***2014 328d xDrive Transfer Case Failure!***

[Irishgal84]

This is a heads up to anyone who is about to run out of their warranty, like I am ( via mileage)! I caught this problem just in the nick of time. Otherwise it would have cost me a pretty penny!

I was noticing that each time I had my car in Sport mode, and I accelerated up an incline, it felt like it was missing/hesitating. I had BMW check it out, they found what my car was doing but only reset it. They said if it happened again to bring the car back. It happened again. So this time I said I wanted it fixed as my warranty was about to run out.

So, my BMW service dept gave me a loaner, and went to work on my car, and lo and behold, they called me to tell me that my transfer case was failing!! And they had ordered a new one to replace it.

So, check out your transfer cases, guys and girls, on your 2014 328 models before your warranties run out, specifically those nearing the 50,000 miles mark (as mine is).

[bmwdirtracer]

Let's also take this opportunity to give credit to your dealership, AND to BMW NA. They identified the problem, and they took responsibility, though the warranty was nearing an end. I point this out, because a lot of people badmouth the dealers and BMWNA unfairly, and we should all note this counterpoint.

Note please that I work at any independent BMW shop; the dealer is "my competition"....and they're damned fine people.

[Znark]

I also have a 2014 328D xDrive with 29,000 mile on it and they are installing my second transfer case as we speak. The first one was at 15k and they had my car for 3 weeks! When I brought it back the dealership said it cannot be a transfer case they just do not fail. Called today and they said a new transfer case is on order. The dealer has been great dealing with the issue, providing a loaner etc... but what is going on? I am seriously thinking about selling the car before the warranty expires which breaks my heart, I love the car and the fuel mileage is fantastic, averaging 36 mpg, but a looming $4k failure every 15k miles is not encouraging.

Thoughts anyone?

[Nbriser]

It's happening to me also. Huge crunch and lost almost all power. 2014 328xd 57k on it. Luckily I had extended the warranty!!

[wondersloth]

2014 328d w/ about 65k mi

For the last couple of years I felt the sluggish hesitation going up hills with power.

Started getting a screen on my iDrive display showing “Intermittent drivetrain malfunction.” This would come on, disappeared for months then came back on.

I took it to the dealer. Had to replace my battery for them to diagnose this correctly. $400 dollars later.

They investigated the drivetrain malfunction code, and estimated a $3000 job to completely replace my transfer case (there was I think a $1000 core charge). This was there recommended fix.

They service advisor spoke to BMW and talked it down to $1500 or so. Thankfully I remembered I had an extended warranty and they covered all of the parts and labor.

Odd issues was the BimmerTech NBT retrofit caused problems when they had to reflash the car after.

Drives wonderfully now. Though I want to get rid of the car now given that time bomb of an issue.

Note: typing from my phone and don’t have the service receipts to get exact dollar amounts for the service.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bmwdirtracer]

I'd like to share an equation that I find useful:

Maintaining and servicing a car, after the warranty ends, requires approximately 4%, per year, of the car's value, brand new. This figure does not include tires or fuel.

Any years which this amount was not spent ACCRUE.

This equation applies to all German cars: BMW, Mercedes, and VW/Audi. I can't give information on Japanese cars, but certainly Toyota and Lexus seem to be much more reliable than this. (I don't care, personally, they don't appeal to me at all.)

We bemoan BMW N63 timing chains, and transfer cases, etc.....but Mercedes and VWAG have equally catastrophic failures, on young cars. All the top-of-the-line manufacturers are pushing the limits, and incorporating more technology into their cars, in an attempt to please the people who want their cars to do EVERYTHING.

Personally, I'll stay with the previous generation of cars. They don't carbon clog the head passages, they don't spit turbo parts everywhere, failed HPFP's, alternators that only charge when the car is coasting, ASS systems, and computer operated parking brakes that are too damned stupid to release the parking brake when you select a gear......hell, I once owned a '72 Cadillac that would do that!

I'm looking at six cars built after 2011, each having less than 90k miles, right now, in our shop....each one needs an engine. 2 are MBenz, two are BMW's, two are VW/Audis. Oh, and another one that needs a transmission......

Sigh. If you want a reliable car, buy something old. When it breaks, at least you can fix it without mortgaging your house.

[328 Power 04]

2014 328d w/ about 65k mi

For the last couple of years I felt the sluggish hesitation going up hills with power.

