S54 in E36 M3, my turn

[M52 POWER!]

Do you mean the crossmember, part 23702227892? It does look like most of the US online vendors say it is no longer available. UUC has a really high price but says it is in stock - http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/europ...892-p1836.aspx

I literally ordered that part ~8 months ago through my stealer and somehow it came in no issues 1 week later . It was only like $28 too!

[gurky325]

I literally ordered that part ~8 months ago through my stealer and somehow it came in no issues 1 week later . It was only like $28 too!

I ordered it from UUC they are carrying the oe one of course it was 75 dollars. I went to the dealer to pick up some other parts I had ordered and was asking the parts manager about it. He said his system shows 1200 of them in europe but they wont ship them to us he made three requests. So I have that solved but ran into another issue I had a Z3M (S54) left engine support bracket ordered he told me it was on back order. When I picked up the other parts I asked about it and he told me my cost was 750 dollars. My ETK shows a cost of 80 dollars. I told him that can't be right, sure enough rt side 79 dollars left side 750....WHAT! Soooo I cancelled that part. Lucky for me it was backordered or I would have been stuck paying for it since it was special order. But what bracket do I use on the left side what is everybody using.

[brokeazz]

I used the arms from my S52

[gurky325]

Thanks that's what I'll use.

[mitch500]

Thanks that's what I'll use.

But you will have to make a bracket to support the intake manifold. I'm at this point and trying to come up with something....

Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

[gurky325]

Yea that part sucks. I'm also having a problem getting the tranny support bracket. I ordered it from UUC because they said it was in stock. Turns out they don't and gave an eta of 3-4 weeks. Has anyone found another source for these. Turner and ECS both sell them with a shipping date of 1/09. I found one on ebay but tried to order and came back that seller won't ship to usa. I sent them a message hoping for mercy but so far no response.

Meanwhile my engine and tranny are sitting waiting for this stupid part.

[PITT M3 RR]

Yea that part sucks. I'm also having a problem getting the tranny support bracket. I ordered it from UUC because they said it was in stock. Turns out they don't and gave an eta of 3-4 weeks. Has anyone found another source for these. Turner and ECS both sell them with a shipping date of 1/09. I found one on ebay but tried to order and came back that seller won't ship to usa. I sent them a message hoping for mercy but so far no response.

Meanwhile my engine and tranny are sitting waiting for this stupid part.

go on ebay.uk or ebay.de, email them about US shipping, that's where I got one for like $27.00 when I was going to do E46M 6 speed swap

[TH3 Shifty]

Update, wiring is moving along, slowly. Bought a new MAF from FCPEuro, and with the help of PITT M3 I got a new MAF 3.5” holder to help make a new intake

88E9E98A-C667-48CF-A855-E96CD4B6508E.jpg

[PITT M3 RR]

Update, wiring is moving along, slowly. Bought a new MAF from FCPEuro, and with the help of PITT M3 I got a new MAF 3.5” holder to help make a new intake

88E9E98A-C667-48CF-A855-E96CD4B6508E.jpg

Shifty there are also 3.5 to 4 inch silicone reducers at a 45 degree angle for like 8$ on eBay. I have one of those here too. It’ll probably help turn down to grab the air from the opening just under the headlight there.

[TH3 Shifty]

Good call, forgot about that. Last time with the s52 I was using a 3” system with a cone filter behind the fog light area. But I don’t run fog lights, I used the deletes, I put 2 holes in the delete for air for the filter. Might do it again for this engine too

[PITT M3 RR]

Good call, forgot about that. Last time with the s52 I was using a 3” system with a cone filter behind the fog light area. But I don’t run fog lights, I used the deletes, I put 2 holes in the delete for air for the filter. Might do it again for this engine too

I think thats the best option. The reason the K & N loses powern is def the IATs. I’m sure it flows better, but it pulls hot ass air in.( my logs prove that) If you can get this 3.5” hfm to open to 4” and pull air just from that fender well area, I think you’ll see a gain nearing the eventuri for sure.

I got this too - specter 4” in/out in-line filter (5” canister). Plan is to have a velocity stack on the end down in the area behind the fog. It’ll be a decent set up I think, relatively short, good diameter and cool air charge.

SPT9832.jpg SPT9832a.jpg

[TH3 Shifty]

wow that's and interesting intake ... yeah i just ordered the rest of the intake system, aluminum piping and silicone couplers.. worked on the wiring tonight.. yeah im that guy who shoved the harness into the DME cubby.. i seriously think my swap harness was made wrong, too many criss cross wires all over the place to be coherent and i dont have the nerve to cut all those black wires and have them be right..

