Sounds exactly like I had also! Here's what to do next:
1. I assume you've already unscrewed the single screw holding on the window glass to regulator. If not, do this now.
2. Pry this plastic piece off of the metal "sled" on the regulator that's holding the window glass up. I'm illustrating here on my old regulator that's already out of the car so of course yours will look different. Use a flat head screw driver to pry this off. Once you've got this off, you'll end up with the window sitting on the metal regulator directly. (rotate these next two photos 90 degrees clockwise to orient it like you will see the regulator inside the door.)
IMG_6673.jpgIMG_6674.jpg
3. Now here's the one that takes some courage: you'll need to flex the bottom of the window glass towards the inside of the car to slide it past the little arm of the regulator so that you can lower the window about an inch - just enough to clear the top weatherstrip so that you can pull the window out of the car as shown in the YouTube video.
One hand flexing the bottom of the window glass inwards with the other hand on the outside of the window "pulling" the window downwards. I say "pulling" in quotes because there's nothing to actually grasp, just the palm of your hand against the closed window "pulling" it down through friction of your hand against the window.
Picture here shows the window flexed in this way with the regulator behind it.
The key here is that you only need to lower it just a little bit. And the part of the glass that's scraping/sliding past the regulator is never visible (too low) so even if it got a scratch that would be ok.
It'll feel crazy and wrong so it took me some time to work up the courage to do it. Seems to be the only way as you say because you can't get to the cable that's between the motor and this regulator sled to cut that part of the cable.
better.jpg
Once the window is down a bit, then you can pry the window weatherstrip out of the door frame - towards the upper back corner of the door which will then let you pull the window out.
Hope this makes sense and good luck!
- - - Updated - - -
another tip that i remembered from seeing the blue micro fiber towel in the last photo: first put some micro fiber towels between the inner window glass and the inner door skin. especially if you have tinted windows. So that your window glass doesn't scrape against the door skin when you are flexing it as described.
You are a life saver!...will try this tomorrow.
I'm so angry I'm prepared to break the glass. What a stupid design! Your "trick" seems like an improvisation; something not actually intended to be used by BMW. But as long as it works, I don't care. Apparently no one considered this possible failure mode. It's not mentioned in the Bentley manual (which also says you can leave the glass in while removing the regulator: WRONG!). Nor is it anywhere on YouTube. So I uploaded my frustration:
I'm also having tremendous difficulty removing the exterior lower window trim strip (I've already removed the trim between the quarter window and main window). I want to remove this outer trim strip to provide additional wiggle room to get the window out. But after 17 years, the trim strip is practically fused to the door with dirt, dust, and grime. Sure, a crowbar would provide the leverage needed to wrestle it free, but I'm afraid that would ruin the paint.
If I can get your trick to work without breaking the glass, I will shout this solution from the virtual mountaintops.
Last edited by Frankie; 01-06-2018 at 07:58 PM.
As far as I can tell this is the only way to do it when the regulator fails like ours has. The guy (bimmermerchant) who made that YouTube video seems to suggest it in one of the comments also.
Yes, I removed the exterior lower trim piece before doing this. Don’t know if that was needed or not but wanted max wiggle room on the window. On removing that trim: I remember it being tight but had success starting from the back. If it’s not budging, a flathead screwdriver with some masking tape on the tip to protect as well as a microfiber towel may let you get it started.
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Last edited by arthbkins; 01-06-2018 at 08:20 PM.
The glass is out!!!!
But...I decided to approach it in a different way.
Surely BMW planned for this eventuality. Removing the plastic spacer pinched between the glass and the cable trolley looked fraught with peril: the spacer could break or the glass could break. Even if I did get it out that way, the glass would be unavoidably scratched.
Then I reasoned, the window control unit has obviously detected a failed regulator -- I don't know how (maybe motor resistance?), and has entered into a fail-safe mode by ignoring window button input. Therefore, bypassing the window control unit by jumpering the window motor should cause the motor to function. And it did!
After rigging two wire connectors...
female_electrical_connectors.jpg
...and plugging them into the motor...
window_motor_connection.jpg
...I applied 12 volts from the car battery (using jumper cables) and voila:
door_window_half.jpg
This is the technique used in the YouTube video you posted, where the guy uses a snipped motor connector to apply 12 volts. But that was only because he had "removed power" from the car before lowering the window, so I was misdirected into dismissing this jumpering technique.
This must be the "official" way to extract the regulator.
BTW: I managed to remove the exterior lower window trim. DO NOT USE PRY TOOLS! No amount of protective tape on the door or tool will prevent scratching the paint and/or trim strip. This is due to the significant force required: you'll tear right thru the tape (ask me how I know). Using rubber work gloves, apply upward force starting from the outer end and keep on pulling up. It will take a long time to work it loose. In my case, the trim was so tight it took paint off with it (notice upper door seam in picture above). It also looked like some corrosion had started in there.
I plan to write an extensive DIY on not only removing window regulators, but how to rebuild them.
Thanks Art!
Congratulations!!
Our regulator failures sound like they were slightly different. I could hear my motor run when I pressed the window buttons, but the window wouldn't budge. My guess was the cable was thoroughly "eaten" by the regulator and would not release even with the motor running. I guess I can test it now since I still have that old regulator so I can see if applying power directly causes it to release. I will give it a try when I get a chance.
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