Return of an Original Gangsta

[OLD MAN]

Jody this is a great viedo on Amazon and Ebay scammers!

Or should I say LOW LIFE'S ripping us off!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OpDJNDb6b9A

[autox320]

Jody this is a great viedo on Amazon and Ebay scammers!

Or should I say LOW LIFE'S ripping us off!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OpDJNDb6b9A

Saw that one. Yeah dealt with the scamazon spark plugs already and posted rant about it. Iridiums are most common but standard plugs are now copied steel core fakes. Amazon doesn't stop third parties from selling counterfeit. Most are letting amazon sell so they get it labeled as a known vendor "ngk" example and branded prime etc. Too many items are third party sellers even if says direct. Steel core plugs (not copper) in my other motor and yup had lots of issues till found out. Caught it before put holes in the pistons. There were finger nail marks in the piston tops(excess heat). I honestly now buy extra plugs from my buddy that works at auto stores. Even then I sacrifice one and cut it open with a cutoff wheel in the vise to make sure copper cored. Too many scams out there and crazy how the automotive world even functions with all this crap out there.

[OLD MAN]

Saw that one. Yeah dealt with the scamazon spark plugs already and posted rant about it. Iridiums are most common but standard plugs are now copied steel core fakes. Amazon doesn't stop third parties from selling counterfeit. Most are letting amazon sell so they get it labeled as a known vendor "ngk" example and branded prime etc. Too many items are third party sellers even if says direct. Steel core plugs (not copper) in my other motor and yup had lots of issues till found out. Caught it before put holes in the pistons. There were finger nail marks in the piston tops(excess heat). I honestly now buy extra plugs from my buddy that works at auto stores. Even then I sacrifice one and cut it open with a cutoff wheel in the vise to make sure copper cored. Too many scams out there and crazy how the automotive world even functions with all this crap out there.

I agree - makes you not trust anyone or company.

[autox320]

Lot's of winter projects. If get to the 320 though have a couple areas for next season. One is the fuel pump wires. The connection is a push on knurled post. Very crappy and we've had issues where the car runs funny. I'll push on the connectors and twist them reseating. Instantly the car will run better and smoother. I plan to permanently bond the wires to the posts, then pot them with epoxy. I already tried running a die over a post to thread for a ring terminal and that doesn't work. The posts eventually spin during cutting.

Larger project is making a new front end all aluminum. Since the no front worked so well for autox it only makes sense to me. Go light or go home.

My Uncle passed away last weekend from cancer. Still have motivation here in the shop but things feel different somehow. Pressing on cause that's what he'd do no doubt. He sure had some good car race stories.

[autox320]

Old 2004/2005 VHS-C camcorder video.

I came across this vid looking through an old hard drive. This was old Sanford airport dated 2005 but could of been 2004. Still running K-jet injection with adjustments to the mix screw. 02 sensor delete, VW stainless injector lines. 286 cheat grind camshaft on stock 1.8L block. Same headers and head I've now. Probably victoracer tires in that day. On the same GC coil over kit I'm running now. Stock swaybars.

Camcorder is horrible and way before digital days of recording. Honestly not many people recorded runs back then it was barely a thing. I had a headrest mount and small VHS-C camcorder we used for family events.

This vid was just before I did the 38 carb swap on my car. So a look into the way back machine.

2005

[autox320]

Potting connections to probably the last made in the USA carter pumps. Original one was bought in 04, the second one I think during the end of this build. I've two spares from TopEnd performance, but they are blanked out and appear chinese. Keeping in the track box and hope never need them.

After collaborating with Dad came up with a simple method to tackle this issue. Removing the springs from some wire nuts. Using pliers ran these onto the posts with wires down the center. Pretty tight, so tight could sling the pumps around by the wire and don't come off. Just to be sure though used quick set Brampton epoxy. Dad and brothers idea since it's common in golf club repair. The stuff is strong as some higher grade loctite brands. Sets fast in a couple minutes, and best of all 100% waterproof.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Could be a placebo or just beers, but both pumps sound like they run better . I mean the contacts were getting build up of oxidized corrosion in there and that was after putting di-ox in there. No more cheese connections. We noticed when towing during cooler weather then upon arrival at site the press on connections shrank and changed contact slightly. Even with being fully ziptied to the body of the pump to hold them on they would give bad connection issues. Hopefully this is a final solution.

[autox320]

Got tired of moving stacks of tires around. Also eliminated some extra 20ft sticks of steel laying in front of the shop beer fridge. Made a rolling tire rack. Holds 6 sets if need be.

[mjweimer]

That turned out very nicely. I like to put whatever I can on wheels...it's a small detail but has proven helpful for a variety of reasons over the years.


