Dilemma / Advice

**Mendozart** · 08-31-2016, 05:46 PM

So I posted a thread earlier on possible hydro lock, which I misunderstood what happens in that scenario. I basically started losing coolant, with no visible external leaks. I did find a little seepage at the hose connections, then eventually my radiator took a crap. All of my cooling system problems have now been addressed. (New radiator, thermostat housing, hoses, and fan clutch) I thought I was getting excessive pressure at the coolant hoses, causing these problems, but its been a couple weeks with no leaks. I'm still losing coolant though, as I need to add coolant every couple of days. There is no coolant at my dipstick, and no oil in my coolant. I did find some milky residue on my oil cap though. I'm not overheating, nor blowing smoke.

My engine now has 294k on the clock, and I did do a headgasket job almost 100k ago, when my head developed a crack and the head was fixed. My wife overheated the car about 4 or 5 months ago, when one of my TB coolant hoses took a shit. My last smog check, I barely passed, and the technician said I am burning oil. So, I'm thinking engine overhaul, or maybe engine swap? The car has alot of good things going for it, recent front end overhaul, lifetime warranty on tranny (Aamco). I'm open to any advice, as I'm thinking of picking up another e34 to drive, while I take my time addressing this car's issues. I also have an 84' 528e for use.

**stilljester** · 08-31-2016, 07:36 PM

Time to swap in a new(er) motor. Given the mileage and issues if you want to keep the car this might be the easiest and most cost effective route.

**Mendozart** · 08-31-2016, 10:28 PM

Originally Posted by stilljester

Time to swap in a new(er) motor. Given the mileage and issues if you want to keep the car this might be the easiest and most cost effective route.

Should I stick with an M50, or maybe M52?

**Mendozart** · 09-05-2016, 11:12 PM

Anyone? What is the easiest engine to swap in with the least amount of complications?

**E38740iMD** · 09-05-2016, 11:21 PM

M50 for the ease of swap. Just need engine, dme, engine harness from an e34. Done

- - - Updated - - -

Oh and the right diff.

**angeleye540i** · 09-05-2016, 11:31 PM

Originally Posted by Mendozart

Anyone? What is the easiest engine to swap in with the least amount of complications?

least amount of complications will be original motor (model not unit)... Anything else is probably fairly similar and difficulty if you change from original... If you do why not buy an s54? That would be super cool

**Mendozart** · 09-20-2016, 03:51 PM

Well, I'm going to go look at another 92' m50nv engine, with only 110k. If it looks good, I'm doing a straight-forward swap. In the meantime, I started to look for another e34 to drive while I take my time fixing my 92'. Found this immaculate, one-owner, 95' arktiksgrau-metallic. Its turn-key, really don't have to do anything, but maybe some new springs and wheels. ;-)

**E38740iMD** · 09-21-2016, 12:59 AM

Well but that one and part the other one

**Mendozart** · 09-21-2016, 09:23 AM

I did buy it. I'm still going to fix the other one, as I'm going to need a vehicle for my daughter soon. ;-)

**Mendozart** · 04-14-2017, 03:19 PM

So, I'm finally getting around to swapping in the new engine. Any tips or info would've be appreciated.

**ross1** · 04-14-2017, 06:08 PM

Replace ALL the hoses, belts and tensioners. Good time to do the water pump and T-sat too. Re-gasket the "new" engine unless you are sure it's not leaking.
Parts are cheap, now is the time.

**kouks** · 04-14-2017, 08:48 PM

Originally Posted by ross1

Replace ALL the hoses, belts and tensioners. Good time to do the water pump and T-sat too. Re-gasket the "new" engine unless you are sure it's not leaking.
Parts are cheap, now is the time.

This is great advice. I replaced the motor in my e38 (M62) and did all the gaskets and timing chain job while it was outside the car. Super easy. I contemplated doing the head gaskets but my friends convinced me it wasn't needed and get the car on the road. About 30k miles later, one of the HGs failed. Took both sides apart and found the other side HG was cracked too. Instead of $50 in gaskets, I spent about $500 to check the heads, get other gaskets, etc. Talk about a PITA job, especially the position of the exhaust manifolds in that car.

Not saying you should do the HG, but it sure will be easier now than in the car, if you lean that way. With only 110,000 miles, it should be good for another 80-100k before you get into HG failure territory.

