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Thread: S54 ---> Hellrot E36 328I

  1. #76
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    Pittsburgh, PA
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    S54/E36,18 Sierra Denali
    Quote Originally Posted by gpeterson View Post
    It really is possible but not easy. All of mine exit that way and run through the E36 rubber boot and plastic tray along the firewall.
    I was going to use those E36 carriers for that reason until I botched the wiring size and ordered the z3m. What did you do with the bundle of relays etc? At the moment I have an unaltered Z3M/S54 and Andrew Harness. I should clarify that if you don't want to cut and extend, its damn near impossible to have everything exit up there. It seems as if the mess would just hang right there with out many options for cleaning it up. Aside from shoving everything in with the DME or under the coolant tank in the exposed to elements well, I don't see how people are doing it.

    Did you go fully custom, I think I read that you did some where on R3v? BTW thanks again for all that help earlier it made all this much easier.
    Last edited by PITT M3 RR; 10-16-2016 at 12:22 PM.

  2. #77
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    Jan 2011
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    Northern CA
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    1998 M3/4/5
    I cut up the E46 plastic DME mounting box and bolted it into the E36 DME compartment. The DME is on top, relays & fuse holder fit right under. There was room to the left for my CAN board, an additional fuse holder (used as the equivalent of Andrew's 2x 30A fuses + SAP + spal fan), and a relay for the spal fan.
    S54 swap DME flashing - $100
    S54 swap CAN interface board (for proper A/C & check engine light) - $275
    e36 SAP sim/secondary air pump simulator:
    $75 - standard or $170 - plug & play
    e36 post-cat O2 sims: $115 shipped, plug & play

  3. #78
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    S54/E36,18 Sierra Denali
    Quote Originally Posted by gpeterson View Post
    I cut up the E46 plastic DME mounting box and bolted it into the E36 DME compartment. The DME is on top, relays & fuse holder fit right under. There was room to the left for my CAN board, an additional fuse holder (used as the equivalent of Andrew's 2x 30A fuses + SAP + spal fan), and a relay for the spal fan.
    AHh ok ok I did the same but left it in the E36 mounting location. I can see now that raising it and moving it around would allow that. Not bad!

    Quick question - Whats involved in adding the canboard now? Im going back an forth between messing with Z3m cluster / mileage coding etc or picking up a canboard from you and keeping that for ease, then I can grab a euro cluster later on with oil temp.

    Thanks

  4. #79
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    Northern CA
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    1998 M3/4/5
    Quote Originally Posted by PITT M3 RR View Post
    Quick question - Whats involved in adding the canboard now? Im going back an forth between messing with Z3m cluster / mileage coding etc or picking up a canboard from you and keeping that for ease, then I can grab a euro cluster later on with oil temp.
    It requires power, ground, CAN h+l at a minimum, 1 wire for the check engine lamp, 2 A/C input wires for E36-style A/C.
    S54 swap DME flashing - $100
    S54 swap CAN interface board (for proper A/C & check engine light) - $275
    e36 SAP sim/secondary air pump simulator:
    $75 - standard or $170 - plug & play
    e36 post-cat O2 sims: $115 shipped, plug & play

  5. #80
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    Pittsburgh, PA
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    S54/E36,18 Sierra Denali
    Quote Originally Posted by gpeterson View Post
    It requires power, ground, CAN h+l at a minimum, 1 wire for the check engine lamp, 2 A/C input wires for E36-style A/C.
    Hm, I am going to head over today, finish up the mounting of the harness and look into the cluster a bit more. CAN lines are run already, Ill send a PM on your board depending. Thanks again.

  6. #81
    Join Date
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    S54/E36,18 Sierra Denali
    Well I went back in today and buttoned up the wiring. This will be fine until I can move to a new house with a garage and tear the car down once again (currently using the spare garage at my parents house for the time being) it very annoying to have to drive to their house to work on the car. So Ill wait to complete a full custom wiring setup with the harness I started earlier.

