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Thread: Return of an Original Gangsta

  1. #501
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,126
    My Cars
    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    The good, the bad and the ugly.

    With the 320 being down for a bit took the time to sort through using a bit of OCD. Removed the carb and intake so could bullet proof the intake fittings with JB weld. Bungs removed and threads coated with JB then installed. The two main fittings same thing but also made a neck of JB to give extra resistance from cracking etc. Touched up some blemishes etc, sanded, another coat of paint.
    While that set up I had the motor hot enough the past few outings, so gave the head +25 degrees angle torque per new procedures I followed. Once it's been hot 180-203F a cycle can give the final torque.
    Bled the brakes with my lady's help, and they seemed good to go with no leaks etc. Put all back together and jet the carb a step down. That was a mistake so I rejet it three times eventually over what I started with day one. Likes the juice.
    Also used my nice timing light to set the idle dead nuts at 14 degrees advance with total timing coming in at 3000 rpm of 36 degrees. It's happy there for sure. Highly recommend these INNOVA timing lights. So much nicer than the old stuff Dad had back in 99. Lets you see RPM side by side with advance or retard timing on the display. Super fast to dial it in. Just a quick check with a vacuum gauge she pulls 12" of vacuum at idle. Not bad with this 294 cam. Of course soon as the pedal is even a foot rest all vacuum is out the window. Brake booster works well though with the extra can reserve. Multiple pushes it still works to assist.

    Finally solved the cooling issue! Combo of leaks not pressurizing and air in the system. Not just the manifold leaks, but thermostat itself. It worked when tested off the car but as some know these designs are two halves. The thermo was leaking at the crimp seam damn man wtf. It's a new wahler, but they don't sell these anymore. I guess issues with them like this . So new 75c Vernet's. Drilled one with two 1/8" holes on the rad side disc. That and filling the system with the manifold first kept air out of the system as it was filled. I rigged a longer hose to the manifold up to the windshield height. Did the trick. Stable 185 degrees on the temp gauge sitting rock steady even after hard runs out to break it in. Fan on can just walk around and admire it holds the needle.

    The good is she's a track runner I'm jacked to the tits! Bit shaky tablet video but my girl took some video of it. I'll try to link once it's uploaded. Like I say I still think there's more left in it Once the jets get here I'll step it up another notch and see what it gives.

    The bad is even with the largest jet of a 180 main I have to step the air correctors to a 200 (20 gap rich afr) just to get the high revs. She wants more fuel at top end which means I need to order MORE jets : It's still at 13.2-13.5 when wrap the tachometer under full WOT with uphill load. I want to see 12.5 especially from 6-7k rpms. There's more left in it and each time I stepped up the mains she got faster and harder pulling through the tach.

    The ugly is after some hard pulls and thrashing it a bit I have a crack or leak in my water pump right where I put the fitting. I suspect it cracked after some hot cycles. That was the reason for sleeved it and adding so much JB weld to it. I'll take it off and inspect tomorrow to see what happened. Worked up till it didn't.






    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  2. #502
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,126
    My Cars
    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  3. #503
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Red White and Blue
    Posts
    556
    My Cars
    82 E21
    Quote Originally Posted by autox320 View Post
    Link works.

    Car looks and sounds great. Sure does seem like it pulls really clean up through the gears - sounds strong. Awesome job.



    MJ

  4. #504
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
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    NC
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    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Quote Originally Posted by mjweimer View Post
    Link works.

    Car looks and sounds great. Sure does seem like it pulls really clean up through the gears - sounds strong. Awesome job.

    MJ
    Thanks man. I can't leave enough alone till find the edge.





