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Thread: BJH102's e36 Track Car Build

  1. #1
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    BJH102's e36 Track Car Build

    Well here goes. I'm sure this started out like many of you, wanting a fun toy to drive and play with. I knew I wanted another e36 and began looking for a suitable one around October 2015. After only finding beat, salvage or outrageously overpriced cars with 200K miles i had started to give up. I finally got word of a clean car that was going to be for sale, a 1994 325is with 43,000 original miles. One owner, clean title, exactly what I was looking for. The only issue being it had a CEL, rough idle and a blown out muffler. I went to check it out and was amazed at how clean it was. The CEL was for a vanos, however I had the mindset of it could be a simple fix or the car was going to need a new motor. Either way it was finally a clean chassis at a reasonable price. I bought it the next day.



    I began by replacing the Vanos solenoid and that cleared my CEL, now the problem being the car would not hold idle. After spending countless hours and days diagnosing, testing and replacing parts and having a shop look into the issue and coming up with nothing I decided it was time to just suck it up and put a different motor into it. I found a S50 with ZF trans, 3.15LSD, new cats, recently had a new clutch and flywheel installed so i jumped on it. I employed the help of two friends and got to work. We got the swap done in 14 hours start to finish. After 3 months i finally had a running car!!!!!





    I now had my sights set on July 10th for a track day at Thunder Hill. it gave me exactly 2 months to get the car road tested, new suspension, wheels, tires, brakes and cooling system bought and installed.

    I went with CSF radiator, Mishimoto expansion tank, car already had metal impeller water pump, ECS tuning radiator hoses, 16" SPAL puller fan, Ground control camber plates weight jacks and rear shock mounts, JRZ RS dampers (found used for a great price) Swift spings 12K front and 14K rear, Turner adjustable rear camber arms, Stoptech Sport pads, Centric Blank Rotors, Stoptech SS brake lines, AKG poly motor and trans mounts, UUC System U cat back exhaust, Apex ARC8's 17x9.5 ET35 with 245 40 Sumitomo HTR Z iii Tires. Here's the end result.











    I got it all installed a few weeks before my July 10th date, got a few road tests on it and away we went.

    Again with the help of a friend with a trailer we towed it up to the track for a shakedown.







    The day went off without a single issue. The car did absolutely everything I was hoping it would do! I did not push too hard but had no overheating issues or brake fade issues. The only thing that went "wrong" is the tires seem to get greasy fairly fast, but i have been told it gets better as they wear in.

    Thats all for now, next track day is 9/10 and 9/11, back up at Thunder Hill.

  2. #2
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    Any rub from the setup? Looks awfully close in the rear?
    1995 M3...Screwed

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jab31169 View Post
    Any rub from the setup? Looks awfully close in the rear?

    Other than on the lip of the bumper, none at all. I'm -2* of camber in the rear. I just spent a little bit of time rolling the inner fender so it would all clear. The fenders aren't even really pulled.

    Not sure why people seem to have an issue fitting this wheel and tire set up on an e36.

  4. #4
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    Look in the upper arch in the rear. I run a 17x9 et 42 with a 255 and I have rub in the top of the fender.
    1995 M3...Screwed

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jab31169 View Post
    Look in the upper arch in the rear. I run a 17x9 et 42 with a 255 and I have rub in the top of the fender.

    I have checked, there is no rubbing at all on my fenders. I rolled the inner fender, test fit the wheel over and over again until I was sure they would clear and not rub. I basically rolled the inner gender until it touched the outer fender. When I was doing it I would just move up about 1/4" at a time and slowly pushed out until I could just see the fender roller pushing on the outer fender then moved up again another 1/4".

    My final test was to lift the back end of the car up by each lower shock bolt and turned the wheel by hand.

    Spend some time rolling that inner fender again. You really should have any issue at all fitting those wheels.

