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Thread: 4x4, Tire Pressure, Brake, ABS lights are on.

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    4x4, Tire Pressure, Brake, ABS lights are on.

    Experiencing possible multiple issues with an 06 X3 3.0.

    A few weeks ago, I got the 4 amigos, 4x4, Tire Pressure, Brake, ABS. They came on all at once with a beep. Around the same time, the car was hesitating on heavy acceleration (like entering the highway). I would sometimes feel the ABS try to engage. The lights would be off when I did a cold start, but come back on after a a few stops. The ABS sensation would go away. Recently, however, all the lights stay on all the time and there is no more ABS sensation.

    I did a few searches on various sites and found several causes to this type of issue.
    - Alternator / Battery voltage
    - Steering Position Sensor
    - Wheel Speed Sensors
    - Plastic Gear in the transfer case

    I also got several codes even more recently.
    -P0171, P0147 (System too lean)
    -P0507 (IDLE Air control system RPM speed higher than expected)

    I am thinking and treating these two issues separately.


    Regarding the first issue:
    Alternator Battery - I logged my last few trips and I am averaging 13.9V at the battery (not alternator output). The voltage floats between 14.00V and 13.7V. I think that's pretty average.

    Steering Position Sensor - It was suggested to do a few steers lock to lock. This was done and in the earlier days, it seemed to have a positive effect. But it does not any longer. The steering fluid did seem kind of brownish. I emptied the the reservoir and topped it off with new fluid. I will do a full change this weekend. Also pull the sensor and clean it.

    Wheel speed sensors - I have read a lengthy article about pulling the ABS cable and testing pins for resistance. I don't want to part-hunt with these at $130 each, so I will pull them and clean them up.

    Plastic Gear in transfer case - The common denominator with this root cause was a grinding sound under the car when shutting down the issue. I don't get this sound, so I will defer for now.



    Code issues.
    I had a similar problem with the P0171 and P0174 codes. My intake hose had failed and it was replaced. I will take another look to see if this one has broken too.

    P0507 - I don't ever recall having this issue. Maybe the ICV is bad.


    Performance wise, since the fault codes popped up, I am experiencing issues with throttle response. It sometimes takes 2-3 seconds to respond to an acceleration.



    If anyone has had this issue, please speak up. Or if you see something wrong with my data. I'm not yet sure how to go about cleaning the wheel sensors.... Maybe some MAF cleaner, but I imagine they are pretty filthy. Not sure if I should hit them with brake cleaner.


    I'll update after the weekend.
    Last edited by blumpie; 11-11-2016 at 06:40 PM.

  2. #2
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    I would check the transfer case plastic gear that it's in the actuator

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by jclausen View Post
    I would check the transfer case plastic gear that it's in the actuator
    Out of the 4, I think that's the least plausible at this time. The common factors for that issue are a grinding noise from the transfer case when turning off the ignition, and no tire pressure warning.

    I'm going to pass on hunting that one until we start getting into serious part spending mode.

  4. #4
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    Update: pulled the ICV and cleaned it. It didn't seem all that bad, but it was a bit springer after the clean up.

    The car started up and ran a bit rough on the idle. I took a ride to get some gas and a car wash and she seemed a bit peppier. Really didn't get a chance to get her real warm yet.

    I cleared the codes and nothing popped up yet. But I was getting P0507 almost immediately before.

    That job took long enough, so I didn't get to the brakes. I did reset the ABC cable and checked the leads. It looks very clean. Fluid is also clean and level.

  5. #5
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    Still getting P0171 and P0174 and a rough idle.

    After a few scan logs, I noticed my MAF reads 0.0 with an occasional 0.1. I think I know what the problem is.
    Last edited by blumpie; 11-21-2016 at 04:10 PM.

