New Member...and yes, yet another no start thread.

[NoVaE46]

Before you guys beat me up let me introduce myself. My name is Zach, currently reside in Northern Virginia, and I just picked up my first BMW (2000 328i) two weeks ago. I had always thought my entry into the Bimmer world would be via an E30 but when I saw this E46 I fell in love.
https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/57e66f08...20_230203.jpg?
https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/57e66f34...19_092603.jpg?



Anyways, on Wednesday I moved my car over two parking spots at my townhouse before I went to bed. The reason is unimportant. The next day I go to the car to head to the gym and it would not start. As a car enthusiast always looking from the outside into the BMW world I knew this day would come once I purchased my own.

Long story short, this is what I have already done:

Replaced Fuel Pump
Checked fuel pump fuse
Checked fuel pump relay by switching with known working relay of same kind.
Verified fuel pressure at schrader valve
Checked spark-didnt see any, but I could possibly be retarded.

I bought a new crank sensor but I can not seem to get the old one out. My 5mm hex socket stripped out the one bolt holding this stupid sensor in and I can't figure out how to remove it. Let me explain as to why I feel it is the crank sensor....when cranking the car, I do not get the 150-200rpm reading on my tach that I normally get. And when the crank sensor goes bad, you get no ignition, correct? This would explain the no spark issue.

Also, I have not check compression but the first thing I did when all of this happened was put 10cc of oil in each cylinder as I had read that if you already have a rich running issue and you cut the car on for a short period of time (i.e. to move parking spaces) you could wash out the cylinders.

Thanks for any and all help guys.

[MarcoZandrini]

Ok, when you say the engine won't start, do you mean the engine cranks but won't run on its own? Good job testing the fuel delivery system.

The first step in diagnosing a problem is to read the codes. Huh, the SES light isn't on!!?!! The SES/CEL light is on only when the code(s) is/are emissions related. So, borrow a code reader and scan the engine computer. That should give you an idea as to the problem.

[NoVaE46]

Ok, when you say the engine won't start, do you mean the engine cranks but won't run on its own? Good job testing the fuel delivery system.

The first step in diagnosing a problem is to read the codes. Huh, the SES light isn't on!!?!! The SES/CEL light is on only when the code(s) is/are emissions related. So, borrow a code reader and scan the engine computer. That should give you an idea as to the problem.

Correct, engine will crank/turnover, but not fire up/start. I have a code reader, same 2 codes I have had the entire time I have had the car (P0301-Cyl1 Misfire, P0443 Evap Purge Control Valve Circuit).
Nothing as far as I'm concerned that should prevent the car from starting. In fact my neighbor has the same misfire code on his E46 and he has no issues starting.

[legoman67]

I bought a new crank sensor but I can not seem to get the old one out. My 5mm hex socket stripped out the one bolt holding this stupid sensor in and I can't figure out how to remove it. Let me explain as to why I feel it is the crank sensor....when cranking the car, I do not get the 150-200rpm reading on my tach that I normally get. And when the crank sensor goes bad, you get no ignition, correct? This would explain the no spark issue.

get yourself a metric set of these bolt extractors. I use them all time on rounded out allen bolts(clutch pressure plate bolts most commonly).

[NoVaE46]

get yourself a metric set of these bolt extractors. I use them all time on rounded out allen bolts(clutch pressure plate bolts most commonly).

I'll have to try and find a set local today. Thanks.

[ColtonBH]

I had a similar problem, although i for sure had spark. It was the idle control valve stuck shut, required taking off the intake system and half a can of carb cleaner to fix.

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[NoVaE46]

Discovered that the 20amp fuse under the hood is blowing everytime I go to start the car. Put a 30amp fuse in and expectedly I burned a wire. Not sure if it was burnt or grounding out prior to fuse blowing, so now i need to replace this harness and start testing. Can someone PLEASE tell me what this harness is for?


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[legoman67]

Thats one of the body connections from the engine management. The 3 main items on that circuit are the fuel pump, AC Compressor, and Secondary Air Pump.

[NoVaE46]

Thats one of the body connections from the engine management. The 3 main items on that circuit are the fuel pump, AC Compressor, and Secondary Air Pump.

Since im getting this code could it be safe to assume its the secondary pump?



Also, after I read the code this morning and I took the key out of the ignition all of my stuff remained on until I unplugged that harness with the burn wires and waited 10 seconds