Got to use an RTD the other weekend on track and its amazing! Dont know if I'd like it daily, but on track its one of the best things I've ever used in a car on track
1995 M3...Screwed
My RTD is still going strong after 4500 miles and 15 track days.
I run mine with solid motor and trans mounts though, since yes the OEM mounts can create mis-shifts with shifters that use a cage design.
I installed a RTD in my 97 e36 m3.
I have Stiff poly engine and gearbox mounts
Firstly I brought mine second hand, and it maybe an earlier model as I had to modify it.
On the first install it was required to set the unit as far forward on the tunnel, as adjustment would allow or I couldn't change into 2nd,4th or 6th. (gears edited getting old sorry)
The Unit, worked as DD but was every/to precise.
Unit didn't work on the track as once the car was pushed hard and got real hot, I guess something went out of spec. I couldn't change into 2nd,4th or 6th again.
Once removed I had the front slots extended to the plate face. I also extended the rear plate and slot.
Up sized the bolts from 6mm to 8mm
By luck not good managerment I could just still squeeze the unit in, without having to removing any extra trim.
Now as DD
while cruising it precise, you do have to concentrate when changing from 6th to 5th as it moves to the gate between 3rd and 4th so 3rd easy to engage.
Hard acceleration from a standing start isn't that nice. Whether its the poly mounts or the spring set for 3rd and 4th gate I'm not sure.
With spirted driving I've had no problems with using all the gears.
As for at the track I'm hoping to be able to update you after the 29th Dec.
Last edited by M3kiwi; 12-05-2017 at 03:26 PM. Reason: Memory failure
Have the prices settled down on these at all yet? I'll be picking one up with reverse lockout soon, still on the fence with brand
Are you sure you have the correct shifter rod for your transmission? Your symptoms sound like you may have the wrong length selector rod for your transmission. I had similar issues installing in my 325i. See post #22 of my build thread here.
After several attempts at trying to contact RTD manufacturer about getting a DSSR off them, I gave up and got a UUC. Check measurement of my shifter rod against UUC DSSR matched.
So who knows
Just an extra piece of advice to make the install easier replace all the lower washers with plates with the nuts welded to them.
You'll then be able to install from inside the car, no need to get under the car at all.
Cae ftw
I use the UUC DSSR with no issues so there is something unique about your setup.
The bolts will still spin if you can't hold them from underneath, but I was able to hold them solo while tightening the nuts inside the cabin.
If I haven't mentioned it before don't use the M6 bolts if that's what you got. I went straight to M8 with fender washers using split washers and nylon locking nuts.
I just came across the NP Parts shifter which has the lockout feature. Could only find older reviews which were not favorable, although it's priced way lower than others. Maybe someone has more recent experience with these? https://www.enjukuracing.com/product...r-bmw-e36.html
Yep, that thing is missing the most important part of the CAE and its clones,,,, the tower.
The way its built it does have a slightly elevated pivot ratio over a true body mounted one like BW or AKG.
The real key to that CAE style shifter being what it is the the elevated tower that changes the pivot ratio of the shifter lever vs. the selector joint dramatically.
On any body or carrier mounted shifters your are somewhat stuck with the stock-ish ratio of handle vs. selector joint (the bottom part below the pivot that attached to the selector rod).
The CAE design allows that ratio to change how much the handle moves the selector rod without running it into the guibo or driveshaft.
This one is nowhere near that ratio change the the CAE / Samsonas shifters have.
jimmy p.
88 E30 M3 Zinnoberot - street
88 E30 M3 Lachsilber - SCCA SPU
87 E30 M3 Prodrive British Touring Car 2.0 Litre
04 Ford F350 - V10
06 Audi A3 Brilliant Red / 2.0 / DSG
Last edited by ScotcH; 12-28-2017 at 10:23 PM.
Hi all,
happy new year.
Finally got to the track, the RTD worked great.
My RTD review.
For a DD I love the crisp and short action.
The above goes double on the track, where you need every 10th.
My replacement RTD shifter arrived yesterday with the reverse lockout.
I've been having some problems at my favorite track with hitting the reverse gate when shifting from 3-2 with my current RTD shifter, so this should address that.
Anyone find that the spring is really stiff?
It’s adjustable.
Just too spendy for me right now. Maybe next race season. Let's first see what blows up (or not)...
Just received the RTD, has anyone documented their install, or are the CAE instructions practically the same?
Just to set the record straight on my RTD shifter install problems.
At my last track meeting I only lasted 2 sessions before my fan made contact with the radiator. Damaging the radiator and destroying my fan shroud etc.
Once on the heist with the radiator removed, engine supported and the engine mounts removed.
My install problems and the reason became clear,
The drivers side engine mount had fail completely (my car is right hand drive). The heat shield protecting the poly engine mount from the exhaust heat was totally inadequate. And as I now know heat on poly changes it molecular structure, my mount was like firm tar to touch.
So with a new radiator, oil cooler lines, shroud and engines mounts protected with over the top heat shield alls good.
And I'm loving my RTD shifter.
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