S54 swap DME flashing - $100
S54 swap CAN interface board (for proper A/C & check engine light) - $275
e36 SAP sim/secondary air pump simulator: $75 - standard or $170 - plug & play
e36 post-cat O2 sims: $115 shipped, plug & play
I wasnt sure what he was doing, just going to say if he did, make sure to angle the thread correctly so you can access it without having to remove any items! And Did you mean the S52 unit can replace the e46 unit it the s54 coolant pipe? Physically, same thread pitch etc?
And im not sure of the thread pitch of the engine Arm holes, all 13mm heads though. Your guy will have it forsure.
its going to be so sweet to essentially have a new, full rebuild. Good stuff!
Smart move doing the WPC yourself. Not too sure where the guys on M3F think they're offering a service by upcharging over $100 for it.
I did mains, rods, cam followers, 288/280 cams, and piston pins. Almost sent my crank to him as well, but I felt was going overkill for just a daily driver. All the same item cryo treated as well, including timing and oil chains.
I simply wired a S52 coolant temp sensor into the drain plug location of the S54 near the accumulator. Would read the lower range of engine temps surrounding the cylinder head, but I tracked the car and never had any issues.
Past Builds:
S54 E36 Compact Build|Thread|IG|@_goldfinger|
Current Fleet:
Z4 M Coupe - Black Sapphire Metallic over Black
The S52/M52 dual sensor works fine in place of the S54 sensor, just wire it like this:
sensor pin 1 > X20 pin 12 > cluster pin 18
sensor pin 2 > X20 pin 11 > cluster pin 17
sensor pin 3 > MSS54 X60003 pin 24 (existing temp sensor brown/red wire)
sensor pin 4 > MSS54 X60003 pin 25 (existing temp sensor brown wire)
If you need the connector it is p/n 12521703571, pins are 12521436206 (4x), seals are 12521748973 (4x). I happen to have a bunch of them on hand, will sell for $20 including shipping.
Last edited by gpeterson; 12-01-2016 at 10:40 AM.
S54 swap DME flashing - $100
S54 swap CAN interface board (for proper A/C & check engine light) - $275
e36 SAP sim/secondary air pump simulator: $75 - standard or $170 - plug & play
e36 post-cat O2 sims: $115 shipped, plug & play
Update: Wednesday I dropped off the new crank at the machine shop, getting a polish and balance the rods. Still need to get main bearings but I pretty much have what I need to finish the engine build once I get those back
98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
S54 swap CSL
Update:
so we finally figured out the crank. Had to be cut down .25mm on both the mains and the rod journals ... done
ordered new +.25mm main bearings from ECStuning, should be here next week ... done
ordered new BMW +.25mm Rod bearings from FCPEuro, .... done
once those come in, it's off to WPC to treat them
machine shop is balancing the rods. Block is done and waiting on the stand. Rings are ready to be installed. Tons of gaskets and essentials waiting.
just did the Biesan anti-rattle, oil pump disk, and seal kits on the VANOS.... done
sent off the injectors for a rebuild, arrived back yesterday ....done
pics to come, hate the waiting game but oh well
98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
S54 swap CSL
Have you run the numbers yourself? They're not upcharging $100. Current groups buy price is $324. If you try buying bearings yourself, they're $26.43 a piece (bmw-oem-parts.com -- cheapest I can find, maybe you know better). So that makes the bearings alone $317. Normally WPC treatment w/ volume discount is $5 per half-bearing. So I'm not seeing anything near a $100 upcharge.
Last edited by TerraPhantm; 01-12-2017 at 08:02 PM.
Good to hear the plan is straightening out. Let's see those photos when you get them
actually its $4 per half bearing, so $48 plus whatever shipping cost.. thats what i was quoted from WPC themselves...
the +.25mm bearings were $323 ($26 per half each) for the set from FCPEuro and thats the cheapest for genuine BMW you can get.. ECSTuning were $374..
