That would explain why I've found different lines on different era cars (talking about transmission end of the cooler lines)... I've found 2 banjo lines (like mine) quick coupler like the one on the PS cooling coil, and 2 different regular flared couplers.
The only "downside" in this mod is that you don't get to buy the lines as a shelf replacement part. On the other hand, starting at around $110 each line, I could expect to see folks crying over how pricey they are. I don't know about up there, but down here you can get your pressure hoses reman'd (recrimped to look and work like new again). It would be a matter of "mocking up" lenghts and fitting angles and send them out to have them redone. I plan on do it at some point, but I didn't want to disturb perfectly good sealing banjo bolts. It doesn't leaks a drop even on a single hose clamp per line.
Diehard E39 driver.
I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"
I was going to say that's exactly what I'd do - take them to my local hose place - the usual truck / construction / industrial hose type place that would make them look like bulletproof new items. Hell they could fab up some lines whole as long as you spec'd lengths, bends, and ends... they are super good at that stuff, they do it all day...
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
I had a set of PS pressure and return lines refurbished for my M5 steering box swap. They look better than the new ones and they coated me a fraction of when new OEM would. I will definitely have the transmission lines done when I do the next filter and fluid refresh in about 6 months. (Haven't completed the steering box swap yet but I want to have all the parts around so when I drop the subframe I can tackle steering box, bushings, front end refresh and headers if money permits)
Last edited by jicaino; 10-23-2016 at 10:55 AM.
Diehard E39 driver.
I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"
GT the old air/atf rad has a thermal protection bypass not allowing fluid cooling under 50°C or so. It's built in on the lower passenger side.
On the other hand the newer at cooler arrangement has a 105°C tsat, the atf flows freely but the coolant circulates only at engine temp range. Pretty silly if you ask me.
Diehard E39 driver.
I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"
I've been collecting parts to do a full transmission oil change, 20ltrs LT71141, febi oil filter and gasket and a new sump as mine is quite rusty.
Today i had time to drop in and the local you pull, and found the oil cooler right next to a car that someone had been stripping, so it would have been rude to leave it there so i had it for a tenner pipes as well.
Exactly. I got onto the whole thing from Audi days where the motors have this high-pressure hydraulic circuit with a pressure accumulator and a fairly unique set of high pressure lines including one with a 'hidden' pressure reducing restrictor orifice inside it. OEM ones became super expensive and the crappy aftermarket ones didn't have the restrictor so they'd screw up your system... So then we figured out how the pro hose guys would happily put together sweet hoses for you including moving your restrictor over into the new one for less than the factory part. DONE.
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That's excellent.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
Diehard E39 driver.
I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"
It has a higher restriction than OE or ZF. Not necessarily a bad thing, but certainly not as free flowing as the OE or ZF ones. "Filters better" is mumbo-jumbo for "it has more restriction when filtering" which BTW it ain't "better" filtering. It's just more restrictive re. flow.
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It whistles because the filter element allows less flow and the pump builds up pressure past it, making a muted whistling sound at light/med light trhottle pressure, or when you're driving steadily slow RPMs. I find it to be an annoyance I can't live with. It makes me antsy about something breaking up, and causes me to drive faster than I normally would just to stop hearing it.
Diehard E39 driver.
I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"
Agreed, per example my HVAC filter before I would use the fancy HEPA filters, interestingly I could hear the blower working harder and when I'd service it, it would be extremely wraped.
I asked my HVAC buddy that has an HVAC business and recommended using the cheaper ones, but replacing them in shorter intervals and would be sufficient and would not constrict flow. It's been 4 years now using the cheap filters, with intervals of every 15 days, coils are as clean as can be and the blower is quite happy. Just my 2 cents whilst you ponder on the whistling effect.
Last edited by Mannyf540; 10-23-2016 at 12:53 PM.
I'll try to source a zf one out then, I will use this filter anyway as I was going to drain and fill the tyranny a few times to get most of the oil from the TC leaving the filter till the last fill. This Febi one can be dropped in during that process and replaced at the end with a zf filter
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1999 540 Auto with Eaton M112 supercharger
Airlift 3H/P management, M5 steering box, M5 LSD, Eibach/Dinan front and rear anti roll bars, PM Modifich door boards, 4 Eton 6.5s, Sound Magus VS3500.1, 2 x 10" Kove audio subs, Alpine ICS X7 Headunit, 19" BBS Hammer Sports RT245/RT246, Muffler delete, electric coolant fan.
http://www.thectsc.com/
Here ya go
At first I didn't put much hope in the effects of doing a fluid/filter service so I used what was available. Then it went so well that I did another one and improved even more. Now that I've replaced 2 filters and 3x fluid I will spring for the ZF genuine. My transmissions guy is an official ZF rebuild/repair/warranty service center and he tells me that my transmission is as healthy as can be, he even almost slapped me out of wanting to rebuild it "because 230000 km"...
Back on topic, repeated flushes (no power flush! Just draining it well and refilling a couple of times, with drive intervals of around 1000 miles) are what the ZF guy recommends. I'm sticking to his advice as he has been my auto trans guy forever. And because having a shop it would have been easier for him to rebuild it upon my request instead of slapping some sense into me and improving my tranny at the cost of 2 sucesive filter/fluid services.
Diehard E39 driver.
I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"
+1 on using ZF filter.
The cheapest ZF aka filtran filter I was able to find online was from RM European. $40.
Putting this thread to the top, as we are getting into summer. I'm going to try this out - ( JRE302, this is the thread )
I need this mod done also. I have e38 750il with ZF 5 hp30 I do believe. Has anyone got the hose configuration down for post 98?
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No - he is listed as a 2000, he has the same stupid inline setup that everyone got. I have a 2000 as well. 5HP30’s got it too.
If you follow the OP thread, the info is in there.
You need - 1) early radiator style trans cooler
2) - the connector and hoses that mate up.
3) the manual trans plug for the bottom of the Rad. 4) the manual trans plug for the watercooled alternator. 5) the manual trans small line from the rad to rhe water pump. This is not a V12 part, so we have to measure carefully when we get there.
The old style lines and the existing lines both have to be cut, and merged to marry this up. There is a bit of fabrication for that, but not too much.
This will improve trans cooling, and engine cooling.
well, I didn't know 5hp30 ever had that setup. checked realoem and learned smth new.
to be honest that setup is actually ok except tstat. if there was a company producing lower temp tstat for the tranny, we wouldn't have had to change the setup completely.
Last edited by TiesTorN; 07-16-2020 at 09:54 AM.
True - the old one has no thermostat. Maybe gutting the new ones is the way to go.... but the old one takes a heat load and removes it from the radiator completely.
This is now top of the list for my 540iT
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I was hoping someone has found a place that can pre fab the hoses, therefore the marriage will start off smoothly.
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Trust me, I've had mine changed before. It was all clogged up from PO that used alumaseal, caused all sorts of problems
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Has anyone noticed a decrease in heat soaked engine temp due to no extra heat from the transmission? A small drop from ~105°C?
I'm adding an 88c thermostat to my 2001 540iT and will do the air cooler too. Just curious!
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