1995 325IS Still Running Rich

[DannyBoy909]

No problem guy

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[FiberFast]

Thanks for your support. I ordered a new maf, coils and crank sensor from bavauto. I am thinking about replacing the cam sensor as well. I put a bottle of red line fuel cleaner through it. I am hoping the coils maf sensors and cat do the trick. Going to start looking for a 2.8l to throw in cause damn they cheap. I have spent like $1500 on parts and I can find a low mile m52b28 for less than $1000 at least all this obd1 shit will fit on the 2.8l though. I got temp registration so at least I'm driving it, I just need to get it to smog now. New symptoms include hard starts (used to fire up immediately) now takes a few 3/5 turns to start. A little bit of stumble here and there. Also noticed a rasp at higher rpm which could possibly be an exhaust leak. Car is impressively fast after removing the a.c. and everything behind the front seats.

[spyderg0d]

Exhaust leak you say... Lol

[FiberFast]

Yea, I think there is a leak... Not sure if that's what has been causing my rich condition or not but it sounds great lol...

[DannyBoy909]

Maybe it's not for me on say but this guy is full of shit. Lol

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[spyderg0d]

On what?

[DannyBoy909]

Everything!!!

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[DannyBoy909]

OK

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[DannyBoy909]

Define running rich. My mind s playing tricks on me.

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[DannyBoy909]

Lol

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[spyderg0d]

Ya. I guess smoke Isn't the best indicator of a rich condition. Specially with the weather.

[FiberFast]

Full of shit? I am asking for help fixing my car and that makes me full of shit.

Regardless, took off the intake manifold replaced the fuel pressure regulator, the vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator was completely deteriorated, replaced that too. I also replaced the crank position sensor and cam position sensor. Got it all back together although I still can't find one of the nuts for the airbox going to get a replacement tomorrow.
Now the car does not smell like it's running rich and is running quite smoothly but I am getting cel 1221 now. I just replaced the o2 censor with a bosch unit.
So far,
New fan clutch
New coils bavarian
New maf bosch
New o2 bosch
New cam sensor bosch
New crank sensor bosch
New fuel filter Mann
New plugs nkg platinum oems
New fuel pressure regulator bosch
New head temp sensor bosch
New air filter k&n
New intake manifold gasket
New vacuum hoses
New "pcv" plastic pieces manifold and valve cover.
Cleaned the icv.

Still waiting for my cat ordered it from hottexhaust.com a month ago.

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Also used some chemtool (don't get that shit in your eyes like I did) to clean the injectors, manifold, and intake ports which I then vacuumed out. When I took the can position sensor out it apeared to have some fine metal buildup on it. The crank position sensor was completely coated with thick oil buildup.
Smoke is coming and going, I'm going to try and smog it tomorrow and see what happends. On a different note, the car has been developing a shimmy when turning right so I am going to install some mehyle controll arms. Also getting some vibration while accelerating so I am going to replace the guibo and axle bearing/bushing when I do the cat.
Dr. Vanos in the near future as well. I am going to start looking for a donor I think.

[spyderg0d]

Please check the exhaust manifold. Have the car running on a lift or in the air, and feel around for air pulses. Do it quickly before the headers get hot!

Also, I would check the battery or altinator outputs, if for some reason voltage drops below 12v the ecu reads it off the 02, as a signal drop, richens the mixture or leans I can't remember.

[ultimatetester]

Lean = low voltage, rich = high voltage

[FiberFast]

I'm going to look into the alternator and check the volatage. I have not checked that yet but good news the car is not smoking now, it's not throwing a cel after I cleared it twice (came back the first time) this could have been from no fuel in the rail due to fuel pressure regulator replacement. Regardless after givving it a few miles it appears to be opperating properly. Smog shop was closed so I am going to try to get in there this week in the evening or this Saturday. I will look at the exhaust whenever my cat gets here. I have ordered meyle heavy duty control arms and a meyle guibo and drive shaft center bearing as well and figure I will tackle that simultaneously. Asside from bolts and nuts what else do I need to replace the center bearing and guibo?

[spyderg0d]

Center bearing is pressed on so a good chisel of whacking. Lol. Look up the DIY as Itl have better how to than I can say in my words. Biggest part about it is making sure you,mark the drive shafts so you put it back together the exact same. This avoids imbalances which cause some good shaking.