    Anyway, I started it with ICV on, lower vac lines etc. No HFM and it idled very well for about 2 minutes (no cooling system) before I shut it down. I made the wiring element and vibration safe as best I can tell. I am by no means fully happy with the way it turned out near the DME chamber, but without custom wiring this is the safest I could make it.

    video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v16tnqybJCQ

    sJArnL.jpg

    8awcy7.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by PITT M3 RR; 10-16-2016 at 11:35 PM.

  7. #82
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    UT
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    98 M3/4/5
    its looking really good, looks right at home in there.
    98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
    S54 swap CSL

  8. #83
    Join Date
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    S54/E36,18 Sierra Denali
    Does anyone have the E46 M3 ETM? The information I took below was from a 2001 Z3M S54. X60003 plug should be the same (for most part), but I want to check it vs the E46. This list can be used in conjunction with the ETM while extending the harness. If it were to be written as stand alone, then I would be rewriting the damn ETM. Ultimately if you know how to use the ETM this is pointless, but if you want a quick, bundled look at pin outs, this helps. I have 5 days off, so I am going to pull the harnesses from the vehicle to see if I can get better fitment.

    EXTENDING WIRING S54 WIRING HARNESS FOR USE WITH S54 IN E36 CHASSIS (WORK IN PROGRESS)

    __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ___________________________


    -DETAILS AND SPECS-


    DME - MSS54 / MSS54HP


    5 SOCKETS FROM L to R X60001, X60002, X60003, X60004, X60005


    F - X60001 9 PIN - POWER SUPPLY


    G - X60002 24 PIN - TRANSMISSION HARNESS


    H - X60003 52 PIN - MAIN ENGINE HARNESS


    I - X60004 40 PIN - ADAPTER HARNESS / LINK TO E36 CHASSIS


    J - X60005 9 PIN - COIL ON PLUG HARNESS


    WIRING COLOR KEY - BL=BLUE, BR=BROWN, GE=YELLOW, GN=GREEN, OR=ORANGE, RS=PINK, RT=RED, SW=BLACK, VI=VIOLET, WS=WHITE, TR=TRANSPARENT
    WIRING GAUGE KEY - .35MM= 28AWG, .5MM = 22AWG, .75MM = 20AWG, 1MM = 18AWG, 1.5MM = 16AWG, 2.5AWG = 14AWG, 4MM = 12AWG, 5MM = 4AWG


    SIGNAL TYPE KEY - E = INPUT, A = OUTPUT, M = GROUND


    RELAY TERMINAL #'s - 30= RELAY INPUT, 85= RELAY OUTPUT, 86= RELAY INPUT (WINDING), 87= RELAY OUTPUT (ENERGIZED), 87a= RELAY OUTPUT(AT REST)


    VOLTAGE TERMINAL #'s - 50 = + IGNITION SWITCH IN START, 30= VOLTAGE SUPPLY AT ALL TIMES, 15= +IGNITION SWITCH IN RUN OR START, 15I= IGNITION SWITCH IN RUN, R= IGNITION SWITCH IN ACCESSORY OR RUN OR START, 31= GROUND
    __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ___________________________
    X60001 - [TYPE] - [COLOR] - [GAUGE] - [CONNECTION] - [ADDITIONAL SOURCE INFORMATION]
    PIN1 - [A] - [GREEN (GN)] - [.5MM (22AWG)] - [A6000 DME TO K6327 PIN8 INJECTIONS VALVES RELAY]
    PIN2 - [A] - [RED (RT) - [2.5MM (14AWG)] - [A6000 DME TO X6053 PIN6 TOWARD THROTTLE MOTOR]
    PIN3 - NOT USED
    PIN4 - [M] - [BROWN, ORANGE (BR, OR)] - [1.5MM (16AWG)] - [A600 DME TO X6454 CHASSIS GROUND]
    PIN5 - [M] - [BROWN (BR)] - [1.5MM (16AWG)] - [A6000 DME TO X6454 CHASSIS GROUND]
    PIN6 - [M] - [BROWN (BR)] - [1.5MM (16AWG)] - [A6000 DME TO X6454 CHASSIS GROUND]
    PIN7 - [E] - [RED (RT)] - [1.5mm (16AWG)] - [B+ JUNCTION TO A600 DME]