    Front clip and rad removal, makes for easy work.
    This morning pulled the pump off and can't find any cracks etc. May be the hose end. I'll put back and try it out when pressurized. Waiting on more jets I want to attempt to toss in the power valve again. If it stumbles tuning with it then it's out. But the chance of running out of possible mains to the point where midrange suffers rich part throttle could be an issue. Hmm just brain storming. Some say never remove the PV due to this issue, and there's documentation that proves in race use otherwise. I might even be able to trim the PV spring to fine tune it's operation. Worth a shot, and I won't know unless try it out. Determined not to stop till see in the 12's AFR near 5000-redline. On the M3 I run it low as 12.6 AFR WOT near 7000-8500. Also ordered a 250 main needle. Mine had a 200 and some places show stock is 200, but a few places including carbs unlimited show stock is a 250.

    Running about a 1/2 gal of coolant rest water for the street. Usually at an event though most say 100% water I put about a cup or so of coolant for lube of the pump. Tried the water wetter redline with all water, nope never again. Never seen so much brown nasty stuff after a weekend come out of my motor.


    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  5. #505
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,126
    My Cars
    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    I quit for the day. Beer in hand looking over the white board of what was done and notes. Hmm may even try the F50 emulsion tubes again why the hell not. I'm all over looking for that last bit of feel to the power band. The F50 has 4 holes on 4 sides close to the top. Which makes it lean out faster for low and midrange. In theory it's less responsive to demand of the pedal where as the F66 is more responsive has 3 different sized holes lower from the top. Richer in the area I'm messing with so F66 may be too much for this combo. If I don't keep that instant response though I'll be keeping them. Trial and error cause no two engines are alike.

    Put a new power valve in. As suspected have good AFR for top end now but mid and low suffers a bit cause low or no vacuum part throttle. I may get into modifying it and not leaving it off the table cause does the job. I feel if I move to F50 emulsion tubes without the power valve I'll never have enough mains to keep it from blowing a hole in the pistons.

    Water pump fitting does have a crack in it. It shows it's ugly head once hot a few runs under pressure. The fuel gauge was labeled backwards and least the low fuel light works. I was a bit down the road and went into eco peddling back to the garage. Refuled, and now the fuel tank pickup o-ring is leaking. It's bad enough to slosh out during hard acceleration. Thoughts of gooping with black rtv but will get another o-ring.

    Right now it's setup different than the video and a bit faster especially on the top revs now. 12.6 AFR 6-7k and 13 4k-6k right where I'm looking for. But midrange part throttle is a bit muddy ie power valve dumping early. I'll have to inspect the rest of the car cause it's not giving any fuss. I'll check bolts etc see how it's all getting along.

    Idles 50
    Main 180
    Air 210
    E tubes F66
    Neddle 200
    Power valve installed
    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  6. #506
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,126
    My Cars
    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Hmm Dad says the F50 will also lean out topend. If I try them guess i'd better be ready to let out of it. Meh beers tonight I'm done reading and thinking about it for now. Parts shipped. I ordered 2 Gates pumps from Rockauto.
    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  7. #507
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,126
    My Cars
    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Was going to just piddle around today and start beers early. . . when digging through a E30 parts bin found a brand new O-ring for the fuel tank . Put a new one on the sender too. The water pump doesn't leak very fast so I changed carb setups a few times and kept going out. Neighbors love me but least I stay in a stretch where it's not as noisy for them.
    Well the F50 emulsion tubes stay in the jet sorting container. Not only were they a royal pain to swap back in they were weak+lean. The F66 feel better.

    With parts on the way not much else could try or so I was thinking a min. Took out the top plate and trimmed one active coil off the power valve spring making it less effective. It felt weaker to push on by hand and should come in later at lower vacuum. This is old school when you don't have any PV selection like Holley does. Need it to come in less vacuum ie in my case 1/2 or less(=/<6in) of idle 12in. Seemed to actually help low end and still gives extra at top end redline. AFR's still good.