  6. #6
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    Spent the weekend up at Thunder Hill, it was HOT. Saturday got up to 97* and Sunday was about 90*. I was able to get some solid time behind the wheel and began pushing the car just a little bit more. There are still areas where I can brake deeper and carry more corner speed but for now I am happy with where I am at. I have only driven the car about 10 times in total so I am still getting a feel for just how hard I can push it especially under braking.

    Saturday was a good day with no real issues other than a few people going off and bringing some dirt back onto the track. Sunday however was a shit show. Ten minutes into the first session of the day a car lost a wheel in turn 14 and it ended up in the middle of the track in turn 7, session red flagged. Three cars spun directly in front of me in the other two sessions, all through the day there were a lot of people going off track and the spec Miata race had a big pile up on the first lap. By the third session on Sunday I could feel myself making mistakes, the brake pedal was getting softer so I called it a weekend before I really screwed up.

    Now for some issues with the car.

    First, this only happened between turn 14 and 15 (a very bumpy right hander) my check engine light would come on but by turn 3 it had turned off again. I pulled the code and it was for O2 sensor. I wonder if anyone else has had this issue before. I'm guessing wiring from the sensor is shaking too much or bouncing and hitting the body causing the light. There was no change in how the car ran while the light came on and while it was on. I will get under the car this week and see if I can find anything obvious.

    Second, after 3 track days my brake pedal got soft with RBF600 fluid. Maybe this is normal but it seems a little soon for the pedal to get soft like it did. What brake fluid are you guys running and how long does it seem to last. Keep in mind I did not get any brake fade just the travel on the pedal got longer and softer throughout the weekend.

    Third, possibly related to the brake fluid, after each session it became increasingly hard to get my car into first and second gear, almost like the clutch was not disengaging the whole way. Again possibly due to bad fluid as I didn't have this issue after the last time I was at the track, I will try re-bleeding and adjusting the clutch stop to see if that stops this issue.

    On a positive note the car is still alive after about 200 miles on track over the weekend and the new truck towed it like a champ. Oh and the fiance came along for her first time at the track and had a blast! With an 8 month old baby at home she said she now understands the need for a cage and safety equipment.

    Only grabbed a few pictures over the weekend but here you go.







    Last edited by bjh102; 04-02-2017 at 01:13 AM.

  7. #7
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    Looks like we are heading down similar paths. I had similar brake fading issues. I just finished putting in fairly low budget brake ducts in. I'm hoping this makes a difference at VIR in a few weeks.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by wake74 View Post
    Looks like we are heading down similar paths. I had similar brake fading issues. I just finished putting in fairly low budget brake ducts in. I'm hoping this makes a difference at VIR in a few weeks.
    Let me know how it works out! I'm hoping to just bleed it all and do a weekend at Laguna Seca in November and get to the brake ducts over winter.

  9. #9
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    You're on the right path with your issues. It seems to me that everything is being cause by heat.

    I can't find any real info about the StopTech Sport Pads, so I'll just assume they are good enough for light track duty like they say on their website.

    The RBF600 is more than adequate for you. It's a good idea to bleed the brakes before every event. So I would start there for the brakes.

    As far as the shifting is concerned, I'd change the trans fluid. No matter what car you're playing with, if the trans fluid starts getting really hot, the shifting goes to crap. The older the fluid, the easier it is to overheat.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheKolton View Post
    You're on the right path with your issues. It seems to me that everything is being cause by heat.

    I can't find any real info about the StopTech Sport Pads, so I'll just assume they are good enough for light track duty like they say on their website.

    The RBF600 is more than adequate for you. It's a good idea to bleed the brakes before every event. So I would start there for the brakes.

    As far as the shifting is concerned, I'd change the trans fluid. No matter what car you're playing with, if the trans fluid starts getting really hot, the shifting goes to crap. The older the fluid, the easier it is to overheat.

    Yeah I figured heat was the big factor in all of this. The pads seem to be just fine for now. They can brake later than I can that's for sure. I know I should have bled the brakes I was just hoping it would last a little longer than it did. Now I know haha.