    PIN8 - [E] - [RED,WHITE,YELLOW (RT,WS,GE)] - [1mm (18 AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X6960] - [X6960 CLAMPED JUNCTION FED BY X5660 (RT,WS,GE) 4MM (12AWG) FROM F202/30A PIN4 (5 FUSE BUNDLE)]


    PIN9 - [M] - [WHITE (WS] - [2.5MM (14AWG)] - [A6000 DME TO X6053 PIN7 TOWARD THROTTLE MOTOR]



    NOTUSED (1 PIN) [3]
    5AWG (1 PIN) [1]
    14AWG (2 PINS) [2,9]
    16AWG (4 PINS) [4,5,6,7]
    18AWG (1 PIN) [8]


    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    X60002 - [TYPE] - [COLOR] - [GAUGE] - [CONNECTION] - [ADDITIONAL SOURCE INFORMATION]
    PIN1 - [M] - [BROWN (BR) - [.5MM (22AWG) - [A6000 DME TO X62101 PRE CAT 02 SENSOR BANK #1 PIN2] - [O2 HEATING GROUND]
    PIN2 - NOT USED
    PIN3 - NOT USED
    PIN4 - NOT USED
    PIN5 - [M] - [BROWN (BR)] - [.5MM (22AWG)] - [A6000 DME TO X64619 WHITE (SW) GROUND BUNDLE TO ALL 02'S PIN3 AND EGT PROBE PIN1] - [GROUNDS ARE WHITE IN THIS APPLICATION]
    PIN6 - NOT USED
    PIN7 - [M] - [GREEN (GN) - [.5MM (22AWG) - [A6000 DME TO X62102 POST CAT 02 SENSOR BANK #1 PIN2]
    PIN8 - NOT USED
    PIN9 - NOT USED
    PIN10 - [E] - [BLUE, WHITE (BL,SW)] - [.5MM (22AWG)] - [A6000 DME TO X5351 EGT PROBE PIN2] - [TEMP SIGNAL FOR EGT PROBE]
    PIN11 - [A] - [BLACK, VIOLET (SW,VI)] - [.5MM (22AWG)] - [A6000 DME TO X6021 (SW,VI) JUNCTION TO X6301 .35MM (26AWG) (SW,VI) ELEC FUEL PUMP RELAY] - [ACTIVE RELAY FOR FUEL PUMP]
    PIN12 - [A] - [BROWN, YELLOW (BR,GE)] - [.5MM (22AWG)] - [A600 DME TO X6506 ELECTRIC BOX FAN PIN2] - [SIGNAL FOR E-BOX FAN]
    PIN13 - [M] - [BROWN (BR) - [.5MM (22AWG) - [A6000 DME TO X62201 PRE CAT 02 SENSOR BANK #2 PIN2] - [02 HEATED GROUND]
    PIN14 - [E] - [YELLOW (GE)] - [.5MM (22AWG)] - [A6000 DME TO X62101 PRE CAT 02 SENSOR BANK #1 PIN4] - [SENSOR SIGNAL]
    PIN15 - [E] - [YELLOW (GE)] - [.5MM (22AWG0] - [A6000 DME TO X62201 PRE CAT 02 SENSOR BANK #2 PIN 4] - [SENSOR SIGNAL]
    PIN16 - [E] - [YELLOW (GE)] - [.5MM (22AWG)] - [A600 DME TO X62102 POST CAT O2 SENSOR BANK #1 PIN4] - [SENSOR SIGNAL]
    PIN17 - NOT USED
    PIN18 - [E] - [YELLOW (GE)] - [.5MM (22AWG)] - [A6000 DME TO X62202 POST CAT O2 SENSOR BANK #2 PIN4] - [SENSOR SIGNAL]
    PIN19 - [M] - [GREEN (GN) - [.5MM (22AWG) - [A6000 DME TO X62202 POST CAT 02 SENSOR BANK #2 PIN2] - [02 HEATED GROUND]

    PIN20 - [E] - [WHITE, BLUE (SW, BL)] - [.5MM (22AWG)] - [A6000 DME TO X6021 #8 TO GREEN (GN).35MM(26AWG) TO X121 GROUND DISTRIBUTION PIN2] - [CLUTCH DEPRESSED SWITCH] - PAGE 117


