Mcmaster Carr
For the quarter and rear windows I used 4m Aluminum Twist-Resistant Rivet Nuts, Metric 18-8 Stainless Steel Hex Drive Flat Head Screws, Metric Countersunk Washers, and Weather-Resistant Rubber Sealing Washers. The rubber sealing washers are under the metal countersunk washers to provide a cushion.
Elsewhere I used 5m and 6m steel rivet nuts with round or hex head screws.
The tool to install the rivet nuts is a little pricey and I had to get the metric mandrel and nosepieces to go with it also all available from Mcmaster.
But it's worth having the tool.
I ended up replacing every plastic square nut insert that BMW uses to accept sheet metal screws with the steel nut inserts and it's way better having fixed nuts installed rather than trying to thread a loose nut on on the other side of a sheet metal panel
Last edited by CMM3; 02-27-2017 at 02:19 PM.
Awesome build! I just signed up to the forum today to let you know how clean I thought this build was! Hoping for some track footage when it's all done
Looking great! You're doing it right. One of the best ground-up rebuilds I've seen. Keep it up
Are side skirts really about 10kg each? I have been heavily thinking fabricating carbon ones as those seem to be a lot of weight for their size.
Another thing I have always thought would be transforming C-pillars into flying buttresses, So that instead of individual rear side glasses there would be ind of a U-shape rear glass that is much narrower than normal and sides would mount to B-pillar. Letting air travel through and radically reducing low air pressure area behind car, but your solution of having holes in rear window is very interesting. I hope it works as intended!
Normally same cabin air exits through seams of hatch.
Last edited by Remotion; 03-02-2017 at 07:52 PM.
Z3 & E36 RamAir systems, send private message for more information.
The skirts are really light just thin sheet metal so I don't think there would be much weight saved it would be worth the effort to make them out of carbon. Another place were you could save a lot of weight with carbon equivalents would be the front and rear bumper carriers. These are made out of pretty thick aluminum and are universal to both the coupes and roadsters. If someone were to offer a set of these for sale I'd buy them.
- - - Updated - - -
Not too much happening, ordered some roll bar padding and installed it. SFI grade for the helmet area and regular stuff elsewhere. The SFI is like 10X the cost, must be just because it has SFI approval because it looks the same - big rip off.
There is a salvage yard near me that has like 6 roadsters in it. If I was going down there any time soon I could pick you up a set of bumper crash bars. But I don't have any plans to go there any time soon and its a 45min drive each way plus time spent there. Like a half a day of my life then would have to ship them to you, probably not worth it in the long run. If I do need to go down there for something in the near future I will let you know! You could order them from the junk yard, they ship stuff. WWW.Brickyardimportedcars.com
Last edited by Venom13132; 03-03-2017 at 10:12 AM.
I thought so, so bmwfans and realoem state untrue weight for side skirts.
What part numbers those front and rear bumper carriers are? They are cripplezone safety structures right? I don't know if touching those is very good idea, even as they are simple as f to do propably and very tempting from that point. For some odd reason I think that I cant see part number in realoem or bmwfans (better because it states weights)...
BTW: Thanks for sharing this with us!
Edit:
Front carrier: 51118397511 ... 9,5lbs aka 4,3kg seems really light to me. Carbon would save 3kilos or slightly less, when doing properly 3-4layers.
Rear carrier: 51128397517 ... 12,4lbs aka 5,6kg seems reasonably light too imho.
IF those stated weights are right, that is.
They could be made if you want!
Last edited by Remotion; 03-03-2017 at 04:11 PM.
Z3 & E36 RamAir systems, send private message for more information.
Chipping away at it, I should have my motor back from being rebuilt this week so trying to get as much done before.
I'm going to use a Misimoto x-line aluminum radiator which they claim is 92% thicker than stock at just under 3". In doing so I won't have room for the stock shroud or a puller fan. So I'm going to run a Spal 16" pusher fan. All +12v and ground are tied to distribution blocks with the +12 going through the master cut off switch. With the switch off the only hot lead is from the battery to the bulkhead post to the switch. The second post is connected to the other side of the switch to feed the starter and engine cooling fan through a 50a circuit breaker and relay. I mounted the relay on the fan and the breaker on the fire wall and used connector to enable me to unplug the fan to replace easily if needed. The fan will be controlled by a thermo switch turning on/off automatically with a manual on override switch on the dash for coming into the pits at the end of a session to prevent heat soak and help cool down. I got the wire harness made up for it and found some really nice mounting brackets from Massive made specifically for a z3/e36 radiator and the Spal fan. The plastic mounting straps going through the core of the radiator are a bad idea and should be avoided.
Got both doors and mirrors installed. My "M" mirrors got trashed in the crash so I used non-M which I found for $50 versus $500. The M mirrors look better but the viability in the non-M's is significantly better so they are good choice for track use.
When Chris Howard built my cage he had to guess where to put the door bars to leave room for the doors with the panels on them. Amazingly and with luck he left about a 1/8 of an inch clearance.
After gutting the doors completely I reinstalled the Never Done aluminum panels that I had covered with the M Cloth with the pull loop to open and grab handles to close. They are really light so in this case I opted for a little aesthetics over ultimate weight reduction.
Figured I might as well get the front coil-overs in and mount the remote reservoirs. I previously had the reservoirs mounted up front on the radiator support. Now the shock braces offered a much more convenient and away from any heat location.