    The shifting makes sense but the fluid is brand new. Less than 700 miles on it. I drove the car on Monday and had no issues with shifting, so maybe you are right it just overheated the fluid. I'll change it out and bleed the clutch system before the next event.

    My major concern is the CEL. I need to get under there this weekend and take a look at the O2 sensor.

  11. #11
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    Good thread. I'm going for a very similar setup with my M for right now. Just bought the exact same wheels actually. Haha What viscosity trans fluid are you running, different from stock?

  12. #12
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    yeah thunderhill. my first official track day with NASA in 2012. great circuit. 3-4 times there in my '12 GTI. I left cali right before the long course opened.
    its not hard on brakes mostly sweepers after straights, laguna will be much harder on brakes watch the pedal there. for a 2 day event, bleeding after 1st day may be better.
    i would have loved my e36 on those circuits, the GTI just wanted to roll on to the roof.
    are the M50 O2's different from the S50?
    i get a O2 CEL after idles sometimes but after going again it goes out. I'm catless figure it gets rich idle readings or something.
    do you have some heavier trans fluid that likes high temp?
    for brakes temps maybe cut the rotor dust cover off, if your planning for vents soon anyways.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by derger View Post
    Good thread. I'm going for a very similar setup with my M for right now. Just bought the exact same wheels actually. Haha What viscosity trans fluid are you running, different from stock?
    Very nice! Have you stated a build thread yet? I keep reading over other people's and getting ideas for what to do.

    What size tires are you going to run?

    Running Redline MTL. Don't know what viscosity it is.

    Quote Originally Posted by poweredbyg60 View Post
    yeah thunderhill. my first official track day with NASA in 2012. great circuit. 3-4 times there in my '12 GTI. I left cali right before the long course opened.
    its not hard on brakes mostly sweepers after straights, laguna will be much harder on brakes watch the pedal there. for a 2 day event, bleeding after 1st day may be better.
    i would have loved my e36 on those circuits, the GTI just wanted to roll on to the roof.
    are the M50 O2's different from the S50?
    i get a O2 CEL after idles sometimes but after going again it goes out. I'm catless figure it gets rich idle readings or something.
    do you have some heavier trans fluid that likes high temp?
    for brakes temps maybe cut the rotor dust cover off, if your planning for vents soon anyways.
    Yeah there's just a few very heavy braking zones. Turn 1, 10, 14. Long straights into slower corners. Especially 10 and 14. Turn 1 just seems worse as I'm doing about 120 when I hit the brakes.

    Honestly I think the trans issue was more clutch issue than the actual trans fluid heating up. I forgot to mention I have a clutch stop in there and there is very little travel before it engages. I'll try adjusting that in some more.

    When I swapped the s50 I took the cats and O2 sensor as well. Same sensor tho as far as I know. Mine does the same thing at idle. I can't figure out why. I should probably check for vacuum leaks as well.

    The brakes I'm just going to bleed and get through the weekend at Laguna Seca. Over winter the bushings will get done along with brake ducting.

  14. #14
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    Great build and thread!

    On the shifting issue i would try replacing your rubber most likely original clutch line to a stainless cable.
    I would have this issue on the street after an hour or so of driving when I would come to a light or a stop sign shifting into 1st and then into 2nd was really hard but only when the car was hot. From what i read the rubber line gets old and expands a lot in turn the pressure you are applying isn't fully exerted on the clutch fork its lost in the expanding line.
    I swapped to a stainless line and I havent had the issue since.

    Hope that helps and keep having a blast!

  15. #15
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    Thanks! I'm running 225/45's on mine, haven't received the wheels or tires yet though. And after reading around a bit i decided to pick up Redline D4ATF for my trans. Once the trans is back in the car i can let you know how it feels and how it deals with heat if you like. I have a slight second gear grind when hot, hoping it will help resolve that a bit.

  16. #16
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    Saw your car at the Jul 10 TH event, really clean car! Was there in an E36 estoril sedan.
    98 M3/4 x 2

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by SAL's M3 View Post
    Great build and thread!

