So I posted a thread earlier on possible hydro lock, which I misunderstood what happens in that scenario. I basically started losing coolant, with no visible external leaks. I did find a little seepage at the hose connections, then eventually my radiator took a crap. All of my cooling system problems have now been addressed. (New radiator, thermostat housing, hoses, and fan clutch) I thought I was getting excessive pressure at the coolant hoses, causing these problems, but its been a couple weeks with no leaks. I'm still losing coolant though, as I need to add coolant every couple of days. There is no coolant at my dipstick, and no oil in my coolant. I did find some milky residue on my oil cap though. I'm not overheating, nor blowing smoke.
My engine now has 294k on the clock, and I did do a headgasket job almost 100k ago, when my head developed a crack and the head was fixed. My wife overheated the car about 4 or 5 months ago, when one of my TB coolant hoses took a shit. My last smog check, I barely passed, and the technician said I am burning oil. So, I'm thinking engine overhaul, or maybe engine swap? The car has alot of good things going for it, recent front end overhaul, lifetime warranty on tranny (Aamco). I'm open to any advice, as I'm thinking of picking up another e34 to drive, while I take my time addressing this car's issues. I also have an 84' 528e for use.
Time to swap in a new(er) motor. Given the mileage and issues if you want to keep the car this might be the easiest and most cost effective route.
Anyone? What is the easiest engine to swap in with the least amount of complications?
Well, I'm going to go look at another 92' m50nv engine, with only 110k. If it looks good, I'm doing a straight-forward swap. In the meantime, I started to look for another e34 to drive while I take my time fixing my 92'. Found this immaculate, one-owner, 95' arktiksgrau-metallic. Its turn-key, really don't have to do anything, but maybe some new springs and wheels. ;-)
Last edited by Mendozart; 09-20-2016 at 03:53 PM.
I did buy it. I'm still going to fix the other one, as I'm going to need a vehicle for my daughter soon. ;-)
So, I'm finally getting around to swapping in the new engine. Any tips or info would've be appreciated.
Replace ALL the hoses, belts and tensioners. Good time to do the water pump and T-sat too. Re-gasket the "new" engine unless you are sure it's not leaking.
Parts are cheap, now is the time.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
This is great advice. I replaced the motor in my e38 (M62) and did all the gaskets and timing chain job while it was outside the car. Super easy. I contemplated doing the head gaskets but my friends convinced me it wasn't needed and get the car on the road. About 30k miles later, one of the HGs failed. Took both sides apart and found the other side HG was cracked too. Instead of $50 in gaskets, I spent about $500 to check the heads, get other gaskets, etc. Talk about a PITA job, especially the position of the exhaust manifolds in that car.
Not saying you should do the HG, but it sure will be easier now than in the car, if you lean that way. With only 110,000 miles, it should be good for another 80-100k before you get into HG failure territory.
Last edited by kouks; 04-14-2017 at 08:50 PM.
02 e39 540i Sport (Son), 01 DINAN 7 (Me), 12 e70 X5 x35i (Mrs), 95 e34 525i (Daughter 2), 01 e46 325Ci vert (Daughter 1)
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Last edited by zkd; 04-21-2017 at 01:52 PM.
E34 525i Touring 1995, M52B28 LSD... fully restored.
So, I'm just about ready to pull the engine. When I was pulling my oil pan, which needed to be swapped, I accidentally broke off the very end of the windage tray. Do you think this will be a problem?
Nice going there, Brutus. Make sure no smaller fragments are ready to come off, perhaps smooth the edges and forget it.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Well, sounds like you already got it out without the trans. Easier to do with an automatic as you won't need to align the input shaft & clutch, do-able either way.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Ok, engine is out. Any tips on installing replacement engine with tranny in place?
If trans going to in the cat just lay it in nice and leveled. Set engine mounts in place, use something to prop the rear side of the engine so you can attach the trans
So, I'm swapping the last parts from my old to new engine. I went ahead and replaced main rear seal, and when I went to install the torque converter, it wouldn't go in as the bearing is different at the rear crankshaft. Any ideas?
edit: So, after doing some searching, it looks like I need to remove the pilot bearing, then install a sleeve that centers the torque converter. Any ideas on how to remove the pilot bearing?
Last edited by Mendozart; 05-05-2017 at 01:16 AM.
I've never tried it, but I've heard the "bread" method works.
Stuff pieces of bread into the hole and compact it in with an socket extension and hammer. Eventually the bread builds up behind the bearing and is pushed out, lol.
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