Return of an Original Gangsta

[autox320]

More thought changes. Not much to update. Ordered and put a new float in the 38 carb. The old float wears a divot where the valve contacts it. Also decided after countless reading, I'm going for a power valve delete and changing the emulsion tubes to F66's.

Ordered from Fastenal a meter of 8mm 10.9 all thread to cut custom studs inorder to use our 1" spacer. Also had to make some studs out of grade 8 1/4-20 bolts for the air cleaner plate. The plate is a crappy cast piece and the bottom wasn't very flat and noticeable. So started sanding it and it took a little longer than I wanted by hand. Mocking up is one thing but making all this fit is requiring to drill out and tap the carb for standard fasteners to keep things simple. Will have to drop in the motor for the 02 sensor location and hope the hood clears the new air cleaner with 1" spacer . Will have to make a new aluminum box for it to the cowl.

Put in some Denso Iridium IW27 plugs(much cooler range than stock), but only 3 indexed where I wanted with electrodes facing front of the motor. Gaped them to .030" and may cut the electrodes like use on the M3 gaped larger to .040". Ordered a few more and a batch of IW31 if we need them (much cooler heat range). I don't like to index using washers cause changes the protrusion of the tip location in the chamber.

Still pondering over spraying meth/water injection. Having second thoughts. Plan is to see if can make a TPS mount to the 38 carb and use newer controllers with the 0-5v signal. I'm having issues with my brain telling me meth/water injection won't be reliable. Beers don't seem to make it any better. Hmmm still circling on it.

Ordered some micro sized parts from qa1 anyways for a linkage if go through with it. May just make it up as a bolt on option.

[autox320]

Posting a quick note at work this morning So after our "light dusting" for those that believed the weather man, we stopped counting at 12 inches of snow. Was plowing 9 inches Friday night and went on into the morning at work. Laughed my ass off when they changed from 1/2" prediction to 1-3". Anybody that actually lives here knows when it comes from the Gulf and breaches TN line over the mountains we're gonna get nailed. Plowed home to find the local transformer blew up when a tree fell across the line. Probably have to fire up the generator to do any shop work this week. More flushing toilets with melted snow and nature's refrigerator to keep contents from going bad. Snow beers. Meh several thousand power outages in the county, so could be awhile before they get to the three houses affected. But we do like it this way ; price you pay sometimes for seclusion. After awhile I'll admit I do miss electrons.

[autox320]

Just when thought was going to be a couple days, Duke Energy have us back up and running.

Moved the snow beers back inside. Random pics around the property my lady took.

Finally found a place that has a clue on what a S14 crank seal is. Kept ordering different places and was receiving a corteco seal. Complete junk. I've used them before and leak like crazy new. they don't have a wire reinforced seal lip. Another one came from national and double checked part numbers. It's not even the right size. Found another random place online Eeuroparts had elring from Germany and it's good! The actual CRP seal from BMW is on permanent backorder.

Put all metal top lock nuts on the headers. If want exhaust leaks or missing studs use factory bmw copper nuts. Ordered a few distributor caps and another ignition wire set. Put the last IW27 plug in that indexed correctly.









Total crap


Not even close in size


Correct!

[autox320]

Thank beers it's Friday. Waiting on some parts. Somehow forgot to order or can't find the clutch pivot pin. Stainless or brass is a real nice upgrade to the factory plastic. The plastic pins sheer off the nose and cause clutch problems. While waiting on that I grabbed the lady to help me set the motor in for another mock up. Wanted to see hood clearance and start on the airbox.


-TEP hp sport clutch
-my old TEP ltw (12 lb) flywheel resurfaced
-new digital inductive timing light (yep they still make timing lights for us distributor guys)
-magnecor wireset (KV85) to replace the old e21parts accel set I made and used to sell (race version all stainless) The accel's are great but won't work with the knock controller (EMI like crazy) I've magnecor on the M and they are the shizzle.

[autox320]

Sealed the seams of the airbox with ziptape. The top I used regular 3M black duct tape since the lid is removable to get at the filter.
Insulated the airbox. Foil bubble wrap material same as a windshield sun shade. Find at hardware stores in a roll. I've used this stuff for hood liner before and still good after years without flaking apart. Long as don't use near the exhaust it's good. One 1/4-20 top nut removes the entire assembly. The heat shield comes off like a sock, then un-tape the top seam to slide out the lid.

[autox320]

Merry Christmas and Happy New Years!

Been buried; family in town. Hiked Chimney Rock with the family. Then side car tasks that needed attention. Also I promised I'd redo and resolve an issue with the lady's 318i. Tight wrist pins. So knocked it all apart and had my buddy at the machine shop ream them. For Christmas she received labor and a very free spinning engine. Also a super nice top of the line Bosch dishwasher lol hey gotta keep her happy.

A quick redo and some paint; new bearings, headgasket, bolts, 5 days of M42 goodness. Dropped it in with her help Christmas Eve. Runs sweet now and she's happy.

Decided it was time to tackle my daily 318is recent loose front end. Turns out need just about everything. Tie rod assemblies, wheel bearings, strut mounts, and control arm ball joints. Waiting for parts. Took a minute to trim the bump stops on it since it was never done. This is what happens when don't trim the stops using bilstein sports over HR sport springs (also Race springs). The bump stop first knuckle destroyed itself and the 2nd knuckle had cracks up to the last knuckle. Trimmed off leaving one knuckle which is what your suppose to do. Why bilstein has incorrect bump stops no body knows. If don't trim them your continuously on the stops. After a year of squirming handling it got better; when the top knuckle smashed itself Anyways. . . corrected done.

Put the speedway seat belts in and more high rated SFI padding on the cage. Will use cheapo pipe padding for the door bars to avoid some funny bone moments.

Testing some of the insulation pad with flat black spray paint. Seems promising with foot traffic on it. Going to make a passenger floor mat out of it to block the exhaust heat. Nothing like melting shoe bottoms over the header, just ask someone who rode in my M3











318's her's












mine

[captain awesome]

I need to trim the bumpstops on my 318is Bilsteins as well. Any picture based how to you know of that could help a greenhorn like myself? Also, how much of the bumpstop needs removed? All but one knuckle?

[autox320]

I need to trim the bumpstops on my 318is Bilsteins as well. Any picture based how to you know of that could help a greenhorn like myself? Also, how much of the bumpstop needs removed? All but one knuckle?

It's actually very simple. If have the insert in front of you, use a chisel or screwdriver on the bottom silver cap. It barely has an edge to hit, use an extreme angle at it, but eventually pops out. The entire yellow bilstein tube is just an outer casing and this cap is the top cover plate. Inside you'll see the bump stop on the shaft or in some cases if installed long enough whats left of it. Majority of the time there's three large knuckle segments of bump stop. Carefully roll/spin to trim with a sharp razor knife, then cut long ways to remove sections from the shaft. What I find is if have an E30 with OE springs or HR OE sport springs only really need one knuckle trimmed off. If HR sports can trim 1 to 1.5 but I trim 2. If use HR race definitely trim 2 leaving only one on the shaft. Enjoy the restored shock travel. Sport shocks this is a must IMO. This is also an issue with HD bilsteins and why a lot of people wonder why the car sits so high. For those that think bilsteins are harsh or bouncy more than likely never trimmed the stops. Why such a common issue seems like we'll never know but this has been going on for years and years.

[captain awesome]

Thanks for the info. I'm on H&R race right now, but switching over to coilovers. When I install those I might as well trim them down a bit. I assume there aren't any issues with the rears?

[autox320]

Thanks for the info. I'm on H&R race right now, but switching over to coilovers. When I install those I might as well trim them down a bit. I assume there aren't any issues with the rears?

HR race definitely should trim the stops. If not your on them 100% all the time.

Rears are external so can trim at will. With HR race I don't run any rear stops cause there's no travel left once the car is on the ground at height. Especially if removed more than one spring pad. If no pads in the rear she's about 1/2" of travel left. Really should have an extended mount in the trunk for more shock travel. Rear shocks are very close to running out of travel with HR race and an issue even on my M3. An area to remedy by making custom tall shock mounts or go custom. I contribute some of it to the reason I crashed the M3 last year; rear going infinite on that corner when jumped the kerbing.

[captain awesome]

I'll look into the rear shock extenders. I've got the HD Meyle for now, but anywhere I can improve handling and still be within SCCA Solo rules I'm game.

[autox320]

GC sells a pair, but not hard to make. https://groundcontrolstore.com/produ...ck-mounts-pair

[autox320]

Met forum member Eric (Bonsaibacker) and his Dad stopped by today to pickup the set of VW rear brakes. Was nice to meet ya man. There's plenty of beer if want to hang longer next time.


Messed with some E30 parts but missing most to put it back together. For now just the FAG wheel bearings. Received the regiment of pull out the seal and using a syringe pack with Amsoil grease.

Was contemplating messing with the 320 since family was coming back in, and tomorrow is New Years Eve . . . brews and friends will be over. After a beer looking at it decided to go ahead and pull the engine back out. Put the trans steel clutch pin in. Topped with Amsoil 75-90 MTL. Assembled the clutch and trans, then dropped back in. This time the motor is hopefully in for a season Will need to wire, plumb lines, and figure out the coolant hoses since the rad is leaned.

Didn't need to use the sleeve retainer but it's permanent now and lets me sleep. If ever used this loctite it's forever so be careful.

[Bonsaibacker]

Thanks Jody- beer next time.
For those of you who haven’t checked out Jody’s shop, make the trip- he ain’t messing around. The pictures are great, but to see the clean fabrication in person is a treat. Happy new year- excited to follow your progress.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[amarino]

Not sure if its been mentioned in the thread yet or not but you sure do put the rest the debate about taking the engine out the top or bottom. Just straight out the front is the best way.

[autox320]

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!

Drinks, friends, food, fireworks. . .

drinks and messed with the heat shielding cheapo stuff from lowes while near the woodstove

long as not more than 300F direct contact the plastic bubble sandwich won't melt. Right around 300F the plastic collapses but still shields the heat for quite awhile. Really best is a fiberglass mix backing, but hey just wanted to see what it could really do pushed to the limits.



after 5min sitting point blank on metal stove



after 10min



10min spaced 2.5 inches off with piece of 3/16 wall square






some assembly test fit the splitter and put in the TII distributor with electronic pickup and magnecor wires

[autox320]

Pulled my back this week, and spending most of my time in a recliner. Sucks cause I don't like to sit still very long. Poked around some when I could. Started plumbing the AOS and trans breather. Lowered the car to work on the daily 318 with more issues. Barely finished the front end which was super wore out. When realized the rear needs RTAB's that have issues. I'll post about them later once apart cause seems a very common thing on E21/E30's when using aftermarket bushes.

[autox320]

Finally my back is feeling better. Good thing cause removed the 318 rear subframe and went into an ordeal on the RTAB's. In the end, just buy the AKGmotorsports kit and forget it. I did this on my girl's 318, but thought I'd try others first. Nope cost me lot's of time redoing this job. AKG have paid attention to details. Drill out the subframe ears to 1/2" and use some 1/2-13 grade 8 hardware with top lock nuts.

The Turner kit(ECS tuning) is garbage. Uses aluminum sleeves and they are too short which causes binding. The Garagistic kit is garbage. They use too large ID sleeves(13.7mm wtf) that are also too short. Their bushings (Grey uber ones) are cheap hard plastic which shattered quickly. On install inspection the bore of the bushings aren't correct and are too tight on the sleeve. The shorter sleeves also cause binding just like the turner/ecs kit. Fail.

Put the AKG RTAB's in with some nice moly grease it drives like a new car.


Cleared up from that insane mess, grabbed a brew and whipped up a larger brake vacuum canister for the 320. Used 3" instead of 2". Just adding volume to the brake booster.

[autox320]

Been avoiding a few things, but decided to roll up and go in. These carbs have one flaw recognized in scca rules about the feed fitting being pressed in. In theory it can just come out and spray the engine bay with fuel. They recommend a threaded fitting. Mine eventually could spin but would absolutely not come out. I destroyed the nose of it and eventually just sawed off flush and drilled. It was really in there. Went down to the internal port with a large drill bit, then opened the port to about a 1/4" with a step bit. Took the nose off the internal filter area of the port opening it a bit too. I initially tapped for pipe but straight bottom tapped it instead. Coated my fitting with JB weld and made it permanent. I'll clean out the carb again just in case anything made it in there. Will install with lock nuts but leave the top plate with standard ones cause I intend to need access for re-jetting to tune.

Brew in hand raided the M3 for the J&S safeguard unit. Like mentioned before this is a modified vampire unit from John at Safeguard. It's setup like a universal for NA application, but with a vampire it's not inline to the ignition coil. If it somehow fails or malfunctions the ignition will always still work. Never had any issue with this unit and it's saved me a few times so I run it religiously. Mounted on some 1/2 square aluminum riveted to the firewall. Has heat shield backing under it and a air gap. Bit of HD velcro on the mount ears and some self tap tek screws to retain it. Wired up and ran the map sensor line to manifold. The way I've wired also adds the switched retard function. This is wired into the start button to retard the ignition during starting to aid in easier starts.

I'll need to raid the WB02 unit from the M at some point but probably will have to invert myself under the driver footwell. My back says this is enough for a night

Think I've posted before but if haven't can read a bit about the J&S here. Sure, sure some will think it's dated, but I assure you it's not. Also hard to find negative feedback on these. . . because they work.
http://www.jandssafeguard.com/VampirePage/Vampire.html
http://www.jandssafeguard.com/tech.html

[Allenwilson33]

Where can a brother get a stroker crankshaft these days (s14 crank or any other possibilities)? I had a lead on ebay last year but the guy flaked.

[autox320]

Where can a brother get a stroker crankshaft these days (s14 crank or any other possibilities)? I had a lead on ebay last year but the guy flaked.

Far as I know the entire s14 is scarce with blocks and internals going NLA. Lot's of dtm parts went NLA over the years as well. Either find a niche part owner willing to separate with stuff, or alternative is have Castillo crankshaft service offset grind a 2.0 crank giving longer stroke. It's been referenced to me before to go that route, but I've never done it. Lot less expense. Add 144mm aftermarket rods and basically in theory the same. My personal thought is damper pulley and harmonics (huge issue with the s14) but really only if pushing revs. In theory your ok within limits of a rocker motor and not seeing 8-10k revs. Longer stroked out more harmonics unless designed carefully. Even if the crankshaft doesn't fail maybe it disintegrates the block. There are instances that don't pop up on the interwebs, and I'll leave it at that.

[Allenwilson33]

That has to be the most elaborately planned yet easy to install hack yet. When you say it's hard to install by hand, anything to bear in mind? I'm presuming i should get a new chain if doing this, no?
Yes, McMaster Carr is brilliantly designed.

[autox320]

That has to be the most elaborately planned yet easy to install hack yet. When you say it's hard to install by hand, anything to bear in mind? I'm presuming i should get a new chain if doing this, no?
Yes, McMaster Carr is brilliantly designed.

Talking about the tensioner spring? Just extra force required to start the threads of the cap. Really IMO need to trim the coils as I've done or I believe it's a bit too much force full length. New chain isn't a bad idea.

[Allenwilson33]

For those of us less than mechanically inclined, care to show where you cut the coils on the tensioner spring? I looked at Jeff Ireland's mechanical tensioner, and you're right: his requires constant readjustment.
I've been a few weeks overdue on visiting his shop for some old business, but now I'm gonna relish the opportunity to show him this (with due credit, of course.)

Josh, if you're reading this, place this in the DIY thread, no?

[Allenwilson33]

whipped up a larger brake vacuum canister for the 320. Used 3" instead of 2". Just adding volume to the brake booster.

I have yet to install my 24mm brake master cylinder (made for the e12 and will complement my Girling calipers.)
Couple of questions on what you'd recommend if you would, please: Jeff Ireland mentioned to me a couple of years ago that a brake proportioning valve isn't necessary for my setup since the rear brakes are just drums. We didn't discuss the booster though. Do you think your fabricated booster is helpful and/or necessary for my case?
And how about the brake lines themselves: haven't heard a definitive answer yet on whether there's any benefit to running all four lines from the master cylinder, since most folks here have t'eed the lines close to the caliper, then plugged two ports on the master cylinder. Your thoughts on both would be appreciated...