    On the shifting issue i would try replacing your rubber most likely original clutch line to a stainless cable.
    I would have this issue on the street after an hour or so of driving when I would come to a light or a stop sign shifting into 1st and then into 2nd was really hard but only when the car was hot. From what i read the rubber line gets old and expands a lot in turn the pressure you are applying isn't fully exerted on the clutch fork its lost in the expanding line.
    I swapped to a stainless line and I havent had the issue since.

    Hope that helps and keep having a blast!
    I never even thought about that! I'll be adding that to the list of upgrades over winter. Thanks for pointing it out. I should have just done that when the engine was out. I have a feeling it's not going to be too fun.

    Quote Originally Posted by derger View Post
    Thanks! I'm running 225/45's on mine, haven't received the wheels or tires yet though. And after reading around a bit i decided to pick up Redline D4ATF for my trans. Once the trans is back in the car i can let you know how it feels and how it deals with heat if you like. I have a slight second gear grind when hot, hoping it will help resolve that a bit.
    How come only 225's??

    Yes absolutely let me know how it works out. If there is better fluid to run I want to know about it.

    Quote Originally Posted by scribbleman View Post
    Saw your car at the Jul 10 TH event, really clean car! Was there in an E36 estoril sedan.
    Thank you! Are you doing Laguna November 26 and 27?? If you see me out there again come stop by. I need to start walking around the pits some more at these events and talking with people and looking at their cars.

  18. #18
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    I run my car a bit lower than normal, not ridiculous, but about 3/4"-1" lower than what your car is at and I don't want to rub terribly. I drove it last night (only about 10 miles) but it didn't grind into second once. I'll update after this weekend though when I really put the car to work.

  19. #19
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    A little update. Im up in the air about Laguna next month, I think I want to get a few things with the car sorted out before another track event. We will see tho I may sign up last minute and do one day out there.

    Now after doing some thinking i have set myself a budget of $2500 for mods over winter.

    Heres my list.
    - Full bushings refresh and chassis reinforcements
    - Hard Motorsport brake ducting
    - M3 front bumper
    - SSI Stealth underpanel
    - SS clutch line
    - Tow hooks
    - Fog light block offs
    - S2R carbon sunroof panel
    - Complete fluid flush along with any other worn out parts

    I have already started ordering some of the parts and most have already been installed. Yesterday I got the M front bumper, SSI underpanel, partial brake ducting (still waiting on backing plates from Hard Motorsports) installed before it started to rain. As i am not running any fender liners i needed to make some bracing for the rear of the underpanel, I still wanted to make the front bumper as easily removable as possible but still strong enough to hold the panel in place. I made two brackets that dropped down from the frame rail right behind the brake ducting bracket and that goes around the brake ducting itself, each side of the panel is held on with two M6 bolts. Simple but incredibly sturdy yet still easy to remove and install. (I was able to do it in the dark and rain last night). Once my backing plates get here I will final install the brake ducting, bleed the brakes and install the new clutch line. Anyways on to some pictures.







    here you can see the bracket coming down holding the rear of the underpanel in place.



  20. #20
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    Been a long time with no update. Kids first birthday, family came into town for a month, fiancé went back to work life has been hectic. I finally got around to working on the car over the last few weeks. Here's the List of upgrades I ended up doing.

    Akg 75d fcab, rtab and diff bushings.
    Turner aluminum subframe bushings.
    Full m3 brake and trailing arm conversion
    Rtab, rear subframe and front subframe reinforcements.
    Hard Motorsport brake ducting.
    S2r carbon sunroof delete panel.
    Bimmerworld ss clutch line.
    Bimmerworld power steering kit.
    Turner stage 1.5 kit.
    Performance friction 08 pads.
    Full fluid flush.
    Getting alignment done this week.

    Now this is far more than I had originally planned. However once I finally got the backing plates from hard Motorsports I found out they wouldn't fit the non m brake rotors. Instead of modifying them to fit I figured all those parts needed to come off anyways so why not just convert to M3 stuff now as it would happen eventually.