    PIN20 - [E] - [GREEN (GN)] - [.35MM(28AWG)] - [A6000 DME TO X6021 WHITE, BLUE (SW,BL) TO CLUTCH SWITCH] PAGE 272

    PIN21 - NOT USED
    PIN22 - NOT USED
    PIN23 - [A] - [BROWN, WHITE (BR,WS)] - [.5MM (22AWG)] - [A6000 DME TO K6300 ENGINE CONTROL MODULE RELAY PIN4 (85 OUTPUT)] - [ACTIVE RELAY ECM]
    PIN24 - NOT USED


    NOTUSED [2,3,4,6,8,9,17,21,22,24]
    20AWG (0 PINS) []
    22AWG (14 PINS) [1,5,7,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,18,19,20,23]
    28AWG (1 PIN) [20]

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    X60003 - [TYPE] - [COLOR] - [GAUGE] - [CONNECTION] - [ADDITIONAL SOURCE INFORMATION] -

    PIN1 - [E] - [YELLOW (GE)] - [.5MM 22AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X6207 HFM PIN5] - [SIGNAL HFM]


    PIN2 - [E] - [YELLOW (GE)] - [.5MM 22AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X6495 TO X6224 CAM POS SENSOR 2 OUTLET PIN2] - [X6495 IS MEETING OF A6000 DME PIN6 AND PIN2] - [SIGNAL CAMSHAFT POS]


    PIN3 - NOT USED

    PIN4 - [A] - [WHITE (SW)] - [.5MM (22AWG)] - [A6000 DME TO X5255 VANOS PIN 3 (OUTLET VALVE RETARD)] - [VANOS VALVE ACTIVATE]
    PIN5 - [E] - [WHITE (SW) - [.5MM 22AWG] - [ A6000 DME TO X6214 CAM SHAFT POSITION 1 INLET PIN2] - [SIGNAL CAMSHAFT POS SENSOR 1]
    PIN6 - [E] - [YELLOW (GE)] - [.5MM 22AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X6495 T JUNCTION INTO DME PIN2] - [THIS GOES TOWARD CAM POS SENSOR 2 OUTLET] - [CAM POS SEN 2]
    PIN7 - [A] - [RED,GREEN (RT,GN)] - [.5MM 22AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X5393 ELECTRIC THROTTLE MOTOR PIN1] - [ T'S AT X5286 ((RT,GN) .5MM 22AWG)TO X6207 HFM PIN4] - [+SUPPLY HFM / ETM] - [T]
    PIN8 - [E] - YELLOW (GE)] - [.35MM 28AWG] - [A6000 DME TO W6203 CRANK SHAFT POSITION SHIELD] - [SIGNAL FOR CRANK SHAFT POS SENSOR]
    PIN9 - NOT USED
    PIN10 - [E] - [VIOLET (VI)] - [.5MM (22AWG)] - [A6000 DME TO X5393 ELECTRIC THROTTLE MOTOR PIN2] - [THROTTLE POS SENSOR FOR ELEC THROTTLE MOTOR]
    PIN11 - NOT USED
    PIN12 - NOT USED
    PIN13 - [E] - [BLUE] - [.75MM 20AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X6524 GENERATOR] - [SIGNAL THEN COMES OUT OF X60004 PIN1 AND ENDS AT X17 PIN6] - [CHARGE SIG TO ALT]
    PIN14 - [A] - [RED,YELLOW (RT,GE)] - [.5MM(22AWG)] - [A6000 DME TO R6252 THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR PIN 1] - [+ SUPPLY FOR TPS]
    PIN15 - NOT USED
    PIN16 - NOT USED
    PIN17 - [M] - [BROWN, ORAGNGE (BR,OR)] - [.5MM 22AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X6207 HFM PIN3] - [GROUND FOR HFM]
    PIN18 - NOT USED
    PIN19 - [E] - [YELLOW,WHITE (GN,SW)] - [.5MM 22AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X6053 PIN5 TOWARD TPS SYSTEM] - [TEACH IN PROCESS TPS SYSTEM]