    Not stopping there, I liked the way it felt when the air and main were numerically closer (less air more fuel). Found a pair of 185 mains I must of forgot I had in the bag. Put them in for a 25 spacing vs 30 normally. I'm a bit torn now Seems to work pretty good so noting this combo. I'll try others but documenting what does work well to revisit as knowns. I've another power valve coming so may trim another coil off just to see if gives bit more mid by leaning out there not letting the valve come in till a touch later. I might see if go to far if can put washers back on as spacers to "tune" the PV where needed. I still want to try a combo without the PV also to compare the two. Never give up.

    Idles 50
    Main 185
    Air 210
    E tubes F66
    Neddle 200
    Power valve -1 active coil


    Last edited by autox320; 03-18-2018 at 03:05 PM.
    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  8. #508
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,126
    My Cars
    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Hey guys still at it. Still waiting for more jets to try. Before I go any further though I'm waiting to install a 250 main needle valve to give the most fuel possible when the bowl calls for it. It's been noted I should be using a 250, but so far have been wingin' it with a multi hole 200. Tried all kinds of combos and lot's of notes.

    First I received a couple new Gates (china) water pumps. Make sure if get a new pump to clean out the casting where the elbow is. Mine was less than a pinky hole blocking flow till sanded out. I then opened the end up to suit my fitting. JB welded in to give a 1/2" for my setup to the intake manifold. Only took 20min to remove the old pump after the front end, radiator, and draining out fluid. Really liking the new front removal setup especially when working on the motor.

    Basically in a nut shell the F50 emulsion tube just plain sucks. I've tried it several times all kinds of jet combos to the point of almost soldering up some holes. But the F66 just drops in and works 10x better. I trimmed 3 coils now from the PV and finally cleared the midrange where it was dumping fuel excessively. I may still try to just jet it out but we'll see once the larger mains and air correctors come in. My issue with that is not keeping a 30 spread(or as some refer to 3:1) with the air correctors before running out of jet options.

    I thought was getting strange results but started paying attention to my fuel tank level during tuning. Going to need to integrate a surge tank. When the tank gets 1/4 or so the top end is a touch lean in the 13's and it's solely due to the pump sucking air. With a tank refill and catching this I noticed more consistent numbers

    So low end and area off idle reads rich on the AFR meter even after calibration and making sure the distance of the 02 is correct range. It's the cam and carb combo seeing overlap in the AFR gauge. I tried to tune it out lean to see if was real numbers and guess what it isn't. If went leaner to make the AFR in what you'd think was "normal" she was bog flat and you could blip the throttle just sitting and hear it wasn't getting fuel it wanted. This is where old school tuning is in full effect; low and midrange tuning using your ear and a vacuum gauge is much more accurate. At idle just set the screws to highest readings and ear to blip and see if responsive. Can stare at the AFR gauge all ya want, it's gonna be what it's gonna be Off idle it looks rich but my plugs tell a different, and the whole story. True running a good set of plugs and hot ignition can seem to fire through mud ie rich conditions, but it's not complaining one bit. After a few hard hard WOT runs with a full tank of gas, I immediately shut it off. Let cool and checked the plugs. These plugs have been used since the start of running and all the tuning episodes so there is some residual left over oops tuning around the edges. But the center and even browning look I'll take it as a win. My plug selection looks bang on IMO; Iridium Denso IW27's. I knew this heat range due to that's what I run in the M3 motor. A bit of cheating on that.

    BTW for anyone having trouble removing emulsion tubes. Some have methods and I tried them all even the bamboo skewers. Best and absolute method is just run a 3mm tap in the center hole. Can tap until the tube turns in the bore or feels like bottoms out usually about 3-4 threads in. Then pull. With my emulsion tubes all tapped with 3mm thread at the top I then change over and over using just a 3mm x about 25mm long bolt and some vise grips to clamp the top. Pull easy as ever to change them while on the car.

