Bringing a '98 Cosmos Schwarz M3/4/5 back to life

[Musicisair]

I just purchased my second e36 after owning a black '97 328 for 11 years: a 1998 Cosmos Schwarz 5 speed M3 sedan with 117,000 miles.

I know I like reading through these build threads, and others seem to too, so I'm planning on chronicling all work here.

I've had the car for a few months now (since June 24 2016) and have already done some work, so the first few posts will be historical.

Color: COSMOSSCHWARZ METALLIC (303)
Upholstery: TEILLEDER W.N./GRAU (N5TT)
Production date: 1997-09-16

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[Musicisair]

July 2nd, first family photo (with a 2006 530xi):
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June 24 - August 17
First order of business was to fix some easy cosmetic issues: missing glovebox button ($4.95), loose side molding (~$3.00), missing tools from the toolset (my other e36 may have made some sacrifices for the greater good on this one) ($2.00 - bought the screwdriver), and new (used) windshield wiper arm (~$7.00).

A sad state:
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If you actually want after pictures of these let me know.


I also sanded and painted the front lip. I still need to touch up the bumper and fix that fog light ($5.87 for bumper paint).

Before:


After:


I also installed used rear speakers ($20), two new Bosch 13884 O2 sensors ($162.55), new Hamburg Tech driver's side front door lock actuator ($48.00 - don't buy this brand... it is terrible), OE air filter ($20.98), and OE fuel filter ($44.05).

[Musicisair]

Front Brake Calipers seized so I bought new front OE brake hoses ($103.36), a OE front caliper rebuild kit ($52.80), and bleed the brakes and clutch ($36.36). Tools: I had to buy a caliper piston compressor tool ($9.95), pressure brake bleeder ($27.95), a 7mm wrench ($4.99), a 5 Pc Metric Double-End Flare Nut Wrench Set ($12.99), a rubber mallet ($5.38), and PB Blaster ($5.59).

I also changed my rear diff fluid with RedLine 75w140 ($34.98) and installed new OE Diff Plugs ($12.38). Tools: 14mm Short Hex L-Wrench ($6.06).

Picked up a ZHP shift knob ($82.49) as well! It's weird how much of a difference in feel this makes over stock. Maybe my arms are too long but shifting felt cramped before this knob.
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[Musicisair]

While changing my diff fluid I noticed that my passenger's side rear lower control arm (AKA wishbone) was installed upside down! (http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...these-pictures)

I couldn't loosen the bolt from the ball socket on the control arm myself so I had to take it to my mechanic. He couldn't get it off either as it had seized to the ball joint itself. He ended up having to cut it off.

In the process of putting the new ball join in, it tore (I didn't have to pay for it). So I ordered a pair of OE lower control arm ball joints ($107.60), two new OE bolts ($17.08), and one OE eccentric washer ($5.18). Labor: $160.

To make matters worse, while installing the driver's side ball joint, he noticed the lower control arm has previously been slammed against something (curb, maybe?) and was bent beyond repair. So two new Lemforder rear lower control arms ($86.26) are waiting to be installed now, as well as one new OE control arm cover ($7.44).

Bye bye bolt head!
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On a much more positive note: I installed a new center slat in my center vent! I purchased a new older-style center vent on ECS for $38.13 (wouldn't work in my car), pulled the center slat out of it for my car, and resold it for $50 (minus fees and shipping) (Cost: -$3.30).
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[Musicisair]

I finally got around to waxing the car for the first time. I still need to apply some Dr Color Chip and do a full paint correction, so for now I just used some old Meguiars's NXT Wax I had laying around and some Back To Black for the trim -- nothing fancy, I then finished it off with Mothers 08216 California Gold Instant Detailer.

Artsy:
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Shiny:
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Purdy:
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[Musicisair]

I've accumulated some parts and plan on garaging the car for a week or two so I can finally get everything installed.

Coming soon:

Suspension:
Two new OE rear lower spring pads ($17.18)
Two new OE rear upper spring pads ($17.18)
Brakes:
Akebono Rear Euro Ceramic Brake Pads ($56.12)
OE Anti-Squal Brake Pad Paste ($1.30)
Transmission (the car has a chattery lightweight flywheel and i'm in Florida which is why I've chosen these fluids):
Transmission plugs ($13.36)
Redline 75W-140NS ($19.52)
Redline Mt-90 75w90 ($16.95)
Misc:
OE Cabin Filter ($32.46)
OE "Engine and Cold" Cleaner ($4.97)
VANOS Rebuild:
OE Valve Cover Gasket Set ($44.35)
Valve Cover Seal Washers ($11.85)
Gasket Ring ($6.43)
Hose Clamps ($7.55)
VANOS O Ring ($1.90)
VANOS Oil Feed Line ($49.88)
Fan Shroud Rivets ($1.98)
Sealing Rings ($2.50)
RTV Sealant ($4.19)
More Rivets ($.28)
Besian VANOS Seals Repair Kit ($30.00)
Besian VANOS Rattle Repair Kit ($30.00)
Besian Vise Jaw Liners ($15.00)
Besian 188mm Modified Socket 1/2" Drive ($5.00)
Olympia Tool 38-604 4-Inch Bench Vise ($20.16)
EWK Tool Vanos Valve Camshaft Alignment Timing Locking Engine Tool ($73.99)
Engine:
Oil Filter Housing Gasket ($5.86)
BMW TwinPower Turbo 5W-30 Engine Oil - 7 Liters, OE Plug, Mann Filter, Mann Washers, Mann O-Rings: $63.95
NGK (3199) BKR6EQUP Spark Plugs: ($38.12)
Spark Plug Boot Protector ($1.39)
Cooling:
OE Coolant ($22.79)
Distilled Water ($2.00)
Throttle Body Coolant Hose - Head to Throttle Body ($23.76)
Throttle Body Coolant Hose - Heater Return to Throttle Body ($23.76)

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Total restoration and maintenance costs to date: $1,751.10
Current Mileage: 119659

[Auto Parts Guy]

Nice progress! Looks like a pretty good foundation to restore.

[Musicisair]

Old and busted OE rear lower control vs new Lemförder. The Lemförders aren't exactly the same. The OE control arms have notches that seem like they help hold the plastic covers in place.

Getting the inner bolt out is a PITA (I wasn't surprised) since the diff is a bit heavy and you don't have much room for maneuvering. One side was already missing its eccentric washer, so I had one ready, but I discovered that the other side's washer was damaged so i'm going to wait until I can get a new one before finishing the install.

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I've replaced the spring pads because they're cheap and I needed to remove the adjustable springs the PO installed anyway. The bent control arm was causing problems with ride height and the spring's adjustments were off by several inches; completely removing them to make the adjustment was far easier than trying to do it while they were still compressed.

Old vs new:
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I also drained the oil and for the heck of it dumped an extra bottle of synthetic oil into the oil filter housing to flush a little more of that old oil out. I left the oil drain plug out to try to get as much out as possible.

While prepping the tools for the VANOS job I discovered I'm missing some wrenches so I've got to pick up a couple of things before starting. In the meantime I'll be installing the new rear brake pads.

[BAM3]

Subscribed to see another black 98 M3/4/5 brought back!

[Musicisair]

Well, I won't buy Akebono rear Euro ceramic brake pads (https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2162655/) again. These pads are way too thick! I ended up accidentally shaving same material off the outer pad on one side trying to get it on.
I then broke my brand new Schwaben cliper piston compressor tool by attempting to push the other side's caliper piston in a bit more than it would go. On this side I put the outer pad on the caliper carrier first then used a rubber mallet to hammer the caliper on over it (removing paint and material from the backing plate of the outer pad in the process).

Hopefully the fitment isn't too tight that I burn them up -- or worse. If these pads are actually drivable I'll be keeping a close eye on them for a while.

I hate to write off such a highly reviewed brake pad, but I've changed pads numerous times on my 97' 328i and never had a problem like this.

I actually didn't use the OEM brake pad paste I bought, as the Akebono installation instructions state that the use of any paste other then their own (which they provided) voids the warranty.

Old vs New pads
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On another note.
I'm not sure why I took this next picture, but when I saw it, the mess hanging down really bothered me. Is this mess of wires/cables normal (driver's side front)?

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On another note. How do you know where to set the height of the coilovers (not the springs), especially in the rear?

[brokeazz]

the brake pads sensor and wheel speed sensor is suppose to wrap from the front, around left of the shock, then back right. kinda hard to explain, but the bolt in the middle there's suppose to be a black plastic clip that holds the lines.
you have to play around with the adjustments to how high or low you want your car to be

[Musicisair]

the brake pads sensor and wheel speed sensor is suppose to wrap from the front, around left of the shock, then back right. kinda hard to explain, but the bolt in the middle there's suppose to be a black plastic clip that holds the lines.
you have to play around with the adjustments to how high or low you want your car to be

Thanks. I can see how adjusting the fronts would directly change the ride height, but the rears don't seem like they would really effect the ride height, since they are independent of the adjustable springs. Or is it just a bit of both that need to be adjusted to change ride height?

[brokeazz]

do u have the adjustable spring perch in the rear? the spring should be sitting on it

[Musicisair]

do u have the adjustable spring perch in the rear? the spring should be sitting on it

Yes. (It's actually installed the other way around with the adjustable spring perch on top, which, from what I can tell, shouldn't matter).