  6. #6
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    jclausen has it right. Just changed out my transfer case actuator gear at 107K. Had the "Triad of Death" going on for about a month. Ordered the MTC part from Amazon, and did the job in about three hours (you need a lift to do this properly). Or...go down to your local mechanic with the part. It's still so much cheaper than the Bimmer shop. The actuator, by the way, looks amazingly like a '80's era GM window regulator

  7. #7
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    +1 I bought the $50 aluminum replacement and immediately replaced it, it's on Amazon. At 105k, the parallels between my case and yours are striking. I found the ride afterwards leaps and bounds better than prior. I still have a bit of humming here and there at low speeds but I am beginning to blame my tires rather than anything else. I will replace all tires for the winter and my humming will go away, I am pretty confident in that.

  8. #8
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    You guys have a link to the amazon part?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by blumpie View Post
    You guys have a link to the amazon part?
    https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_s...=1MOD6Z0Y218UO

    Actually, on the first repair, you can re-use the original gear. The gear does not turn full circle within the actuator and only a portion of the gear is actually used. You can remove it and turn it 180 degrees and you should be good for another 80,000 plus miles. I rotated mine after I got the triad at around 80,000 and I've now got 162,000 and still going good.
    Current Garage:
    91 e34 M5 - spoiled & demanding 27 y/o -glanzshwarz
    91 850i/6 -another spoiled & demanding 27 y/o- schwarz-gone but never forgotten
    06 325i - undeserving, spoiled & demanding 27 y/o daughter's DD-hellrot
    03 MINI Cooper S JCW -spoiled & demanding, yet deserving wife's DD - Chili/Panther
    05 X3 3.0i -family workhorse - diamond schwarz
    12 X5 3.5d - torque monster - space gray metallic
    86 GMC Cabellero - Old Faithful 32 y/o DD BMW Support Vehicle
    08 Cub Cadet 19HP 46" hydrostatic- yard vehicle
    88 Schwinn Sierra - 1WD Off Road Vehicle
    e31 & OHC BMW CCA #385540

  10. #10
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    Thanks! ^^^^

    I'm using a "car chip" for logging, but I don't think it monitors ABS (ASC/DSC) codes. I notice I am getting an error (beeping from the car chip) on sharp left turns, usually at slow speed in car parks or the neighborhood when I am turning almost locked to the left. However, I am not seeing any data in the car chip. I am thinking of chasing down this first. It could be the steering position sensor.

    I am looking for some logging software for my mac book, but I am only seeing support for the ECU. If anyone has a lead on good MAC software to read ASC/DSC please sound off. There is one that reads CAN bus. Im don't know much about CAN, but I think thats the main information network and if I can capture that data, maybe I can get the error coeds.

  11. #11
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    Gaining on the p0171 issue and I think it's the crankcase ventilator. New parts on order.

    I think I'm going to flip that servo gear tomorrow for a cheap fix.

  12. #12
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    What a pain in the scrotum. I've been at it for 2 hours trying to get the transfer case support off. The 18mm bolt (rare size) is stuck solid. It's starting to round off. PB blaster and heat have had no effect. I think the only way to do it is get an impact socket on there and that means dropping the exhaust. I don't have the parts to do that so I may have to scrap this job for the weekend.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by blumpie View Post
    What a pain in the scrotum. I've been at it for 2 hours trying to get the transfer case support off. The 18mm bolt (rare size) is stuck solid. It's starting to round off. PB blaster and heat have had no effect. I think the only way to do it is get an impact socket on there and that means dropping the exhaust. I don't have the parts to do that so I may have to scrap this job for the weekend.
    Sorry to hear about your problem. I don't recall having any problems getting the support loose on mine. I see that you are from IL...has this vehicle been subjected to winter salt? If so, that's probably what has caused the difficulty. Don't give up.
    Current Garage:
    91 e34 M5 - spoiled & demanding 27 y/o -glanzshwarz
    91 850i/6 -another spoiled & demanding 27 y/o- schwarz-gone but never forgotten
    06 325i - undeserving, spoiled & demanding 27 y/o daughter's DD-hellrot
    03 MINI Cooper S JCW -spoiled & demanding, yet deserving wife's DD - Chili/Panther
    05 X3 3.0i -family workhorse - diamond schwarz
    12 X5 3.5d - torque monster - space gray metallic
    86 GMC Cabellero - Old Faithful 32 y/o DD BMW Support Vehicle
    08 Cub Cadet 19HP 46" hydrostatic- yard vehicle
    88 Schwinn Sierra - 1WD Off Road Vehicle
    e31 & OHC BMW CCA #385540

  14. #14
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    *** UPDATE ***

    I supported the the transfer case with a jack and on my next try I tried lowering the jack and dropping the transfer case just enough to get an impact socket on there. I have a snap-on double hammer impact wrench and it still wouldn't break loose.... but I only have 120lbs of air, so..... Repeated PB blaster and heat had no effect. I didn't want to heat it too much and ruin the rubber bushing.

