Just a quick post for now...The top is on!
Pain in the rear, I will explain in more detail later.
front struts-
next- strut mounts- ball joints- cntl arm busings
New Kenwood from Crutchfield (with harness adaptor and antennae adaptor)
I imagine some speakers in the near future.
Pioneer HU, Kenwood Amp, Polk component speakers for the front and Rockford Fosgate rear speakers.
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Installed a new Sony. Only sounds slightly better but I wanted the blue tooth for hands free.
Well I sanded some bubbled up clearcoat today, sprayed some paint (looks close) blending into original paint. Tomorrow wet sand with 2000 grit and a few coats of new HS polyurethane
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That would be Bondo glass BimmerBreaker. It is somewhat flexible (not as much as the plastic that covers the bumper) however it will not crack as easily as regular Bondo. If you add in the fact that I actually take care when approaching convenience store curbs, I should be fine...lol
I am a true believer in the "DDDAS" rule. clue: first two words are "Don't" & "Do"
Last edited by Artofkicking; 04-09-2017 at 10:45 PM.
Kenwood KAC-3004. I did a lot of research and found some good reviews and YouTube videos where they tested its performance. They also make a mono version to power a sub in the same form factor. Actual dimensions are 6-1/2" x 3-7/8" x 1-3/4". My plan is to use it to power front components and a sub. There will be plenty of room for the component crossovers in the original amp location. I'm also planing on using the amp mounting bracket too.
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Ceramic coating plus Dyno shield for hood, bumper and mirrors
Already fixed the glovebox sag. Just bought a SS Clutch Line for the M to fix the irritatingly stiff shifting after the car is warm.
Cooper
'00 Alpine III M Roadster (2017-Present)
'02 Topaz 3.0 (2009-2020)
'97 Montreal 1.9 (2005-2009)
Replaced the ccv hoses and oil separator yesterday.
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Just bought a Hard Dog roll bar, and a NOS power top assembly because I checked the piston tonight and it's definitely leaky.
New car, first oil change! Bought 0w-40 mobile 1 and Mann filter based on information found in this forum. Also picked up an air filter and a magnetic drain plug, figure it can't hurt.
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Today (well yesterday now) Repaired my alternator...Clean brushes and stator plus replace diode (10 cents). Output is back
Replaced upper radiator hose...reused plastic "quick connect" on new Daygo upper. Also repaired the little overflow plastis tube. (I'm going to custom a stainless (no copper...the Aluminum radiator and the copper in same water will EAT AT THE ALUMINUM!)
Installed new Kenwood Excelon KDC-X301 https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KDC...mnews=14207646
Cooling system refresh with new pump, rad, oil cooler, expansion tank, and all tubes/hoses. Also installed the Bimmerworld Oil Cooler Thermostat Diverter Valve to flow more oil through the cooler. Hopefully I can now do a summer track session without running the heater.
2001 Steel Gray MCoupe - 147,000 miles and owned since new. MCS 2WNR suspension, Hotchkiss swaybar, poly bushings all around, cat delete headers with custom tune, 3.73 LSD, and Clownshoe Motorsports rear subframe reinforcement.
2014 Porsche Cayman S / 2022 BMW X3M Competition / 2020 Ram Rebel
Not today, but over the past few months I've been accumulating a ton of parts for a Spring project:
-18" BBS RGR forged wheels (18x8.5 et38; 18/10 et25) w/ Continental ExtremeContact DW tires (245/35/R18; 275/40/R18)
-Apex 75mm/95mm wheel studs
-Gorilla wheel locks
-Vintage BMW Motorsport Roundels
-Phillips HIR2 9112 bulbs
-Assorted Phillips and Sylvania LED exterior and interior bulbs
-OEM BMW amber front side markers, bumper markers
-OEM BMW rear mudflaps (to match the fronts)
-Renn Kuhl oil filter cap w/ brass plugs
-Oil Change Kit
-NGK spark plugs
-Mahle Fuel Filter
-UUC braided cluck line
-Lemforder Tie Rods
-Meyle front and rear sway links, new OE front and rear sway bar brackets; waiting to buy a set of H&R swaybars
-Mason Engineering front strut bar
-Rogue Engineering RSMs
Gon' have fun this weekend!
Nice list ^
i had a forced upgrade. My battery died Tuesday
IMG_0786.jpg
For what ever the seat belt itself was either worn or chewed through on my Z3 and it needed replacing. At the local salvage there is an actual Z3 (1997) It has dried out seats but some recent replacement guides. I got those and a Belt /tensioner Assembly for $35.
Looks like this now:
Left Seat belt & guide.jpg Right Seat belt guide.jpg
Not an easy job but not too hard either. I chose to leave the seats in the car. I removed the uppers and put in the guides and then reinstalled the top covers. On the seat belt...now that was something else. For some reason there are a few people who have mentioned the "cutting" or "slitting" of the tower cap at the outside of the car. Directly below where the seat belt goes through. This is not necessary ! I will be going in there again as I found a dead speaker, left side behind seat and I'm looking at the sub area. Mine has the 2 X 4" speakers. I may install similar or change to a dual core of a larger size... Input would be appreciated here. I may start another post.
IMG_20170413_175639.jpg
Just some sexy DENSO front O2s, Meyle HD ctrl arms, and the door jamb tire pressure placard sticker.
Now my short-term fuel trims look HOT and JDM AF!
(I won't lie, I'm kind of just a sucker for DENSO products because they never do me no harm).
http://imgur.com/gVYH5ci
http://imgur.com/bsyZ60r
Those are before shots. I didn't take a picture of the after trims yet; I was itching to get all the fiberglass off my arms (haw haw haw) and immediately ran inside when I verified that the trims weren't going over about 10% total in either direction.
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