    PIN20 - [M] - [BROWN (BR)] - [.5MM 22AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X5393 ELECTRIC THROTTLE MOTOR PIN3] - [T'S AT X6475 ((BR) .5MM 22AWG) TO X6252 THROTTLE
    POSITION SENSOR PIN3] - [- TPS/ ETM]


    PIN21 - [M] - [WHITE (SW)[ - [.35MM 28AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X6203 CRANK SHAFT POSITION SHIELD] - [GROUND CRAP POSITION SENSOR]

    PIN22 - [E] - [YELLOW,BLUE (GE,BL)] - [.5MM 22AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X6207 HFM PIN1] - [TEMP SIGNAL INTAKE AIR AT HFM]
    PIN23 - [E] - [WHITE (WS)] - [.5MM 22AWG] - [A6000 DME TO R6252 THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR PIN 2] - [THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR FROM TPS]
    PIN24 - [E] - [BROWN,RED (BR,RT)] - [.5MM 22AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X6236 COOLANT TEMP SENSOR PIN 1] - [TEMP SIGNAL FROM COOLANT TEMP SENSOR]
    PIN25 - [M] - [BROWN (BR)] - [.75MM 20AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X6491 GROUND JUNCTION FOR KNOCK AND CRANK SENSORS] - [GROUND FOR VARIOUS SENSORS]
    PIN26 - [E] - [BROWN,GREEN (BR,GN)] - [.5MM 22AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X6231 OIL PRESS SWITCH PIN1] - [OIL PRESS SIGNAL FROM OIL PRESS SWITCH]
    PIN27 - NOT USED
    PIN28 - NOT USED
    PIN29 - [E] - [WHITE (SW)] - [.35MM 28AWG] - [A6000 DME TO W6241 CYL 1&2 KNOCK SENSOR] - [SIGNAL FROM KNOCK SENSOR]
    PIN30 - [E] - [WHITE (SW)] - [.35MM 28AWG] - [A6000 DME TO W6242 CYL 5&6 KNOCK SENSOR] - [SIGNAL FROM KNOCK SENSOR]
    PIN31 - [E] - [WHITE (SW)] - [.35MM 28AWG] - [A6000 DME TO W6243 CYL 3&4 KNOCK SENSOR] - [SIGNAL FROM KNOCK SENSOR]
    PIN32 - NOT USED
    PIN33 - [A] - [BROWN, WHITE(BR,WS)] - [.75MM 20AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X6101 FUEL INJECTION VALVE CYL 1 PIN2] - [ACTIVATE VALVE]
    PIN34 - [A] - [BROWN, RED (BR,RT)] - [.75MM 20AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X6102 FUEL INJECTION VALVE CYL 2 PIN2] - [ACTIVATE VALVE]
    PIN35 - [A] - [BROWN, YELLOW (BR,GE)] - [.75MM 20AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X6103 FUEL INJECTION VALVE CYL 3 PIN2] - [ACTIVATE VALVE]
    PIN36 - [A] - [BROWN, BLUE (BR,BL)] - [.75MM 20AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X6104 FUEL INJECTION VALVE CYL 4 PIN2] - [ACTIVATE VALVE]
    PIN37 - [A] - [BROWN, GREEN (BR,GN)] - [.75MM 20AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X6105 FUEL INJECTION VALVE CYL 5 PIN2] - [ ACTIVATE VALVE]
    PIN38 - [A] - [BROWN, VIOLET (BR,VI)] - [.75MM 20AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X6106 FUEL INJECTION VALVE CYL 6 PIN2] - [ ACTIVATE VALVE]

    PIN39 - [E] - [GREEN,GROWN (GR,BR)] - [.5MM 22AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X6254 THERMAL OIL LEVEL SWICH PIN3] - [MISTAKE ON PAGE 216 PIN 39/34] - [OIL LEVEL TEMP SIG FROM THRM OILSWITCH]


