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Thread: What'd I do?

  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by rajicase View Post
    Federal rsrr will be a really good tire for the power you are making.

    You also should check your alignment and rear suspension setting cause that will make a huge difference in traction.
    Tires are all wearing good, and it drives spot on, but yeah I'm sure it could use an alignment. I've had the car a year an never done one, although the last 6 months was sitting in my garage. Is there a setting other than stock that will be better for rear traction? Once I use up the Chinese "performance" tires on it now, I"ll Look into a set of rsrr's.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Also looks like I should probably run the extra set of staggered contours from my other car to get the most rubber I can squeeze in there. I have 2 sets of square DS1's that came with the car that I will probably never use now.
    "**if you suck at driving, it certainly could put you into a curb. Don't suck."

  2. #102
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    Less than -1.5 degrees of camber per side and a tiny bit of toe in, in the rear.

    I run -1.5 and I believe 0.10 toe in per side and it hooks really well. Also if you have DA coilovers, play with the stiffness settings. Also tire pressure and road temps make a huge difference.

    The turbo you have hits real hard, but no reason you should be blowing the tires up in 3rd, at the sissy boost (jk :P) that you are currently running, that's ridiculous.

    Also compound is going to make a bigger difference than will width , given the limited space under those stock fenders. Look for stickier tires, not necessarily wider. A 235 RSRR runs like most 245 or 255 tires.
    Last edited by rajicase; 03-23-2017 at 09:47 PM.

  3. #103
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    both in the rear?
    "**if you suck at driving, it certainly could put you into a curb. Don't suck."

  4. #104
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    My rear alignment settings are;
    L -1.5* camber R -1.5* camber
    L 0.10 toe IN R 0.10 toe IN

    - - - Updated - - -

    A little less than -1.5 would be even better for straight line traction, but I like hitting the twisties too, so I made that compromise.

  5. #105
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    I like the twisting too, come one we do own M3's lol. I have a big block Olds muscle car I haven't touched in years b cause I got bored of straight line and bought a BMW.
    "**if you suck at driving, it certainly could put you into a curb. Don't suck."

  6. #106
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    Temp really plays a role your in NY so I'm guessing it's still cold. Raji alignment specs are good I run -1.3 for camber same toe. If you drive the car a lot best compromise will be a 200 tread ware tire if you don't drive it a lot I'd go even less. Tires do get expensive if your buying them every 8 months though keep that in mind.

  7. #107
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    Then I think -1.5 is a good compromise; along with some sticky <200 tread wear tires and tweaking your tire pressure a bit.. and I think you will have solid traction at 18-20psi with that turbo which will be pretty much be tapped out at that point.

    - - - Updated - - -

    My RSRRs are wearing excellently, I think 12-15k miles is actually going to happen. I never would have believed it!

  8. #108
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    Sadly I think the flame tires will be my next tire purchase I can't justify 180+ a tire for on how hard I drive.

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mklock View Post
    Sadly I think the flame tires will be my next tire purchase I can't justify 180+ a tire for on how hard I drive.
    Flame tires? What's that?

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mklock View Post
    Temp really plays a role your in NY so I'm guessing it's still cold. Raji alignment specs are good I run -1.3 for camber same toe. If you drive the car a lot best compromise will be a 200 tread ware tire if you don't drive it a lot I'd go even less. Tires do get expensive if your buying them every 8 months though keep that in mind.
    Good point on the temps, it was a blistering 29 degrees out. I plan on driving the car a lot. Tires will have to wait a little while I'm ultra broke right now. Time to off some spare parts.
    "**if you suck at driving, it certainly could put you into a curb. Don't suck."

  11. #111
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    Oh yeah 29 degrees man that's a huge problem right there lol!

  12. #112
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    It's gonna be 45 degrees tomorrow, it's a heat wave!
    "**if you suck at driving, it certainly could put you into a curb. Don't suck."

  13. #113
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    Flame pattern = rsrr you should know that!!!! It's just a silly pattern I love it.

  14. #114
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    Ah okay, they really are great tires. Nothing better without spending twice as much, and even then I think the difference at <500wtq is negligible..

