Return of an Original Gangsta

[autox320]

here's the sequel Return of an Original Gangsta





Details

-Front end;
3 Days after assessing the damage beers in hand I leveled the chassis using jack stands and shims. Levels on driver door sill (straightest side), rear subframe, front rails at the body along with the dash roll bar(was welded in level of chassis when made as a reference). Then cut off the entire front end at the rails where it still measured square. Capped the rails making sure they were still square to the rear subframe, and made an entire new front end. Used 1"x1/8" square tubing. This is possible by referencing the frame dimensions. Mainly the most important dimension which is rear subframe mount pins to front control arm holes location. Also took lots of reference measurements. The next important one of those was a floor reference to the driver control arm hole/subframe bottom. This way I have a starting point in dimensional space of the current front Roll center. From there I could locate the new setup position. Another neat reference was a mark made 1" from the corner of the driver subframe. Plumb bob hung from there to give a single dot on the floor. When done was able to hit that same dot. No lasers, just measuring tape. Using the same measuring tape so no discrepancies from using two tapes.

Results
Measurements during setup and alignment were on target. Set front control arms parallel. When went to balance it after initial camber caster setup it was sitting at 50.6% cross weights or about 1 full turn of a rear sleeve to make exactly 50%. Seeing mirrored alignment measurements was also a good sign and confirmed its square..
added another +0.25" roll center when welding the rails on (1.25" up total on subframe hole now from stock). Keeping the original 1" wider total front track width as before. Engine another 1/2" back making it 6.25" total back from stock; tidier front suspension mounting
all with less than 1/2 the weight of the original front end (53 lbs vs 24 lbs)
-had to shorten driveshaft another 1/2" to match and go in
-Shortened passenger strut to remove the bend took another 2" out of it. Driver side to match. Still have 1.25" of front droop
-replaced front brake lines (they also needed to be shorter)
-Shortened sway links to match new position
-improved steering rack mount brackets w/ larger bolts and nordlocks
-all new heims, sphericals, wheel bearings
-improved new engine mounts dtm style
-e30 318 upper (alu) and lower (steel) oil pans; welded in a vertical baffle (pan weighs same as alu@5lbs)
was difficult to find a replacement pan with this bolt pattern. Only ones are e30m3 and e30 318 (m10). The M3 pan was out of the question due to cost of $700, so the e30 one was sourced from a nice Gentleman out of Belarus for $225 shipped.

-punched the bottom dent out of the fuel tank; welded in a new top holding the sending unit so it can't leak again in a crash; also welded in a steel pickup tube
-marine grade filler hoses for main tank
-lighter 1/2gal surge tank out of sheet metal with 3/8" feed all the way to carb needle valve
-new 3/8 main fuel line; had enough left over from the roll to run one more time
-radiator, oil cooler, fuel tanks all pressure tested and OK (really surprised on the oil cooler)

Motor
-engine was shut down early enough NO damage
-pulled it without turning over, put on the stand, removed plugs and put upside down to drain all water out; poured in marvel mystery oil and some atf into plug holes, rotated it by hand a few times then came back to it later in the build. From what I saw and measured later didn't look like any bent valves or rods etc; checked over everything and buttoned back together with new head hardware
-new rocker shafts
-new KM Cams steel rocker arms blueprinted profiled and polished to match all 100g each
-new chromoly dual spring retainers blueprinted 20g each
-new IE dual spring set
-new IE ordered Cleveland MLS gasket; M10 style correct coolant path w/ S14 93.4bore; compression now 13.6:1
-yet another different camshaft is on order to try maybe April sometime whenever it arrives (ordered 10Feb)

-Dad and I pulled out dents using the winch on the truck and chain to frame off a large tree; I welded ubolts to chunks of 1" tube, then the tube tacked onto places that needed pulling. Hammered and massaged the rest out; not perfect but it's a race car Rear wheel well back to original clearance inside was most important. Front A pillar pushed down around the cage tube. Dad fixed it with just a crowbar. When he did it pulled the roof back where it needed to be. If rolled without a cage I feel the car would have completely folded around me.
-ordering coated polycarbonate windshield; safer if in another crash and keeps the weight down

[jaredmac11]

Man, this is really impressive stuff.
Between the front end refab and just landing her in the river. Well done, bravo

Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

[jaredmac11]

Joking aside glad you're well and was able to rebound expressly


Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

[autox320]

Man, this is really impressive stuff.
Between the front end refab and just landing her in the river. Well done, bravo

Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

Thanks, it's been a hell of a come back. Basically beers in hand came up with a plan and went for it. Few hours each day after work and weekends. I took some long walks in between with the wife. It's finished and my liver is also thanking me for it

Joking aside glad you're well and was able to rebound expressly


Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

Yeah thanks, that someone was lookin out for me. I feel my passed family members too.
No damage to me and capable meant time to soldier up and get this thing back in action.

