NOTE - this is a trailer park fix that won't be for everyone, but was perfect for our situation.
BMWs run in my family. My son just purchased his first car - following in my footsteps with a 1999 E36 328IS, 5-speed manual, all original. The E36 vintage seems to have a common problem with wonky door cards. They're heavy and bulky, for one thing (coupe). For another thing, they attach to the door with a clip system that uses a thin plastic skeleton that wraps around the top and sides of the panel - this skeleton is prone to becoming brittle over time, cracking and breaking. The driver's side door on his car was so loose that it would almost pop off when the door was closed. The reason is that the plastic skeleton along the top of the panel had disintegrated so badly that it was completely >gone<. This meant that it could not be pushed into the window sill clips, and instead just flapped loose. And it meant that it could not be fixed properly without replacing that plastic skeleton, which you cannot find. Also, the mounting post near the airbag had also broken off. The previous owner had tried to fix all these problems using copious amounts of glue from one of those hobby hot-glue guns! Needless to say, that was a messy disaster.
With the skeleton missing from the top, I decided we were going to have to replace the door card. But a new one costs $1,300 (leather, air bag), and would look out-of-place in a 17-year old interior. We searched the usual places for a used one in Dove Grey, but all the used ones appeared to have the same problems as the one we were trying to replace! And they were upwards of $300 each!
So, given that he has already spent the original price of the car replacing all the exterior and interior seals and gaskets, all the suspension, and lots of other bits that needed attention, we decided to stop the hemorrhaging and improvise a budget-friendly solution. What follows won't be everyone's cup of tea, but for my son who is on a budget, it was an ideal solution. This solution could be made to look better if you drilled the holes to the appropriate size and used more sophisticated flush-type fasteners like these: https://www.zoro.com/disco-flush-typ...g&gclsrc=aw.ds
At any rate, we will keep searching for a door panel replacement, but in the meantime this solution works like crazy and allows us time to find a decent replacement.
To begin, I removed the door panel using this DIY (coupe with air bags): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4HLMh4rFdLY
I then removed and replaced all the existing, white, bullet-style clips (I think there were 11, which I obtained from the local BMW dealer).
For the top part of the panel where the plastic skeleton was missing, I worked out a support system using the six existing, metal window-sill clips already on the car. The clips look like this:
I inserted a screwdriver into each clip in order to pry the tab out, like this:
With these pried out the clips created a support system for the top of the door panel. I then epoxied a small piece of wood under each - I used 3/4" button-style wood plugs like this:
Before epoxying in the plugs, I used painter's tape to mark off the center of each clip. I then measured the distance from the inside window molding to the hole in the clip. In this case, a simple 1/2 inch brass gauge block worked as a template - the block and the tape markings helped me align the screws later. This picture shows an example clip that I inserted just for the photo:
Then I put some epoxy on each plug, pressed it up under the clip, set a small piece of cardboard on top (to avoid epoxying my clamp to the clip), and clamped them overnight. These pictures show the plugs set, with the cardboard removed:
Once completely set, I removed the cardboard (too much padding) and reinstalled the door panel. Holding the top in place against the window-sill, I then used my tape markings and gauge block to mark the placement of a fastener for each of the six clips. Again, holding the top in place against the sill, I drilled small pilot holes down through the hole in the center of each clip, through the wood plug. I then used standard automotive-style trim fasteners, which you can pick up at the hardware store:
I drove a fastener into each clip, and the door is tighter than new.
Granted, it doesn't look as good as new, but it holds better than new and my son loves it. Like I said, you could pretty-it up a little with flush-style automotive fasteners. And you could probably get away with just two or three of them instead of all six. Anyway, I hope this helps someone. If it's not your cup of tea, then why are you still reading this?
Oh yeah, in order to make up for the trailer-park door panel solution, we ditched that ugly-ass plastic wood-grain insert above the glove box, and made a custom one out of 1/4" bubinga.
Last edited by mystreba; 09-06-2016 at 08:37 PM.
Got it, thanks...
- Search the forum first
- Check REALOEM for part numbers
1 question. Wtf is bubinga?
I like the clip idea. Clever,, however there's a replacement product. Anyone got the link?