MJ

[autox320]

That turned out very nicely. I like to put whatever I can on wheels...it's a small detail but has proven helpful for a variety of reasons over the years.


MJ

Thanks man. I almost wall mounted, but yeah too permanent. Wheels for sure gives way more options. After seeing my options of racks online it was cheaper for me to just make this. For others the cheapo wall mount options say on amazon etc are probably a better solution. I needed to hold multiple sets.

[autox320]

Well 2021 is here. Let's hope for the better. Kicking off an after Christmas gift is my buddy offering to go in half on a set of scales. Someone was letting go of a perfectly good set of longacre scales for the right price. Well taken care of and like new still in the box.

So few hours later this happened.



I'll make a set of ltw gauge steel platforms for them. And drum roll to see how digital accurate scales compare to my homemade set of ruggles using 4 walmart bathroom scales. I was sure they'd be off in accuracy somewhat due to bathroom scales have % off and having a 3:1 lever (ruggle platform) amplifying that inaccuracy. Ha they are almost exactly as accurate as a $1400 set of digital scales. 0.08%
I guess taking the time to setup and paying attention to the ruggles on centering squaring up etc pays off. They plain work and just as good IMO especially for $150 setup.

Comparing my last cross weight and tossing onto the new longacre scales just to see if the ruggles are close. Yup! Total weight is off but honestly all you want is to set cross weight it's the most important thing in a road race/autocross car. The ruggles will get you there and this proved it to myself. Maybe sell the ruggles setup for local pickup. E21 member would get them for what I've in them $150. PM if interested.



Still working on the M3 slowly. Christmas to myself was a set of very custom Mahle 13:1 dtm pistons for my long rod ratio 2.7L shortblock. Chassis is done. Next is to build a front end using a custom dual pass radiator and oil cooler. Spent Christmas break finishing up the suspension settings and making custom front camber plates and welded on adjustable strut tops.

[autox320]

Made some platforms for the scales. A flat floor is crucial in cross balancing. If the scales aren't flat there's not much point. I found in my shop the one area is the truest. I still took the time to level each scale and across to each scale. With platforms can adjust each one with feet to take out any floor deviation vs using shims. Ordered some corner levels to put on the scales themselves. Will save time from moving my mini level in all planes on each scale multiple times till satisfied. This is one of those jobs that needs a weld table. Believe it or not I don't have one . So found the truest spot out of the entire garage floor, weights, and beer while laying on my side to weld this up.

Why do this? Well they wanted another $1100 for platforms Most didn't have wheels stops due to used on some low body cars. After using my ruggles and car raised up I like having stops at each end. Platforms allow to quickly roll back the car for alignment or adjustment. Much easier to reach tie rods etc.

14ga 1" tubing + road signs (.080" aluminum)

Sorry if pics look different it's cause it's another old pts camera. My pts sony finally died after inhaling years of grinder dust

[autox320]

New Chinese laser transit. Specs are better than the Bosch one I have This is a Huepar box 1G. Much easier to see green, and throws greater distance if need around the house in daylight. Yes it's cheap but so is all the low end transits. It's actually not bad at all and I find it very accurate. Welded up and lapped some stand bases for instruments. Sanded and trimmed bubble levels and machinist rulers to "calibrate" to my use. Using the 2" line. Used super glue for the rulers and bubbles.

This makes setting up the platforms to level super fast. Basically I find the highest platform (floor) and level it first. Then place the laser transit on it to beam across to the others. Level the three others using the bubbles and laser beam to ensure all 4 at the same plane. Saves me from running around to much Like I always say it allows more time for beers.

So scales we bought gently used for $800. Steel for the platforms, and laser transit setup another $162. Not bad for $962 grand total to have a professional setup.

[autox320]

Been busy. Next thing I know I'm setting up cars on the side. I made a custom set of DIY smart strings to get more accurate with my alignments. Works great. I've a few more interested customers in the works. My buddy's E36 of course and another club members AC cobra. Fun stuff.

First customer is a super miata. This thing has a turbo 1.8L making about 230whp, xida gen2 coil overs, 15x10 wheels with maxxis Rcompound 245s all around. I then setup the 320, and weighed the M3 progress.

super Miata




E21 320









E30 M3

[autox320]

Out with the steel front end, in with a super ltw aluminum one. Goal is 9lb front. So far this frame of 6061 weighs 4.5lbs. Headlights will add a few but we'll see. New front "pins" on using 1/4" trailer/tractor pins. New lighter alumilite splitter.

New spool gun and switch to use the mig. I've always wanted one but never used mig on aluminum before. It's different but typical mig if good makes it quick and fun. Settings were a little cold initially but found a groove to finish this up. It's like weld electric brazing lol. If ain't clean with the brush beforehand like typical aluminum; it makes for a crazy weld dance not wanting to go where you aim. Funny stuff. More stick out to use a spool gun on aluminum feels unnatural but it works best as the quick guide suggested. Way less time consuming than alumiweld, and stronger.

