Rear brake pads and discs.
Plus a 3.0 Z3 clutch hose for my M Roadster to get over the CDV or restriction in the case of the M
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Control arm bushings, two tires, a fuel filter and six spark plugs.
It was annual inspection time.
New reskinned seats (was going to buy genuine leather skins myself and do the work, but found a good deal on professionally skinned seats w/ same skins I was going to order), Federal 595RS-RR 235/35/19's & 275/35/19's, H&R Hubcentrics will be ordered once I get an idea on thickness needed, new top (went with twillfast ii) and associated parts, scrubbed-powered-vacuumed interior carpets and replacement trunk carpets I bought (along with various car care products as I claybarred, waxed, back to black etc), MTL & MT-90 w/ plugs n gasket for trans & rear diff fluid changes, replacement stereo head unit (some dumb*ss stole face plate only lol). Ah, and a fitted bmw car cover.
Ordering new shift/ebrake boots (have new knob), trunk lifts, fluids for radiator flush, and hopefully M emblems, replacement key fob (they don't like the ocean), interior trim tidbits, floor mats pending budget.
Last edited by Velocitydreamer; 09-19-2018 at 04:00 PM.
Rear stopping gizmos for my 98 M
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Cheapo set of Federal RS-RRs to try as my track rain tires. Hard to find the Direzza StarSpecs now in the sizes needed.
2001 Steel Gray MCoupe - 147,000 miles and owned since new. MCS 2WNR suspension, Hotchkiss swaybar, poly bushings all around, cat delete headers with custom tune, 3.73 LSD, and Clownshoe Motorsports rear subframe reinforcement.
2014 Porsche Cayman S / 2022 BMW X3M Competition / 2020 Ram Rebel
Got myself two Wiper modules as my wipers only work on high. Neither worked so went off the the salvage yard and bought two different wiper storks so I can test why the Da? thing doesn't work. As it is an April 2000 2.8 Z3 can't find anywhere a relay could be on the car. Also not sure if the Module is correct. Any help would be appreciated
My poor memory tells me that the problem is often in the motor itself. I read up on it a couple of years ago, when I bought the car, but my problem just went away. I then suspected it was sticky from non-use (I'm in AZ) Not much help I know, but you said "any help ..."
This week was a great week for purchasing stuff for the shu! Just don’t tell the wife. She may not be as enthusiastic about it all...
I was able to get an OEM shift knob, A new defrost vent for the passenger side of the dash, the little m badges for the wheels, and a new m badge for the valve cover on the S54 motor!
Set of (4) DSIIs for snow tires on the Coupe...all 17x7.5.
Found (3) on Craigslist for $120, and shelled out $100 for the 4th on eBay.
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
IE subframe bushings and RE SS clutch line
Just installed a new set of bavauto ignition coils since I was getting intermittent misfires in cylinders 1 and 3. Car felt much quicker afterward. Still have to figure out my lean fuel trim in banks 1 and 2 issue. Had car smoke tested, saw nothing, changed the maf sensor after seeing the old one was dead and it helped a little but the code is still there. Car dips and surges at idle when the engine is still cold, doubt the coils will fix that but we'll see in the morning lol
Thats something that I've been thinking it probably is, so I'll do that next. Unfortunately though, despite it running much better the misfire codes came back in 1 and 3. I'm thinking maybe swapping around fuel injectors or maybe cleaning them?
You know who sells the best vanos rebuild kit?
http://www.beisansystems.com/products.html -> Double Vanos Seals Repair Kit (6-cyl)
This should be the right instructions for your car: http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm
He is the one that came up with the replacement seals first many years ago and did the engineering for better seals.
Last edited by me77; 11-10-2018 at 09:54 AM.
I thought that 50 Nm is VERY tight for those caps. Didn't snap them off, but dried the threads as good as I could to make the torque wrench as accurate as possible. If the threads were full of oil, you probably overtightened them quite a bit.
Last edited by me77; 11-12-2018 at 01:17 PM.
A "new" interior trim cover for the driver's side A pillar and "new" sill covers for where the carpet meets the weatherstripping. I don't know why I bothered with the A-pillar trim, considering that I don't even have a dashboard.
Just ordered a vanos and valve cover kit, plus 02 and cam sensors. Hoping to finally get rid of my CEL and my idle dip/surge. Considering ordering a front strut bar. Between the Dinan, Garagistic, and Stron Strut, any of you guys have opinions on whats best?
Dinan and Strong Strut are great quality (actually didn't know Garagistic made a Z3 brace), but I like the look of the SS best. If I already had some Dinan CF under the hood, I'd probably go that route. Hmm, think my Coupe needs a black SS...
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Last edited by s8ilver; 11-13-2018 at 03:04 PM.
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
I have a Dinan Chip and CAI but its also almost double the garagistic one, and that one looks pretty solid to me. I'm not sure what to do. About to do a ton of maintenance on the Z though, new motor mounts, trans mounts, flex disc, csb, vanos rebuild so I figure its a good time to get a strut bar as well. In the spring then I wanna do coils and refresh the rest of the front and rear supension and fix my saggy headliner, worn drivers seat, and shifter boot
Was installing VF engineering kit. The instructions are pretty rough, I can’t believe after all these years they supply instruction for a m52 engine, not s52.
Disconnected the ICV from manifold, immediately got stuck when I realized they gave me a threaded cap, but no tap to make the threads to plug the manifold with cap. So going for a tap tomorrow
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I bought my M Roadster a baby brother recently.
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Replaced the original oil filter housing gasket, oil pressure sensor, oil temp sensor, and vanos feed line on my 99 2.8 (130k miles). The gasket leaked like mad and since I was in there I decided to do the other stuff as a preventive measure. The original gasket was pretty brittle. I cleaned out the alternator vent as well since that was clogged with leaves for who knows how long...
Also installed koni sport shocks (new RSMs) and h&r springs.
Front refresh (LCAs, tie rods, end links, and lollipop bushings) plus the koni sports with h&r struts (with front strut reinforcement plate and bav auto camber plates) coming in the next week or so when I find time.
Last edited by sijray21; 02-05-2019 at 10:26 AM.
Finished the front suspension and front refresh plus an alignment. It drives a lot better than before.
Planning on doing the RTABs and RSFBs and possibly hiring out the Subframe reinforcement welding later in the year.
Meyle/Meyle HD refresh bits
Koni Sports
H&R Sports
BavAuto Camber plates (about - 3* on all four corners)
Installed a condor tall weighted shifter this week, replaced both front wheel hubs. Next is condor subframe riser bushings. I'll be purchasing coilovers soon once I fix my E34
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