    I also found out doing jobs with a kid take wayyyy more time than it should even when he comes down to the garage to help out.


    Got the fiancé a new car as parking at her new job doesn't allow for her to drive the truck.


    Hoping to get back on the track again in the next month or so. Really wanting to get back out there now the weather has cleared up.

    Sorry for the lack of pics and shitty write up. Posting from my phone in bed with what spare time I have these days.
    Last edited by bjh102; 04-02-2017 at 01:11 AM.

  21. #21
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    Went to get my alignment done yesterday. Bad news looks like one of the trailing arms I got is bent. Drivers side toe will not come in better than -.43* toe out. Looks like I need to get a new trailing arm. Spoke with the guy I got it from and he is pulling another one for me. Frustrating cause I am so close to being able to drive this car again. Hoping to get it fixed this weekend and get it realigned next week.


  22. #22
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    Finally some good news! Got the new trailing arm in and got it aligned. Glad to say the alignment came in just fine. I took a quick measurement of both arms. Put a straight edge across the hub to the bolt for the rtab. The bent arm was pushed 1/4" further out than the correct one. Woohoo!

    Now onto a quick project today that had been bugging me for a while. With no fender liners there is a huge hole right below my intake.



    This would be disastrous if I hit a big puddle and with all the rain we have had here it was bothering me any time I drove the car. So time to fill in the hole with some aluminum I have laying around.

    First a cardboard template.







    Transfer to aluminum, cut out, drill a few holes and bolt into place.





    There is still a bit of a gap on the frame rail side however this will keep 99% of the water off my intake.

    Next up rebuild my axles as one of the boots has a hole in it and is slinging grease inside my wheel. Should be a fairly easy job then off to the track in a month or so.

  23. #23
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    This car is officially irritating the crap out of me. I finally thought it was ready to get on track besides putting new boots on the axles. Ordered the parts (note that ear clamps from the kit on pelican parts do not fit the boots when actually installed on the axles.) and as pulled the wheel on the driver side rear I noticed a lot of play in the wheel bearing. Looks like all new wheel bearings and studs all around. I finally got them all changed and my axles rebuilt over the last week so I think I'm finally ready to get ANOTHER alignment next weekend and get it back on track. Anyways its all ready for an alignment, drove around 100 miles in it on Saturday with no issues so hopefully I'm good to go.

    Through all this i did finally buy myself a press, it was needed to get the cv joints apart.

    Some pics from the whole ordeal tho not many as I was mostly pissed off this time around, along with my friends finger he got trapped in the slide hammer helping me get the hubs out of the car.









    Yes the garage is a mess, I finally got around to cleaning it up a bit.





    pic of the car at my fiends shop last weekend, was going to do the alignment myself but I was getting way different numbers than my last alignent so i figured i would just take it back and have it done again, whats another $120 at this point?





    Gross content below. Actually much worse than it looks, not too sure on the details at this point but basically no feeling in that finger, doctors are worried about compartment syndrome and he will no longer have a fingerprint on that finger. The shitty party is he did it again to another finger about 10 minutes after this one, good thing he was a few beers in when this happened.


  24. #24
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    Bringing this thread back from the dead. Been a busy few years. My wife and i decided to move from the Bay Area out to Reno in 2019. Since then she has been a stay at home mom taking care of our son. He is now old enough that he wanted to start preschool so that means my wife could go back to work.

    Since we moved my car had just been sitting in the garage, not registered, not insured, not being driven. Well I had an appointment already at the DMV in january so I figured it was time to get this thing back on the road. Did a full detail, got insurance, got it smogged and finally registered in the state of NV!!!

    thumbnail_IMG_1252 by Brad Harris, on Flickr">

    thumbnail_IMG_2082 by Brad Harris, on Flickr">

    It was great to finally drive my car again! My son loved it too. He "likes to go fast".