Finished up the M3 suspension. It's on the rotisserie for final lightening and strip the undercoating for eastwood.

old steelie served us well

[autox320]

Worked on the front end a bit more today. Beers and blowing through on some homemade headlight buckets. Decided why not just make some out of sheet aluminum since going for lightweight. It's getting there. Looks like we'll hit our goal of sub 10 lbs for the frontend.

A few pics from the beginning of this build to remember what this looked like at the start







2016

[autox320]

Decided to just epoxy the turn signal lights in. Waiting for them to set so held with some zip tape for now. All that's left is to put the lights in later today if get a chance. Stick the fenders back on (aluminum), then weigh the front to see how much it is. Took a spare hood pin set and some scrap aluminum sleeves. Made the splitter pin on with 4 pins to the front end so can remove in about 1min. Or if choose to the entire front end comes off in about minute with our without the splitter.



Fresh for grinding off on the track

[autox320]

Sorting a few issues after a shake down run on the road for the season. Leaking brake fitting on master cylinder for the rear circuit. No pics for this but basically the bubble flare must of been scored when inserted into the master (threads). Finally starting dripping on the shop floor. Finger wipe confirmed the fitting so beer thoughts were put a wrench on it and cinch it a bit more. Put a blue shop towel under it overnight. Came back next morning and the reservoir was empty nasty wet shop towel draped over the frame rail. Put a portable vise clamped onto a nearby roll bar. Clamped in the eastwood brake tool. Removed the nicopp line and cut threw away the fitting with end. Put a new fitting on and re-flared in place. Tightened up and refilled. Sat overnight under pressure without leaks over a nice clean blue towel.

Next was the exhaust system. It doesn't have enough flex in the rear hanger so cracks continue to develop in the rear mufflers or joints. This started after our delrin engine mounts failed awhile back and had to repair the header tube. Solid steel engine mounts and somehow was overlooked to not have a flex point. Quick order on amazon for a 2.5" stainless braided segment to fix this. Zipped that on thought was good so painted with some high heat black. Only then with paint xray vision (removed beer goggles)to discover a new forming crack at the same rear muffler; hence why now using a flex spot. Zipped that back together. Plenty of vibration resistance now but will keep a closer eye on it.

First day series was cancelled due to rain weather. Next one isn't till May. Hopefully get to Atlanta Motorsports Park in May as well for some track time.

[Allenwilson33]

Excellent progress. Haven’t been on the forum in 5 years and this is the first one I’m checking in on ha!

[autox320]

Thanks Allen!


Moving along few more things to attend to. BTW note June 1st Google photos accounts will count as part of your storage space. Updates with pics may decrease depending how we manage storage space. I'll probably slim up photos and other storage if need be. But for those who have a lot probably be constrained from here or pay. Food for thought.

Dad trimmed the seat bolsters on the kirkey drag seats. Something we talked about doing last year but just haven't yet. They are a bit excessive cause made for drag racing where your not turning. The bolsters tend to get ya in the ribs. Dad hates how when he gets in the car they go right up his rearend when trying to get in the seat. Much better now.

Made up another set of plugs. Figure 1set/yr is good. Another set of BR9EYA (7548) NGK's. Cut back ground strap, filed/deburred, gapped to .040". Again these are colder heat range of 9 (NGK) vs stock 5 (NGK) to use in our 13:1 motor. Indexed them of course on install.

After last pulls yesterday still have a mystery oil leak again near the distributor. Thought it might have something to do with oil itself. New oil on a cool day out; never got much oil temps which means higher than normal pressure when romping on it. More browsing on the 02 forums for extra thoughts. There's the high oil pressure we run with a shimmed pump. Check the drain back hole etc. Someone mentioned possible crack from the pinch bolt area. Pulled off the distributor and housing for close inspection. Yup damn ours is cracked. More JB weld for now.

[autox320]

Finally the first autocross event of the season for us. They cancelled the first two day series, so this is number 3.

[autox320]

First time ever to Atlanta Motorsports Park.

We ran with a SCCA group called Track Night in America. A local autocross member mentioned them due to timeline (1/2 day events) and costs. Can't make any NASA events this year, and Oktoberfast(NASA) will include hyperfest so we are opting out (runs like a circus and too busy). TrackNight events are "street" cars (so are most of NASA HPDE's) but they emphasized it. But there were some hot modded street cars out there. As just about everywhere these days. We had to get a special approval waiver before making the trip to run with the group. Even though our car is street legal (tag, ins) etc it is track prepped. Once arrived they had someone assigned to us for questions and looked over the car. They wanted to be sure we aren't there to set records or something. I get it they don't want over aggressive drivers and basically wanted to feel us out first. We got the ok after a chat. We understood the playground rules and tried to blend in for some seat time. We didn't ruffle any feathers I hope and had a good time.

