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Thread: Return of an Original Gangsta

  1. #626
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    Quote Originally Posted by OLD MAN View Post
    Sweet!

    I changed my droop the $$$$ way when I order our new rear shocks. One travel "long droop" is needed off road -jumps, not so much on road though.

    Thanks Daryl man. Yeah see a lot of high end shocks they seem to have adjustable shaft or custom cut length. Thing I've noticed though is if change ride height and no way to change the top shock mount, then the droop needs to be adjustable. The old cable and turnbuckle allows me to set cross weights then droop last and not worry about not having adjustment.

    Fronts on the other hand depend on ride height final settings and i'll probably settle on custom cut internal spacers (ones under the vw inserts).

    Thought of ya man when keep digging into these RC car related stuff. It applies to full size cars, and many don't realize how involved those RC guys get with setup adjustments.
    88 M3
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    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  2. #627
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    Back in the day R/C offroad suspension was way ahead of the real desert racers. It was much easier and cheaper for us to make and test new parts then it is for full size vehicles. When we bench tested it was literally on the bench! LOL

    "Thing I've noticed though is if change ride height and no way to change the top shock mount, then the droop needs to be adjustable." What I found was that once I figured out the best handling ride height the shock length is pretty much set. Ride height adjustments become minimal, and really should be done with an adjuster - adjustable top shock mount. Have not made any yet.

    Also not sure that droop needs to change with a ride height change? How much change in ride height are you thinking you need to make?

    This could turn into a thread on it's own . . .

    Always FUN TO DRIVE - Build Thread & Tech info - 79 320/6 track car build thread -- Videos of track car -Adam in car Auto-x video - Start-up video - 4/2011 Adam's TOP BMW time San Diego BMWCCA - 4-5-15 Dyno break-in run new M20B25 - Exhaust Thread - Link

  3. #628
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    Quote Originally Posted by OLD MAN View Post
    Back in the day R/C offroad suspension was way ahead of the real desert racers. It was much easier and cheaper for us to make and test new parts then it is for full size vehicles. When we bench tested it was literally on the bench! LOL

    "Thing I've noticed though is if change ride height and no way to change the top shock mount, then the droop needs to be adjustable." What I found was that once I figured out the best handling ride height the shock length is pretty much set. Ride height adjustments become minimal, and really should be done with an adjuster - adjustable top shock mount. Have not made any yet.

    Also not sure that droop needs to change with a ride height change? How much change in ride height are you thinking you need to make?

    This could turn into a thread on it's own . . .

    Yeah I know; here's some rambling. I've thought about making a detailed post about how I setup the car just to share my circles Once the cars final setup true probably won't change ride height again unless gain a lot of weight some how (car or me) and need to adjust cross weights.

    Basically here's my setup process. I set each coil over sleeve (changes ride height) till all front and rear roll centers are within acceptable range of a starting point. Front frame point is fixed(but was raised 1" with our new subframe), so I do this by front control arms and taped on bubble levels. Set them level or slight angled up to subframe(keeping high roll center), rear control arms angled in/down (low roll center) to the axles(RC spacers on subframe ie adjustable), but mostly overall setup in rear measured by bubble levels on the axles making sure they are up angled to diff or level(good power delivery and no exploding CV's).

    I set camber, caster, and rough toe beforehand. Camber (tire footprint) and caster(wheelbase) can throw off weights so some initial setting keeps a tighter window. If changed track widths front / rear this will need to be set first obviously since it drastically changes weight footprints and camber curves.

    Once there I then check the scales and see how I want to bring the cross weights into perfect balance. Usually you have to move some corner up or down and this is where viewing the angles at the same time determines the final decision of how to adjust the sleeves. Ride heights will be different sometimes at every corner to get cross weights perfect. This is the balance magic of corner weighing a car that makes it feel like it will do whatever you ask it on track.