[Rushfan1]

Very impressive work, congratulations.

[mjweimer]

That is an impressive amount of work done in a relatively short time. Really enjoyed the video and especially enjoyed looking at how you put the front end together - outstanding.

Those KM rockers look the business. Wise move making safety improvements as well as tweaks to the suspension, engine location, etc. Too bad that the incident happened but you made the most of it on the backside.

[autox320]

That is an impressive amount of work done in a relatively short time. Really enjoyed the video and especially enjoyed looking at how you put the front end together - outstanding.

Those KM rockers look the business. Wise move making safety improvements as well as tweaks to the suspension, engine location, etc. Too bad that the incident happened but you made the most of it on the backside.

Very impressive work, congratulations.

Thanks.




Yes the rockers. From searching I've seen steel rockers before but early versions. Always wanted some due to how I run the engine. Apparently they use to have steel rockers in early formula engines. Looking and inquiring around I concluded the ones to buy are KM Cams. Looked at Ireland Engineering, Lester Owen, Schrick, Cat Cams, VAC motorsports which all sell versions of aftermarket rockers. Prices vary wildly and some of even the best names you'd expect have had catastrophic failures. The KM Cams have a good rep in this area with racers. But they are steel; early versions were heavy and racers would lighten them. KM listened and has since revised them to reasonable weight to keep from running high spring pressures on the nose/seat. Wide full foot profile already angled entry and exit for the largest largest cam lobes with steep ramps. Solid one piece with no pad or foot to fail. Very stout and appear to be a powder sintered alloy steel. They are hard as nails to sand yet I'm told don't eat cam lobes. I used a harbor freight bench belt sander taking off small amounts at a time to match them. They came to me 100.5g-103g each so shot for all 100g each.

Honestly cost wasn't a factor at first cause how critical this part is, but came surprisingly cheaper than any other option so purchase was a no brainer to me. It's one of those areas in a BMW part world the larger price should be best right? Nope not here or other areas for that matter. Inquiry to KM Cams current price was 3500 NOK (Kroner) shipped to my door with exchange rate at the time I purchased was $410 USD via paypal. Amazing quality product for that price. I feel the custom cam I want to try next will warrant them if can get the carb to cooperate. I've two additional cams I'd like to try for options, but shooting for the largest first naturally If it's as advertised the lift alone will warrant steel rockers even with a small bearing standard head. Can't wait to see actual numbers on the degree wheel to confirm specs. None of it may work so option 2 is only a step under we'll see.

My stock 77' rockers were 85g each.
IE's HD rockers 90g each.
Profiled KM Cams 100g each

[autox320]

We ran first in the morning, was cold with cross winds up to 20mph. After the morning session, the other group just started to get tire grip. Weather was mid 30's low 40's ie no/low traction
Motor is healthy as ever Was a good test day anyways. Managed 4th overall 0.8 sec off the lead.

[mjweimer]

Thanks.




Yes the rockers. From searching I've seen steel rockers before but early versions. Always wanted some due to how I run the engine. Apparently they use to have steel rockers in early formula engines. Looking and inquiring around I concluded the ones to buy are KM Cams. Looked at Ireland Engineering, Lester Owen, Schrick, Cat Cams, VAC motorsports which all sell versions of aftermarket rockers. Prices vary wildly and some of even the best names you'd expect have had catastrophic failures. The KM Cams have a good rep in this area with racers. But they are steel; early versions were heavy and racers would lighten them. KM listened and has since revised them to reasonable weight to keep from running high spring pressures on the nose/seat. Wide full foot profile already angled entry and exit for the largest largest cam lobes with steep ramps. Solid one piece with no pad or foot to fail. Very stout and appear to be a powder sintered alloy steel. They are hard as nails to sand yet I'm told don't eat cam lobes. I used a harbor freight bench belt sander taking off small amounts at a time to match them. They came to me 100.5g-103g each so shot for all 100g each.

