Most pumps have a maximum head or height they can achieve. Most gear pumps its minimal. 1-2' maybe so yes you definitely need to mount it lower.......
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1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
Get a timer as well. Or wire the pump to KOEO so you can let the pump run for 10-20seconds after shit down.
My $0.02 is to vent the oil drain line. Cut your existing oil drain in 1/2 and put a 3way tee in 5/8-1/2- 5/8 from home depot. Run the 1/2 line to your catch can up top. This stopped all my issues.
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
What is KOEO?
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
I believe, Its a fancy beef used in expensive restaurants for people who have money instead of car projects..
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
I do have the pump set up for key on engine off. I've been running it 30 seconds before startup and after shut down. Smoke was not as bad during start up, but much worse during WOT/full boost situations. It's heading to the shop Thursday. I'm having them relocate the pump to the x brace most likely, similar to Raj's pic. I figure try that and go from there. One thing at a time to isolate issues/changes was my plan.
Current
-1999 M3-track toy.
-2013 Subaru WRX- DD.
Past
-2003 Ford SVT Focus
-1991 Toyota MR2 Turbo(Turbo swapped, full exhaust, intake, springs, shocks, brakes)
This may not be relevant to your situation, but we had an electric scavenge pump on the turbo of a road race car with a boosted stroker Hayabusa (340 hp @ 20 pounds of boost). It worked fine in the pits and short test runs, but would dump oil into the turbo anytime we did an extended blast up the straightaway at Sears Point. We tried restricting the oil, reclocking the turbo, different hoses, changed turbos, ......... Nothing helped. We finally did a Hail Mary swing at it by changing to a higher rated scavenge pump, and that did it. Apparently there was enough oil feed into the turbo that the hose to the scavenge pump would fill up and pressurize the turbo bearing, thereby blowing oil into the turbo. As soon as you let off of the throttle the pump would catch up, and everything seemed fine. YMMV.
Marty
Thanks, I will certainly keep that in mind as I work through the list of suggestions.
Current
-1999 M3-track toy.
-2013 Subaru WRX- DD.
Past
-2003 Ford SVT Focus
-1991 Toyota MR2 Turbo(Turbo swapped, full exhaust, intake, springs, shocks, brakes)
The OP is running the Turbowerx Exa Pump. That pump is fine for any turbo on one of these motors and is one of the better pumps on the market. Pump capacity is not the issue.
Yea I thought it was supposed to be one of the better pumps, which is why I went with it.
Current
-1999 M3-track toy.
-2013 Subaru WRX- DD.
Past
-2003 Ford SVT Focus
-1991 Toyota MR2 Turbo(Turbo swapped, full exhaust, intake, springs, shocks, brakes)
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
No I haven't yet. We are relocating the scavenge pump Thursday. Depending on how that affects the smoking, I was then going to vent the drain line. If I'm still not happy with it I will try pbonsalbs' suggestion of check valves. I wanted to isolate the changes to one at a time though.
Current
-1999 M3-track toy.
-2013 Subaru WRX- DD.
Past
-2003 Ford SVT Focus
-1991 Toyota MR2 Turbo(Turbo swapped, full exhaust, intake, springs, shocks, brakes)
The difference here is that others have run this pump on these motors with a variety of turbos and it works. I actually ran the less powerful version for a while and it worked fine. The only unknowns to me in this case are the Comp turbo and how he has the system set up.
Could be the problem is the Comp turbo and everything about the scavenge is fine. I don't know much about the Comp. He is feeding it with a -3 so if it is ball bearing and has a built in restrictor or one added to the inlet, not much oil is going in and not much coming out. Sometimes a turbo center section fails and causes smoking as oil gets into the turbine.
The most difficult part of my build (so far) has been oiling the turbo. I went with Scavenge and mounted the same place Raj did. Seems to be a good spot but it does sit a little low which concerns me.
I don't like the idea that a car that you are investing so much time and money into is dependent on $60-200 pump that's mounted slightly below the oil pan. There's really no where else too put it though
With that said I've replaced one of Vanos bolts (sprocket access bolts) with a $2.00 direct fit brass fitting that flanged for a hose. I didn't want to tap oil pan or drop the sub-frame to tap the oil pan. Didn't want to use dip stick either after it started backing up and leaking. A lot of guys have said I may run into issues with oil backing into the turbo when the car is powered off so I've installed a separate switch that can turn the pump on. Also installed a green LED next to switch that indicates the pump is receiving power. Having a light that indicates that the pump is working mechanically would be ideal though - not sure how to do this? In line oil pressure gauge maybe?
I've started the car with it setup like this twice and have gotten it up to temp with no smoke problems or oil in the turbo (that I know of). As a piece of mind I may install an additional pump on or near the drivers side strut tower to help move the oil along. This will create 'some' redundancy as well in case the bottom mount pump decides to die or gets destroyed. I may look into installing a check valve as well.
Last edited by 328iFun; 04-26-2017 at 09:23 AM.
I ran a scavenge for 7 years, never had an issue. Do it right and it is reliable. Mount pump on its head on the X brace buffer tab or on a bracket off the side of the trans. Use a small reservoir under the turbo. Ideally return to the top of the pan near the pump, but you need to use the OBD2 dipstick stem from the CCV or you can weld or drill/screw a fitting on top of the pan near the dipstick tube.
If you make it complicated and dependent on more parts working like times and check valves and extra pumps, it will be less reliable. You can also sell your manifold and put the scavenge money towards a gravity drain manifold if you want the most simple and reliable method.
Mine was made by Mike radowski at max psi. It was a little rectangle about 1 inch tall, 2 inches wide and 3 inches long. Inlet on top and drain on the bottom end of one side. Maybe necessary maybe not but it is a convenient junction for the drain line; the box is rigidly attached to the turbo drain outlet.
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