S54 ---> Hellrot E36 328I

[Bjazzy2]

Looking good, and sounds great. I noticed your temp needle reading is slightly to the right--mine registers the same way as well, with no overheating. I'm running a SPAL fan with the 185 degree thermostat to keep things cool. Again great work!

[PITT M3 RR]

Hey thanks man, I think the angle of my pic made it look that way, but I'm pretty sure its sits dead middle. Ill have to check when I get over there these next off days. What CFM is your SPAL and are you running the SPAL as a puller with the AUX fan in place or as a pusher in place of the AUX fan?

To add, I contacted Markert today and explained my S54 Z3M cluster question. They stated that if I follow the wiring document that GPeterson sent to me, my cluster code plug can be swapped and should update the Z3M cluster to my mileage with the internal test#9. I will update after I do that this weekend.

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[SneauxM3]

Yes. Please update on that. I've been looking at buying the cluster new to start from 0 with mine since only my shell bares any mileage now.

Damn thing is $800 new from BMW, so not the biggest priority just to reflect proper mileage with rebuilt motor.

[PITT M3 RR]

Yes. Please update on that. I've been looking at buying the cluster new to start from 0 with mine since only my shell bares any mileage now.

Damn thing is $800 new from BMW, so not the biggest priority just to reflect proper mileage with rebuilt motor.

i also throught it'd be cool to have the S54 mileage, but every legal reading shows where it's at now. It's not worth the trouble. I'll just display chassis mileage and keep the govt happy.

Also I will update, this is probably the last "major" thing to hurdle. I'd like to have a definitive X works, Y doesn't.

[PITT M3 RR]

Well, I spent some time over at the garage today. First thing I did was finalize the exhaust by welding on the middle mount, bending edges, coating and lastly RTV. Fits well. My Sec1 to 2 gaskets arrived too so I threw those in after and that completed the exhaust. Check the pics below for the model number of the OBX muffler. Works perfect with E46M section 2.













After the exhaust was done I decided to work on the cluster. I was under the assumption that swapping the coding plug and running test #9 would have it accept my mileage, but that is NOT the case. The cluster is set up as an E46 and has 21 test functions. The E36's have the 15 and 19 test clusters which allow this action. Ill get more into that after, but there is good news as well. It is hooked up and does work showing 89900 miles, no tamper as expected.

Step one was to remove the old cluster. That left me with the open dash exposing the X16 X17 and X271 connectors. Gpeterson took the time to look over the ETM and document the necessary, un-necessary and additional wires involved. This saved a ton of time, so thanks to him! Anyway, I used his spread sheet with the ETM to get it wired up. For the wires that I removed, I used spare TYCO connectors I had around and assigned each wire a slot in case I decide to use an E36 cluster instead, I could quicky put the wires back where they belong. Once that was done, I used a multi-meter to check the X69 and X6031 ports to find the unused wires that ran from there to the original cluster. This is so I could tap there with the CAN high and CAN low wiring I ran from the X60004 plug back when I was messing with the DME (it was documented before). When using the Z3m cluster the X16 pin 16 and X17 pin 13 wires are removed from the connectors. These two wires run directly to the X6031 port under the hood. X16 pin 16 to X6031 Pin1 and X17 pin 13 to X6031 pin 3. X6031 pin 4 is for diagnostics and accessed via Andrews harness. I took these three connections and made them inside the OEM connector for a clean look. This worked out well as you can see below.













After the wiring was complete, I installed the cluster and fired the car up. Everything worked fine with the exception that it showed I have low brake fluid. A quick look at the ETM shows the E36 signal is broken when the fluid gets low. On the E46, the signal is SENT when the fluid gets low. Because I still have E36 hardware and wiring, I get a low level light when everything is okay and the warning light goes off that when there is an issue haha. Simply switching the wiring at the plug to the sensor will make it work properly. ANYWAY, after I saw the cluster works well, etc I focused on the miles issue. The Z3M unit is showing 89900 miles. My car has 165,000. So, I removed my mileage plug and the plug from the Z3M. Initial observation, they're ALMOST* the same, but, they're not. The orientation grooves are slightly different. So slight that it took me 10 minutes to realize that apart from color, size was the only difference. I managed to force my plug into the Z3M slot and put it back in the car. Trial and error right? The cluster immediately thew an error with tamper dot. So as I was told and hoped for, is not what works. I removed my plug and put the Z3M one back in. Then reinstalled the cluster and again, it worked perfect, but showed 89900 miles .












At this point, I have 4 months until inspection. I have not gone of the 5000 miles/year which makes me exempt from emissions testing at the moment. Because of that I can use my 328i cluster and pass as a last resort. What I am going to try to do is access the EPROM chips in the cluster and pull the code to see if I can locate the mileage strand. This will be hard as I have never done this before. Lastly. I can look into getting a state certified shop to document the cluster change and also give the the door sticker making it a legal roll back. I will for sure let everyone know the solution.

