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Thread: The Official E39 Rear Shock Replacement DIY Guide

  1. #1
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    The Official E39 Rear Shock Replacement DIY Guide

    I just replaced the rear shocks on my 530i Sport and recorded some videos to demonstrate the complete procedure. You can read more about the tools required and other details on my site here:


    https://bimmerzeit.com/2016/08/19/e3...-complete-diy/


    Step One: Rear Seat Removal





    Step Two: Rear Parcel Shelf Removal





    Step Three: Rear Shock Replacement (Driver Side)





    Step Four: Rear Shock Replacement (Passenger Side)





    Hope this helps!

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    First, thanks to the OP for the DIY. However, I would recommend taking the rear shocks out by removing the rear upper control arm, then the shock drops right out. It's easier than bending the fuel fill pipe around or hassling on the other side with the evap system, and less risk of damaging the top of the fender or damaging a hose etc.
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    Quote Originally Posted by bostonaudi View Post
    First, thanks to the OP for the DIY. However, I would recommend taking the rear shocks out by removing the rear upper control arm, then the shock drops right out. It's easier than bending the fuel fill pipe around or hassling on the other side with the evap system, and less risk of damaging the top of the fender or damaging a hose etc.
    Interesting, I didn't think of doing it that way. Can you link to any video or photo of that method? Thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by rbelton View Post
    Interesting, I didn't think of doing it that way. Can you link to any video or photo of that method? Thanks!
    As in photo, with upper link removed it’s quite simple to remove the damper. The link is reasonably easy to pop, make sure wheel is at ride height when retightening the inner bolt.





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    Quote Originally Posted by bostonaudi View Post
    As in photo, with upper link removed it’s quite simple to remove the damper. The link is reasonably easy to pop, make sure wheel is at ride height when retightening the inner bolt.





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    And to make it super easy, the Schwaben spring compressor. Makes struts a snap.




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    "And to make it super easy, the Schwaben spring compressor. Makes struts a snap."
    Are you using this just to slightly compress the assembly for installation or using it to change the shock?
    Is the spring retained by anything? That thing looks like an accident waiting to happen.

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  7. #7
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    I don't use a spring compressor, just a jack under the swing arm.
    Don't unbolt the top shock mount.
    Unbolt one end of the sway bar link.
    Remove the top front upper link nut, pop it out of the wheel carrier.
    Remove the shock rod nut and then the nut on the bottom of the shock.
    Lower the jack.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    "And to make it super easy, the Schwaben spring compressor. Makes struts a snap."
    Are you using this just to slightly compress the assembly for installation or using it to change the shock?
    Is the spring retained by anything? That thing looks like an accident waiting to happen.
    Agree! I'm ducking just looking at that picture! I'm hoping that there's some sort of safety clamp hidden from view behind the clamps.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    I don't use a spring compressor, just a jack under the swing arm.
    Don't unbolt the top shock mount.
    Unbolt one end of the sway bar link.
    Remove the top front upper link nut, pop it out of the wheel carrier.
    Remove the shock rod nut and then the nut on the bottom of the shock.
    Lower the jack.
    Hmmm. Interesting Jim. I'm wondering how/if to use this method on the front struts. My hands and arms are sprained from doing just the left side two weeks ago with threaded rods.
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    Ed, I used my spring compressors on the fronts. One on each side of the spring, they have hooks that go around the coil so they can't fly off.
    Pretty sure Raj has a good DYI on his Biesan site.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Ed, I used my spring compressors on the fronts. One on each side of the spring, they have hooks that go around the coil so they can't fly off.
    Pretty sure Raj has a good DYI on his Biesan site.
    Yes, been doing the same thing using Rajai's procedure, and using 3 compressors to keep the coil centered.
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    The Official E39 Rear Shock Replacement DIY Guide

    Quote Originally Posted by Ed CT View Post
    Agree! I'm ducking just looking at that picture! I'm hoping that there's some sort of safety clamp hidden from view behind the clamps.

    - - - Updated - - -



    Hmmm. Interesting Jim. I'm wondering how/if to use this method on the front struts. My hands and arms are sprained from doing just the left side two weeks ago with threaded rods.
    The Schwaben is gold, I’ve been doing suspensions for 35 yrs, this is best home tool you can get. It hooks the spring and holds it solidly, and it’s super easy to compress the spring. Way better than than the typical cheapies with threaded rods.
    Last edited by bostonaudi; 02-19-2019 at 04:52 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by bostonaudi View Post
    The Schwaben is gold, I’ve been doing suspensions for 35 yrs, this is best home tool you can get. It hooks the spring and holds it solidly, and it’s super easy to compress the spring. Way better than than the typical cheapies with threaded rods.
    Should add the fender liners can still be a PIA even with the top link removed. The top mount can get caught on the top of the liner.


