EEP1 cluster code

[KeysCoupe]

I did a search and can't find a definite answer, other than a trip to the dealer for new cluster and coding.
The problem; A friend with a 2000 Roady with a 2.8tu/manual. Had a check engine light on, took it to friend (not me!) to check codes/clear codes. Codes cleared, but cluster gauges now dead, except for speedo, and EEP1 showing.
The dealer will install a new cluster and code it, but that is $$$$.

The question; Can a used cluster be swapped in, and what does it take to make it work?
I understand earlier cars (pre 8/98) can be done pretty easy. Also, I understand the replacement cluster mileage needs to be lower than approx 55,000 (the actual mileage of the car) so the ECU mileage will transfer to the swapped cluster after the swap. I hear stories of a tamper dot appearing, or the replacement cluster simply replicating the fatal code. Does anyone have anything to add, other than a trip to the dealer?

He's tried multiple start/drive cycles, and battery disconnect/ground-to-positive re-boots (disconnected cables only). All fuses good, grounds verified, etc. The cluster has never come back to life. It seems most failures are EEP2, which seem start as temperature dependant.
The best thread I found was JWin's where it sounds like a trip to the dealer was ultimately the fix, but that was a couple years back. Our cars are getting older now, and I expect more issues like this will start cropping up.
Thanks-Donny

[Monolith]

EEPROM failure (mileage unreadable)

Different EEPROM chip numbers were used in different model years.

As a start, note post #3 in the below link and read through post #7.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=242987

From post #3 and the obsolete PDF link, it implies some diagnostic equipment can fry the coding chip. I would start researching swapping the coding chip. If it's temperature related, reheating the solder joints in the cluster might work.

I believe this is from the missing PDF link:

WARNING: Do not use the cigarette lighter power adapter car when DigiDis used vehicle or OBD II diagnostic port. This vehicle will destroy the CPU! If you use both energy sources in the vehicle, you send dual voltage to the CPU, making it burn. The instrument panel will then display "EEP-1" or something similar, and the instrument panel need to be replaced. Note: The new generation has a different connector DigiDis AC (alternating current) (220v-12v) and not burn but the panel.


Mileage Sync:
http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f92/guide-e36-speedometer-mileage-match-up-t106273/

You swap in your coding plug, and then run cluster test #9 to synchronize the cluster to whichever is higher - the cluster EEPROM or the coding plug - this cancels the tamper dot and shows the correct mileage for your coding plug.

Test 9: Distance reading - this allows the total stored mileage to be updated if one of the storage components has to be replaced. This test step will be used if the manipulation dot is illuminated in the cluster display. This display will show the component with the lower mileage. For example:
Display of 012654 l indicates that the mileage in the internal EEPROM is lower than the mileage stored in the coding plug.
Display of 000325 E indicates that the mileage in external coding plug is lower then the total mileage stored in the internal EEPROM.

Pressing the reset button for 4 seconds will over write the lower mileage with the higher mileage and cancel the manipulation dot. The SI data will also be transferred at the same time.


For reference - Cluster Self Test:
http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=20201

[sandman1]

I had this and was able to order a coding plug from on online dealer (since closed) and then override the mileage since my cluster had the higher reading than the brand new coding plug. If you can find a dealer that will sell you the coding plug you can easily swap it out yourself, its in the back of your speedo cluster

[blueline1226]

Ok so this seems like a lost link in every direction. I wanted to try and resurrect this...

I have that dreaded EEP_1 issue with my 2000 bmw z3 and simply just want to swap the cluster gauge, seems like there are a lot of steps missing on the correct way to do this with showing proper miles. Everyone seems to link to documents that no longer exist on the internet (as of now dec 2017).

Can anyone provide updated information on this? I know im not the only one trying to track this down. Maybe someone who has actually done a cluster swap could chime in?

[khammack]

To which links are you referring? I check the links in this thread and some of the links in the linked threads and all that I check still work.

[2 seater]

i left my park lights on, drained the battery for a couple days and now my odometer is codE 1

Sandman1 are you there? are you saying the new coding plug will boot up and take the mileage reading from the computer?

visit to the dealer today was unsuccessful at reprogramming the Inst cluster chip, they think the coding plug fried, or at least that's the first shot out of the parts cannon. like an idiot i ordered the part through the dealer (from Germany) b/c guy said he'd cut me a deal, turns out they're available on this continent for less

[sandman1]

i left my park lights on, drained the battery for a couple days and now my odometer is codE 1

Sandman1 are you there? are you saying the new coding plug will boot up and take the mileage reading from the computer?

visit to the dealer today was unsuccessful at reprogramming the Inst cluster chip, they think the coding plug fried, or at least that's the first shot out of the parts cannon. like an idiot i ordered the part through the dealer (from Germany) b/c guy said he'd cut me a deal, turns out they're available on this continent for less

Yes. The new plug will have zero mileage and your VIN already encoded. Insert the new coding plug and your mileage will feed in from your cluster.