    PIN40 - NOT USED

    PIN41 - NOT USED
    PIN42 - [A] - [BROWN, WHITE, (BR,SW)] - [.5MM 22AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X6120 EVAP EMISSIONS VALVE PIN2] - [ACTIVATE VALVE EMISS EVAP VALVE]
    PIN43 - [A] - [GREEN (GN)] - [.5MM 22AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X5255 VANOS PIN 4 (OUTLET VALVE RETARD)] - [ACTIVATE VALVE VANOS RETARD]
    PIN44 - [A] - [WHITE (SW)] - [.5MM 22AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X5255 VANOS PIN 6 (OUTLEFT VALVE ADVANCE)] - [ACTIVATE VALVE VANOS ADVANCE]

    PIN45 - [A] - [WHITE,GREEN,YELLOW, (SW,GR,GE)] - [.5MM 22AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X6053 PIN8] - [COMPLETES RUN AT X17 CLUSTER CONNECTION PIN1] - [TPS WARNING TO CLUSTER]


    PIN46 - [A] - [WHITE, GREEN SW,GN] - [.5MM 22AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X6130 ICV PIN1] - [X6130 IS ICV PLUG PIN2 IS RED,WHITE,GREEN (RT,WS,GN) 1MM 18AWG FROM FUSE X8680 PIN4 F202 30A]


    PIN47 - [A] - [WHITE, YELLOW SW,GE] - [.5MM 22AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X6130 ICV PIN3] - [SAME DETAILS AS A6000 DME PIN 46] - [OPEN SIGNAL ICV] - [PIN46 IS CLOSE SIGNAL]


    PIN48 - NOT USED

    PIN49 - NOT USED
    PIN50 - [?] - [GREEN (GN)] - [.5MM 22AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X5255 VANOS PIN1 (INLET VALVE RETARD)] - [ACTIVATE VALVE VANOS INLET RETARD]
    PIN51 - [A] - [YELLOW, BROWN (GE,BR)] - [.5MM 22AWG] - [A6000 DME TO X6165 SOLENOID VALVE SUCKING JET PUMP PIN1] - [ACTIVATE VALVE SUCKING JET PUMP]
    PIN52 - NOT USED


    UNUSED (15 PINS) [3,9,11,12,15,16,18,27,28,32,40,41,48,49,52]
    20AWG (8 PINS) [13,25,33,34,35,36,37,38]
    22AWG (24 PINS) [1,2,4,5,6,7,10,14,17,19,20,22,23,24,26,39,42,43,44 ,45,46,47,50,51]
    28AWG (5 PINS) [8,21,29,30,31]
    Last edited by PITT M3 RR; 08-31-2017 at 06:40 AM.

  9. #84
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Northern CA
    Posts
    1,988
    My Cars
    1998 M3/4/5
    Yes - here are the E46 MSS54 pinouts:

    https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...gid=1743793936
    S54 swap DME flashing - $100
    S54 swap CAN interface board (for proper A/C & check engine light) - $275
    e36 SAP sim/secondary air pump simulator:
    $75 - standard or $170 - plug & play
    e36 post-cat O2 sims: $115 shipped, plug & play

  10. #85
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    2,202
    My Cars
    S54/E36,18 Sierra Denali
    Quote Originally Posted by gpeterson View Post
    Yes - here are the E46 MSS54 pinouts:

    https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...gid=1743793936
    Thats great, thanks! I cant find the ETM anywhere for E46.

  11. #86
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    2,202
    My Cars
    S54/E36,18 Sierra Denali
    The wiring for this swap really is a pain in the ass. It took me 4 days to figure out where to put the relays and all that. I need to make a few adjustments to the wiring info above, but ill handle that once I get a chance.

    with this update, I have, removed the top section of the stock metal DME holder and moved the 2 relays and fuse pack to the E36 OEM location. It took a lot of trial and error, about 40-50 dollars worth of electrical connectors added, then cut out and then added again etc... I wanted the DME pocket to not be cramped and full of wires rubbing wires. I did it by cutting the transmission / 02 harness with the X60001, X60002 (02 senors)and transmission connector... making 3 harness' out of it.

    - first I eliminated the post cat 02 sensors from the x60002 plug by removing pins (7,16,18,19) and their respective ground wires. (DME has them deleted)
    - then I cut and added a connector in the black and violet wire that runs from the plug that leads to the trans
    - after, I added connectors into the red and white wires that connect the x60001 and x60002 plugs.
    - the green relays green and brown / white were also handled in the harness as well. (the brown / white goes to the DME to its not a normal ground.