98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
S54 swap CSL
UPDATE:
Finally got all the correct bearings in
+.25mm BMW rod bearings just came in from FCP Euro. These will be dropped off at the machine shop tomorrow and hopefully i get everything back within a few days. I was told the rods were balanced already, pistons cleaned. Once all thats back, ill be sending the bearings to WPC
98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
S54 swap CSL
UPDATE:
got my crank, rods, pistons back from the machine shop. will be starting the crank install soon. Rod bearings sent off to WPC, pics to post soon
98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
S54 swap CSL
another update, need help
So i go to lay the crank in, after preping the block and laying in the bottom half main bearings and engine asymbly lube.
Starts to go in fine but #6, the thrust/guide bearing is not allowing the crank to slip past it. Gets hung up right at the top where the side of the bearing over hangs and slips between the journal, So its not even touching the freshly ground journal yet. i didnt force it or add pressure so no damage done
The bearings are Genuine BMW +.25mm oversize.. So i took a measurement with my digital calipers of the width of the overall bearing.. comes out to be 25.153.. i took a decent measurement of the crank from wall to wall of #6 and im getting 25.001mm
is it possible the machine shop just didnt take out enough of the side wall journal #6 during the regrind? i would highly doubt the bearings being out of spec
98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
S54 swap CSL
Update: finally got the crank back, got the bearings in, did the torque sequence (25nm then torque angle to 50
paint marked
next the piston rings, grant rings, checked end gap, only had to file 1 of the #2 rings. Cleaned up the pistons and installed, the oil rings are much different than stock as you can see. I would also recommend installing the pistons with a full band type of piston compressor, I tried the corrugated kind and it was a pain in the ass.
then got the rod bearings back back from WPC and new rod bolts, torque sequence x3 (30nm then torque angle 105)
[IMG][/IMG]
98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
S54 swap CSL
Solid work work dude! You will LOVE the car when it's done. How's you time frame look now? All parts in?
Oil rings
[IMG][/IMG]
- - - Updated - - -
So right now the short block is done, finishing dismantling the head so I can send it out to be cleaned, then I'll be building the heading, installing new seals and lapping the valves. I did mount the oil pump, the constant pressure valve with new seal, and the crank position sensor
- - - Updated - - -
On a side note, very important to make sure the pistons are oriented correctly. The valve reliefs are not the same for intake and exhaust. The bigger valves are the intake side and the smaller the exhaust.
Piston rings are clocked corner to corner (90*) but not over the wrist pin. I used the picture from pelican parts ring install on a s54
98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
S54 swap CSL
all mechanical parts are here... i still need the Z3M S54 engine harness... the harness adaptor from the guy on the other board.. i need to get a set of Euro headers... a section 1 and 2..
next main priority is to finish the head disassembly.. get that out to the machine shop.. get it back, reassemble, complete the long block...
THEN, yank the stock engine... a lot to do.. might not make it to Bimmerfest West... but ill make the SoCal Euro in San Diego in September..
really want to have the engine at least in the car before May, gets super hot out here in UT
98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
S54 swap CSL
Awesome, solid plan. Hope it carries out with no issues! So what clutch / trans setup are you going to end up with?
probably whats currently on my car now.. F1 racing 14lb chromolly flywheel, stage 2 clutch.. i will probably replace the clutch since its been 40k miles... i'll go with the stage 3 or 4 F1. the best mod i ever did to that S52 was the lightweight fly wheel.. no chatter using the grease mix that UUC recommended.
after the initial DME work to get it to start and run.. hoping to get a TTFS tune for the headers and exhaust work
98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
S54 swap CSL
Nice set up. I have the 8.5 uuc blue FW. It chatters at times. What's the fluid mix? Also, I'm going to be experimenting with the E46M giubo. It should fit and hold the power better than the E36/M units.
Cool thanks, I'll mix it up when the time comes. Well I'm using a 328i giubo now, not As robust as the E36M3 unit and neither of those are nearly as hard or beefy as the E46M one.
my 328 unit is a new lemforder and is it's taking a beating, but I don't see how that could last long AND based on the feel, the E46M one will put the power down better.
Last edited by TH3 Shifty; 03-12-2017 at 07:03 PM.
98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
S54 swap CSL
Bookmarks