    The ride height once changed determines how much droop is left with the shock travel. Most noticeable on my fronts since the shocks have limited droop. If raise a front corner it takes away droop of the shock. Same if lower it adds droop. The rears are super long droop extension so can just use the limiters to make whatever we want. This is where setting ride height paying attention to how much bump vs droop. The fronts we have to pay more attention. The rears just paying attention to how much bump there is since droop is set close to zero with the turnbuckles.

    Finding the sweet spot of lowering with ride height and where to position the shock if welding on a mount can be tricky. I did spend quite a bit of time to get it within a window where angles were in check but had available travel and with enough coil over sleeve to adjust for cross weighting.

    After all that I readjust the camber cause at different heights the static setting will change cause your in the arc of suspension travel. So I adjust the camber to be equal in the rears and then fronts at the final static ride height. Sometimes this requires circling back to check cross weights.

    Since most hacked up front engine rear wheel drive cars get too light in the rear. Front to rear bias is always an issue. Even so having lower roll center in the rear with less to zero droop in the rear is where the magic happens IMO. That's how to make it really "stick".

    Definitely learned a lot from the R/C crowd. Honestly more so than most other places. What a mouth full, need some beers to wash this down.
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  4. #629
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    "Definitely learned a lot from the R/C crowd. Honestly more so than most other places. What a mouth full, need some beers to wash this down."


    Always FUN TO DRIVE - Build Thread & Tech info - 79 320/6 track car build thread -- Videos of track car -Adam in car Auto-x video - Start-up video - 4/2011 Adam's TOP BMW time San Diego BMWCCA - 4-5-15 Dyno break-in run new M20B25 - Exhaust Thread - Link

  5. #630
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    Loading up tomorrow; heading to VIR this weekend. If anyone happens to be in the area, welcome to stop by. Wouldn't be hard to find the E21 in the crowd of cars. NASA Mid Atlantic always puts on a great event. There's always more than just HPDE going on since they have races in the schedule.

    Example here's the schedule for the weekend
    http://nasaracing.net/october-25-27-2019-vir/

    SAT
    http://nasaracing.net/wp-content/upl...aturday_v2.pdf
    SUN
    http://nasaracing.net/wp-content/upl...-Sunday_v2.pdf
    88 M3
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    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  6. #631
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    How did VIR go ?

    I wish the season wasn't over I didn't get out to the track nearly as much as I wanted to.

    But the e21 needs to be finished and possible turbo this winter.

  7. #632
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    Overall the weekend at VIR went well. Dad piloted his way around track for the first time in 50yrs since Watkins Glen.

    My group was off to a bad start. A corvette ran into a wall on the first lap of the first session of the weekend. Driver was ok, not sure about the car, I think I got one warm up lap in that session. The next one out I lost it in turn one myself. It was cool out, cold tires and brakes. Even 2 warm up laps just couldn't get enough heat. Four wheels off nothing was more like eight, either way got back on and continued.

    Later we had the issues below on my sessions (luckily not Dad's to ruin his out). The big disappointment is I spoke too soon on the IE oil cooler kit.
    Some of the run sessions were back to back. So when Dad came in I'm belting in while he puts some fuel in. I blend back on course cause my group was already out and has already completed their warm up. So blasting down a couple hot laps I had smoke pouring up through the shifter hole area. I eased out of the throttle and slow taxi'd for a minute. Maybe just some oil burning off, tire smoke, or brakes I first thought. Seemed to go away right away so I went back into it. Another big smoke cloud up the shifter hole. I slowed to a taxi speed and pointed everything by down the back straight. Came around and pit in immediately. Gauges looked good so slow crawled to my park spot and popped the hood. Few quarts of hot oil waved all over the splitter and luckily not on track. I quickly grabbed a tarp to put under the whole car (not to be charged $500 in dry sweep). Oil splash was being sucked into the trans tunnel and burned on the exhaust. The oil cooler filter adapter block was spewing oil from it's o-ring seal. I removed the cooler completely since it was the easiest way to remedy the situation. The adapter fastener nut to me is the problem. It doesn't have a shoulder to keep the adapter properly clamped to the filter housing IMO. It just rely's on the back side of a tapered hex that digs into the aluminum. I'm talking with Jeff @IE about the issue.