    Checked a bunch of items while on stands again. Stuff's still tight and looks good so far. It's had a few 180 turning burnouts and wheel hops Just testing man just testing

    Idles 50
    Main 180
    Air 210
    E tubes F66
    Neddle 200
    Power valve -3 coils















    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  9. #509
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,126
    My Cars
    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Dad is back in town. Took him for a quick spin in front of the house before heading to dinner yesterday. This morning we went trailer shopping . May be picking one up this week. Decided by time I make my own material cost it's barely worth the man hours.

    Jets finally came in to try a couple other combos in mind to see if gain anything. If need more bought a drill set and pen drill as backup plan. Don't think I'll need it though. Put the 250 main needle in. Decided since so low wanted to brace the header flange to the motor. In case it takes a direct hit hopefully helps save the mount studs on the head. Kind of a skid plate style. Yes pain in rear if need to pull the trans I realized but may make a revision later Like bolt in between.

    First oil change down, and added the drain plug oil temp sender.

    Some ATC breaker style fuses to keep from having to dig for a fuse at the track. Just one of those details where a check of the circuit and a push of a button will be much easier. I'll have fuses too but this just helps take pressure off. . . click.

    Already destroyed the front splitter on a rock in the driveway. A few hard brakes with Dad in the car is making me rethink raising the front ride height just another 1/2". Bought some button head bolts for the underside to keep from taking asphalt with me under hard braking.

    Not a pretty job, but whipped up a surge tank. Decided to just make it larger to give a bit extra capacity of fuel in the process. It's 8in square so just at 2.2gal. Figured could use a bit of rear weight so just made out of 1/8" plate. Bungs are the same 3/4 moly tubing tapped and threaded with 1/4 fittings JB welded as they were installed. Slight small baffle at the inlet and pump outlets to attempt to trap majority of fuel there. I hated welding it cause my helmet head band broke giving me a new challenge for the day. Eventually I broke out the old school speed glas helmet. It's older so doesn't have as many sensors for the shield. Works good on the bench but difficult under a car with objects in the way. It doesn't like that.















    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  10. #510
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    NC
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    2,126
    My Cars
    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Think i've finalized jetting today. Topend is right where I want. It felt flat to me, and once upped it a bit more I was right. Pulled in after WOT a few times, and immediately thought don't touch anything


    Idles 50
    Main 190
    Air 215
    E tubes F66
    Needle 250
    Power valve -3 coils



    Some splitter carnage. Typical when try to run on a road with dips and bumps. Especially up my road with serious incline and tight turns. It's only plywood so by design meant to throw away cheap make another for less than $30. Bolts were about gone. Replaced with the button heads. Will work on raising the front edge with the adjusters on the clip first. If not enough I'll have to raise ride height a bit.




    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  11. #511
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,126
    My Cars
    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Went to adjust the splitter turn buckles and noticed my 1/8 baby rivets didn't handle the hit well. A lot of the rivets were broken. Well the headlights buckets welded on interfered with moving up of the aluminum front panels anyways. I must of forgot about that. So re-engimeneered the front clip. 3/16 beef rivets and notched the aluminum around the lights so could move all the way up when move the turn buckles. Now it can move lowest to 1/4 beer can height or about 1.25" off ground level to 3" or just above 1/2 beer can height. Sweet; might not raise ride height after all





    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  12. #512
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Montana/Washington
    Posts
    457
    My Cars
    75 2002 77 323irace 91M5
    One of the most rugged splitters I made for my old cheater car , was made with 1/8 bending poplar plywood core. Two Kevlar layers on the bottom and two carbon layers on top ,and a steel wire rod leading edge. Layed up with the same high impact height flexibility epoxy I use to make surfboards.

    The thing would cut cones in half if I hit them at high speed .

    I never broke it till the car was totaled in a bad crash .

    I have a idea for a splitter for my 2002 street car .0.125" bending poplar Plywood core , 0.125" bonded and fastened polypropylene sheet bottom. Triaxial glass top. U channel Steel leading edge.

    You should try to find a steel u channel that fits around the leading edge of your plywood . Epoxy or resin saturate it at a minimum to keep it from splitting.