Honestly cost wasn't a factor at first cause how critical this part is, but came surprisingly cheaper than any other option so purchase was a no brainer to me. It's one of those areas in a BMW part world the larger price should be best right? Nope not here or other areas for that matter. Inquiry to KM Cams current price was 3500 NOK (Kroner) shipped to my door with exchange rate at the time I purchased was $410 USD via paypal. Amazing quality product for that price. I feel the custom cam I want to try next will warrant them if can get the carb to cooperate. I've two additional cams I'd like to try for options, but shooting for the largest first naturally If it's as advertised the lift alone will warrant steel rockers even with a small bearing standard head. Can't wait to see actual numbers on the degree wheel to confirm specs. None of it may work so option 2 is only a step under we'll see.

My stock 77' rockers were 85g each.
IE's HD rockers 90g each.
Profiled KM Cams 100g each

Great info - thanks for sharing. Given the construction method and reasonable cost, this seems like an excellent alternative anything else on the market. Yet another item to add to the list for my next engine build.

[autox320]

2022 Day 3 and 4 events. Day 3 was the morning and snowed, way too cold and full wet conditions for any tire heat. It was pretty pitiful for an autocross lol. On top of that a unlucky V8 miata puked steering fluid around the entire course on the race line. Might as well been ice

After some dry sweep on the start line and a bunch of tire scrapping from cars the line cleared up. Afternoon was event #4. The pavement turned that nice dry looking grey color even though it was still cold and snowing at least it dried out.

So put together a final run that almost caught the Cobra but he got me by 0.5sec and 2nd overall for the day. Now this was a fast course setup. The Cobra blew up his previous engine late last year. It now has a nice built 408 motor. Said he's making 150 more hp than last year. I was like damn man and yup it's blazing fast with torque like never before on sticky 315's all around.

The 2022 Tesla was on my heels by 0.08sec. Shows the power of torque vectoring in track mode. Honestly he's on some factory style tires doing this and ordered a new set of the new hotness Yoko A052 (new hottest autox tire this season). Still impressed and makes ya think a bit on all this car modding vs just buying good tires and wrecking most of the field with a "iphone on wheels". But we do this for fun and hold our own with the old home built 2bbl carb car.

[autox320]

Beers and buzzed; buzzed on some more aluminum together to put the front back on so could put the hood back on. Mounted a quick release 2.5lb ABC extinguisher. Mounted a 24x24 skid plate using an old aluminum road sign.






Hauled the car to a shop for full inspection. Never thought we'd get one of these but guess better late than never. . . SCCA log book. Super Production Under class. (SPU; cars that don't fit SCCA GT rules but under 3 liters NA). Tech looked at the front end was like yup tube; looked under rear was like . . ."yeah that's normal" with a smile . We Joined the Appalachian hillclimb series. Back in the day there was Chimney Rock hillclimb in my area and the Blue Ridge hillclimb. Times have changed but some old timers have mustered together another series.
So far AHS have three event venues secured with three more in the works for a total of 6 events per year. Summit racing has jumped on board to sponsor along with SCCA. Gonna try it out. Dad and I always dreamed of running the hillclimb events since we spectated late 90's and early 2000's.

Plan is to sign up for the Dragon Hillclimb late July. Mean time still waiting for the new camshaft to see if can squeeze more out of our setup. Shipping times are not working out that's for sure but it's still in cue.

[hdx]

You need some twin sidedraft carbs . With that much compression and a big cam The single down draft is going to limit the torque and high rpm power . So much easier to tune and jet side drafts as well . I ran a single downdraft for many years because of the prepared rules only . Guys in b sedan do it but it’s a dumb rule .
Save your money buy them over time . Get the manifold from http://www.mangoletsimanifolds.com/manifolds/bmw.html
Congrats on saving the car.
I waded one up badly and couldn’t save it. It took along time to get my new car sorted to be as good as the old car .
I like to shotpeen and blue print the factory rockers . Never broke one . The only rockers I have broken are the ie hd rockers . trashed a very nice m20 885 head that I had 40 hours of port and chamber work in . The ks rockers are nice . A little overkill but the larger pad makes it worth it . I have a set in my m20 powered race car .

