Member
I have one of the last obd1 e36's. It has the aformentioned lack of a real pcv system and instead has the two hoses that do fuck all except dump oil in the plenum and cause me to fail smog. Last time I failed smog due to a bad valve cover gasket. Oil was getting into the spark plug well and preventing good spark. Fixed that and passed smog. Going to be honest, every time I go to smog this thing I am fixing it... Its just to much fun to get rid of.
Member
While we don't have to pass emissions in this part of Australia, the PCV on my car doesn't seem to cause issue. No oil consumption (aside from me checking the oil about every week), and no smoke to speak of. I doubt BMW would have used this setup if it did simply "dump oil into the intake." The fact that it is suggests abnormal pressure getting into the top end, forcing oil out of the PCV - perhaps why the CCV setup was eventually adopted.
The alternative would be excessive vacuum when slowing down.
A catch can will perhaps prevent oil getting into the intake and burnt, but doesn't solve the root of the problem as it stands today. Something is obviously causing abnormal amounts of oil to enter the intake. Have you considered taking the intake off, cleaning it out, in addition to replacing the PCV hoses?
Member
How did you end up getting rid of the oil from spark plug?Originally Posted by FiberFast
Sent from my SM-G360T using Tapatalk
Member
That was quite some time ago. Thinking almost three years ago? I got it out with a rag then replaced the gasket and used rtv sealant to make sure it worked. It has held up descently so far as I know. As far as the increase in crank case pressure ect I don't think that's the issue. Being that it stopped smoking entirely earlier today and then started again as soon as I was dicking with the hoses/valve I can only assume that's the problem. Also I found a zip the under the manifold. Pretty sure it was on the little bananna hose that goes from the icv to the plastic fitting in the back of the plenum. The little tab that clips into the plenum is missing as well so, between that and the zip tie I think I have found the culprit. Going to replace both those plastic bits and start thinking about a new catalytic converter. Thinking about a magnaflow bolt in unit, anyone have experiance with these?
Also considering the catch can option.
- - - Updated - - -
Oh shit, is that hose from the icv to the plastic fitting supposed to have a hose clamp on it?! Maybe some fucker of a previous owner dropped/lost the hose clamp and replaced it with a zip tie, and now it has nothing but a leak.....
Last edited by FiberFast; 11-06-2016 at 02:06 AM.
Member
There is supposed to be a little plastic clip that holds the two pipes together and prevents them from falling down into the depths of the engine.
Balogne Cajones
No, no hose clamps on the cvv.
Nobody would recertify these machines after somebody screwed with them without any visibility into what they did.
HONK! HONK! Clown car coming through!
-Oakdizzle
Member
Thanks, I put new plugs in and the old ones were yellow. Could the head or block temp sensor be preventing me from going into open loop mode and running rich?
Last edited by FiberFast; 11-06-2016 at 07:48 PM.
Member
You mean *closed* loop. Open loop is when there is no feedback mechanisms in place (or those existing, such as your O2 sensor have failed). Closed loop means the ECU's actions can be measured and tweaked as necessary
Yes, those could be measuring temperatures inaccurately, and causing the engine to think its still stone cold, when in reality it isn't. There are some tests you can do with a multimeter to check whether or not an issue exists (actual measurements are in the Bentley manual).
Member
Running pig rich again... Either I fried the new o2, the injectors are broken/leaking or the coils are failing...
Could be the dme as well?
Last edited by FiberFast; 11-08-2016 at 10:07 PM.
Balogne Cajones
Back to right before you said you fixed it,
Nobody would recertify these machines after somebody screwed with them without any visibility into what they did.
HONK! HONK! Clown car coming through!
-Oakdizzle
Eschew Obfuscation
Refurbished injectors are inexpensive from Meph . Com
I gave heard good things about the magnaflow cats.
Balogne Cajones
... You didnt say whether you tested coils, crank sensor while hot, or if you had a exhaust leak pre o2 sensor, what octane fuel? Without details its just quess work. Need definative answers,
Nobody would recertify these machines after somebody screwed with them without any visibility into what they did.
HONK! HONK! Clown car coming through!
-Oakdizzle
Member
I always run 91. Tested the coils month ago they were good. Considering replacing the coils anyway. I have a new temp sensor for the head, considering a new crank and cam sensor. Anyone have any other suggestions? Take it to a shop is on the table lol
Balogne Cajones
Did you test them cold or hot? It kinda is a big deal....