[brokeazz]

if u have the wrenches and enough room, you can spin the collars down and that should raise it up. if not, you need to take the spring out then adjust. just make sure both sides are even.

[Musicisair]

if u have the wrenches and enough room, you can spin the collars down and that should raise it up. if not, you need to take the spring out then adjust. just make sure both sides are even.

I actually have everything out right now, so adjusting the springs isn't a problem. I'm just wondering about the rear adjustable height shocks themselves.

Here is a picture of the crappy coilovers the PO installed on my car: http://www.buyautoparts.com/data/all...=220&width=400 You can see that the rear shocks have a nut on them that allows you to adjust how tall the shock is. I'd like to figure out where to set that. Does that make sense?

[brokeazz]

whoa, never seen those before. sorry man, can't help you there. try getting a hold of the them and see if they can send you some instructions. good luck

[notMpowered]

Adjusting the shock travel will not affect height. It just allows the shock travel to adjust to best match the ride height. Where you should set that is dependant on where you set your springs.

[Musicisair]

Adjusting the shock travel will not affect height. It just allows the shock travel to adjust to best match the ride height. Where you should set that is dependant on where you set your springs.

Ah, I see. Is there a trick for knowing where to set the shock travel?

[Musicisair]

Finished up the transmission and oil fluid change. My oil pump decided to call it quits, so I had to buy a new one ($10.64).

I picked up some more tools to do the VANOS job: 19MM wrench ($3.70), 24MM wrench ($5.60), 32 MM wrench ($14.09), 3/8 inch drive 10mm socket ($4.21), 1/2 inch drive 19mm socket ($5.27), and a 1/2 inch drive 22mm socket ($5.27).

I also picked up some nuts for the exhaust hanger since it was missing 3 of them ($5.66) as well as a new eccentric washer for the rear lower control arm ($13.14)! I figured having an extra quart of oil couldn't hurt to I grabber one more bottle ($8.76).

Total restoration and maintenance costs to date: $1,827.44
Current Mileage: 119,659

[tommycat1313]

Can we all agree Cosmos Schwarz is the proper M3 color?

[yurisuika]

Hell yeah! Cosmos looks very nice on the sedan.

[Musicisair]

Absolutely. I love this color!

I still haven't started the VANOS job, as I helped a friend with a brake job on his car this weekend (did you know that a Volvo S50's rear caliper piston must be rotated in order to retract?).

I did pick up and install some other misc parts that were either missing or broken: 2x Valve Cover Beauty Cap ($6.49), Gas Cap ($14.50), 3x Copper Exhaust Nut (the others I picked up didn't fit -- real OEM is confusing) ($1.08), Rear Pad Wear Sensor Bracket ($3.74), 2x Front Pad Wear Sensor Bracket (thanks to brokeazz for pointing out mine was missing) ($1.41), 1x ///M3 Wheel Emblem ($8.22).

I also cleaned and hand polished 3 of my 5 wheels while my friend was doing the dirty work for his brake job. I only got to 3 of them because I had to put 1 back on the car so we could take one of the jack stands out, and I forgot about the spare. Also: check your spare to see if it is in better condition than your other wheels... mine was so I'm doing a swap.

As a motivation for finally fixing the VANOS issue, I'm considering getting brand new OEM seat leather up front, new OEM 3-spoke steering wheel+airbag+slipring, OEM armrest leather, and OEM floor mats.

Total restoration and maintenance costs to date: $1,862.88
Current Mileage: 119,659

[Musicisair]

Got some more goodies! I'll update with details later!

[Musicisair]

I think it's later now. I've done a bit since December.

I did the VANOS job twice, the first time I think I installed it off a tooth and was still getting a VANOS code. Unfortunately I think I'll need to open it up again because I'm pretty sure the exhaust camshaft is off - something I noticed after reviewing a bunch of pictures I took during the install (though I'm not getting an error codes).

I also did a cooling system overhaul: all hoses replaced (there are so many!), stewart pump, thermostat, aluminum housing, new coolant expansion tank, coolant level sensor, euro fan, fan clutch, etc. The only thing I didn't replace was the radiator. Also replaced plastic water pump pulley with aluminum, AC and alternator tensioner roller, alternator pulley, belts, both belt tensioners, etc.

I also got new Michelin Pilot Sport 3s, new rear bumper diffuser, and tons of tools. And tons more stuff (some of it not yet installed, like a new driver's side lower seat foam).

I'm maintaining a list of things I've purchased for the car here: https://docs.google.com/a/davidmurdo...it?usp=sharing

You might noticed I paid $22.92 for an URO radiator hose... well, I really needed it (the other hose got lost in delivery and I didn't notice) and there was only one place in town that had one and they knew I was desperate.

Total restoration and maintenance costs to date: $5,302.59
Current Mileage: 121,511
Days: 325