[autox320]

You need some twin sidedraft carbs . With that much compression and a big cam The single down draft is going to limit the torque and high rpm power . So much easier to tune and jet side drafts as well . I ran a single downdraft for many years because of the prepared rules only . Guys in b sedan do it but it’s a dumb rule .
Save your money buy them over time . Get the manifold from http://www.mangoletsimanifolds.com/manifolds/bmw.html
Congrats on saving the car.
I waded one up badly and couldn’t save it. It took along time to get my new car sorted to be as good as the old car .
I like to shotpeen and blue print the factory rockers . Never broke one . The only rockers I have broken are the ie hd rockers . trashed a very nice m20 885 head that I had 40 hours of port and chamber work in . The ks rockers are nice . A little overkill but the larger pad makes it worth it . I have a set in my m20 powered race car .

Yup we know. Typing with a broken finger. If went sidedrafts would just go EFI for the same price and much more tunability.
Like a pair of these https://www.ebay.com/itm/18501720501...sAAOSw53VhJzh8
microsquirt and injectors but total $ isn't in the budget. Nor do I feel like fooling with tuning when the 38 is dead simple. So we'll be limited with a 38/38 to about 180hp give or take. Honestly the limit will be fuel feed or bowl limit. Moving to sidedrafts is mainly due to dual bowls IMO. I feel the 38/38 has more midrange than sidedrafts. Still waiting on this new camshaft to try and max out the 38/38. It should with similar overlap specs(LSA) to the schrick304 but much larger lift over duration profile more suited for the 2.3L

sidebar cause too early for cracking beers here yet
The IE302 cam was a super lazy 118.5 LSA. Not sure what they were thinking but maybe more street cam version 304. It was just way too damn slow. Then again nobody can seem to honestly tell me what LSA the 304 has (they assume it's 108) I suspect it is but nobody can give me their measurements.

TEPs 294 still comes out on top so far. 110 LSA and measured at 0.1mm it's a honest 300in/294ex camshaft. Even though it's only 9mm valve lift it's much quicker with more meat under the curve than a few other cams tried so far.

Honestly after the cam if goes well moving to wider tires (245s) and thats the end plans for this car far as upgrades. Time to move back to the M3 by winter I hope. Entire topend parts came in last month but long ways to go before I build that redo that engine. The world is forcing other priorities at the moment.

[hdx]

I just picked up a triple set for 600 in excellent condition. They are around for a reasonable price.

I get going to efi instead. I have my m5 with S38 running on mega squirt, and I like it a lot. Riding around tuning with a laptop is nice . But it was very expensive. Lots of dyno time to safety tune it. Computers are dumb they need a smart person to tell them what to do , and make sure the computer does what it was told. The self tuning is nice but it still gets it wrong.

The tuning is simple on the dcoe all the jets & etubes are right on top. Under a thumb screw , takes seconds to change jetting . The dcoe is simpler than the 38.

Its more than just twin bowls.

The 38 having more mid range is a myth.

All the old timers will tell you you need side drafts to run the Schrick 304 . I think ie was trying to make a 304 to work in the stock head with a single down draft for the b sedans in vara .

Why not bias slicks. instead of dot 245s ? 245 may need flares.

[autox320]

I just picked up a triple set for 600 in excellent condition. They are around for a reasonable price.

I get going to efi instead. I have my m5 with S38 running on mega squirt, and I like it a lot. Riding around tuning with a laptop is nice . But it was very expensive. Lots of dyno time to safety tune it. Computers are dumb they need a smart person to tell them what to do , and make sure the computer does what it was told. The self tuning is nice but it still gets it wrong.

The tuning is simple on the dcoe all the jets & etubes are right on top. Under a thumb screw , takes seconds to change jetting . The dcoe is simpler than the 38.

Its more than just twin bowls.

The 38 having more mid range is a myth.

All the old timers will tell you you need side drafts to run the Schrick 304 . I think ie was trying to make a 304 to work in the stock head with a single down draft for the b sedans in vara .

Why not bias slicks. instead of dot 245s ? 245 may need flares.

I hear ya man. Going to use MS setup on the M3. I had a piggyback alphaN before so will be a learning curve but tuned myself before. Was 2.7L making about 280hp using schrick 292/284 cams timed at 106/100. Moving to 13.5 mahle pistons and 300+deg camsets; have two complete sets on the shelf with shim under.