Started getting a screen on my iDrive display showing “Intermittent drivetrain malfunction.” This would come on, disappeared for months then came back on.

I took it to the dealer. Had to replace my battery for them to diagnose this correctly. $400 dollars later.

They investigated the drivetrain malfunction code, and estimated a $3000 job to completely replace my transfer case (there was I think a $1000 core charge). This was there recommended fix.

They service advisor spoke to BMW and talked it down to $1500 or so. Thankfully I remembered I had an extended warranty and they covered all of the parts and labor.

Odd issues was the BimmerTech NBT retrofit caused problems when they had to reflash the car after.

Drives wonderfully now. Though I want to get rid of the car now given that time bomb of an issue.

Note: typing from my phone and don’t have the service receipts to get exact dollar amounts for the service.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds like your car wore out the transfer case clutches.

Make sure you have the same tire size all around, and check that your front and rear differentials are the same gear ratio.
There is a TSB explaining that some cars accidentally received different gear ratios for front and back axles.

- - - Updated - - -

Your NBT retrofit uses a faked generated activation code, not purchased from a genuine source, so yes, the dealers programming will erase non approved FSC codes.

[wondersloth]

Sounds like your car wore out the transfer case clutches.

Make sure you have the same tire size all around, and check that your front and rear differentials are the same gear ratio.
There is a TSB explaining that some cars accidentally received different gear ratios for front and back axles.

- - - Updated - - -

Your NBT retrofit uses a faked generated activation code, not purchased from a genuine source, so yes, the dealers programming will erase non approved FSC codes.

Thank you for the heads up about the TSB.

As for my car and it's wheels, I ordered the car with the Sport Suspension, and M Sport Line Kit; so it has a staggered setup. That makes more sense than. I will talk to the service reps again about this to make sure.

Something that worries me is that I got a fault code again on my display just this morning. Oof.

[bmwdirtracer]

Staggered tire fitments, as prescribed by the factory, are just fine...you'll note that the staggered fitment changes the first number, AND the second number....these offset....and the tire's outside circumference remains approximately the same. (i.e......a 225x45x17 has about the same outside measurements as a 245x40x17. First number increased from 225 mm (width) to 245 mm. Second number is a direct percentage (40% or 45%) of the first number (sidewall height).

The problem comes when people swap tires which do not follow the principle of equal diameter / circumference. You can go to TireRack.com and find the diameter of any given tire....or just post your tire sizes and specifics here, amd I'll be glad to tell you if that's your issue.

Beyond that, we need specific codes, in words, given by a BMW diag computer, from the DME, the ABS, and the EGS. The stuff appearing on your screen is not a diagnostic code, it just tells you to go see someone with a good BMW computer.

Aftermarket parts which involve computers will often bite you in the ass later.

As for cars that accidentally received different gear ratios, I certainly trust 328 Power 04, that this is true. To which, I really have to ask, WTF BMW ?????

[328 Power 04]

SI.pdf


Multiple assembly lines in multiple cities... That's probably how it happened. Not sure how common.

[2014Gt]

2014 BMW 328i GT - had same type symptoms - when vehicle was in sport mode - during hard acceleration - there was a very noticeable disruption. First the BMW tech told me my tires were not BMW certified and that was likely the issue (WTF?). However when I complained, the service manager took a look and confirmed it was indeed the transfer case. Vehicle only has 25K miles. Glad I got the extended warranty - would have been $3500 out of pocket

[328 Power 04]

2014 BMW 328i GT - had same type symptoms - when vehicle was in sport mode - during hard acceleration - there was a very noticeable disruption. First the BMW tech told me my tires were not BMW certified and that was likely the issue (WTF?). However when I complained, the service manager took a look and confirmed it was indeed the transfer case. Vehicle only has 25K miles. Glad I got the extended warranty - would have been $3500 out of pocket

If you want to prevent that happening again, have someone install the updated driveshaft flex disk (giubo) that is made out of rubber. It is what will prevent the output flange failure in the transfer case.

The aluminum flex disc you have in your car currently carries too much vibration from the 4cyl and will wear the output flange from the transfer case. Easy prevention now.

You need to install part number 26117610061

[CorvidX6M]

Regarding what BMWDirtRacer said, my rule of thumb for Mercedes used cars is to take whatever you bought it for, double that, and that's your annual repair budget. LOL.

I like your 4% per year, that accrues if not taken care of. Slightly more scientific.