    I live in Houston now and I still have issues from salt. So that combined with 120000 miles and the bolt and mount being two different metals sure make a difference.

    I just left the mount there and worked around it. With the transfer case in a lower position, it was much easier getting tools and my fat hands in there to remove the servo.

    Once I got the motor out, I looked inside the the gear looks OK. I rotated it 180 degrees and put it back. It was all back together in 20 minutes.

    I started the car and the lights are still there... took it for a run and they are still there. Is there a way to clear them????

    Next step is to pull the wheel speed sensors and clean them. I don't think there is a way to test the steering sensor without replacing it....

    Moving on to the P0171 issue.... I received my CCV kit in the mail, so that will be the next PITA project.

  15. #15
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    *** UPDATE ***

    Don't order the CCV kit from Amazon, you will get the wrong one. I ended up going to the dealership and getting genuine parts for not much more.

    Good news, it seemed to be the fix. No codes and all systems ready except O2 heater... I'll chase that one down later.

    If you have an 80k + vehicle and are having one of these issues, it would save a lot of time to get all the parts and replace them in one go.

    I removed and cleaned all the wheel speed sensors and I have no improvement on the ABC lights. I'm thinking the steering position sensor. Looking into that next, but it may be with the spend to take it in to scan the ABC system.

  16. #16
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    I too have a carchip but for my X3 but "upgraded" to a BMW specific scanner that I found on eBay. It was cheap, and the poor English on the display gives me a clue as to why, but the scanner is able to see and clear engine, drivetrain and two other systems (body and diesel maybe?). My carchip did not, as it is engine only and would never clear certain BMW engine fault codes. Mine is by "Creator", but there may be better. eBay search this: C310 OBDII Multi System Scan Engine Fault Code Reader Diagnostic Tool For BMW

  17. #17
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    yes, buy yourself a c110 or c310, it reads more advanced codes. its only about 40-50.

  18. #18
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    Thanks. I will look into that.

    I was chasing down a few other issues, and currently, the alternator is starting to make some noise....

    I had a thought that perhaps my servo motor is not working. Is there a way to hook up a 12V and make it spin? Im thinking not as it is probably some kind of step motor.

  19. #19
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    I did buy C310, but I am unclear what to look for. I get some cryptic error codes that I'm having trouble tracking down:

    1E,81,55,C4
    1E,81,55,C8
    1E,81,55,C9
    54C6 Oil Wear
    They come right back after resetting.



    About the only thing I can determine is the Oil Wear code means my transmission oil is dirty.

    I was able to determine my 2 rear wheel speed sensors were not working by viewing the live data. I have since replaced them and things are running better.... The slight hesitation I had on hard acceleration has dissipated. However, the error lights persist. are there any resets I need to do? Any other systems to check?

  20. #20
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    If you go to the z3 forum here there is a thread for a diagnostic tool INPA. Get a cheap laptop and download the software. There are also links to get the USB to OBD2 adapters cable.

  21. #21
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    4x4, Tire Pressure, Brake, ABS lights are on.

    Had this issue and turned out to be reluctor rings. Check out my little guide for info to replace them. If you just stick new speed sensors in, they may well break too unless you do the rings.

    Here it is
    http://xdrivers.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=15010.0


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by bubbaspaarx; 08-17-2017 at 06:05 PM.

  22. #22
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    anyone having this issue check out my step-by-step guide to replacing the gear in the actuator motor, save yourself a thousand bucks. I used the carbon fiber reinforced gear, resolved the issue for me.



    link: https://youtu.be/UR7Vv5SQvDc

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