Eh just downdraft on the E21 for now plus people can't believe it's a downdraft. I really like the look on their faces. I see IE does run the 304 on 38/38 in their series. So I'm planning a custom cam to max out and do the same just to see if can be done. Schrick isn't the only name when comes to cams. I'd really like to dyno or compare my 38 setup with someone's side drafts. I feel could be interesting.

245s in the Azenis 660 is the easy button. Most hillclimb guys run autox tires and top runners are using A7 Hoosiers.

Fun stuff

[autox320]

Went to big IMO. Too many steps forward so took a step back. . . for now.

Tested and tried the catcam 311/305. Largest known small bearing camshaft that fits a standard head.
Well conclusion is yep it's too big of cam. I'd second guessed it after it was too late. Before anyone asks it's been on order for so many months it's not like could cancel the order before got it. So clearance our motor mechanically to try it out. Only had to clearance a few valve pockets about .010" to get all at or over .065" @ the tightest areas near TDC.

I did get it to run and found the limit. I mean I already figured it would do this but hey lets try right. The catcam specs aren't playing around. If compared a schrick cam or any to theirs measuring at .040" for numbers.

I kinda knew was in trouble when on the degree wheel but wanted to try anyways. If direct compared to some previous cams this thing is the largest small bearing camshaft I've ever seen. If don't set the rocker lash to spec the ramps are so large even this cam can be over 340 degrees. If set lash at .003" and measured at .001" lift it's a 360deg intake lol. At .013" lash it's 311/305 @.004"/0.1mm.

Idle vacuum is max about 5in with a 38/38. Even with air bleeds. Drilled out the throttle plates with air bleeds on the leading edge. Started 1.0mm and worked up to 1.8mm. Finally got it to idle and could back out the idle screw on the stop shutting the inner barrel from dribbling (transition holes exposed). Tuned the idle jets till had response. Trimmed the PV till no dribbling out the barrels from it. Then started to tune the main curve to allow to hit redline (8k). As it approached low 13's (13.2-13.0) AFR's it got real fast, noticeably faster setup, very but thirsty. Like had to left foot brake just to dial it in with 2nd or 3rd gear.

But the main problem with too much overlap raised it head. Besides the low idle vacuum and off idle response. It was "sketchy" to drive at limit to me. Too much fuel needed and not enough carb for cfm of airflow especially when let out after. It loaded up and if came near a idle or stop it died from flooding. Plus bonus of the reversion. Literally over 5k rpm where it's thirstiest for the juice and on cam hardest there was too much LIQUID fuel puking and spraying upwards out of the carb at speed. Like a water display :o).

All in all a lesson learned and experimentation of what can do. Need less overlap with the 38 even with a 110 LSA cam. The "sport" catcam looks like most a 38 could run. I plan to order it one day in the future. By the numbers the 297 is probably equal to or greater than the schrick 304 which is right in the ballpark of maxing out a downdraft.

Measurements to most recent cams I've ran.
Direct comparison examples if measured at .001" lift (the "make it big measurement")
TEP294 dur 300in/294ex overlap 70 (lash .003") (LSA 110)
IE302 dur 314in/310ex overlap 80 (lash .003") (was promising till measured LSA at 118.5)
CC311 dur 320in/319ex overlap 99 (lash .013") (LSA 110) (if set lash at .003" it would be off charts 360 duration and approx 155 overlap)

Direct comparison examples if measured all at .040" lift (removes the ramps); it's apparent why some don't like to measure this way.
TEP294 IO 9, IC 55, EO 53, EC 5, overlap = 14 (.003" lash)
IE302 IO 12, IC 35, EO 55, EC (-10), overlap = 2 not a typo (.003" lash) (ex lobe center at play; lazy total LSA)
CC311 IO 28, IC 59, EO 60, EC 26, overlap = 54 (.013" lash)

Max cam catcams has available that can run with a 38/38 is the 297/297 in my honest opinion. Overlap at .040" is 22 degrees. The larger ones are out of scope for downdraft and only for sidedrafts or EFI. The 301 cam being overlap of 48 (@.040) and the 311 coming in at 54 (@.040), the 297 at 22 (@.040) makes the most sense to me. I could probably get it to tune and run even if have to drill throttle plates again could probably use smaller holes like closer to 1mm and get to idle easily. Overlap overall and duration would be just over a 304 schrick depending how set lash.