    Later next session I was paranoid after the oil incident. Was really giving it hell a few laps and came up from the esses making turn 10 when it sounded like something let go with debry pinking the underside and engine bay. Like nuts and bolts or something. Same time another puff of smoke. I slowed to a taxi and arm out the window to wave cars by. Made my way around oak tree to the south road to put it in the grass close as I can away from traffic. I assumed it was more oil issues maybe we didn't catch it all and was another area leaking cause had smoke. My brain went into safe mode, so got off and shut it down. Was towed back to the parking area, but turned out it was NOTHING
    Was actually a mess of gravel rocks the tires picked up at over 100mph coming around T10, The smoke was left over oil that was coated on the trans. Jacked up the car just to be sure. Wiped off the trans, then did a mental reset.

    I felt the brakes weren't consistent. Like the initial push had to go a bit to feel pressure and gauge the front lockup. My buddy Pete drove it a session and told me the exact same issue without me telling him. I told him the oldest part on the car is the original 30yr old booster. Maybe we'll be diving into that area over winter, and revisit manual brakes to test.

    That was just Saturday :o) . Dad got all his sessions in, but mine were with all the issues haha. Beers that night. Sunday morning started in heavy downpour wet rain conditions.

    I was out first so my buddy and I were close to the front of the group going out. I pointed him by in the wet and figured I'll just follow. I took moderate pace to heat up the car then started to work in some decent wet laps. Nothing ever came up behind me so was like driving on my own out there. Guess I was fast enough in the wet as everyone else . Started to seem to drizzle instead of rain. Tires felt like turn 1 could be faster so tried braking later. Went for the number 2 brake marker on T1. . . proceeded to lockup and just drive right over the the 2 marker and out in the grass backwards. Minute or so later finally saw some cars go by so got back on and drove the rest of the session under the yellow I probably created. Later found some others went off in the wet that lap also. The whole morning were off incidents so wasn't just me In the pit I shit you not pulled about 20+ lbs of cut grass out from behind the splitter and oil pan area where it collected from going backwards. The wheels also had nice coats of burning wet grass packed inside from the brakes.

    Dad's session in the wet he went out and came right back. The entire windshield fogged up so bad couldn't see.
    Conditions changed at lunch, dried out the track, and it was back to heat and humidity. Everyone around the paddock was scrambling to swap back to dry tires. We kept on our NT01's. Sticky tire conditions returned quickly so faster laps could finally be made.

    Drag raced a e36 M car down the back straight on a point by he gave me (surprised myself). Another was a cool E30 guy(Johnathan) that I actually confused by passing him, only for me to slow (oil temps cool down) pointing him by, then pass him again half a lap later. He was wondering what the hell I was doing lol. He came over to chat in the pits afterwards. He said he honestly saw the air cleaner walking up from a distance thought it was a V8. I really got a kick out of that. Last few sessions were not bad but I finally got to do a full session. I still never felt my lines were good, and I know certain turns really needed improvement, but least was having fun. Once a year just isn't enough track seat time. Held off some E46's behind me an entire session. I pointed them by several times but they never came . Kept losing them especially up the esses and straights.

    Met a few other E21 fans crowd around the car. One Gent happened to be over at the skid pad area where a drift event was going on. He had a E21 turbo drift car with M turbo motor swap and 460hp. Another was Austin from Bimmerworld who checked out the car. It was just something you don't see much anymore. We also chat quite a few times with our neighbors full of Honda Challenge guys.

    Great times, adrenaline rushes, good people, good beer, good food.
    88 M3
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    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  8. #633
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    Sounds like a track day . Glad you had fun and caught that oil issue, my e21 fogs bad in the rain. Need to devise some form of blower to blow across the windshield.

  9. #634
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    Quote Originally Posted by m60b30530i View Post
    Sounds like a track day . Glad you had fun and caught that oil issue, my e21 fogs bad in the rain. Need to devise some form of blower to blow across the windshield.
    Can do like the Swede E21 I saw online; he coupled a duct from about where the header collector in the passenger floor. Then attached a hose and directed up to the dash bar with a common cabin (boat) fan.



    Carnage from the event off's. My buddy said he thought here was an exhaust leak. :o) yup cracked all the way around at the rear center muffler. The front splitter damage expected but sheesh haha. Far as the oil cooler info from IE, "is what it is" nobody has had the issue like we've had, but acknowledged the fitting clamping the adapter isn't optimal. Ha whatever it's going on the M3 and not using the sandwich adapter. For the 320 we'll maximize the pan surface area and duct the pan. SpecE30 guys have gotten good results not needing aftermarket coolers this way.

    Found what I think was the braking problem. Went to check the pedal in detail and found the booster rod locking nut floating center of the threads. The rod was turned in several turns making slack in the pedal before actual pressure was felt. Hot damn which I would of saw that trackside in all the excitement. I could of fixed it in a few seconds. Turned out the rod and locked the nut when the pedal felt nice and solid. Good grief, beers it is. Putting that on the checklist.





    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  10. #635
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    Here's what holds the oil cooler kit sandwich adapter plate to the filter housing. I just don't think provides enough clamping force and also doesn't seem to bottom out the O-ring area with enough seal. The sandwich adapter o-ring is what spewed and failed once hot laps on track. Just can't trust it IMO. Email to IE confirmed the issue but no other failures reported like mine so SOL I guess.




    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  11. #636
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    So here's the new oil cooling solution. Per some specE30 guys can see -30F cooler temps at speed with a well ducted oil pan. Makes sense right; maximize airflow to where all the hot oil sits. I've made a venturi style duct in hopes to further improve encouraging the air flow. Figure any little extra can't hurt. Also thought of maximize the pans surface area itself. Since there's not any kind of fins on this S14 lower pan, I added some computer/transistor heatsinks. High temp super lube thermal paste behind them, and high heat epoxy'd on the flat front face of the pan. Prepped it first of course sanded cleaned etc.
    Added a 1/2" aluminum angle edging to the new splitter to hope for longer front edge life















    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  12. #637
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    These took forever cause had to replace our desktop pc. Went with a refurb business machine cheap that just came off lease. More than enough to crunch things now.




    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  13. #638
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    Happy Thanksgiving Gents.

    Took 2hrs this morning to pull the motor with brews while dinner cooks upstairs. Thankful we made this easy to remove by design. One man pull; beer in hand while other on the hoist and foot on the motor

    On the list this winter is preventive maintenance. Mainly see how the rod bearings are doing. Reseal the front timing covers, probably the lower pans, and maybe redo the valve cover. While it's apart check anything else out ie like measure and see how the chain tensioner spring is doing etc.

    Sachs sport clutch still looks new. Guibo and other parts fair'd much better this year with the new shifter.





    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  14. #639
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    Replaced rod bearings and rod bolts. These are M3 S14 parts so ordered through FCPeuro. Took a hot minute with economy shipping. While just the protective coating has started to wear off figured since already here replacing makes the most sense. Tuning fuel and ignition timing is over, so the next set wear pattern should improve. Overly hot timing advance can show as distinct horizontal lines btw.
    Sealed back up every cover on the motor with ultra black rtv (permatex #24105). Seemed to have oil sweating out with the loctite 518 from covers and the pans. Laid 1/16" beads and finger tightened, let sit an hour then torqued. Seems leak free but only time will tell So here's what 2 seasons of abuse looks like on our rod bearings including initial running, and motor tuning.




    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  15. #640
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    Everytime I look at your thread I just keep getting reminded about how awesome your car is and my love for these chassis! Their design is so cool to me! How long have you had this car? Also I’ll probably be finally calling you sometime later this week so keep an eye out!

  16. #641
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndronPrime View Post
    Everytime I look at your thread I just keep getting reminded about how awesome your car is and my love for these chassis! Their design is so cool to me! How long have you had this car? Also I’ll probably be finally calling you sometime later this week so keep an eye out!
    I've owned this car since July of 1998(had to look it up). Started autocrossing it 1999. Lots of history daily driving it especially when in the service to and from base. It has been parked years at a time too. It sat the longest when took a job overseas, where it was in my parents yard 10 consecutive years. It still ran to bring up to the garage in 2016 when we started this build. I almost parted it out, but just couldn't do it.

    No problem man. I'm usually around after 4pm EST, and weekends.
    88 M3
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    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  17. #642
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    Quote Originally Posted by autox320 View Post
    I've owned this car since July of 1998(had to look it up). Started autocrossing it 1999. Lots of history daily driving it especially when in the service to and from base. It has been parked years at a time too. It sat the longest when took a job overseas, where it was in my parents yard 10 consecutive years. It still ran to bring up to the garage in 2016 when we started this build. I almost parted it out, but just couldn't do it.
    Wow that car has a ton of history with you! Did you have any issues running the stock tanks vs the fuel cell? Been digging for information before I pull the trigger on a Radium fuel cell.

  18. #643
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndronPrime View Post
    Wow that car has a ton of history with you! Did you have any issues running the stock tanks vs the fuel cell? Been digging for information before I pull the trigger on a Radium fuel cell.
    Fuel tank dilemma, yeah it was a tough one. Factory has a baffle surrounding the inlet tube and no other tank does unless install one. Besides that most ALL tanks are just a box for fuel unless an expensive ATL with bladder (needs to be swapped every 5yrs). Most economical sense is keep the factory tanks when ever possible. My biggest concern is keep the weight and location of the factory tank cause it's the optimal location in front of the subframe(protected) and best for weight balance on scales(low and inside rear wheel axle centerline).

    IMO most that jump to a fuel cell regret it, but it can be managed. I don't need enough fuel to run enduro races so the passenger half (main) tank by itself is plenty capacity wise. With combo of a surge tank it's the best setup to use IMO. Any car seeing high G corners with good tires should use a surge tank regardless if fuel cell or factory tank. Some go as far as making the surge integrated into the main tank. Saves from extra lines plumbing. I went simple and more lines, external pumps with marine fuel filter. Every BMW seems to starve for fuel in right hand sweepers especially when 1/2 tank or less. Even if keep tanks near full there are times where surging/loss of power happens on high speed sweepers which is air entering the main pump and reaching the engine. Usually losing power when it's most needed to pull away or out of a corner.

    Radium usually is expensive and they do have a integrated surge tank solution. I know they are used and spoke of on Lotus. Bit rich for my blood. It's a container inside a container. Same as having a external container for a surge just much neater packing. You could make the radium work in the factory tank if enough depth. Cut a custom hatch and mate with a custom cut viton seal. A gent on S14power made his own version of the Radium setup and used his factory E30 fuel tank for track duty.

    Want to see some unique surge is how the newer cars do it today using the same principle just all in one package. Probably how the radium setup works as well with one pump.
    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  19. #644
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    Quote Originally Posted by autox320 View Post
    Fuel tank dilemma, yeah it was a tough one. Factory has a baffle surrounding the inlet tube and no other tank does unless install one. Besides that most ALL tanks are just a box for fuel unless an expensive ATL with bladder (needs to be swapped every 5yrs). Most economical sense is keep the factory tanks when ever possible. My biggest concern is keep the weight and location of the factory tank cause it's the optimal location in front of the subframe(protected) and best for weight balance on scales(low and inside rear wheel axle centerline).

    IMO most that jump to a fuel cell regret it, but it can be managed. I don't need enough fuel to run enduro races so the passenger half (main) tank by itself is plenty capacity wise. With combo of a surge tank it's the best setup to use IMO. Any car seeing high G corners with good tires should use a surge tank regardless if fuel cell or factory tank. Some go as far as making the surge integrated into the main tank. Saves from extra lines plumbing. I went simple and more lines, external pumps with marine fuel filter. Every BMW seems to starve for fuel in right hand sweepers especially when 1/2 tank or less. Even if keep tanks near full there are times where surging/loss of power happens on high speed sweepers which is air entering the main pump and reaching the engine. Usually losing power when it's most needed to pull away or out of a corner.