TLDR. S54 Z3M cluster is an E46 style cluster. It will not accept an E36 Code plug and you cannot align the mileage that simple.

[Harvington]

Sweet!! Awesome updates! You need to post more to sustain me through my winter

[Bjazzy2]

PIT M3 RR sorry for the late response--I'm currently using a SPAL 16 inch low profile puller fan with 1300 CFM with the AUX fan in place, and the 185 degree inline thermostat; set up is temporary just to get it running. Gonna change this prior to summer and install the 16 inch curved fan with 2024 CFM and integrate wiring with factory thermostat. Will have to off set the fan on radiator because of clearance issues. Here's a pic...ignore the terrible hoses I have new Mishimoto hoses to install when I swap the fan..lol
Message_1480380664729[2].jpg

[Bimmerman535i]

We tried doing the cluster mileage change and it didn't work. Did you ping Cyberkaa?

Glad to see the progress!

[gpeterson]

S54 Z3M cluster is an E46 style cluster. It will not accept an E36 Code plug and you cannot align the mileage that simple.

I can increase the mileage on the coding plug to match your chassis - I should have thought of that before shipping the cluster.

[PITT M3 RR]

Sweet!! Awesome updates! You need to post more to sustain me through my winter

Sustian you!? It's 10° here I need sustaining haha

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PIT M3 RR sorry for the late response--I'm currently using a SPAL 16 inch low profile puller fan with 1300 CFM with the AUX fan in place, and the 185 degree inline thermostat; set up is temporary just to get it running. Gonna change this prior to summer and install the 16 inch curved fan with 2024 CFM and integrate wiring with factory thermostat. Will have to off set the fan on radiator because of clearance issues. Here's a pic...ignore the terrible hoses I have new Mishimoto hoses to install when I swap the fan..lol
Message_1480380664729[2].jpg

ok cool, yea I was going with a curved 2000+ unit, mostlikely derale. I think I'll tap in to aux signal on a relay and control fan that was. Just preliminary, once I get in there I'll know more.

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We tried doing the cluster mileage change and it didn't work. Did you ping Cyberkaa?

Glad to see the progress!

M I did but didn't hear anything. I had been talking with some one but if Gary doesn't mind helping haha I'll go that way.

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I can increase the mileage on the coding plug to match your chassis - I should have thought of that before shipping the cluster.

PM'd

[Bjazzy2]

PITT M3 For safety mine is hard-wired for now, cutting on/off based on 185 degree thermostat temp; when I find the permanent solution I will share the info as it should be the same for most e36 chassis.

[TH3 Shifty]

did any of you guys use the following parts for the accelerator?

35411163875

35426772703

or
fuel line 16122229767

[PITT M3 RR]

35426772703 - this is used. It bolts to firewall down there. The bottom clip won't line up unless you cut it from the floor of the car and reweld it at the correct angle. I did not do the welding yet and I don't really see the need, the pedal is solid.

35411163875 - this is not

16122229767 - this is used, from FPR to fuel line mounted on motor. I got mine used on ebay. Push Hard till it clicks, I thought mine was broken.

ill give you some details later, getting slammed at work now.

[PITT M3 RR]

Cannot decide if I want to install the LTW wing or not. I got to the point of centering, clamping and then couldn't make the first punch. Thoughts? I'm thinking I'd rather have a CSL look for subtle vs extreme, but I am not sure.

Maybe I'll run it low rise and then if need be I can sell the set up and go with a CF CSL thing.

[TH3 Shifty]

low rise on a sedan looks better in person that the high rise does.. i often go back and forth on getting a curved "CSL" version trunk but i think im going with a low rise LTW

[PITT M3 RR]

Shifty, get that info above for those three parts? And

I agree, however I went all out haha installed, with risers.

First I took it apart and I went from the bottom screw holes of the base and opened the top above them with my dremel. That way I could center the lower portion and punch where to drill. Once that was done, I made the holes. The rear holes require opening the sheet metal on the underside of the trunk. I did that and everything lined up well. I also perfected the riser fitment by adjusting mounting holes etc...nothing major mm here mm there. Well worth it for the smooth lines. Lastly re build the spoiler with antiseized hardware, RTV'd the trunk holes and actually use a tiny Viton oring on the Bolt between the trunk and spoiler to make it water proof...important!

Gauge cluster mileage and alignment are pretty much it for the "need to do stuff". There's other things on the list but not necessities. I've also been getting into the coding / tuning a bit. Learned ALOT over the last two weeks. Based on the reading, and the tools that the community has developed, fairly certain I can modify any S54 DME for use in an E36

Anyway, pretty happy so far and maybe one day I'll trade up for a csl rear. I'm very happy with the turn out today though. Some pics trunk wasn't fully* closed due to battery off, but you get it.