**ross1** · 04-15-2017, 07:16 AM

Originally Posted by kouks

This is great advice. I replaced the motor in my e38 (M62) and did all the gaskets and timing chain job while it was outside the car. Super easy. I contemplated doing the head gaskets but my friends convinced me it wasn't needed and get the car on the road. About 30k miles later, one of the HGs failed. Took both sides apart and found the other side HG was cracked too. Instead of $50 in gaskets, I spent about $500 to check the heads, get other gaskets, etc. Talk about a PITA job, especially the position of the exhaust manifolds in that car.

Not saying you should do the HG, but it sure will be easier now than in the car, if you lean that way. With only 110,000 miles, it should be good for another 80-100k before you get into HG failure territory.

You were unlucky. HG failures are more related to cooling system maintenance than miles. If OP's "new" engine has/had nasty coolant in it then it might be worth investigating. H gaskets are a big job either way and always lead to even more "might as well".

**zkd** · 04-15-2017, 01:15 PM

Originally Posted by Mendozart

Should I stick with an M50, or maybe M52?

I did an M52 swap (from 528i 1998) about a year ago, it's great it also has more torque same horse power tho, and no need to change any electronics. it's also 50 kg lighter.

it has been running great with no problems what so ever.

**Mendozart** · 04-18-2017, 10:07 AM

Originally Posted by ross1

Replace ALL the hoses, belts and tensioners. Good time to do the water pump and T-sat too. Re-gasket the "new" engine unless you are sure it's not leaking.
Parts are cheap, now is the time.

Alot of hoses and tensioners were just replaced on my engine. I have transferred all the good parts to the engine going in.

Originally Posted by ross1

You were unlucky. HG failures are more related to cooling system maintenance than miles. If OP's "new" engine has/had nasty coolant in it then it might be worth investigating. H gaskets are a big job either way and always lead to even more "might as well".

I just drained the block, and the coolant was nice and clean.

**Mendozart** · 04-21-2017, 01:50 PM

So, I'm just about ready to pull the engine. When I was pulling my oil pan, which needed to be swapped, I accidentally broke off the very end of the windage tray. Do you think this will be a problem?

**E38740iMD** · 04-22-2017, 09:08 PM

I'd say as long as no more parts break all is ok

**ross1** · 04-23-2017, 11:44 AM

Nice going there, Brutus. Make sure no smaller fragments are ready to come off, perhaps smooth the edges and forget it.

**Mendozart** · 04-24-2017, 03:24 PM

Originally Posted by ross1

Nice going there, Brutus. Make sure no smaller fragments are ready to come off, perhaps smooth the edges and forget it.

Yeah, I cant believe I did that. Here's probably a stupid question. Do I have to remove my tranny to swap the engine in?

**ross1** · 04-24-2017, 07:50 PM

Well, sounds like you already got it out without the trans. Easier to do with an automatic as you won't need to align the input shaft & clutch, do-able either way.

**Mendozart** · 04-25-2017, 12:30 AM

Originally Posted by ross1

Well, sounds like you already got it out without the trans. Easier to do with an automatic as you won't need to align the input shaft & clutch, do-able either way.

Actually, I've only lifted the engine to pull the pan. I haven't had anyone free to give me a hand.

**Mendozart** · 05-01-2017, 08:07 PM

Ok, engine is out. Any tips on installing replacement engine with tranny in place?

**E38740iMD** · 05-01-2017, 08:56 PM

If trans going to in the cat just lay it in nice and leveled. Set engine mounts in place, use something to prop the rear side of the engine so you can attach the trans

**Mendozart** · 05-05-2017, 01:04 AM

So, I'm swapping the last parts from my old to new engine. I went ahead and replaced main rear seal, and when I went to install the torque converter, it wouldn't go in as the bearing is different at the rear crankshaft. Any ideas?

edit: So, after doing some searching, it looks like I need to remove the pilot bearing, then install a sleeve that centers the torque converter. Any ideas on how to remove the pilot bearing?

**Sir Montalbon** · 05-05-2017, 07:39 AM

I've never tried it, but I've heard the "bread" method works.

Stuff pieces of bread into the hole and compact it in with an socket extension and hammer. Eventually the bread builds up behind the bearing and is pushed out, lol.