    Now the bad, i kept noticing one or two drops of oil in the garage floor each time I drove it so I dug into it. Well, looks like i have a leak coming from the oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket and oil filter housing. Not a big deal, new gaskets and it will all be good to go. But there is always the "while I'm in there" things that start to add up. So the parts ordering started. S54 oil filter housing, oil cooler, Achilles oil pan baffle, safety wire oil pump nut, vanos rebuild and a few more other little things.

    Last weekend I got the top side pulled apart and rebuilt along with the s54 oil filter housing.


    thumbnail_63608037907__7A7AC4B9-747A-4B3A-AC41-67C74889486F by Brad Harris, on Flickr">

    thumbnail_63608528570__800EEBEE-B051-4A33-B5F2-6915309C4963 by Brad Harris, on Flickr">

    thumbnail_63609385296__80EC61E8-CB4A-4317-A294-24B06078210E by Brad Harris, on Flickr">

    My little foreman making sure I do this correctly.

    thumbnail_IMG_2208 by Brad Harris, on Flickr">

    S54 oil filter housing with turner AN fittings.

    thumbnail_IMG_2211 by Brad Harris, on Flickr">

    It does hit the cooling vent on my alternator so a quick trim of that and we are good to go.

    thumbnail_IMG_2212 by Brad Harris, on Flickr">

    Got the oil pan off tonight stock pan baffle cut out and oil pump nut safety wired on.

    thumbnail_IMG_2226 by Brad Harris, on Flickr">

    Spent a bit of time cleaning up my tool box after the work was done.

    thumbnail_63616376245__359CB223-352A-41F0-85A7-57AD5AB03454 by Brad Harris, on Flickr">

    thumbnail_63616378253__1FA1D9B5-30AA-4CA0-868A-57BCBA9552B3 by Brad Harris, on Flickr">

    thumbnail_63616380240__147294DD-0674-4AA1-8F42-22EDC924ED38 by Brad Harris, on Flickr">

    thumbnail_63616384107__9CF01DB9-1AB3-4CB6-8748-DC85149D4E69 by Brad Harris, on Flickr">

    At this point I am as far as I can go until more parts show up. Waiting on the stepped banjo bolt for the new OFH idler pulley, hydraulic tensioner pulley assembly. Going to drop off the oil pan to a buddy tomorrow to get the baffle welded in and have the mounting bracket for the oil cooler made up. Hopefully this will all be back together in the next week or two.

  25. #25
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    Finally getting time to update this thread. I got the car finished about a month ago but havent had time to post an update.

    My buddy got the oil pan baffle and oil cooler mounting brackets welded up for me.

    thumbnail_63737034081__FC9214DE-0901-4030-8549-E78963BEB76E by Brad Harris, on Flickr

    Got the oil pan installed, front subframe back in place steering column back together now I could focus on running oil cooler lines and mounting the cooler.

    thumbnail_63788259755__E27CFDFF-0B97-48DC-B26A-864D7EDDBDE8 by Brad Harris, on Flickr

    I wrapped some rubber padding around the lines in any areas they could possibly rub, maybe not necessary but better safe than sorry. Also used some oversize hose clamps to stop them from drooping. I went oversize as i still wanted them to be able to move freely just didnt want them drooping down.

    thumbnail_IMG_2276 by Brad Harris, on Flickr

    Almost there.

    thumbnail_63788260817__9CA092D0-F0C6-418A-A8CF-E4F90850E99C by Brad Harris, on Flickr

    Much better.

    thumbnail_IMG_2281 by Brad Harris, on Flickr

    I have driven the car about 100 miles since completing, no more oil leaks. A lot of the noises coming from the engine have gone away and the car seems to pull much harder from about 3500 up to redline. I can only assume its from rebuilding the vanos. Or I am imagining things. There are some auto cross events coming up in June i would love to get out to, if not ill be getting out to some track days later this year.

    Last thing to do is change the swap bar end links and start figuring out why the ABS light is on.
    Last edited by bjh102; 04-18-2021 at 10:03 AM.

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