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2p

[PITT M3 RR]

Pics

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Lll

[Bimmerlife93]

This might be a stupid question but I might as well ask anyways. Does the Z3 M cluster only work because you s54 swapped your car with the dme and everything? Or would I be able to finagle one into say my OBD1 93 e36? I bought some trim rings to install but that cluster looks way better

[TerraPhantm]

This might be a stupid question but I might as well ask anyways. Does the Z3 M cluster only work because you s54 swapped your car with the dme and everything? Or would I be able to finagle one into say my OBD1 93 e36? I bought some trim rings to install but that cluster looks way better

The S54 cluster is CAN-bus enabled, but it seems like you can turn a lot of that stuff off, so you might be able to finagle it into an OBDI car.

[PITT M3 RR]

This might be a stupid question but I might as well ask anyways. Does the Z3 M cluster only work because you s54 swapped your car with the dme and everything? Or would I be able to finagle one into say my OBD1 93 e36? I bought some trim rings to install but that cluster looks way better

Finding one is another story, I didn't realize how rare of an item it is haha I got lucky.

anyway, moving on, finalized trunk / wing for OEM-Esk appearance. Found these grommets in the parts pile and they fit Well.

Then, I closed it all up and cleaned off all the papers, parts and towels etc..went for the first drive! 11.3 miles over 25 min. Light driving but the car felt great. I think sport mode is on haha touchy throttle. I stopped 1 mile in to check all fluids / areas and all was well. Stopped again half way through, same story all was well. When I got back to the garage I'll looked it all over again haha paranoid I guess.

no leaks temp was fine but, I noticed the upper rad hose looked pretty fat. It was definitely pressurized.

So here's my dilemma, the E30 has a vent screw on the thermostat housing, the E36 has a vent screw on the expansion tank and the E46 has a vent screw on the upper rad hose...I have NONE of those. I was under the impression the E30 expansion tank was self bleeding.

Am I right in assuming that is my issue? I need to vent the air that has emerged now? The motor was completely empty during the build. I've had no problem on all the starts before this actual drive, they were just idling in the drive way, few light revs etc...

Any thought appreciated - always like to talk it out. Fluid is BMW blue / 50% distilled water!

im going to pull cap and run it to temp tomorrow and squeeze the hose to see if theres any air in there, may also replace the upper has as its original to my car.

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Pppp

[bimerok]

Like you said, just open the cap and run the car through couple of thermostat cycles. The steam tube will vent any air you might have and you'll see it flow coolant into the expension tank.

[flyfishvt]

Couple options. It wouldn't be hard to make something you can insert into the upper rad hose that can act as a bleed screw. I've seen lots of guys make inserts that allow them to use a separate coolant temp gauge.

Option 2 is to do the Euro expansion tank conversion. If it's done correctly it is supposed to make the system self bleeding. I can't confirm that though.

im surprised Kassel doesn't have a solution. Maybe give Max PSI a call. Those guys are magicians.

[PITT M3 RR]

Like you said, just open the cap and run the car through couple of thermostat cycles. The steam tube will vent any air you might have and you'll see it flow coolant into the expension tank.

Will do as soon as I get home, with the cap on, will that prevent the steam tube from blowing off? Just trying to figure out why the pressure is being held? I was t about to pull the cap with all that pressure.

Maksin im using the E36 cap. I'll have to look into E30/6/46M cap differences.

Couple options. It wouldn't be hard to make something you can insert into the upper rad hose that can act as a bleed screw. I've seen lots of guys make inserts that allow them to use a separate coolant temp gauge.

Option 2 is to do the Euro expansion tank conversion. If it's done correctly it is supposed to make the system self bleeding. I can't confirm that though.

im surprised Kassel doesn't have a solution. Maybe give Max PSI a call. Those guys are magicians.

Thanks for the fast reply, I think I have the Euro tank. Isn't that the "E30 tank"!? Which is also what confused me due to having this issue, I also through it was a self bleeding thing.

Do do you know the purpose of the VEnt screw exactly? I may need to add one in line like you suggested. I feel like if I had one, opening that in upper hose after the trip would have blown off the steam / pressure until coolant bubble out then I could seal it.

I report back. I hope it's just air in the system and not an HG.

[bimerok]

If you look under the cap you'll see a number there. This number represents system pressure that this cap creates in kPa. If you're using e36 cap then it is most likely 200 or 220 cap. Can't remember exactly

In any case, I think what's happening is when you fill an empty system, you'll have significant amount of air trapped and it can't generate enough of cap's rated preassure to escape into the tank. That's why if you let your engine cycle through couple of thermostat openings with open cap, all that air should escape. This is the procedure to follow on most pressurized tanks. No need for any additional bleed valves as long as your tank cap is the highest point.

[gpeterson]

This might be a stupid question but I might as well ask anyways. Does the Z3 M cluster only work because you s54 swapped your car with the dme and everything? Or would I be able to finagle one into say my OBD1 93 e36? I bought some trim rings to install but that cluster looks way better

RPM, temp, CEL, and other things are fed to the cluster via CAN on the Z3 S54 cluster, so those wouldn't work in your OBD1 car. If you just want the rings just get a S52 Z3 cluster, it doesn't use CAN.