    I could make you some ultra light glass door shins .
    Last edited by hdx; 04-03-2018 at 04:12 PM. Reason: it needs better doors

  13. #513
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
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    NC
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    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Quote Originally Posted by hdx View Post
    I one of the most rugged splitters I made for my old cheater car , was made with 1/8 bending poplar plywood core. Two Kevlar layers on the bottom and two carbon layers on top ,and a steel wire rod leading edge. Layed up with the same high impact height flexibility epoxy I use to make surfboards.

    The thing would cut cones in half if I hit them at high speed .

    I never broke it till the car was totaled in a bad crash .

    I have a idea for a splitter for my 2002 street car .0.125" bending poplar Plywood core , 0.125" bonded and fastened polypropylene sheet bottom. Triaxial glass top. U channel Steel channel leading edge.

    You should try to find a steel u channel that fits around the leading edge of your plywood . Epoxy or resin saturate it at a minimum to keep it from splitting.

    I could make you some ultra light shin doors .
    Hey man
    I figured you had a composite one since in the business. My bro may hook me up with some starboard since he's into sailboats. The stuff is like what they use for helm tops panels etc. Last thing I'd use is the all known alumilite cardboard looking aluminum for signs. Have to fill the edge in with epoxy cause it's a wafer. If one takes a hit it folds and bends usually ending up in the engine bay wrecking havoc on just about everything. . . cut hoses, wires, maybe even fuel lines. Plywood or composites for the win.

    I usually rim the front edge with aluminum angle/channel, but haven't this time. I will on the next one.
    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  14. #514
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
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    NC
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    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Last min decision. Signed up and drove the 320 across town Tuesday night. Wanted to run autocross with my old local club I first started with. Now we're officially full circle with the car. It was a night event. Dad and I both put some runs in to learn the car and how to drive autocross again. I think every run we had someone wanting to ride with us which makes it that much more fun. I got one run in by myself to see how the car corner balance was; since it's setup for just driver weight. Still crunching the video but plan to post a run or two up pretty soon. Had no idea how the car would really behave to sling the rear end around. Didn't know for sure if it would stick or completely lose it. The turn radius is wide (widened front track width) but steering response is quick. Sure the roll centers are adjusted to stick in the rear (low) and nimble in front (high), but the rear end weight is super light to me. Only one way to find out was just run it.

    It drove about 30min each way to the event. The trailer wasn't here yet so took to the streets Hey I had my lights and signals.

    We learned a few things doing this shake down at the autocross. One is of course the car is a ton of fun behind the wheel. I ran the federal RR's as low as 28psi, and they seemed to really like it just like R comps do. After a few hot runs fueling was getting loaded up. Noticed idling afterwards was making it rich and not wanting to clear. The throttle was wanting to hold revs to clear the low end before launching off the line. At one point I had to adjust the idle screws in a bit to get response back or it stalled. It seemed was just loading up with fuel on the end of the runs and it was piling up idling back to the pits. It lived but I'll be messing with jetting a bit more. May even have to have a setup for autox and another for track not sure yet. First instinct is to try without the power valve again with same jetting to see if better. Other than fuel it really felt quick and stuck when on the go pedal. Steering was unexpectedly better than I imagined and took getting used to. Of course probably play with rear roll center cause that's why built in adjustment, but overall it was great and very good right out the box. Tire wear was perfect with the 28psi rolling just to the edges in the rear. Overall we were impressed, and apparently so were a few others. I felt the lines we took were more to see how the car could do than to stay focused on taking a good line to be fast. It still was quick on times even horsing around which says a lot to me.

    Anyways today we went and picked up the trailer. Brought home and took an old tie bar from the tractor to make a custom hitch. Needed the tractor to bring up my driveway cause more maneuverability. I'll move to another spot but right now it's occupied with firewood for next winter. For now parked in the front. Plan to mod it with rollers and a winch. Probably some deck stain on the boards, a tool box or tire holder maybe both. Maybe mods to the ramps also. Least has the dovetail back. Nothing fancy but hey it's my first ever trailer. I've always drove to and from events, so this is completely new to me. Never had the luxury to just winch it on and go home in a comfy truck.