    Once that was all done, all I needed to do was mount the 2 relays and fuse pack on the right side of the motor, then send the proper wiring back along the fire wall to the area of the dme. For these I used my own identifiers. K and L for the 12Ga wiring and M, N and 02 for the 14GA wiring, 5 total from the relays and fuses and 7 total back to the DME harnesses. L splits and provides power to (2) 14awg wires. I identified the second as A when taking the harness apart. K turned out to be all the red and white with yellow wiring, also a 12awg that splits to feed 2 (14awg). It would almost be easier to build an adapter harness with correct lengths etc to drop in a attach.

    I used the 2, 4 port boards shown (all I could find locally for the time). The wiring coming from the middle is from the fuses and relays (L,K,M,M,02) and the wiring off the the sidesfeeds the DME etc. It's a little more in depth than that, but not much... that's basically the gist of it. Spread everything out and then add quick disconnects in order to make it all manageable.

    I also re used the stock E36 wiring holder above the motor. In the I mounted the power to the fuse box, power from the relays and fuse pack and also andrews harness (X60004 to X20 plug). In front of that, the Z3M harness will sit mounted securely to the fire wall as well.

    make sure all grounds to go ground and use the proper size wiring when working. 12, 14 16, 18, 20, 22ga based on the distance, its not really necessary to just to thinker wire, but feel free to use a size up with no adverse affects other than space.

    lastly when doing it this way, I left the power connector from the fuses and relay on the right side and the DME power remains on the left. I used the SMG inline fuse (40A) on the left with the DME and an inline 60A fuse on the right with the relays power source etc...power is taken from the fusebox supply any theres a nifty little wire holder on there that makes it all clean.

    I checked all grounds etc...fired right up and held perfect. once I enclose the electric connector bolted to the frame, I can move forward with the hard parts!

    TIP: remove the firewall spash shield to access to the DME chamber from the side, it lets you visualize alittle better when working. Now that I see how much room was saved by modifying the original DME holder, I have no doubts at all of the 02 harness,relays and fuses, the way they were will all fit in there with a little work. Just make sure everything is insulated.

    Heres so photos. I have a few more Sam Adams to drink haha so I thats it for now.


















    Last edited by PITT M3 RR; 10-25-2016 at 11:26 AM.

  12. #87
    Join Date
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    Wow you did a lot of unnecessary work. Hopefully you won't have any future electrical issues.
    Last edited by MPWRCPE; 10-27-2016 at 04:10 PM.
    Dave
    '18 RAM 2500 Laramie Cummins
    '15 Pure White VW Touareg TDI
    ///'95 Avus M3 S54B32 Race car -- 2022 ProAutoSports PS1 Champion
    ///'72 Chamonix 2002 (Restoration project)

  13. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by MPWRCPE View Post
    Wow you did a lot of unnecessary work. Hopefully you won't have any future electrical issues. Here's mine:
    I really like that engine cover! How does your swap feel? Also did you do a Z3m cluster or a conversion board?

    As for the work, it wasn't too terrible, it def sucked, but now that its done, I could re-do it in a day. It was just hard being in blind, theres really no way to document everything witht the swap, you kind of just need to jump in and put the effort in. Anyway, ultimately all I did was break up the trans harness, add insulated quick connects to the 4 wires signal wires that link the X6001,2 and trans recognition harness, link proper AWG grounds; then mount the relays etc to the right. If I ever have an issue with them, I can access them easily now vs having to pull the DME out etc. I'm also mounting the Euro expansion tank in that location in front of the DME, so I needed the space to be open!

    I will admit I could have made it work with them in the pocket, but trial and error took me to here so I'm pleased with it. Everything is high quality parts, shrink wrapped with a second layer added, proper gauge etc. I should not have an issue and best off all nothing is jammed anywhere, it all falls into place well. IF I do another S54 swap, I know exactly what will be done next time. Wiring BEFORE I mount the engine haha.

  14. #89
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    Not sure if it's just for me, but seems like the last set of pictures you posted did not post.

