E36 302 Swapped Cars Please Help!!!!! Radiator Piping headache!

**mnessari** · 09-25-2016, 02:38 PM

Going with a 302 swap in my 95 M3, I know, I know, flame me for doing it to an M3, but I am stuck! I saw arathbone's build and he has his radiator further away from front dress of the motor, but I am keeping A/C and P/S so with the condenser up front I'd rather not go that route just yet unless I am out of options.. So the issue I am having is my upper radiator inlet is uncomfortably close to my alternator, I am running a 302 with complete explorer accessories. What did you guys do? I want to take my beast out, work its kinks, then go forced induction!

**StolenFox** · 09-25-2016, 08:09 PM

There are a lot of smart people on this board who could possibly help if they could see what you've described. How about posting a photo?

S.F.

**rprbeantown** · 09-25-2016, 08:10 PM

My upper radiator hose has a 1/4 inch clearance around the alternator pulley. If you're using poly or solid motor mounts the motor won't move.

**unnatrl** · 09-26-2016, 12:10 AM

Post some photos. Show us multiple views (close ups and overall shots of the engine bay in the general area). I've dealt with this on my swaps every time. Hopefully my trial and error in regard to different ideas will be of some help.

**mnessari** · 09-26-2016, 05:58 PM

1.PNG 2.PNGSo sorry, the wife took the pics and they are not even helpful, will have more later.

**StolenFox** · 09-26-2016, 08:17 PM

Remove the radiator and take it to a qualified aluminum welder with the request that he cut free the inlet and re-weld it @ 45 degrees inboard. It sounds major but a good tig welder will make short work of it and you will be much happier win the long run. Check my build thread for my aluminum radiator modifications.

S.F.

**unnatrl** · 09-27-2016, 10:56 AM

Originally Posted by StolenFox

Remove the radiator and take it to a qualified aluminum welder with the request that he cut free the inlet and re-weld it @ 45 degrees inboard. It sounds major but a good tig welder will make short work of it and you will be much happier win the long run. Check my build thread for my aluminum radiator modifications.

S.F.

I was going to suggest a short radius 90 degree. Either one will work. It shouldn't cost a whole lot to have this done.

**mnessari** · 09-27-2016, 06:17 PM

I mean at this point, either I do that or get rid of a/c for the swap. Maybe a radiator with inlet and outlet on same side

**unnatrl** · 09-27-2016, 06:45 PM

You could do the dual pass radiator. I have one in my E39 swap, it works well. Our suggestions were aimed at solving the problem with the least amount of $. I wouldn't hesitate for a second to have the current radiator modified as previously suggested. It will also make hose selection less of a hassle with 1 less bend (at least 1 less required on the hose).

**arathbone** · 09-27-2016, 08:25 PM

Glad you have used my build as a reference. I ran ac and ps in both the e30 and e36. I just changed my setup and also went with a different radiator, running a mishimoto radiator and a derale fan/shroud combo. Hope the pictures help you out.

**jalopi** · 09-27-2016, 11:19 PM

I made a bracket to flip my alternator and ran a straight neck thermostat housing to get the following hose routing

**mnessari** · 09-28-2016, 01:56 AM

Man, thank you all as you have all been of great help. Working 12 hr shifts are not allowing me to touch the car right now but I will put up pics once I put in some work.

**pbonsalb** · 09-28-2016, 08:29 AM

Use wider or narrower or taller or shorter radiator, or mount differently in the frame rails or cut and weld and locate the inlet differently. Keep the ac. You will use and enjoy the car more if it is comfortable.

**Laminar** · 09-29-2016, 03:59 PM

'97 M3 with Explorer setup:

I have this radiator saved on eBay - the inlet and outlet are on the correct side for the Explorer setup and I think it's sized right (measure to be sure).

Running the stock radiator and a 180 degree thermostat the engine holds 208 degrees on the highway in 96 degree weather. I'm running a Volvo electric pusher fan that keeps it below 200 degrees in town.

I use a couple of zip ties to keep the hoses out of the pulleys.

**ponchiz318** · 10-04-2016, 06:00 AM

I too did the 302 swap in my M3. This section of bfc will definitely not judge you.
Anyway, my problem was the radiator neck hitting the alternator pulley. I took it to a radiator shop and they relocated the inlet pipe to the side of the radiator with a 90° elbow going upwards. I haven't taken a picture of it yet. It's not pretty but it's functional.

This gives you an idea of how I'm planning on running the hose.

The radiator was a eBay special. Came with 16" fan as well, rated to 3000cfm. Not bad for 150$

By the way, my engine, transmission, and front accessories are from a sn95. Therefore my engine is a little more forward towards the radiator support due to the bell housing size. The oil pan hump is directly over the crossmember.

**Joh** · 02-07-2017, 09:07 PM

When i went to install a blower, i ran into the issue of the charger hitting the radiator inlet as well. I relocated the alternator to the drivers side. I am planning on installing a griffen GRI-CU-59182-X in the very near future. It is narrower and has the water in connection on the other side.

**Thorsteinarg** · 11-27-2017, 03:41 PM

Originally Posted by jalopi

I made a bracket to flip my alternator and ran a straight neck thermostat housing to get the following hose routing

Sorry for bumping this old thread, but I have been searching everywhere for a straight neck thermostat housing with no luck, none of the ones I have found have the extra water outlet for the thermostat bypass. Do you have a part number on this housing? Hoping you have the part number/website stashed somewhere, as my setup did not work, but this is a solution to my problem.
Thanks!