Catcams 311/305 soon for sale.
Asking $400 shipped to door; firm. Big girl not to be underestimated. Check PV clearances closely.
Must have sidedrafts or ITB efi only to run.
Price is shipped to door. Recently acquired(waited 4+mo from Belgium), installed, tested. Has maybe 2mi on it during jetting of carb. Cannot run with downdraft (too much overlap)
M10 standard small bearing head fitment; right hand distributor gear.
measured @0.1mm / .004"
311 intake duration ; 11.4mm lift
305 exhaust duration; 11.45mm lift
overlap measured @ 0.1mm/.004" = 87
Spec sheet checks out for more details(.040" measurements, lash etc). Sidedrafts or ITB EFI required. Would run at least 12:1 compression minimum.
Largest small bearing camshaft I know of. PV clearance available and valve spring (block height) needs to be checked closely.
Cam is center drilled with oiling entry holes on front main bearing as a feed (m3 threaded) with exit holes at each lobe ramp entry.
Photo album here.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/t8iRWzZg8b15d3pi7









Gauging how much to take off using a deck gauge setup.





barely clears the bearing hole on install less than .002"




testing


I'll have a small clip of the only time I got it to run with minimal reversion, but the jetting wasn't to potential. It needed more fuel still and was maybe 13.5afr. Will post when edit the clip; sounds neat though. I've reverted back to the TEP294 to reassess. Definitely took the 38/38 to it's limits. Needed to pen drill some air corrector jets to make it work and it's all it can give IMO. Found the absolute limit.

[autox320]

Still ironing out some things since swapping cams around last couple weeks. Front being lighter since the rebuild, scaled full monty. Finally with driver sub 2k which is awesome. Gave dad an arm slap after rolled it on the scales.

[autox320]

Best clip I got where it wasn't spitting and puking out the barrels. Still drew fuel up out the bowl vent though

only was 13.5afr and had more to go getting faster each time; was 215 main jets with 234 air correction (19spread); threw in the towel and put the 294cam back in.

test pull 311 catcam; 13.5afr (needed 12.5)

[autox320]

Well back to the drawing board again. Actually not as bad as the river incident cause the new front end is more robust and no rocks. The skid plate did it's job as well.

No candy coating it; "buying the dip into station 14"; 1983 BMW 320 CRASH; Chasing the Dragon Hillclimb


Our first hillclimb, but not the last. Thanks to the corner workers who ran towards danger to see if I was still conscious. Also for picking my parts out of the woods, it's much appreciated. EMS, Safety, towing, was all there seconds after it happened. Only thing I wish did different besides crashing at all is should of pulled my arms in and grabbed the shoulder straps. Let's hope there's never a next time to practice.

Told Dad sorry cause he was co-driving with me. We made the best of it and stayed to spectate others smash plenty of records and collect awards. My friend Dan Johnson breaking his class record for his first time there. His nephew taking 3rd for his first ever driving competition outside of autox. Of course have to mention first meeting Cody as he was hunting for a parking spot on Friday, and watching him smashing the mtn top record. Then beat his own record the very next run driving 11/10ths in his 1970 homemade self built Camaro. From rookie to king of the hill over a weekend is a record in itself, damn right. Respect.

First run Sunday morning; was a bit wet still in sections.. Rear suspension droop 1/2" setting, setup for road course doesn't work with too hot entry over the dip leading into station 14. Car is back on stands and will live to fight another day. I measured soon as we got it back in the shop Sunday; frame is still square. Sheared and bent both front strut tubes off the hubs. Broken left rear shock launching the spring assembly into the woods. All front tube suspension sheared at the joints designed to save the frame mounts. Rear trail arms ok. Bent one wheel, damaged 3 tires. Smashed rad and oil cooler. Just not my year, but not giving up. Didn't think it would be back to beers in the shop so early in the season. Few weeks if goes well.

[I3MW]

Damn dude, sorry to hear! Glad everyone is ok and you're still going for it. Looking forward to the next phase.

[autox320]

Damn dude, sorry to hear! Glad everyone is ok and you're still going for it. Looking forward to the next phase.

Thanks; just not my year I guess. Meh car actually is ok minus the front suspension took the brunt of it. Only thing that bent on the chassis was the rad bar core support. I cut it off next morning to measure the rails, mount holes etc. Actual damage seems minimal of the core chassis. I'll have to get pics of the broken parts. It's all apart, measured, parts almost on order maybe by the weekend. Few weeks could have it back but we may do a few other addons. Better tires as well if gonna be serious. I'm just glad didn't go into the tree line. That's the part I thought ah shit for a second. All I could see is the corner worker running every time I went upside down. Good shit.

[autox320]

I know haven't posted much but been meaning to show the event damage. Almost have back together. Been working on the front mainly the struts. The tubes were damaged and the bilsteins bent. The vw shocks being a pain in the ass to find these days I decided to manually die grind out the knuckles and fit E30 bilsteins and tubes. Cause I already have a new set of e30 b8 sports and plenty of spare e30 parts. The task is taking a couple days of die grinder love but it's almost there to mock up and check my cuts of shortening tubes etc.

Thinking on the hillclimb and have to honestly wonder if the rear driver shock failed when hit the large dip. It makes sense on the way the car felt and how instantly it sent me off. It's suspect when see the bolt etc. The new setup I already fixed this issue with larger 1/2" heims welded on ie no threads. Larger 3/4"x1/8" moly mounting sleeves and bolts for the shock end to trail arm. Basically whats on the m3 setup. Added helper springs in the rear to allow adjusting droop past 3/4" and keeping tension on the spring in it's seat.



Looks way worse than it is, but damn



Hubs were removed in the pics already; they were only attached by the main control arm bolts. Car was winched on the trailer backwards cause had to keep the wheels in line. We used the beam in the garage to winch it into the shop space. The swedeged tubes are meant to break/shear at the heims so absorbs some force and keeps from damaging steering etc. You want this stuff to break away. These are common circle track IMSA tubes easily obtained by speedwaymotors.














both struts look about like this for straightness


Last weekend made up new front control arms and parts came in from speedway. Redid the rear control arms shock mounts already with new heims bolts etc. Inspected the arms heims etc. The rear stuff was perfect, the front heims etc I'm throwing all away and have all new. Of course this was all after the parts were taken off and inspected, mount points measured etc.

[Tom Cruise]

happy to see it coming back and hope you're already feeling great. It's mad impressive how fast you're back at it.

[autox320]

happy to see it coming back and hope you're already feeling great. It's mad impressive how fast you're back at it.

Thank man. Yeah not even a scratch. Barely felt the hans, next day was taking the car apart. Ambulance that checked me out initially was like "your pretty calm for having an incident like that" as he checks blood pressure. There's worse things than rolling a car on a soft bank I tell him.


Grateful have a full cage. Good idea making that road sign skid plate. Guess the "river incident" was for a reason to remake the front end better, and welded up the fuel tank. Man those damn factory tail lights are indestructible. I mean really how in the world do they keep surviving this

[autox320]

Whew the knuckles are some super forged steel. I had flash backs of drilling the control arm holes to 5/8" during the build. I know machine shop but damn it would be expensive and crazy wait times these days. Time + beers and taking the long way. This took lots of patience and an old 1980's carbide burr Dad had brought home when he retired. I bought some carbide hole saw bits but they only would put a witness mark in this stuff. So back and fourth using a jig I went from bench to drill press; 4hrs each spindle at about a 6pk a piece. I think the Germans forge cast these with some scrap railroad tracks, maybe some leftover carbide machine tools, and the wife said possibly meteorite . Sprinkled with a few dashes of coffin nails and woodpecker lips for good measure. They wore the carbide tip to about half it's size when done.

Checked angles of the tubes. Cut to what I'll need after mocking up a few times. Cut the bilsteins down as well. Just the outer tube to the limit and put about a 1/2" bump stop in there. Overall has about 3" shock travel at ride height with coil bind just behind it. Should never reach that anyways. Waiting on new bolts from Fastenal to put the front back together and plumb the new brake lines.

So here ya go, E30 B8 bilstein sports and tubes for the E30 M3/325/318is fitted to the E21 spindles. I cut up some junkyard 325is hubs for the tubes. Gussets to the tubes for good measure dtm style.