[PITT M3 RR]

wow that's and interesting intake ... yeah i just ordered the rest of the intake system, aluminum piping and silicone couplers.. worked on the wiring tonight.. yeah im that guy who shoved the harness into the DME cubby.. i seriously think my swap harness was made wrong, too many criss cross wires all over the place to be coherent and i dont have the nerve to cut all those black wires and have them be right..

Thata just the way he makes it - remember my thread? I did the wiring 3 times before I was “satisfied”. I still have plans to go in one more time and finalize it all as one harness together. By the time I was done I added in the diagnostic plug the sport light and the gauges separately. If you mounted to the ceiling like M 52, I think you’re fine pushing it all in the cubby.

[TH3 Shifty]

is there a reason to mount it to the ceiling to the cubby? i found it easy to push the wiring and relays in there on top on the DME as theres more room up into the cubby than i thought..

[M52 POWER!]

is there a reason to mount it to the ceiling to the cubby? i found it easy to push the wiring and relays in there on top on the DME as theres more room up into the cubby than i thought..

It pushes the DME toward the center of the car where it's actually completely out of the way of the entire DME compartment leaving even more room to use for wire shoving

[mitch500]

I just pushed my DME as far back as possible then started gently cramming all the wires in the cubby. Also my harness adaptors wires were criss crossed all over.


How did you guys get the electronic gas pedal connector into the cabin?

[TH3 Shifty]

Ok so ran into a small issue. Looks like my fuse box positive wire was sold off with my s52 and currently I don’t have a wire going from the fuse box to the B+ terminal. Either I make one or try to find a used one. Anyone know the correct size wire I need?

Also so for you guys using Andrews harness, there are 2 black wires labeled “constant 12v”, are you sending them to the B+ terminal, if so which post are you using?

[M52 POWER!]

Ok so ran into a small issue. Looks like my fuse box positive wire was sold off with my s52 and currently I don’t have a wire going from the fuse box to the B+ terminal. Either I make one or try to find a used one. Anyone know the correct size wire I need?

Also so for you guys using Andrews harness, there are 2 black wires labeled “constant 12v”, are you sending them to the B+ terminal, if so which post are you using?

90% positive it's 6AWG wire.

Constant +12V is the B+ terminal that's fed by the low gauge wire, not the one directly from the battery.

[M52 POWER!]

How did you guys get the electronic gas pedal connector into the cabin?

This is one of the big gripes I have with Andrews harness... So you actually need to label each wire 1-6 (because all 6 are black!) and then depin all the contacts carefully, bundle them up and then pass them through your firewall hole, then reinstall them. I recommend "retensioning' the little keeper springs on each contact as depinning them usually bends/weakens them a bit.

Hopefully you've depinned little connectors before as it's a bit of an acquired skill!

[mitch500]

This is one of the big gripes I have with Andrews harness... So you actually need to label each wire 1-6 (because all 6 are black!) and then depin all the contacts carefully, bundle them up and then pass them through your firewall hole, then reinstall them. I recommend "retensioning' the little keeper springs on each contact as depinning them usually bends/weakens them a bit.

Hopefully you've depinned little connectors before as it's a bit of an acquired skill!

Never have I de pinned a small connector like this. I emailed Andrew regarding how to de pin that plug but no response from him.

Any advice how to get them out?

[TH3 Shifty]

reguarding the peddle ... i removed the throttle cable completely.. and there was more than enough room to push that connector into the cabin.. i thought i would have had to use a hole saw, but didnt need to. so remove the entire cable assembly, remove the grommet or slit it and mine had ample room to go in..

[TH3 Shifty]

90% positive it's 6AWG wire.

Constant +12V is the B+ terminal that's fed by the low gauge wire, not the one directly from the battery.

so looking at the B+ face on... the top is for the alt wire... left bottom is the battery cable, middle bottom the smaller gauge cable.. so above the middle bottom, not on the same plate section as the main battery cable? got it...

[M52 POWER!]

so looking at the B+ face on... the top is for the alt wire... left bottom is the battery cable, middle bottom the smaller gauge cable.. so above the middle bottom, not on the same plate section as the main battery cable? got it...

Check out this pic I stole from Mitch's thread and edited....


So BLUE and GREEN denote different busbars (circuits). The connection at the bottom left blue is directly from the battery + in your trunk. This is the connection that feeds the starter motor (upper stud, labeled #3 in this pic), and the #1 connection goes to your main fuse box in the drivers side of engine bay (the cable I think is 6AWG).

Bottom right in GREEN has a fused connection from battery (I think 80A?) and the upper GREEN is meant to power your DME or the "12V constant" wires on Andrews harness.

[TH3 Shifty]

perfect.. thank you..guess im going to have to make my wire for the fuse box

[TH3 Shifty]

As it sits now
981B0FB7-B2AD-4A91-89D4-97960027A22F.jpg