Just need to add fluids and it'll be time to see if it starts and runs, hopefully I got the wiring right but..
Finished up under the hood and under the car.
The Misimoto radiator fit well and with a pusher fan there is ample room between it and the engine.
Forgot I had a crank breather tank and got it back in place.
Under the car, front sway bar, x brace and shifter installed.
Getting the exhaust back in was a royal PITA, it's dual 3" pipes make for very tight clearance and it had to go in just so. It does't look it but the diff cover is the lowest point on the car, the exhaust sits just above this point as it transitions under the rear subframe.
Over the weekend, installed my window net and kind of started over and taking my time I got all the panels lined up, actually better than they've ever been.
Now I can install the hood pins and collars to hold the harnesses in place on the roll bar and that's it.
I also turned over the motor for the first time and got it running. Pretty amazing it fired right up and all the electronics are working 100% considering all the wiring I did. I jumper wired the fuel pump to fill the lines and rail and when I pushed the start button - bang it started and ran nice smoothing right out. I had to shut it right down as the the oil lines and cooler filled it brought the oil level down and I didn't have any more of the break-in oil that was left in the motor on hand. I need to leave this in until after I've run it up to temp and know there are no coolant or oil leaks.
Last edited by CMM3; 04-03-2017 at 04:02 PM.
So close! I have to admit I am going to miss this thread once your car is done! I really liked reading and seeing all the updates!
Many have been following my thread on the build here;
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-to-full-Track
Thought it noteworthy that i had the car corner balanced and the weight reduction achieved was better than I expected.
Total weight with (250 lb simulated driver weight in the car) + (10 gallons of gas a@ 6 lbs per gallon = 60 lbs) is 2,871 lbs
Dry weight = 2561 lbs
Stock weight = 3131 lbs
3131 – 2561 = 570 lbs total weight reduction
I dug up the sheet from last year and it was 3247 lbs with driver and gas so apples to apples it shed 376 lbs, a more meaningful comparison to how the car weighed before since I had already put in race seats, rear reinforcement, suspension, and brakes. From stock it must have already been around 150 lbs lighter (seats, wheels, AC compressor, aux radiator fan removed ). The cage added some weight back which the cage builder estimated at around 175 lbs to 200 lbs with the extra bracing. So without the cage it'd be down around 2400 lbs, a 700+ lb reduction from stock, just goes to show how much crap is in a car these days that you can take out and still roll.
Last edited by CMM3; 04-19-2017 at 02:27 PM.
Why did you put an X-pipe in? It's been proven to hurt torque down low on the s54, even with Vanos mapping, especially if the merge is too close to the headers, which yours looks to be... Same problems that people experience with a single exhaust on the s54.
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I'd say it's up to you to prove otherwise you threw it out there, I know what my engine is outputting and others with a single exhaust that are also very stout down low.
You're falling into the trap of singling out any one part of the exhaust i.e. the x pipe and making a blanket statement. You don't know how the whole system is configured and designed to work.
There are a lot of design specifics that are not readily apparent that I'm not prepared to share specifics about here.
You're right I don't know what the headers/rest of the exhaust has been designed around. Most single exhausts, especially the bimmerworld version are terrible until 4k rpms even with proper tuning. I just looked at your motor build and saw you have a 3.4L stroker, so that makes things considerably different than a stock 3.2L.
From my own personal experience, we tried placing an x-pipe too close to the headers on my former s54 e30 m3 and it was making 25wtq less than a stock s54 up until 3700 rpms. When we removed the x-pipe only from the exhaust, it picked up 35 wtq from 1700-3700 rpm and and another 12wtq in the same range with proper tuning on the dyno. 95% of the cars out there running single exhausts, or x-pipes close to the headers experience similar symptoms. Borla proved this in their initial testing of their x-pipe, which is why it was revised 3 times. Most section 2s out for the e46 m3 have 2 y merges, but this is already a good distance away from the headers since it retains the dual design of the section 1. Granted the merge design it self also plays a role in this, but there has been lots of testing to prove my initial statement.
I guess on a track car it won't really matter since you're above 4k the whole time any way.
Last edited by e30polak; 04-19-2017 at 04:42 PM.
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Wow, i just realized you're in Salem and run with COM. When's the maiden voyage?
Incredible work. Can't wait to check it out in person.
Nice, I'll see ya there.
Wait a minute, now that i'm slowly starting to put things together, I was there at Palmer when the accident happened. That rain during the TT was serious, i only did my out lap and came back in scared. I now remember your car. I'm glad you're ok and the car is now better than ever!
Where's your battery been relocated to?
DIY/Project Links:_TC Kline D/A & Suspension Refresh_|_Oil/Engine Cooling Options / Install_|_
Dinan/Fikse FM-5 Build_|_Stereo Install_|_HID Retrofit_|_
Looking good Dan!!!
I'm looking for lexan... where did you source it... I only found an outfit on the other side of the pond.
Best,
Patrick Avakian
IP # 368
You can make your own side and rear windows from a single 4x8 sheet of 1/8" thick polycarbonate, just be sure to get the scratch and UV resistant kind available at any plastic industrial supplier.
Racing Shield http://www.racingshields.com has the mold to make a pre-formed windshield for the Z3. I'd highly recommend getting the pre-trimmed version as it fit perfectly.
- - - Updated - - -
Front pass side engine compartment, you can see it in some of the pictures.
Last edited by CMM3; 04-21-2017 at 10:05 AM.
Looking forward to seeing this on track in May! Great job on the rebuild
Ryan #239
'91 Civic DX race car
'08 M3
It's hard for me to believe but with the few things I've done over the last week it's really done.
The entire project took just under a year at 11 months
This will be my last post in this thread, once I get it out on the track I'll try to get some action pictures posted.
I had a Momo wheel already installed but getting in/out was a problem so I bought and NRG quick release. I was planning on mounting it right to the Momo hub adapter already in place but this put the steering wheel way to close. The Momo hub adapter mates to the stock spline and then has flat surface from which 4 metal prongs which stick up about an 1.5" which the steering wheel mounted to. Add another 2.25 for the NRG and the steering wheel would have been around 4" closer than stock. So I cut the prongs off then grinded and sanded the surface flat, drilled and tapped it. This allowed me to mount the NRG base right to the flat surface and back to where it was to begin with:
Put on the required numbers to run with COM
And got the hood pins installed. I was thinking of using flush mount but it didn't look like there was enough room on the underside of the hood for the mechanism so I went basic. Turned out there were already holes in the radiator support in a great spot that I was able to utilize with some large washers and jam nuts.
The final piece is the tow strap which I hope goes unused. I rolled it up and tie wrapped it just to keep it from flapping around.
Thanks to everyone for sharing in this journey and providing encouragement along the way.
THE END
Last edited by CMM3; 05-01-2017 at 08:08 AM.
Nice, congrats!
it's not done until we see some full-car shots!
this whole thread is amazing!! great work
It will be a great day when you get back out there.
Beautiful. Is there anything better than a fresh race car?
Be real....its never the end
1995 M3...Screwed
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