Last edited by CMM3; 03-07-2017 at 09:10 AM.
Keep up the stellar work! I look forward to every update.
Those door panels look fantastic!
Cooper
'00 Alpine III M Roadster (2017-Present)
'02 Topaz 3.0 (2009-2020)
'97 Montreal 1.9 (2005-2009)
UPS just arrived with my RV Mirror and radiator.
I picked the mirror up on Ebay for $35 with shipping included and consider it a steal. It's very well made and the mounting brackets are about 1/2 thick very beefy compared to others I've seen selling for 2X this.
The radiator is built like a tank, is very thick and mates up perfectly to the Spal fan and mtg bracket I got from Massive.
I'm very pleased with these purchases.
Would you say that never done door cards have better quality feel to them than oem cards? I have been playing with the idea a couple of years already.
Z3 & E36 RamAir systems, send private message for more information.
They are aluminum sheets and pretty basic with no provisions for arm rest, speakers or switch for the mirrors. Perfect for a track car and they do fit well. Before converting my car to track only I did have some arm rest made and attached them to the panels, and I just eliminated the speakers and control for the mirror. You could so the same easily enough in a street car and convert back to stock at any time.
Now making some good progress. Got the engine dressed on a stand and the clutch and trans installed and today put the motor back in. I have a engine hoist and with the car on a cart and the radiator support off it was real easy to position and raise it into place with the motor mounts and subframe already attached.
I'm no longer running PS and it took me about 10 tries to find the right belt working with the parts store down the street.
Once again Chris Howard who built the cage got it right is estimating where to put the diagonal braces to the strut towers
got the oil lines plumbed from the VAC filter housing to the firewall bulkhead fittings, with the PS and brake booster gone there was plenty of room for the oil lines
lucked out in that the fittings going into the housing just clear the plastic wiring box on the engine
When I had the cage made I had the the cowl sheet metal and brace that holds it removed, really glad I did as there is now plenty of room behind the engine as well
I had the engine builder put an e46 m3 water pump which has the coolant feed on the pass side. He welded a -8 an fitting on it so I can run a braided line from it to my coolant reservoir; Put my headers on before installing the motor and not a scratch on the ceramic coating.
Last edited by CMM3; 07-14-2018 at 02:13 PM.
Best thread on forum.
Z3 & E36 RamAir systems, send private message for more information.
Collecting some odd and end parts as I go kind of determines what I can do next. A rear shock mount I'd ordered (unique to the coupes) came in so I was able install the rear bumper. I use to have a factory 3 piece hatch spoiler on the car. Along with the key/latch, license plates holder, lights and emblems the rear as it was looks crowded to me now and I'm liking the smoother, cleaner look.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
I test fit the CF intake and found the oil pressure fittings in the housing interfere with it, 90 and 45 degree fitting will fix this. With the help of my son I got the front suspension, and steering rack back in.
Last edited by CMM3; 03-20-2017 at 06:25 PM.
Love how clean the back of your coupe looks now (and for that matter the entirety of this build). Inspirational work!
I added a note to the Z3 section of the forum - they all need to see your work.
Cooper
'00 Alpine III M Roadster (2017-Present)
'02 Topaz 3.0 (2009-2020)
'97 Montreal 1.9 (2005-2009)
Awesome car. What tires\wheels are you going to run with this?
Hey Dan, really looking good__I'd say you're almost there!
Nice to see that the bulk of my work made the cut, so your fabricator must've approved
Only frequenting the Z3 forum, I tend to forget about all the other interests that are provided for; maybe the post in there will keep reminding me to check back...
I have two sets of Apex 17" wheels running 245/40 Hoosier A7's
- - - Updated - - -
Hey Randy, the work you did was the foundation for the entire back half of the cage. There wasn't anything he could have done to improve upon it so he built off of it.
You may have noticed I used resettable circuit breakers instead of fuses in my switch panel, I got this idea from you and remembered you telling me how with them you could push a button while still on the track to reset a tripped breaker and prevent the need to be towed into the paddock to find and change a fuse. Thanks for that suggestion and Glad you checked in.
Last edited by CMM3; 03-21-2017 at 09:21 PM.
The ECU has been relocated to under the dash, and last night I contorted myself to make connect the engine wiring harness to it. I had to lengthen the wires coming from the coils by about 20" to so so. With the connectors I needed a good size hole in the firewall to fit them through and found a two piece grommet that came solid. With hole saws I cut a holes in it for the main and coil looms and mounted the grommet. This seals the firewall and protects the looms from chafing.
for the clutch fluid line, O2 sensors, and gauge wires I used another style of grommet that is able to expand to fit over the connectors as needed and still provide a seal.
With no room behind on clutch fluid line I faced the extension out towards the engine and on the others I faced it in. A tie wrap around the grommets at the end were they are a little loose on the wire seals them up, and they cushion the hose and wires nicely.
Feels like things are starting to move more quickly now. Finished up all the wiring and plumbing to the engine, everything seems to be working properly. Got the radiator support, radiator, fan, installed and running. Got the front brakes installed which allowed me to bleed the brakes and clutch. And bolted on the hood, headlights and front bumper. The pass headlight has been hollowed and is just a shell and the drivers side now has dual 4" ducts to feed cool air directly into the intake. I then painted both with plastic dip. All the panels still need to be aligned but it looks like a car again
Last edited by CMM3; 03-25-2017 at 05:32 PM.
Bookmarks