Hey guys. I have a 2000 323ci 5 speed manuel, and was doing some body work on it since saturday or last week, So i unplugged the positive battery connector under the hood.
A week later when I was done and try to start up the car, it took a while to start up. It would start run a lil then engine will go off and if its not getting fuel.
I started it and let it run for a while, and now it starting to start up fine, but while am driving, the car shakes/jerks when in low gears, and it would rev up high but the speed doesn't move much.
All this started to happen after unplugging the battery and letting the car set for a week.
Any help
Thanks
Get it scanned for codes, to many variables.
Is the terminal mounted on tight? Could be junk form the gas. Get the Gummout engine treatment (white bottle with red letters), looks just like the Seafoam bottle. Throw a half bottle in the gas tank. Make sure you have at least a half tank of gas. If you half less than half of a tank, throw in a third of the bottle. A lot of people use Seafoam but, Seafoam was design for two stroke motors (boats, dirt bikes, etc.). Gummout is designed for car engines. The chemical Gummout uses is advanced, where Seafoam uses Petrol as a cleaner. Gummout will clean out the fuel lines and injectors. 50 miles before your next oil change, throw in the rest (half of the bottle) of the gummout into the oil fill cap. You might as well do your intake while you're doing the cleaning. Pull out the hose that connects to the upper intake boot, pour a third of the can of Gummout into a glass bowl, have someone keep the revs at 1000 to 1500 (to prevent the engine from shutting off) while you slowly suck the gummout into the intake. Once the bowl is empty, turn off the car for about 5 minutes. Turn the car back on and keep the revs at 2000 - 2500 until all smoke is gone. Warning: if you live in a residential area, you will get your neighbors upset from all the smoke your car will be pushing out. Better off going to a big parking lot and do the intake part.
Ok i clear the 2 codes ( P0116 and one for Missfire on #4) that were there. Drove the car, then P0116 came back on.
Code P0116 Coolant Temperature Sensor.
note: Thermostat was replace by previous owner.
Check the Coolant Temperature Sensor at the lower radiator hose.
What? ... hold on here , temp gauge always in red? This changes the focus of our diagnostics. Does the engine overheat?, lose coolant?, does the gauge start in the blue and slowly rise to the red in unison with the engine warming up? Maybe you better start at the beginning, not where you just disconnected the battery for a week.
In the process of troubleshoot a vacuum leak i found the problem to my gauge jumping to red.
While doing a smoke test, i placed a mirror beyond the intake am what i see is the temperature sensor unplugged..and the intake lil loose missing nuts..
So i will be removing the intake and clean things up, replace all that need to be replace while am in here. Hope this fix my issues
removed the intake, replaced the gaskets, oil filter housing gasket, replaced the coolant hoses, replaced the oil line. cleaned everything up.
Plugged in the Temperature sensor located below the intake and that fixed the temperature gauge going to red issue.
Now the can run rough with the mass airflow sensor plugged in. If I unplug it the car runs good.
Would there be a vaccum leak or bad MAF sensor?
So it was the MAF. Replaced it with a used one and all works again.
Now here and there I get check engine light on with code P1421 and P1423 for Secondary Air pump. To my understanding the secondary air pump is to burn unused fuel on cold start.
The question is can the car live without it? Will not having it operating cause other issues? This unit is expensive
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