    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  15. #515
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Savannah, GA
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    240
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    83 320i 00 540i6 85 535i
    Great stuff- thanks for the update!

  16. #516
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
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    NC
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    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Finally chopped these up to upload real quick. Short course, but fun



    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  17. #517
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Montana/Washington
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    457
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    75 2002 77 323irace 91M5
    Nice work the engine seems like it makes good low end torque.

    I had similar problems with the loading up after runs and inconsistent afr with different temperature.

    I felt that it was from not having the cooling water run to the intake . And a dead headed fuel pump with a little to much fuel pressure. 3 psi seems best.

    I like to run the smallest needle valve I can for good wot performance . Also minimal float drop for good performance.

    This helps to maintain a more stable afr. Eliminate Stalling in high g corners and float jamming.

  18. #518
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
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    NC
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    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Quote Originally Posted by hdx View Post
    Nice work the engine seems like it makes good low end torque.

    I had similar problems with the loading up after runs and inconsistent afr with different temperature.

    I felt that it was from not having the cooling water run to the intake . And a dead headed fuel pump with a little to much fuel pressure. 3 psi seems best.

    I like to run the smallest needle valve I can for good wot performance . Also minimal float drop for good performance.

    This helps to maintain a more stable afr. Eliminate Stalling in high g corners and float jamming.
    Yes the manifold "fuel vaporizer" (base) is hooked up and has fluid from back the head through it to the water pump. Works really well, and I know we did discuss this during the build. I had the same issues so also decided this time to use the manifold as it was intended to minimize fuel pooling.
    I feel the 250 needle will help on track days seeing WOT constantly to keep the bowl full. Also set the float to keep the bowl a bit higher say 34mm instead of 35mm with the plastic float. Making sure the needle leaves the seat 2mm on full float swing from rest.


    HMMMMMmmm, been messing with it today a bit cause weather is decent between rain. Just didn't seem right and have developed a miss now too at high revs almost like the limiter is malfunctioning. Idle is just not stable and after messing with the carb now fingers pointing to ignition. Put the timing light on it. . . shhhhh it's only 4 degrees advance now at idle. Somehow the distributor either slipped cause wasn't super tight, or the advance mechanism wasn't fully in static return spot somehow when first set. I'm betting the distributor moved somehow I may not of tightened it up enough. Soon as moved it back to 14-15 degrees at idle it was a raped ape. Idle was steady and could turn the idle speed to about nothing Also could turn out the idle jets again much richer Yup it's faster at low end now than in the vids haha facepalm

    Went out and still a limit feeling miss at high revs right at about 5500-6000 it sputters. Will toss in a fresh set of plugs for good measure when the weather allows. Storms moving in tomorrow so can't finish this. The Safeguard made no difference disconnected so it's not causing it. After plugs I'll then disconnect the digital pertronix limiter to see if culprit. If not I'll point all fingers to the ignitor itself in the distributor.
    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  19. #519
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
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    NC
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    My Cars
    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Rained last night and today pavement was dry. Was diving in on the bench to see what in world is happening. Took apart TEP's 009 distributor to inspect the advance mechanism and what appeared to be a spring popped off. Well made btw, would recommend one if looking for the Tii speedy advance ignition curve. These are machined brand smack new every part.

    Clamped back in with a fresh set of plugs and disconnected the pertronix limiter box. Fired up after ballparked the distributor position. Put the light on it and set back to 14-15 deg idle. Once hot checked again and went to tighten the distributor bolt. And . . . it was stripped right where it would give most clamping Replaced with a grade 8 1/4-20 bolt, washers, and nut. Sucka ain't going nowhere now.