You said the spark plug tips where yellow?
- - - Updated - - -
Yellow tips is a sign of humidity in the chamber. Either water in the gas, a air leak, a cracked head or hg failure. Or its really humid and hot outside.
- - - Updated - - -
With that one cylinder compression value, prob a crack in the head.
Nobody would recertify these machines after somebody screwed with them without any visibility into what they did.
HONK! HONK! Clown car coming through!
-Oakdizzle
Member
That's my fear... I am going to try a fuel pressure regulator first, these aren't adjustable are they? Coils were Tested cold, have not checked the crank sensor.
Wondering if I got a bad tank of gas?
- - - Updated - - -
Replaced head sensor... Next will be fuel pressure regulator and take off the manifold to swap it. This will allow me to assess the vacuum system properly. Might as well do the injectors at the same time but money is becoming an issue... Only thing I could think of after that would be maf or crank position sensor
Balogne Cajones
Head sensor? Fuel pressure reg, isnt adjustable and wouldnt denote a rich condition if it was bad as its a returnless fuel system. You can test the cps... When its warm.... (Like i said a bajillion times already, as the electronic sensors heat up, their resistance will chamge possibly putting the sensor out of usable phase) like coils, crank and cam sensors... A crank sensor can change as much as 80ohm btwn room temp and running temp. ... But whatev. Im outy of this thread.
Nobody would recertify these machines after somebody screwed with them without any visibility into what they did.
HONK! HONK! Clown car coming through!
-Oakdizzle
Member
Your going to have a lot of carbon in the exhaust that needs to burn off. Get a bottle of CRC GTP (gauaranteed to pass) and do some spirited driving. Get a new set of coils if yours are original
http://www.ebay.com/itm/IC68-For-BMW...-/171349339532
- - - Updated - - -
This one is cheaper and china direct, says shipping is fast though:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SET-OF-6-PCS...30-12139066468
Member
I'm Going to take it to a shop next week. I am fluent in auto fixing and I have reduced the problem to Fuel Pressure Reg, Injectors, Maf... As far as the rich condition is concerned. New cat is on its way but I want to make sure I am not blowing smoke or fuel through it before I put it on. This thing will drive again come hell or high water...
Member
The cat can actually regenerate itself. So long as its not 100% plugged or gone nuclear.
Find all your problems first. Cat is very last thing.
- - - Updated - - -
Have you smoke tested the car? If you don't have a smoke machine you can make your own with a cigar. Put the cigar in a hose that it fits snugly in and pressurize it with your mouth or compressor.
Member
Yes, the cat will go in once I have the car running properly. I am going to try and get it into a shop this week at some point. Hopefully they figure it out without costing an atm and a leg. I would love to throw more parts at the car but I need it to function as a dd right now and frankly I am getting sick of fucking with it right now, cars are more fun to fuck with when they are opperating properly apperently.
Member
They will charge you an arm and a leg, I can promise you that. Why not get an old laptop and put XP 32bit on it and INPA, it has some good diagnostic stuff on it.
Member
You know a good download link for inpa?
Sent from my SM-G360T using Tapatalk
Member
It appears that you have reached the limit of your diagnostic abilities. (Not to suggest that you have no ability, you just do not have the proper tools.) The 20-pin Data Link Connector will tell a good diagnostic package exactly what the engine is doing. The shop should be able to put a smog probe into the exhaust and connect a GT1 Diagnostic package to the car and this will tell them exactly what is coming out of the tail pipe, and what is coming out of, and going into, the engine. You need to call around to the Independent Authorized BMW Service Centers in your area and see if any of them have a GT1 Diagnostic package -- this is a software package that gets installed onto a laptop or PC with a 20-pin connector that goes on the serial port. This package tells them everything, that's E-V-E-R-Y-T-H-I-N-G, about the car. The package costs something like $4,000, so you are not going to buy it for the tool kit you keep.
Your car has no codes stored, you are pulling 1444 on the stomp test, so technically there's nothing wrong with it. Having said that, clearly there is something wrong else it would pass smog.
Member
I am somewhat computer literate so I with that said I read not more than once I am able to aquire the software without it costing me an arm and a leg.
Sent from my SM-G360T using Tapatalk
Member
In that case you should know that sharing download links of paid software is highly illegal. Everybody who shares a download link on this forum brings the risk of this forum getting closed. If you are "literate" then you should be able to find inpa in the same place you find all your other illegally acquired software and movies...
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks