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Thread: Return of an Original Gangsta

  1. #401
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    1,585
    My Cars
    1978 323i
    Quote Originally Posted by autox320 View Post
    I didn't ask but didn't want to risk being overcharged for parts. Especially stealer prices.

    I ordered the gasket and lock strip a few days earlier from Rockauto. They didn't show a lock strip for the E21, but the E30 one is the same so ordered for a 318i. It was chrome, so blacked it out with some flat rustoleum.

    $28.89 WLSF464C lockstrip
    $26.79 51311831958 (31 1 831 958) windshield gasket
    Wow, that's a great deal on both parts!

  2. #402
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
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    NC
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    My Cars
    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Well was mocking up the head to actually torque things to spec and check maybe some cam timing. The build came to a dead halt. Rolled the crank to about 1/4 way before TDC to keep all the pistons way below deck. Bolted on and torqued the head down. Rolled the crank to reach tdc and it froze several degrees shy of reaching the mark. A bit of head scratching and then tried fully loosening the valves with the rockers. Didn't quite seem like valve contact. Phasing the cam made no real difference the crank pulley stopped in exactly the same spot. . . . piston is hitting the head somehow

    Pulled the head and clayed the piston top again, rested the head on the dowel pins and cinched down a couple head bolts. When pulled off my suspicions about the piston top design was confirmed. I honestly questioned the little finger nail area edge of a valve relief. I was looking at it like why didn't they just machine that off even? Yup it's an issue for us. Another best guess is with all the machine work with head and block this area is offensive to the head due to that part is closer tapered. The head being skimmed so far has now made it tighter shape. That night cut a scrap piece of 2x6 for a jig in the vise. It was beers all night and a trip with my bro to Sierra Nevada since he was in town.

    Woke up early the next morning, started clearing the entire bench off. It was time to blueprint these pistons by hand in order to make it fit properly. I wanted to sand all the sharp points anyways and now it's perfect timing. The valve reliefs especially are like razors, but hesitated cause so pretty and paid good money for them. Well pretty parts aren't shit if don't work

    First couple rounds were still unsuccessful. Just kept slowly taking some and claying the top to check. Once had a pattern to follow duplicated the others using a machinist ruler as a gauge for where I was. Along with some kids crayola washable markers for reference of sander contact. Actually cheated a bit and also chamfered the head on the offending edge too. Rinse repeat, and it finally cleared. Checked piston 1 with a fully torqued head and plenty of clearance. Rolled it over several times just to be sure. Dumped in the other three pistons to verify each one individually. All clear. Stuck the timing gear back on and tried again, yup rolls over.

    All in all we lost probably a cc or two at most. But the gasket compressed measured out .063" where as on the S14 it's .066. Still looking at 13+:1 compression. No sharp edges here boss.




























    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  3. #403
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    641
    My Cars
    1982 323i 2003 325it
    Great beer choice, sir! Easily one of my favorite IPAs.
    Past, Present, and Future

    1974 BMW 2002tii (RIP)
    1995 BMW 325is w/ FULL S50 swap, track prepped (SOLD)
    1988 BMW 325ix Zinno/Black (RIP)
    1988 BMW 325ix Alpine/Black (Sold)
    1988 BMW 535is Alpine/Pacific Blue (Going Away...)
    1982 BMW 323i (Current Project/Paper Weight)
    2003 BMW 325i Sport Touring (Daily Driver)

  4. #404
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
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    NC
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    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Quote Originally Posted by MortyCrock View Post
    Great beer choice, sir! Easily one of my favorite IPAs.
    My bro brings up a case to the garage whenever he visits. Good stuff and not bad on the wallet to stock the fridge.
    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  5. #405
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
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    NC
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    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    chain tensioner M10
    springs springs and more springs

    As exhaust valves slam shut the timing chain builds slack in it. Each time they shut the tensioner pistons job is to keep out this slack. As the cycle speeds up it can become harder for the tensioner to control the chain. Performance cams with aggressive profiles usually use stiffer valve springs making the issue amplified. To avoid a loose chain oil is also trapped behind the piston by one way 5mm ball valve located internal of the piston nose. Oil is fed from the chain splash and oil off the valvetrain by gravity from the head face into the small reservoir in front of the piston. The piston nose is submerged in the reservoir. The slight motion of the chain pumps the piston. This filling of oil provides a near solid tension much greater than the spring alone. At high rpm the tensioner has a hard time keeping up and bleeds out around itself which then chain tension is relying on the internal spring alone. Most race motors swap to a solid tensioner that provides constant pressure to the chain, but also requires constant adjustment to keep correct tension. Too much tension will stretch a chain faster as it wears. Too little is worse if the chain slacks enough to skip a tooth. Never seen a M10 skip a tooth, but anything is possible.

    Newer tensioner designs avoid the oil bleed off by using forced fed pressurized oil through dedicated holes. This always keeps oil behind the tensioner when oil pressure is present. Great example of this is the S50 BMW tensioner. As oil pressure changes the tension is dynamic. The internal spring is also high rate to compensate when low or no oil pressure is present.


    Numbers run by install lengths and calculated. Read below cause have to modify this spring to use it correctly. Measured from my cover and new tensioner guides and new chain with new sprockets. Head and block have been decked beyond most so also plays a factor in how much chain slack from motor to motor.

    2.190" when chain slack measured from edge of timing cover hole to inside bottom of tensioner piston
    +
    0.536" depth of hex head cap for spring recess
    =
    2.726" total length when slack

    2.387" when chain tensioned measured from edge of timing cover hole to inside bottom of tensioner piston
    +
    0.536" depth of hex head cap for spring recess
    =
    2.923" total length when tensioned

    First note while not the same it's a ballpark thought process to examine a very popular tensioner spring; the S50 tensioner. A popular upgrade for all M3 S14 and all M5 S38 engines. This tensioner does use pressurized oil to accomplish a range of rates with an internal heavy duty spring to hold a nice steady rate for low or no oil pressure conditions ie low revs running and start/idle. Just raw figures the S50 tensioner is 18 lbs/in when mostly on the spring and up to 23 lbs/in @4bar oil pressure.

    The stock M10 spring is very weak and measures in at 4.6 lbs/in fully compressed (6.5" spring .040" wire dia x 3.8" travel @ 1.2 lbs/in). sure it uses oil when fills behind the piston, but bleeds off at sustained high revs. This would be fine if it was oil pressurized, but it isn't and purely mechanical.
    In another comparison the M42 tensioner spring alone is 17 lbs/in within it's range of travel. probably a bit more with combined forced oil pressure. Best guess it's somewhere around 20 lbs/in when max oil pressure.

    Shooting for the S50 rates as a target baseline, I found this 9657K218 part number from Mcmaster Carr. It needs to be cut off 4 coils/ 1/2".

    Been using this site to calculate, and it's been very very accurate.
    https://www.acxesspring.com/espanol/...alculator.html


    The spring I've chosen to use:

    McMaster-Carr
    part number 9657K218

    Spring Type Compression
    Material Zinc-Plated Spring-Tempered Steel
    End Type Closed
    Overall Length 4.5"
    OD 0.5"
    ID 0.356"
    Wire Diameter 0.072"
    Wire Shape Round
    Compressed Length 2.34"
    Maximum Load 36.70 lbs.
    Rate 16.99 lbs./in.
    RoHS Compliant

    Out of the bag 9657K218 is a 4.5" spring which measures and calculates to 16.980 lbs/in. Installed in the M10 timing cover hole your compressing it quite far. It's not easy to install by hand but can be done. Depth in the piston and cap tightened the rates are 27 lbs/in on the chain and when held fully compressed jumps up to 30 lbs/in binding just as can bottom out the piston.
    This would work and provide very high pressure on the guide. It's 0.06" from binding calculated compressed but I can max it out when push the guide like your bleeding the tensioner. It binds near end forming dead stop cause the spring coils are fully collapsed and runs out of travel.

    Same exact spring but cut off 4 coils or exactly 1/2" reshape the end coil flat using a vise and some needle nose. Then a light file to flatten the end. 9657K218 length is now 4" with 25 active coils vs 29 it started with.

    The rates are now 21 lbs/in on the chain to 25 lbs/in when compressed further. Binding is a 0.262" away even with the piston fully pushed back.
    It's closest to the S50 tensioner rate wise. It's also easier to install than the full 4.5" long out of the bag version. It's still tough but nowhere near as bad by hand. Still has effective travel and rates. Cutting any further defeats the travel and rates. As the chain wears it stretches and will want the spring to extend with enough length and rate to compensate. Shortest I would recommend to cut and calculated to is 4".

    So there ya go. A uprated tensioner spring for $1.76. Unfortunately you have to buy them in a pack of 6 for $10.56.

    Run at your own risk, but hey it's a option with much more chain control over the factory. No need for adjustments in high performance setups like using the fixed bolt tensioner.





    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  6. #406
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
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    NC
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    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Was in Harbor Freight for another batch of sanding wheels when spotted this scale for $20. Hmmm perfect. Chinesium but is it calibrated from factory? Tossed on a new nickel. . yup it's good. Everything was coming apart again for cleaning anyways, and a few more checks. So spent some time this morning doing a poor mans balance job. Initial weights of the rods showed #3 being the heaviest. The amount of casting lines isn't much on the M3 144 rods, so just wanted to get them even in weight. Piston #3 was a gram off but I found a spot I didn't quite sand like the others after examining under a magnifier. Once did that it joined the other three. Checked the head edges one more time and will clay a final time I hope. Might as well make as perfect as I can.

    Sanding I used the drill press sand rig from the rockers, and a bit of the air sander. Using 120grit actually takes awhile to sand off 1 gram at a time. Also 1 gram was more casting line than most would think.

    Guess should note the rods were measured with bearings and bolts. Pistons were measured with ring packs, wrist pins, and locks.






    Last edited by autox320; 11-03-2017 at 12:17 PM.
    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  7. #407
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    1,077
    My Cars
    1979 E21 320i
    Damn man, I learn something new every time I see you working on something. Pistons already match weight? I can't wait to see what kind of power you put down
    -John

  8. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by Somjuan View Post
    Damn man, I learn something new every time I see you working on something. Pistons already match weight? I can't wait to see what kind of power you put down
    Thanks John, hope this thread inspires others and creates some ideas.

    Pistons raw weight are matched at 398 grams each out of the box from JE. Once add rings, pins, and start filing off the dome like I've done things could of gotten off a bit. So in the back of my mind wanted to check. When saw this scale I knew what I wanted to do. Surprising 3 out of 4 were dead on after eyeball sanding. Not shabby considering lots of Lagunitas IPA consumed while sanding and mocking up

    Just washed it all up and mocked up again. Won't be the last time though cause have a few areas to attend to. Pretty satisfied so far. Planning to see if can press the piston tops into a mold of play-doh or clay and see if can CC the mold. Might as well do the head again to document it.
    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  9. #409
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
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    NC
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    My Cars
    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Gave Dad a buzz since he's gone for the winter. Updated on some things done to the car. When told him about the rods, he tells me just to take my time. I slept on it and this morning while waiting on some things to dry decided to see what was laying around the shop. Found a extra 320i rear wheel bearing. Started digging in the bolt box and scrap steel hoard.

    Knocked out the seals of the bearing and stripped the grease out of it. Left the seals out to keep resistance to a minimal. Made a quick diy rod end gauge. Tried three methods holding the small end. My own hand, string, and seesaw using an old pin. Most consistent was using my own hand believe it or not. Next would be the string. Probably some side loading using the other methods. Looking up some other diy's some use a chain on the little end. Yeah I see why.

    Anyways maybe some very dumb luck or BMW already has done this, but they all were dead on 470g a piece. I'm not touching that The material I took off already is in the middle ie just casting lines. These S14 rod caps are already profiled from the factory. Also the big end sides where the matching numbers are have already been machined. That is where most would take off any big end weight. I've no doubt it's been done since I've spun this thing myself to 8100rpm mercilessly. Big ends are the most critical being part of the rotating assembly. I remember reading an engine builder thread where just a few grams is approx 100 lbs at redline. This scale isn't even that accurate since only down to the gram. Some very precise race shops can do this to tenths of a gram. Home brews I figure one gram match is best I'll need.

    The rear wheel bearing of a 320i just fits. If clamp it in the center of the rod gently using the cap screws it snugs all the way.

    Well more brews and just washing parts in hot soapy water.











    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  10. #410
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    NC
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    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Ok finally getting around to pointing this out. If your a S14 purist please move to the edge of your seat and feel free to scream at the computer screen If your a M10 guy then smiles please and a few thumbs would be nice. Note all along there is a mismatch for using a S14 block with an M10 head. It's a rear oil return hole from the S14 head rear cam tray. JB weld once again to the rescue. To plug this hole I drilled another one into the block. Yes you heard me into the side just above this hole. Cleaned and sanded the inside area. Then washed with carb cleaner and coffee filters till clean. Taped over the large hole and used the small one to fill the cavity with JB till above the drilled hole, then taped over it before it pushed out. Sealed. If ever needed to could drill a hole and open this again.

    Getting closer to final assembly so took the opportunity to knock all casting lines and sand the inside of the block. It may not look like it in the pics but it's much smoother than when started. Cleaned, washed, and washed again. Blue dawn soap and hot water. A final wash of the cylinders with a toilet brush and hot soapy water.

    Still need to put on the head hopefully a final time and finally get to check the extremes of cam timing. Then do a real final with real valve springs and new gasket. Still haven't done it yet, but should be next. Just a guess from what I've been through so far we'll be ok. Oh and btw one of these JE pistons is 90 grams lighter EACH than the factory S14 piston. That's quite a bit and somewhat surprised since so much dome on them.

















    Last edited by autox320; 11-05-2017 at 03:04 PM.
    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  11. #411
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
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    NC
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    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Clayed to tops in the problematic places a few final times just to be sure. After cleaning up put the head on torqued and finally saw some timing numbers. If shave head and block far it will never be the same measurements as someone else. Using a IE slotted dual row cam gear I put the gear on at the stock straight up setting which on factory M10's should be about 110 degrees intake lobe center. First off I never use .050" lift or TDC clearance to set my cams. I always use lobe center or split center-line method it's referred to. I find it much more accurate to just find where the cam lobe peak is to time. Depending on what cams this can vary all over the place since cams can have asymmetrical grinds. The lobes may not be the same on each side of the peak like this 294 cam. BMW does this on their MS cams as well as many others. Most of the time Schrick is symmetrical. Schrick will use high lift numbers to make up for it in a way. Not all cams are created equal especially if just calling it by degrees. A 292 MS cam may keep the valve off the seat more degrees without as much lift as a Schrick 292 cam, but the Schrick will advertise more lift. On paper it will sound like the Schrick is larger but the lobe profiles tell a much different story. Anyways back to what this 294 from TEP measures. I'm mostly interested right now in what window of timing adjustment I have available and can reach. How much valve clearance there is at different settings.

    Advanced the cam far as would go in the slot when gear is set at stock position.
    Intake = 96.5 (very early close for such a large displacement motor; power will be literally choked off breathing wise)
    Exhaust = 241

    Retarded the cam in the slot
    Intake = 113 (retarded from stock 3 degrees; power band will move higher; cam will act larger)
    Exhaust = 256.5

    So with those limits I jumped the chain a tooth allowing the cam to retard further.
    Next tooth retarded allowed the slots to adjust from
    full advance in the slot
    Intake = 118
    Exhaust = 258

    full retard in the slot
    Intake = 134.5 (IMO way too retarded position; late opening would move power outside of rpm range)
    Exhaust = 273.5



    Well there's a 5 degree area missing between skipping a tooth. I may want to file the slot a bit to reach that spot.

    Windows on Intake go as follows 134.5 - 118; 5 degrees missing; 113 - 96.5

    This cam gear with my setup gives 17 degrees crank (8.5 cam) window of the slots.

    There's no telling where the motor will want to be, but I've a hunch it will like 115-110 on the intake. It will take test and tune running then adjust a bit till find where it screams to redline fastest under load. Since this is a SOHC the lobe separation is determined by the cam manufacturer and we don't get to split it. If so could dial in overlap ie like a twin cam motor. Retarding the exhaust and intake will give more juice but how much is too much to go outside our usable 7100-7200 rpm window. Too advanced and it will choke off the power way too early. The intake will close way to early which gives a nice bump off the line but the motor will starve since displacement will be larger.

    All settings I tried the valve clearance was approx .140-.150" everywhere. These valve reliefs in the pistons are deep. Must be able to accommodate something like the schrick 336. Example of how tight some run is the dtm M3 suggest at least 1.5mm or .060" on the exhaust side due to expansion. Intake can actually be closer.


    Side tracked with other tasks at the moment. The X3 needs new control arm bushes. Changing out rotors, some rear control arm bushes, and another set of tires.








    Last edited by autox320; 11-09-2017 at 08:28 PM.
    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  12. #412
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
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    NC
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    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Cam timing

    Buttoned up the X3. Went back to Hazard Fraud and browsed a few. Found these very cheap diamond coated rotary bits. Bought a couple sets. The first one I actually tried to use by drilling just forward of a slot. Yeah it melted The next one I put in the slot and just applied pressure in the drill press. Eventually after several brews checking with calipers opened them up about .040" each.

    Now when jump a chain tooth the window of slot adjustments are continuous.
    134 - 114; and 113 - 93

    The gear slots are now 20 crank degrees (10 cam).

    Grab your beverage.

    To set up a cam on lobe centerline will allow me to wrap my head around how to adjust depending on how the motor acts. Timing this way has always made more sense to me. Piston to valve contact will limit position in most cases. Not with this setup apparently. Most of the time the Exhaust valves are the limitation first. Areas to watch are +/- 25 degrees TDC and note valve clearances. It should be noted at any one point rolling over feel a stop, then stop. Never force it. If turning over with common sense your not going to bend valves by hand. But if leave a dead stop and it's not turning over freely when the starter is bumped then all things come to an end.

    There's probably plenty of ways to tackle this, but here's what I do. Split centerline.
    I first verify true TDC of #1 piston to see how it lines up to the pointer. I usually put a very fine dot and paint the scribe line on the pulley. Easiest way with the M10 is with the head off use a dial indicator on the block deck to the piston top. I make sure this is dead nuts on and repeatable as the motor is rolled around. This way I can adjust and setup the wheel if need be without having to re-find TDC and zero for the wheel.

    I use powerful magnets to hold the degree wheel. Double stick tape can also be used. A make shift pointer can be anything for the wheel. In this case I used a near by bolt and wrapped a piece of bail wire behind the washer when tightened. Can manipulate the pointer and wheel to read dead zero when the pulley is zero to the pointer.

    A dial indicator is used to see rise and fall of the valve itself. Best is to pay attention to setup the indicator in plane with the valve resting on the spring top retainer. Setup to allow falling distance of the indicator to read as the valve is depressed.

    Once it's setup now it's really just using the indicator to "see" as turning over. I usually pick a set number just for a reference on the degree wheel. This number is just anywhere before the intake peaks out on the lobe. It's best to pick a number close to the peak so not counting turns of the dial. Also closer is less error chances adding up a large window of degrees.

    I pick 80 degrees. Exhaust rises and falls first as you go around. Start to get close to the TDC line the intake will start to move. When get to 80 degrees I carefully nudge it to 80 exactly. Read the dial indicator. It doesn't matter what it says just read it and note that number. Watch the indicator now and don't take your eyes off it. Keep rolling over slowly and note when the needle peaks out and starts moving back toward your number. Slowly till get to the exact same number on the indicator. May need a slow nudge. Then look down and read what the degree wheel says. Let's say started at 80 as the first degree wheel number and ended on 140 as the second degree wheel number.

    (80+140)/2 = 110 intake cam lobe centerline

    As I return to TDC I stop at 25, then 10, then TDC and put the indicator on #1 and #4 valves to push on the rocker and see how much more clearance there is. Pushing with test springs till make valve contact with the piston and read the indicator. In my case every timing option gave well over .140" clearance. I'd be concerned if ever went say below .080 I'd pay closer attention to max out and note the timing limitation.

    To move the cam it's easier to retard it further but can be used to advance. It's just advancing takes into account the chain slack which isn't as accurate. You can just move the cam and guess then re-roll to measure. Or this makes it easier.

    Let's say 110 still and want to move to 114. Then with everything ready lined up roll over till the intake moves and your at exactly 110 on the wheel. Hold position and loosen the cam bolts. Then slowly roll till where you want at 114. Tighten the cam bolts. Now start over and verify it's dead on using the same split centerline method. If follow the same way I use 80 as the first number again. The second number should fall on 148.

    (80+148)/2 = 114

    Same way can be used to advance but your rolling the motor backwards. The chain slack tends to make it off a bit but it gets it very close.


    Note It's harder with real valve springs fighting position so this is much easier with test springs in. Definitely easier with spark plugs out. Basically anything that gives resistance. It can be done with a motor and everything in but much more difficult.

    Note it's very hard to just eyeball the cam gear to know where things are. True center of the head notch should be dead on 110 degrees for the intake. But once machine surfaces this gets moved a bit due to things are closer together. I made some reference marks on the head to show but they are not end all be all. If I move it to the mark it will be degree'd to verify where I am. A couple cam degrees does make a difference. In some cases like when I tuned the S14 it makes a world of difference how it's setup. Some aftermarket cams come with a suggested cam card to setup. This helps but isn't the whole story or end all be all position. Some give suggestion based off piston to valve clearance and not what gives optimal performance. Schrick on the S14 is this way.

    I thought was interesting to see the straight up profile wall leading slope on this cam. The intake lobe spans 39 degrees crank from 0 - .050" valve lift movement. The exhaust was 37 degrees crank from 0 - .050" lift. The trailing slopes were intake 32 and exhaust another 37. Just thought was cool.










    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  13. #413
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    NC
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    My Cars
    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Still inching along. Shimmed the oil pump for a bit more idle and low end pressure. This has been around for probably as many years as the M10. The S14 pump off my factory 2.3 confirms this mod. The 2.3 idle pressure was about 32psi hot and I'd have a 30psi warning switch which never was triggered. Shimming the spring for the vertical piston should bring close to the 30-32psi for this setup. We'll see. This pump is like new and has no horizontal pressure relief spring setup like the M3. This is actually preferred and more consistent pressures. The side spring just dumps oil back to the pan at high pressures and has been an issue on some M3 setups. It's preferred to use a dtm GrpA pump where the side relief is blocked off permanently.

    Checked clearances on the pump but didn't take a pic of the rotor assembly. It's virtually new. S14 sprocket and chain. The wider sprocket is needed along with the wider chain. The crank gear is wider teeth. Loctite 242 on clean splines of gear and pump nut. Interestingly this pump doesn't need a shim IMO the deflection of the chain is 3-4mm which will wear in a bit. It's a tad on the tight side but should be fine.

    Using wet sump means better have good baffling. Upper pan is from a 318i. Full horizontal stainless plate baffle for a S14 with some mods to the dipstick hole. Used to run this with the 2.3L setup and carbon airbox requires to turn the dipstick which makes for custom cutting the baffle to fit the rotation. Lower sump is from the 2.3 S14; has the extended tall vertical baffle with larger trap door. All metal no rubber; yeah basically a door hinge

    Also wanted to check some clearances of the baffles and most of all, the oil pump pickup to the floor of the lower pan. This clearance should be close approx 5mm but no more than 10mm to keep the pickup submerged. This setup it's 5.9mm.













    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  14. #414
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
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    NC
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    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Today was dirty sock day again. Matched up the springs tallest to shortest with respective valves. For what it's worth since after a few heat cycles they should change a bit, but several thou difference matched up with each height and retainer. Put the head together finally after several times of keeping things in order I can hopefully put it to rest. Was a bit of fun cause the springs are stiffer and taller. Had to clamp open the valves afterward carefully with a C clamp(used plate aluminum on the face side to keep from marring it) to stuff extra sock material in each one. Otherwise when put the cam in, the lobes were just too much to get by. From the spring site plugged in some math and came up with HD single springs are 90 lbs/in seat pressure installed at my height, and ramp to 165 lbs/in when full open on this 294 TEP cam. The stock springs would be about 55 lbs/in seat and 140 lbs/in full open.

    Was looking at the head port matching with the gaskets. As I said this head is well matched with intake gaskets already no a lip at all. The exhaust had a touch of a lip I was planning to leave for help with reversion, but decided to taper it out to the gasket edge also before assembly. The headers I cleaned up inside the weld penetrations and smoothed it up. The intake manifold I overlooked completely. It needed a lot of meat off the port edge to gasket match. Enough to break out the carbide die grinder tip, then sand again lightly.

    After thoughts and discussing with Dad, I've a perfectly good knock controller in the M3 that could be plugged in when using the 320. Emailed John at J&S Safeguard. Couple days later an additional wire kit and new NTK sensor showed up. It's a Vampire unit, but normally would use the Universal that has NA or FI switchable. The Vampire is normally for FI only, but modified by John to run with NA application.. It's best to put the sensor as close to combustion as possible. On the M I tapped the pad right at the deck between cyl 3, 4. But due to the intake on this car decided to re-drill the bung already there for the coolant pipe clamp. Cleaned up and put all the studs back in the head. Not bolted down yet, but looking soon.









    Last edited by autox320; 11-19-2017 at 07:03 PM.
    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  15. #415
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,126
    My Cars
    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Happy Turkey Eve everybody. Since family is out of town. . . more time to leap forward on this project.

    Brews in hand, unboxed the new updated headbolts. Prepped the head and block surfaces for final assembly using more coffee filters and brake cleaner.

