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Thread: E90 N54 Wastegate Actuator

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Toronto Canada
    Posts
    2
    My Cars
    2008 bmw 335xi

    E90 N54 Wastegate Actuator

    Hey everyone,
    I have a 2008 BMW 335xi and had the typical waste gate issue. Today my waste gate finally completely stuck open on my way to school, which I figure because the rattle is gone but so is the power. The car has popped the half check engine light. I've tried to adjust the rear actuator rod, yes I'm sure that's the one that is the culprit because I can rattle it quite a bit with my hand. Anyways, I came across this today, https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-13..._3.0L/ES26393/ and bought it because it was on sale for $20. I was wondering if anyone has tried this. I can see how to re&re everything except the pin at the end of the actuator which connects to the arm on the turbo. Would I need to cut the existing pin out and replace it?

    Thanks in advance,

    GC

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Aberdeen, NC (yes, again)
    Posts
    23,707
    My Cars
    E39M5, E500 4WD
    When I have a car which has issues with the turbo or wastegate, the very first thing I do is read the codes in the computer. The second thing I do is connect a hand vacuum pump to the wastegate, pump it up, and see whether the problem is faulty vacuum apparatus. (If you provide vacuum, and the engine has power again, the turbo and wastegate aren't the problem.) But first, READ CODES, with a BMW specific diagnostic computer. Throwing parts without knowing what the computers know is just plain silly.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Toronto Canada
    Posts
    2
    My Cars
    2008 bmw 335xi
    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer View Post
    When I have a car which has issues with the turbo or wastegate, the very first thing I do is read the codes in the computer. The second thing I do is connect a hand vacuum pump to the wastegate, pump it up, and see whether the problem is faulty vacuum apparatus. (If you provide vacuum, and the engine has power again, the turbo and wastegate aren't the problem.) But first, READ CODES, with a BMW specific diagnostic computer. Throwing parts without knowing what the computers know is just plain silly.
    I figured the waste gate actuator was the issue because I had the rattle during deceleration from higher rpms and figured it was the rear because I could rattle it with my hand. Now the rattle is completely gone, car has a very noticeable loss of power around 3000rpm, the half check engine light that I think is due to low boost and today a red service light came on which I think is for the car running rich. Either way, I will take the car in to get the codes scanned and determine what to do from there but I do believe that the actuator arm is the issue. I'll keep you posted.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Aberdeen, NC (yes, again)
    Posts
    23,707
    My Cars
    E39M5, E500 4WD
    The red "service light" is unrelated, and means that you are due for some computer-monitored regular service.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Charleston, SC
    Posts
    1,330
    My Cars
    '15 I01Rex , '11F25
    Before you put a new waste-gate on I would do as Chris says, if the car has the origianl vacuum lines, they are probably cracked, so you'll lose boost.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    25,410
    My Cars
    F90 M5; E36 M3 Turbo
    I have what I think is minor WG rattle on my 08 535xit with 110k. There is an exhaust rattle on cold start that goes away as the car warms up. I really hear it only in the driveway. It seems to come from the WG area. I have read that tightening the rod on the rear actuator can help. Anyone know more?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Long Island
    Posts
    505
    My Cars
    528iT
    I've done more sets of turbos than I care to remember. The issue with rattling is that the sleeve the actuator arm pivots in, wears out over time, causing slop and the rattling is the backpressure hitting the wastegate flapper. You 'may' be able to tighten it but it will only delay the inevitable for a little while which is replacement of the entire turbo. And while youre in there, you might as well do both or upgrade them.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Shenzhen, China
    Posts
    11
    My Cars
    BMW Series 3
    Sounds like regarding turbo issues, reading codes is quite important.

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