    Radium usually is expensive and they do have a integrated surge tank solution. I know they are used and spoke of on Lotus. Bit rich for my blood. It's a container inside a container. Same as having a external container for a surge just much neater packing. You could make the radium work in the factory tank if enough depth. Cut a custom hatch and mate with a custom cut viton seal. A gent on S14power made his own version of the Radium setup and used his factory E30 fuel tank for track duty.
    The location and cost are what puts me against the idea of going with the fuel cell. I'm already considering making a custom tank or modifying the stock tank to use their FCST set up which will be more than enough for me. I do not want to risk having any fuel starvation issues. The stock location is perfect where it is. But the FCST seems like the perfect solution to keeping my plumbing simple which having a surge tank. I think the best route I should take it mixing the two I guess.

  20. #645
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    Few extras from last week. Cut back another set of BR9EYA's (vpower); pic of one of the old ones from the track weekend. Cut ground electrode to expose center, gaped .035", indexed when installed. It just seems to wake the hell up that extra bit with these cut back Vpowers installed. Highly recommend vpowers in any car especially our older ones.

    Aluminum edged front splitter reset at 1/3 beer can height. Can't even roll a bottle under it I want to make a fan shroud for the radiator but other than that probably sit idle over the winter. Everything else checked out ok. Removed the fuel filter at the carb cause don't think it's needed anymore. Less connections and less to fail. If anything should help flow to the bowl.







    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  21. #646
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    Wanted a engine stand rotator for Christmas. But they are way overpriced. No more risking my back with engines on the stand to turn them. My bro's boat diesel engine was pretty heavy for a 4cyl. So, Merry Christmas to me, made this a few min ago. $23 Harbor Freight trailer winch(Christmas sale for $18) and some welding. Used an old M10 oil pump gear, chain, and crank gear.

    $18 rotator engine stand using one of my existing stands (I've 3). Merry Christmas Gents.











    Last edited by autox320; 12-28-2019 at 06:44 AM.
    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  22. #647
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    Fan vibrating is chewing into the radiator the way it's mounted. Taking my buddy Ray's advice. . . made a fan shroud.





    88 M3
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    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  23. #648
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    Red White and Blue
    Posts
    556
    My Cars
    82 E21
    Pics of the engine stand modifications are not working - I am super curious to see how you mounted all the bits and pieces.

    As usual, progress on the car looks great!


    MJ

  24. #649
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,126
    My Cars
    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Quote Originally Posted by mjweimer View Post
    Pics of the engine stand modifications are not working - I am super curious to see how you mounted all the bits and pieces.

    As usual, progress on the car looks great!


    MJ
    Noticed that the other day but thought was another google fluke. Seems an issue with putting pics in new created albums....hmm stuck in the 320 album and works fine now. Must be something with google and new created albums.
    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  25. #650
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,126
    My Cars
    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Whats up guys. Still waiting to see what the future brings. No race season yet. Everyone is getting antsy, but like a deployment i'm in it for the long haul if necessary. Not even started the E21 this year yet and here we are making 5mo into 2020.

    Before the coronavirus started I had signed us up for a few TracknightinAmerica events. If not heard of them look them up. A great way to get some track seat time without large expenses of a full weekend. Was about to sign up for Road Atlanta with NASA also and yup everything's on hold. Canceled the tracknightinamerica events for credit. We were looking to do Atlanta Motorsport Park in June but nope. Even got a exception letter to run our modded E21 since it's technically a "street legal" car So a bunch of pre filled out tech sheets with no where to run lol. Just beers I guess. Twist my arm.

    Our local autocross club has also been cancelled as expected. They are working on reopening with caution and may plan a day event with precautions. Not sure if we'll attend yet. We've kinda wrote off this year to see how things get when others try to reopen. I remain confident, but skeptical at the same time. Like I say this is just a "home" deployment for me so I'm very used to isolation etc already. Used to spending a year at a time isolated from the rest of the world; this is peanuts. Stay vigilant.






    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

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