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by rajicase View Post
    One week later: damn 18psi slow af.
    I took my neighbor for a ride today. He was a little scared at first, but all smiles within a few miles. I think I'm getting used to WG pressure. I wanna turn it up a notch. Damn that happens fast.

    I gotta date soon with my buddy's Subaru with a gt30r on e85. Should be an interesting match up.
    "**if you suck at driving, it certainly could put you into a curb. Don't suck."

  16. #116
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    Crank it up!

  17. #117
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    I set the boost to 12 psi tonight and went out to play with a few friends and hit up the local lots. This car continues to impress me..... And everyone else that sees it in action. I put lengths on my buddies supercharged 400whp S52 powered e30. 5 times, 3 back to back. A 2017 f80 M3 with exhaust and tune couldn't hang. "550whp" mk3 gti wouldn't run because his clutch was slipping, and I ran into an ear splitting loud newer 5.0 rustang that got gapped by bus lengths on my way home. Right before I ran my buddy's e30, he put his 260lbs friend in my front seat and said "ride with him to get video". So yeah, I gapped everything I came across, with a weight penalty to boot.

    At 12 psi the car is scary fast, at least to me. The rear end is scary at this power level with all Oem rubber. I really need to start thinking about tightening up the rest of the drivetrain and chassis now, and getting bigger better sneakers for more grip.


    The car looks slow, like a dead stock 1995 M3. It's ultra quiet, no louder than my stock e36 m3, with zero drone or resonance. I put 200 miles on it today, did multiple back to back pulls, beat the balls off it and it didn't seem to even break a sweat. It's exactly what I wanted it to be. I'm warm and fuzzy �� I hope I don't blow it up.

    "**if you suck at driving, it certainly could put you into a curb. Don't suck."

  18. #118
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    Its time to blow the dust off this thread and update it. I cant take the toxic waste dump that is FB anymore. Its impossible to have an even semi intelligent discussion over there. Reminds me of the south park episode where everyone is spewing doodoo out of their mouths.

    The car has spent more time being worked on than driven. After about 1500 miles i developed a random, horrible noise, similar to a rod nock, but it went away when i pushed in the clutch. my ears kept telling me it was in the engine. I reused the TOB when i installed the twin disc, and figured that must be it, since everything else is new lol. Out comes the gear box and in goes a new Sach TOB. No luck. At this point i said F$@& it drive it till it blows. 1500 miles later i sheared the oil pump shaft bouncing off the limiter in second gear. I shut it down immediately, I was only a mile from home so i coasted back to my garage safely. I pulled the pan, installed a used oil pump and crossed my fingers, figuring i had finally found the source of my noise.

    I was wrong. The noise was still there. 500 miles later i lost all oil pressure. I pulled the engine with plans to build the bottom end for real power. I found all the oil pump bolts had backed out of the housing, causing my loss of pressure. I checked a few main and rod bearings and they still look new. I also finally found the source of my noise. The 6 crank pulley bolts had backed out and were finger tight, causing the pulley to jiggle and clank back and forth on the bolts! it ruined the damper and pully, but at least i finally found the noise. Aside from a fair amount of crank walk, the engine is still OK to rebuild. I wondered into the local machine shop to chat about machine work on an s52 and get prices, and there just happens to be an S52 bottom end with a fresh hone, new rings and bearing. He refreshed it for a friend of a friend, and its been abandoned for 4 years. $600 later i had another stock bottom S52 with a complete gasket kit and other goodies in the back of my truck. This one got new wave lock washers and new bolts on the crank pully lol.

    I got the engine installed and was back on the road ready to enjoy the last 2 months of the season before snow flies. This motor ran better than ever, much stronger than the last one. About 1000 miles later i had a issue with my boost controler and hit 23psi 2/3 times one night. The next day i started it up and it was smoking. Smoking randomly under boost and while driving. Compression test shows cylinders 1 and 6 are about 160psi, all others are 185-195. Spark plug #1 is covered in oil. . Sadness

    This happened about a week ago. I can only assume i broke a piston ring land or 2, car is down for the rest of the season. Its definately getting a built bottom end this winter, i had a little taste of high boost and i need more. Im also sick of changing engines instead of oil. i need something that will last a few seasons, i have other parts to break on this car.
    "**if you suck at driving, it certainly could put you into a curb. Don't suck."

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