    WOT pulls just fine no misses or sputtering at all. Temp hooked up the limiter box. Seemed to run the same so went to WOT pull and see if hit the limiter. It wanted to go to the moon and wasn't working. Hooked up the tach wire to the limiter box and the car died. Think the limit box is shorted somewhere. Hey it's about 18yrs old and lived inside the car for years outside with mice etc in the glovebox. Maybe time to pony up for a new one. Screams to 7500 rpm without sounding like i'm hunting for duck.

    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  20. #520
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,126
    My Cars
    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Already welding on the new trailer. Put HD rear rollers on the dovetail so it can't scrape if backing on small inclines Bought them from my trailer guy and they have grease fittings. He offered to put them on for me, but told him I'd buzz them on.

    Surge tank is probably dry (been about 8 days). I pressure tested it with air before the POR sealer steps. It held about 30psi for a few minutes so went ahead sealed it. Put it in today and will test with real fuel see if any leaks. Once works out I'll check with a full fuel load and re balance the car since now 2 gal or so will always be in this gives a bit more rear weight. I guesstimate about adding 30lbs to the offset driver which is the lightest corner. BMW engineers know whats up with the battery far rear corner. Sure it offsets driver weight but it's furthest from the rear axle line which gives effective more weight to that corner. I'm adding my tank closer to the axle line so not a big change. Not a pendulum either

    Should never have issues with fuel even when the main tank runs bone dry. I've a 1.5L surge tank in the M3 for track days that works real well. This is basically the same with about 2gal capacity. Keeps continuous air free fuel head on the main pump and minimizes slosh.


    Looked on the shelf and have two pertronix flamethrower ecore coils for the M3 with 0.5 ohm primary resistance. We've 3 ohm now to be safe with the unknown distributor ignitor. Ordered a Pertronix ignitor II, and another limiter box. I looked at the Ignitor III but decided nope don't want that. Will install the 0.5 coil to maximize output with the ignitor II since it can handle down to 0.45 ohms.





    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  21. #521
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,126
    My Cars
    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Dropped in a Pertronix ignitor II which has dwell adaptation. After a bit of research I'm using part number 91847A (non vacuum distributor). I may of misspoke earlier and think this distributor is a model after the Tii 013. Either way it has quick advance (light springs) and weights for full advance about 3k rpm. Allowed to install part number 60104 Pertronix coil @0.45 ohm primary. Was using the 60130 @3.0 ohm due to the unknown ignitor to be safe not burning it out (similiar to the standard ignitor I from Pertronix, or Hotspark units). Also put in a new Pertronix limiter box again model 600 like I somehow had fail on me after 18yrs.

    Primed the surge tank jumping the feed carter pump with a battery. Pumped about a 1/2 gal out the main line to purge if anything small was in there. Kinda doubt it cause the sealer hardens like concrete. No fuel leaks, so hooked up hot and fired to life.

    It really seems to like the setup. Few WOT pulls and played with distributor timing to see if any further gains. Ended up back at where I was with idle @14 degrees and 36 total after 3k rpm. Just gets that last bit to redline fastest. Any less total advance was a touch quicker from 4-6k but died off near 6k revs. Took a bit of hang time to hit the limiter at 7500. Really likes 36 degrees total.

    So now that everything is working as it should, this is where something is gonna break or wear out. Another fitting titled beer for this weekend. My parents came in from FL area and were talking about it. Just so happens it just hit my shelves at the local store. Good stuff worth a try. Yes titled after the game.

    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  22. #522
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,126
    My Cars
    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Needed longer trailer ramps. You've seen the boards people put on the end of the stock ramps. Made another trip to my local steel place. Gives easily another 3+ft, folds inside the stock ramps that way still fits inside the trailer ramp storage area. Not to shabby.

    Mocked up with some 1/2" bolts laying around. Will buy some the shorter length we need. Slapping a coat of rustoleum on them now.