Im sure you can,google fund this part e36 door panel or something along those lines.
Nobody would recertify these machines after somebody screwed with them without any visibility into what they did.
HONK! HONK! Clown car coming through!
-Oakdizzle
Top door clips link
If you reply to any interesting link you can find it anytime by doing a search of your user name.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ix!-Pics-Video
Last edited by gc325is; 09-08-2016 at 09:44 PM.
LOL, thanks guys. I just ordered a set. http://fundthatpart.com/shop/bmw-e36-door-repair-kit/
Why that is not a sticky somewhere on this forum is beyond me. Never seen an E36 without this problem, and all my forum searches did not turn that link up.
So...my next DIY post will be on how to repair the leather on a Dove Grey door panel (it's actually pretty easy).
Got it, thanks...
- Search the forum first
- Check REALOEM for part numbers
What if you have the old door panels that don't have the plastic mount and only use rectangular cutouts in the old crappy door card fiberboard material to hold it to the clips? Mine have all broken completely over the years rendering it useless. Mine is a sedan, so maybe it was only the 2 doors who used the plastic support since the door cards were much longer, or is it becaus mine is a 92 and this was added to all models later?
im going to ordev2 sets but i will be using hardware to attach them to the panel.
Four door didn't have the rails.. I got scolded once for saying otherwise, bad spydey.
Nobody would recertify these machines after somebody screwed with them without any visibility into what they did.
HONK! HONK! Clown car coming through!
-Oakdizzle
On my old convertable I went to a local auto glass shop and bought a couple tubes of windshield adhesive. I used that to re attach the plastic mounts to the door panels. I used c clamps to hold them firmly over night and installed. Never had another loose door panel again.
Mike
1999 750 IL (SOLD)
1990 750 IL (SOLD)
1989 325IC (SOLD)
1995 540I (SOLD)
1999 323 (SOLD)
1998 328I 195,000 miles and counting
2017 Ford Expedition Platinum
2016 Lexus RX350 F-Sport
I need redo the upholstery anyways so use flush mounted hardware. Fill in sand lay the new leather.
So here is my experience with "Fundthatpart.com" so far. Their website indicated they had the part in stock, so I ordered a set on the 7th. My paypal account was billed for the $46 on the 7th. Since then, no emails, no updates, no product. I went to the website, but it now requires authentication for access. I emailed them two days ago and nothing so far.
Buyer beware.
Got it, thanks...
- Search the forum first
- Check REALOEM for part numbers
Sorry to hear can pay pal help refund if there is a problem?
The production seems to have moved to China now (2/15) probably injection molded.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVeawS72Dw0
Here is the ebay link
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321827342868...AIT&rmvSB=true
Last edited by gc325is; 09-18-2016 at 03:31 PM. Reason: ebay
Hi mystreba
Sorry your package wasn't shipped yet. Between the 6th and the 10th I was in Vegas for CTIA (wireless conference). I shipped all packages on monday 12th but your order got lost in the cracks for which I apologize!
I haven't receive any email from you though. Either way, let me know do you want me to ship it today or make a refund.
I do have these parts in stock. Probably around 500 more kits.
Last edited by FundThatPart; 09-17-2016 at 09:36 AM.
There is something going on with my hosting. Folks can use eBay as backup. I hope to get that resolved soon. I will send you 2 kits as I mentioned in PM.
Didn't know you had a eBay page I have been trying to order from fundthatpart.com for the last few days but was getting the authentication page.
Yes, the site was down for server migration, should be up anytime now. eBay is just for backup but a little more expensive because of fees. You can also see 100% feedback.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331627394538...84.m1555.l2649
Also
If you guys have a idea for another part that breaks and its hard to find let me know. I have a new mold order coming and could add more injection molded parts.
Last edited by FundThatPart; 09-19-2016 at 05:42 PM.
I don't use a ashtray, coin holder or even both cup holders. So a shallow area no more then an inch deep to set my phone in to keep it in place would be nice.
Anyone install these yet? I have only seen feedback on eBay but no first hand feedback from people who have installed.
I just installed one of the Fundthatpart repair kits over the weekend. Worked great!
1998 323I convertible
214,000 miles and still going strong
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