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    Quote Originally Posted by bostonaudi View Post
    The Schwaben is gold, I’ve been doing suspensions for 35 yrs, this is best home tool you can get. It hooks the spring and holds it solidly, and it’s super easy to compress the spring. Way better than than the typical cheapies with threaded rods.
    So it does have a safety hook or something. This is good to know Thanks.
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    Quote Originally Posted by bostonaudi View Post
    The Schwaben is gold, I’ve been doing suspensions for 35 yrs, this is best home tool you can get. It hooks the spring and holds it solidly, and it’s super easy to compress the spring. Way better than than the typical cheapies with threaded rods.
    Glad to hear that. It looks like a well made tool.
    After using and having scary moments with screw types and other DIY type stuff for ages I started bringing my struts to a local shop with a friendly owner. He would do them for me using a Brannick wall mount spring compressor. ~2 years ago I broke down and bought my own. It was an epiphany, 5 minutes TOPS using one of these and you're not so afraid as if disarming a nuclear bomb.
    I've since noticed several used ones for sale on Craigslist at reasonable prices, $2-400 v. $800 new. I suspect the popularity of fully assembled "quick struts" has a lot of shops abandoning the practice of replacing components

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    I don't use a spring compressor, just a jack under the swing arm.
    Don't unbolt the top shock mount.
    Unbolt one end of the sway bar link.
    Remove the top front upper link nut, pop it out of the wheel carrier.
    Remove the shock rod nut and then the nut on the bottom of the shock.
    Lower the jack.
    Gotta be a little dodgy re-assembling that way, no?

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post

    Gotta be a little dodgy re-assembling that way, no?
    No, pretty easy. The swing arm is down. Stick the shock with spring up into position, slide the bottom of the shock into position, install the bolt, then start jacking the swing arm up. Reassemble the remaining parts.

    Removing the front upper arm from the wheel carrier lets the swing arm drop down enough so no 2x4 wood is needed.
    Last edited by JimLev; 02-20-2019 at 09:04 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    No, pretty easy. The swing arm is down. Stick the shock with spring up into position, slide the bottom of the shock into position, install the bolt, then start jacking the swing arm up. Reassemble the remaining parts.

    Removing the front upper arm from the wheel carrier lets the swing arm drop down enough so no 2x4 wood is needed.
    Hmmm, I'd have thought lining up the shock to the mount hole would be problematic. I will be facing this job again soon (if some engine issues get sorted first) and will give your method a try. It's gotta be much easier to wrangle the shock without the mount into place.
    Words can't describe how much I hate doing these. Maybe you'll have eased my pain.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    Glad to hear that. It looks like a well made tool.
    and you're not so afraid as if disarming a nuclear bomb.
    That’s a great description

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    Rear shock removal without spring compressors and without removing wheel liner.

    Thanks OP for the excellent video tutorial.

    Please follow the Bentley's Service manual instructions. I did this at my own risk.
    To remove the rear shocks without spring compressors and without removing the wheel liner I did the following on a 2001 530i Msport suspension re using original springs.

    1. Remove sway bar link at the sway bar and place a jack under the swing arm.
    2. Remove both swing arm bolts that attach to the body. Note orientation of bolt washers.
    3. Remove both rear control arm bolts that attach to the body (control arms ball joints can remain installed). Unhook abs and parking brake line.
    4. Loosen bottom shock bolt.
    5. Remove shock mount nuts and the shock shaft nut inside the rear cabin.
    6. Slowly lower swing arm using jack all the way down. Remove shock bolt, shock mount, then snake the shock out.
    7. Installation is reverse order except you can install shock mount by hand.
    8. Preload suspension when tightening shock, swing arm and control arm bolts.
    8. Get an alignment.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by energizedmortal; 04-24-2020 at 04:27 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bostonaudi View Post
    First, thanks to the OP for the DIY. However, I would recommend taking the rear shocks out by removing the rear upper control arm, then the shock drops right out. It's easier than bending the fuel fill pipe around or hassling on the other side with the evap system, and less risk of damaging the top of the fender or damaging a hose etc.
    +1...that's how I did it too.

    I was born and raised in Charleston, SC...

    '00 540iA Sport w/235k+ Original TCG's, Vanos and transmission.​*Trans failure at 244k+...FS Now

  20. #20
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    I'm getting ready to replace the rear suspension, including full suspension and rear subframe bushings.
    I have a question for the rear struts.
    Do you guys replace all the other components as well?

    All the rear strut hardware comes out to $650 CAD - more expensive than the rear struts themselves.
    Do you guys replace all the strut hardware components or some are safe to skip? The top plates alone for the rear struts are alone $140 each
    https://parts.brianjesselbmw.com/p/b...521091710.html

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    Replacing the rubber bits makes sense but not the other stuff unless its just really rusted out or something. I would buy #7, #5, #3, and maybe #4.

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    Just replace the mounts , any rubber spring pads, and bump stops , and of course the struts and shocks ...

    Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …

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