    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  23. #523
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Corona California
    Posts
    4,313
    My Cars
    79 320/6 81320i 65malibu
    WOW - WOW and WOW !!!

    Did I say WOW?!

    Great progress going on Judy - love the videos. Like the DIY ramp idea. Two years ago I dumped the steel ramps and went with some 5' aluminum ramps to make it easier on my back. Just spent three days working on the trailer (loading car on it) to cut down on the "hassle factor". Going to the track is just too much work with about 1.5 hours of loading )plus tools, tires, extra parts, tying down so on and so on. Anyway looks like I will be taking our car out for the first time since last June this Friday - going to take it out to Adams kart track for some testing and tuning.

    You have made me want to get behind the wheel again Judy! Thanks.

    Always FUN TO DRIVE - Build Thread & Tech info - 79 320/6 track car build thread -- Videos of track car -Adam in car Auto-x video - Start-up video - 4/2011 Adam's TOP BMW time San Diego BMWCCA - 4-5-15 Dyno break-in run new M20B25 - Exhaust Thread - Link

  24. #524
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,126
    My Cars
    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Quote Originally Posted by OLD MAN View Post
    WOW - WOW and WOW !!!

    Did I say WOW?!

    Great progress going on Judy - love the videos. Like the DIY ramp idea. Two years ago I dumped the steel ramps and went with some 5' aluminum ramps to make it easier on my back. Just spent three days working on the trailer (loading car on it) to cut down on the "hassle factor". Going to the track is just too much work with about 1.5 hours of loading )plus tools, tires, extra parts, tying down so on and so on. Anyway looks like I will be taking our car out for the first time since last June this Friday - going to take it out to Adams kart track for some testing and tuning.

    You have made me want to get behind the wheel again Judy! Thanks.
    Thanks Daryl it's been a fun build to finally see pavement. You know all those times I can think back when I've been away. . . sometimes not even in a tent . I was inspired a lot by your and Brendans cars. So thank you guys giving ideas and helping us. I'd have collections of other build photos I would constantly browse when break out a laptop for down time. Dad pushed the button to get this moving, and I'm glad he did. He's already talking another set of wheels with some dotR's mounted for dedicated track days. For sure was looking at aluminum atv ramps due to weight. It is a lot of prep work, but I don't like wrenching on my car at the track if can help it. I like being prepared ahead, and fix only if needed.
    Updates should be slower now in theory. You guys get back out there, this stuff is too much fun
    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  25. #525
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,126
    My Cars
    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    More trailer work.

    New Dewalt grinder. My old one that built the car just suddenly stopped. Brushes looked ok, and so did the commutator actually. Think the motor gave up the ghost. Didn't spill any beer over it and just tossed aside cause it's been through a lot.

    Harbor Freight 3500 Badland winch; +nylon rope kit conversion. Car hasn't been driven up the ramps and I'd rather save the clutch. Planned a winch in the trailer budget. Almost bought a Warn, but plenty seem to have good luck with HF Badland.

    Welded the 3/16 winch mount plate onto the front 3/16 steel face of the trailer. Noticed it needed re-enforcement so made a nice huge gusset for the winch. It was flexing the entire front edge, but now very solid tying into the heavy channel for the tongue and main rails. Made a battery tray and holder. Dad mounted the electrics in weather boxes. We will pickup some marine battery terminals, but for now taped on connections for testing

    Checked tongue weight empty trailer and then with position of the car on it. Found sweet spot and marked with tape on the fender. Another use for a ruggles scale.
    With position found now to mod for D rings on the floor to grab the cross beams of steel underneath the floor boards.
    Dad laid some scrap boards on the lower ramps and we actually could just get the car on with the front end still attached. Probably still going to carry some boards to make life simpler after all.

    Winch works well and actually pretty impressive I'd add. Cabling for it is very beefy and braided copper which we were surprised.











    Last edited by autox320; 04-22-2018 at 08:08 PM.
    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

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