Hey guys I'm going to be starting my swap tomorrow and want to share and get feedback.
1997 M3 Saloon, I'm pulling her heart and tranny and replacing with a lq4 bottom end with 243 ls6 heads. I'll list all the parts here soon, but I had a question do I need to remove or move or replace the brake booster? I've read yes no this that but not sure. Same with the steering shaft. Let me know if I'm missing something.
2003 hummer h2 lq4
243 ls6 heads(cathedral port)
232/234 .598 Texas speed camshaft V.2
Chromoly pushrods 7.4
Muscle car race oil pan(for clearance)
.625 PAC valvesprings
Short fabricated ls6 racing intake(shorter runners)
102mm throttle body
Tune by frost
Wiring specialist harness(to keep my obd2 bmw stuff)
42lb EV1 injectors
8vms spark cables
MSD coilpacks
Guna try to use the m3 radiator
Dirty dingo alt relocation bracket
Oil cooler and adapter
Power steering line adapter
Vorshlag drive shaft
Vorshlag remote bleeder
CX racing motor mounts
Hugger headers Ebay
Howards cams & racing components dual bearing aluminum race rockers
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Universal fuel and oil pressure regulator
C6 T56 trans
XTD stage 3 clutch and lightweight flywheel
ARP head studs
Dual chain comp cam sprocket
Hawks third generation short throw shifter
Megan racing 32 way adj coilovers
Fender flares
Vorshlag trans mount
Drilled and slotted rotors (new pads)
Stock rear end till it melts
I think that's it prob more but let me know thanks.
Are you still working on the swap, or is it complete? I'm doing the same in my 97 M3 sedan with a LQ4. currently researching the trans; leaning towards a nv3500 since t56's are $$$$
also, how accurate was your parts list? I'm going to copy most of it.
Wish you were closer to Minneapolis!
I can offer some input as im getting close to getting my car complete....
You can keep the stock brake booster depending on what motor mount kit you have. I have Vorshlag and it fit fine. Close fitment but still fit.
I bought a cheap stainless set of headers off of ebay and the driver fit fine but I also flipped mine for the turbo. I used an E46 steering shaft and modified it for the E36 couplings. That and the flipped manifold could be why I didnt have an issue but each case is different.
Im not sure about the Muscle car oil pan, I thought I read somewhere that it doesnt work with our cars, I have the stock LS1 oil pan and it fit perfect
Take a look at http://www.ictbillet.com for the alternator relocation brackets. I used their brackets for my alt, ps and I got the manual adjustable idler tensioner. The crappy stock GM ones will throw the belts.
Good luck its a fun process.
Thanks for the input guys... yea, everything i've read the past few days seems like the nv3500 is not the best choice.
Do you (or anyone) have a recommendation for a manual trans?
I havent had to time to dig deep and research everything yet. I'm looking to keep the LQ4 around the 450hp mark so I can keep as much stock m3 parts as possible for now. Doing my best to keep this as a budget build.
Don't mean to hijack, but no sense in starting another thread.
I'm still learning about this process and have a long way to go!!!
Apparently a trans (cd009) from a 350z or g35 is a good alternative to the t-56 and is much cheaper.
I've been looking for one of those.
Yeah the muscle car pan is really tall. It's priced well as that kit.
Must everyone uses the fbody pan.
does anyone have the part number handy for the f body oil pan? Looking for the complete set.
Been researching it the past few days and want to make sure i get the right part.
does OEM fit the best? I also read Holley could fit, but dont know about the 302-1, 302-2, 302-3....
Also, looking for flywheel suggestions.. In the end i went with the T-56 trans to pair with my LQ4
thank you gents!
Don't know if it fits best but it fits well. Good luck with the swap!
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Thanks for the offer, but I have the driveshaft already
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