[FiberFast]

Oh yea, in regards to the alternator/battery. I have been having a 1 brake light fail annoyance for a while now. Descided to fix that as well and my neighbor have me a life hack I will never forget. I had accidentally dropped the bulb into the headlight, I was trying to fish it out with a pencil and he suggested wrapping up a little ball of tape on the end. Worked like a charm, and got the bulb out. After some inspection the terminal where the light plug interfaces with the tail light housing was completely melted, right where the positive electrode would normally touch it is completely pitted. So after the tape light MacGyver I figure fuck it, took the little metal clip off a 0.7 mechanical pencil and bent it into a little clip that would fit around the missing material and mimic it's shape. I used the two little prongs on the end of the clip to fix around the small plastic pegs that hold the terminal in place. To my joy and surprise my tail lights now work. No more 1 brake light fail.

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Center bearing is pressed on so a good chisel of whacking. Lol. Look up the DIY as Itl have better how to than I can say in my words. Biggest part about it is making sure you,mark the drive shafts so you put it back together the exact same. This avoids imbalances which cause some good shaking.

Thanks I'll make sure to take a sharpy and light when I get under the car. I'm an engineer by trade so I am ashamed to say it's taken this long to sort these problems. My conclusion is that I had several parts failing/malfunctioning at the same time. Not impossible for a 20yr old car with 200k on the clock.

[Eric93se]

If your clearing codes, you might not pass inspection because their computer will see the old codes. You have to drive it a bunch before they clear on their own. Not sure if INPA software will remove pending codes, but get an old laptop, put XP32bit on it and dl INPA software and get the cable and round conector for under the hood from ebay.

[FiberFast]

If your clearing codes, you might not pass inspection because their computer will see the old codes. You have to drive it a bunch before they clear on their own. Not sure if INPA software will remove pending codes, but get an old laptop, put XP32bit on it and dl INPA software and get the cable and round conector for under the hood from ebay.

Cleared the codes and was not a problem at the smog shop. Failed again but this time it was 82/50 on the 25mph, last time it failed 130/50 on the 25mph test. So my HC has dropped 50ppm which is the legal limit. Now where the Fuck is my new cat?!

[atlantisvip]

Check your LCABS too in regards to shimmy.

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[FiberFast]

The heavy duty meyle controll arms come with street compound urethane bushings.

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Might be bent rim though, I moved away for a while and when I was away the city descided to put an island where there previously was none. Needless to say whilst driving one evening I hit it dead on and went over the island @15 mph. Everything looked ok and there was not any shimmy then. The shimmy seems to have worsened over time. But the wife was in the car when it happened so it's a perfect excuse for a new set of rims. I have been eyeballing some t6s rims.

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C2s look nice too. The car will end up flat hellrot when I plastidip it. The clear on the paint is peeling all over so...

[FiberFast]

So I talked to the guys at hottexhaust about my cat. I ordered a custom bolt in ca legal magnaflow exhaust from them a month ago. Basically it's the same as the 49 state legal bolt in but uses the ca legal cat and has a y pipe that forks back into two pipes for the ca cat. Apparently they are welding that up today or tomorrow and I should have it next week, lag time was due to building a jig for it. When I do get it I will let you know how the fitment is so other people can purchase these as well. Its a stainless mandrell bent bolt in mid pipe with magnaflow cat. I payed $570 for it.

[JEC928]

So a custom OBD1 Y-pipe mid-section with the magnaflow California cats - not bad. As far as I know there's nothing but race pipes for OBD1 mid-sections currently on the market.

What are you doing for cat-back?

[spyderg0d]

Er, alot of guys just get the obd2 midsections for replacements and plug the extra holes.

[FiberFast]

I'm going to bolt on some race land shorties and I was considering a scorpion catback. I like the single tip version but have no idea what it will sound like. Deep and smooth tones are desired. So if you look at the 49 state magnaflow you will see that the pipes merge into one large pipe right before the cat. The 49state kit has a cat with one pipe in and two out. What I got hottexhaust to make me is essentially the same kit but with the dual in dual out magnaflow cat. So after the merge where there is a separated piece, that's where the pipe would fork back into two sections with the o2 bung (i hope) I will have to sew what they send me but thats what I am envisioning.