Track itself was pretty awesome. This is a short track. Has some tight spots, small carousel, large super long carousel leading from back to front straight. The straight had a weird wave in the pavement at speed that tossed the car left a bit. If go slower and hug the right side it was ok but who wants to do that. If full out it would send to the left runoff area appears why it's there lol. I had too much camber in the car so felt the carousels showed it at speed; car felt it didn't have enough rubber for that. I'm already going to change settings again for track days. Droop was ok on rear suspension. This track had two noticeable humps where the rear end is unloaded. One right before the mid straight, and another soon after top of the hill before the Large carousel. Manageable long as know those two spots are there. At higher speed the car will be airborne at those two places. There is a story about a miata top of the hill flipping over into the large carousel. They blamed cross wind, but i'm gonna say he was just to hot entering that and hit the hump as the car was angled for entry.

One of my favorite spots was the dip before the hill leading to the large carousel. The splitter on that corner showed it as well. Already ground off the nut and the aluminum skin on that corner. After that I think I liked the challenge of the front straight. I felt if setup better could of carried more into it from the large carousel. The end brake zone is downhill for turn 1. You'll note my last lap I was hotter entry, downshifted too early, and the rear tires were already a bit heated. Rears locked a bit from downshifting too early but managed to save it easily. The track design is such that sometimes can't see the apexes, they are "blind".

[autox320]

Oil cooling round three.
Ducting the front with S14 lower pan just isn't enough.
Still need more cooling just to tame spikes seen into the 270'sF after hot laps especially in summer time.
Going with a 10row setrab in the duct of the front end.
Why IE and others spec a 19row cooler is beyond me (it's rated for 300hp)
Looking to keep in the 240/250s during summer on track (IMO optimal oil temp)

Earls remote filter head accepts the common wix 5151 (you know in nasty fram filter terms it's the all common PH8A); but opting for the 5151R (what nascar uses) and hey it's only $1 more, has higher flow rate by not filtering as low micron. The R version is also better made more like a hydraulic filter. Same as the wix 51374 and mahle OC84 (cold weather filters). Bonus is extra capacity with a larger filter.

More nord lock washers allow quick removal of cooler and filter head but will ensure keeping attached without using lock nuts.

Earls filter head has a port for the temp sensor post cooler to see how effective it is and actual oil temp the engine sees without obstructing flow. Bought a IE remote filter block this time to get rid of the failure prone sandwich solution. To keep plumbing simple, tapped it for post filter flow like we had our original pressure -4AN line to monitor oil pressure. -10AN lines of course for feed and return

Found another set of PFC 11 brake pads that fit the E21 style front calipers. PFC discontinued our part number 0340.11.15.44 After emailing PFC and suppliers without a single reply; googling for another solution was about to give up and change to something else when I found an answer. Apparently the rear brembo calipers of a 350Z nissan (track pak) uses the same pads as a E21 caliper. Dimensions are identical so I ordered a set. They are indeed the exact pads! So now we use number 0109.11.16.44.










Nissan 350Z rear brembo pads (left) E21 brembo front pads (right)

[I3MW]

Nord locks FTW! Very cool build.

[hdx]

Looks good . What rear gear and transmission are you using?

[autox320]

Nord locks FTW! Very cool build.

Yes Nord Locks are the shizzle. Anybody that hasn't heard of them look them up and see if can help your projects. Once found them it's the only washers to hold down the carb setup without coming loose. I tried everything before and relied on double nuts checking often. The new setup needed a spacer for volume. Maintaining clamp load with a 1" nylon spacer sandwiched on the base plate is no sweat. I check them but every time they are fine with nord locks. I'm using them in my M3 project to hold the diff in. Has long custom M12 "pins" that go into a carrier out of rollbar tubing of the trunk floor that tie directly into the cage. Reach in from the trunk and crack the nuts loose (nord locked) can drop the pins and the diff much easier.

Looks good . What rear gear and transmission are you using?

Thanks Brendan. Using a 1982 320 245/5 + 4bolt flange (8hole guibo) setup. Rearend is a custom built 4.27 (euro automatic I think)with over 40% lockup.

Bought the rear end years ago early 2000's from Perry (skidmark racing). Transmission also early 2000's from a parts car in Georgia(Datsun 510 guy). Figure if it ever craps the bed I'll hammer tune the tunnel and fit a spare 265/5 out of a E30M3 (I have three :0) been hoarding since early 2000s).