[Allan545i]

I do suspect mpm module in the cluster and I drive screen issue but all those codes mean that there must be a one thing that causes all of them like alternator or battery but my battery is new and alternator is also new. I am buying new mpm to test if the voltages changes to the cluster and display. Because they should be getting 2.3 volts on two vires (which I would call micro power)? But are getting 4.6 and 0.40. These are the voltages that I also read out of the micro power module.

[Allan545i]

should i measure the bus voltage using the black can wire as a negative and the yellow as a positive? if i do so the voltage i read are 4,20 volts. Or should i just put the black one on my mm to ground and use the red one to measure both can wires like i have been doing? when i do so i have 4,6 volts on the yellow one and 0,44v on the black one. is something wrong with those voltage readings on my canbus? i have been told that they should just be total of 5v and when there is communication they should never have the same reading. but when there is no communication should they be both 2,5v? (im sorry for my bad english)

[Allan545i]

and does anybody know why my original wire to the cluster (pin 9, red wire with blue line) measures 0v? there was a shop who ran just a 12v red wire to that pin from a fuse in the glove box. does anybody know from what module the original wire comes?