    Once happy I put some real stank on the new S14 headgasket using my all time fav 99MA loctite spray. How to make a great seal and no I'm not talking about the copper crap spray. This is also an old secret the Swede's found back in early 2000 building turbo cars. Been using this on every motor since that I put together. Sure some say VR gaskets are crap blah blah but not with a coat of stank on it Even MLS gaskets have leakage between the layers. The Swede's were the first to drill out the rivets and spray the layers then sandwich back together with new rivets. Glues the layers together. 99MA is found here in the US and it's called 3020 in Europe. I heavy coat both sides and let setup about 10min for all the aerosol to evaporate from it before laying on the block. This stuff stays extremely sticky and can take as long as you need to get it on the block. It won't dry out and actually stays sticky and ready for days after spraying. Yes the head comes off as normal if need be, but makes sure she's sealed until then. Brews waiting out the 15min head torque grace period. Using the updated 44 ft-lb, 15min, 33deg angle, +25deg angle after engine temp.

    Going gasketless just like on everything I put together these days. Gaskets just age and fail. Most know motorcycles and some auto manufactures know this nowdays. There is all kinds of gasketless stuff running around. Most popular is Yamabond used on yamaha motorcycles, Mitsubond used on car engines etc. For a comparable is loctite 518 which is also same as Permatex 51813 used here. Use anywhere on machined surfaces. Only gaskets I'll be using is headgasket and valve cover (for convenience).

    And another tangent to the build is coolant flow. I even discussed this with Brendan (HDX) about when I ran this 38/38 over the years. It ran better after heat soaking. The manifold has coolant passages to keep the base plate area at engine temp to keep fuel from pooling. Yes race car most say go cold and forget about it, but icing is a reality at WOT on a track with a carb setup. Things freeze up from constant evaporation of fuel. Also let be known now we may plan to spray meth injection inorder to run 93 pump gas. Creates less chance of freezing. So creating a circuit from the back of the head through the manifold to the water pump. Will have the option to plug it off if need be, but going to see what works best. All fittings 1/2". The rear of the head fitting is steel. So cut and made it a custom 90 degree with some 16ga 1/2" steel notched tubing. The manifold inline also serves as a radiator using the fuel for cooling. All fittings were teflon taped, and liquid doped.




















    Last edited by autox320; 11-22-2017 at 10:33 PM.
    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  16. #416
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,126
    My Cars
    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Sorted though the 10.9 metric fasteners, and sure enough I'll have to get a few more. Some I told Fastenal to get close has too much shank and I don't want to stack a ton of washers to fit. Cutting to length is one thing but shank bottoming out early sucks.

    Ordered another front crank seal. A CRP one this time. Apparently nobody can get the right part. . . again with the weird parts suppliers. The cheap ass Corteco is the right size but lacks the correct seal lip inside reinforced with the wire. It will just spew oil on running. Had the same happen to a rear main when not paying attention on assembly. It cost me a lot of time to pull the trans after it's first out. And the seal came in a TUrnerM 2.5 gasket kit sheesh pleeeaassszzz I've a seal from National also but they don't know their dimensions cause it doesn't fit. Yes verified part number and it's just incorrectly listed everywhere including Rockauto.


    Timed the cam starting at 112 degrees centerline of the intake lobe. Just a starting point retarding 2 degrees from stock. Checked everything over and decided to button it up. 518 everywhere, the stuff is worse than a jelly doughnut, and super sticky. While tapping the intake manifold water outlets the aluminum was thin and cracked. That's why they are cut flush where the meat is. Fearing the waterpump tube may crack, I coated in JB weld and sleeved it with PVC. Re-enforced the entire neck with JB weld. Next time I'll just JB the connector in so not putting a spreading force on it.

    Inside pan bolts that surround the oil pump need to have blue loctite or you'll find them later in the bottom of the pan Common problem on S14 and M42 cars. All bolts on the motor have wave washers on them to prevent backing out.

    Oil cap gives small hint of what's inside, but so many use this cap it can just be a +10hp bmw addon

    Looking at adding a dipstick tube support, along with a intake manifold support rod. Think I'll add the 02 bung on the header collector for the wideband. Was going to put on the pipe just after but changed my mind.


    Happy Thanksgiving!











    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  17. #417
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    4,726
    My Cars
    83 320 82 320
    Looking good ! What did you use to paint the intake and valve cover ?

  18. #418
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,126
    My Cars
    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Quote Originally Posted by m60b30530i View Post
    Looking good ! What did you use to paint the intake and valve cover ?
    Thanks, finally feels like a bit of progress. Now for the small tidy things that take more work than some realize
    Same as the block. Dupli-color rattle can NEW FORD GREY (Diesel) (DE1611) color. It's my go to cause I like to see contrast to leaks if any. I hate murdered out black BMW stock block color, it's so hard to see oil seeping etc if ever any issues.
    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  19. #419
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    San Jose, California
    Posts
    1,720
    My Cars
    E21 320i, E30 325i
    Happy Thanksgiving!

    Sorry if I missed this, but is that an E30 M10 oil pan? I've always wondered if those will clear the front subframe.
    '81 E21 320i / '90 E30 325i / '̶9̶2̶ ̶E̶3̶4̶ ̶5̶2̶5̶i̶t (sold) / '15 Toyota XW30 / '̶̶8̶0̶ ̶E̶2̶1̶ ̶3̶2̶0̶i̶A̶ (sold)

  20. #420
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,126
    My Cars
    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Quote Originally Posted by amarino View Post
    Happy Thanksgiving!

    Sorry if I missed this, but is that an E30 M10 oil pan? I've always wondered if those will clear the front subframe.
    The upper pan is yes from a 84-85 318i E30. It may not fit a E21 front subframe, I'm not sure. But bet the subframe could be notched. I'm using a S14 lower pan which is like a 318i lower but has baffling with extra oil capacity. The S14 lower definitely wouldn't clear a stock subframe unless notched the driverside. The extra capacity sump sticks out further. I'll be less than a quarter inch clearance on my subframe

    Frame rails on a E21 are narrower than a E30.
    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  21. #421
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,126
    My Cars
    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Just over 24hrs and already welding on the motor Just thought was funny.

    Tacked together braces for the manifold and dipstick tube. Moved it to the bench weld plate to finish it up. Kept as simple and light as possible. Some 16ga 1/2 tubing and 1/8 plate. 1/8 angle. Dipstick support is 1/4" rod and. . . zipping ties of course.

    Made sure the starter would clear the manifold brace when making it.

    Pics to show the coolant hose route, and I think the 1/2" standard hose(Gates safety stripe) is much tidier than factory hoses. Interesting to me was close inspection of the manifold there's some kind of copper zig zag wire mesh in the base. Pretty large looking like 12awg wire. I never noticed it before, but bet it helps dissipate the heat like a heater core.

    Annoying with the front valve cover bolt, so made a stud for it to match the rest.

    Let's hope she goes as good as she looks. Need to clean the bench off again, but priorities of a few brews first.














    Last edited by autox320; 11-25-2017 at 02:27 PM.
    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  22. #422
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,126
    My Cars
    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Updated the carb. Installed new shaft bearings to replace the old plastic bushings. Wire wheeled the shafts before putting back together which made assembly much smoother. This bearing upgrade is a must for those with these carbs (32/36; 38/38). I can't tell you the difference it feels before and after. Very smooth operator now. Put a rebuild kit in it and set the float with a new updated needle valve. All new copper crush washers, and o-rings. I would of used the new throttle plate screws but they are longer than the originals and I didn't feel like cutting them down to not protrude in the barrel when open. Put the originals back in with dab of loctite.

    Enough for one day. Turkey and brews slowing me back down again just want to chill for the night.









    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  23. #423
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    1,077
    My Cars
    1979 E21 320i
    Mmmm...carb porn. Reminds me of my old motorcycle. She'll sound great on the first start.
    -John

  24. #424
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    1,585
    My Cars
    1978 323i
    Whats the power valve do? Keep all the power from leaking out?

  25. #425
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,126
    My Cars
    E30M3,318is,318i,E21320
    Quote Originally Posted by cgifool View Post
    Whats the power valve do? Keep all the power from leaking out?
    Cheers to that man I know your joking but on a more tech note, Yes it's adding fuel at WOT.

    From the 02faq, the power valve bypasses and feeds the main circuit of fuel like an extra main. The spring on the rod opens it at low vacuum like when at WOT. From the opelGT forums, some can have difficulty with the opening of the power valve with low vacuum ie large camshafts. In the old days weber used to modify the power valve by trimming the spring to allow operation point to change. Others found it can be eliminated all together by just cutting the spring and shaft off; sealing the area but not having a function. Apparently this is an area that may be messed with using high compression and camshaft.

    power valve #5
    spring #6
    pushes on activates #17 bottom of bowl
    main jets are #15
    can see the power valve allows fuel to flow past the mains #16



    Last edited by autox320; 11-28-2017 at 08:35 PM.
    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

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