    Besides that, awesome build!! Definitely will be using this as reference when doing my s54 swap in the next few months!!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  15. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by PITT M3 RR View Post
    I really like that engine cover! How does your swap feel? Also did you do a Z3m cluster or a conversion board?

    As for the work, it wasn't too terrible, it def sucked, but now that its done, I could re-do it in a day. It was just hard being in blind, theres really no way to document everything witht the swap, you kind of just need to jump in and put the effort in. Anyway, ultimately all I did was break up the trans harness, add insulated quick connects to the 4 wires signal wires that link the X6001,2 and trans recognition harness, link proper AWG grounds; then mount the relays etc to the right. If I ever have an issue with them, I can access them easily now vs having to pull the DME out etc. I'm also mounting the Euro expansion tank in that location in front of the DME, so I needed the space to be open!

    I will admit I could have made it work with them in the pocket, but trial and error took me to here so I'm pleased with it. Everything is high quality parts, shrink wrapped with a second layer added, proper gauge etc. I should not have an issue and best off all nothing is jammed anywhere, it all falls into place well. IF I do another S54 swap, I know exactly what will be done next time. Wiring BEFORE I mount the engine haha.
    Thanks, the stock engine cover is heavy lol!

    The swap feels fantastic. As a disclaimer, I rebuilt the entire car during the swap. Every nut/bolt and component is new or rebuilt, EVERYTHING. So I'm basically driving a new E36, although heavily modified underneath, it looks nearly stock on the outside.

    No MZ3 cluster, just my stock OBDI cluster setup with Garry's CAN controller for a working CEL.

    The car is fast, like really quite fast, and I'm at 5,100 Ft. elevation lol. It will have it's first track day in a couple of weeks so here's hoping I (we) do ok.
    Dave
    '18 RAM 2500 Laramie Cummins
    '15 Pure White VW Touareg TDI
    ///'95 Avus M3 S54B32 Race car -- 2022 ProAutoSports PS1 Champion
    ///'72 Chamonix 2002 (Restoration project)

  16. #91
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    OP-- Nice job on the wiring!

    Quote Originally Posted by MPWRCPE View Post
    Thanks, the stock engine cover is heavy lol!

    The swap feels fantastic. As a disclaimer, I rebuilt the entire car during the swap. Every nut/bolt and component is new or rebuilt, EVERYTHING. So I'm basically driving a new E36, although heavily modified underneath, it looks nearly stock on the outside.

    No MZ3 cluster, just my stock OBDI cluster setup with Garry's CAN controller for a working CEL.

    The car is fast, like really quite fast, and I'm at 5,100 Ft. elevation lol. It will have it's first track day in a couple of weeks so here's hoping I (we) do ok.
    Yup, same here. Almost everything is new and the engine's now nicely modded. The car is crazy fast and fun, but the power doesn't overwhelm the chassis. It is so damn fun and controllable and a blast on track.
    "Fear disturbs your concentration" -Sabine Schmit

    1995 BMW M3/2/5-- S54 + Mk60 DSC, California Smog Legal (Build Thread)
    1998 BMW M3/4/5 Alpine/Modena, Z3 Rack, otherwise stock-- DD without burbles
    2017 Chevy SS, Orange Blast Metallic, 6MT -- DD with burbles

  17. #92
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    a quick re-cap... you did all that wiring for asthetics and not necessarily that the wiring was needed in order to make the car work right? its basically a "clean up" if you will, right?
    98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
    S54 swap CSL

  18. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by MPWRCPE View Post
    Thanks, the stock engine cover is heavy lol!

    The swap feels fantastic. As a disclaimer, I rebuilt the entire car during the swap. Every nut/bolt and component is new or rebuilt, EVERYTHING. So I'm basically driving a new E36, although heavily modified underneath, it looks nearly stock on the outside.

    No MZ3 cluster, just my stock OBDI cluster setup with Garry's CAN controller for a working CEL.

    The car is fast, like really quite fast, and I'm at 5,100 Ft. elevation lol. It will have it's first track day in a couple of weeks so here's hoping I (we) do ok.
    Nice, I knocked out a ton of stuff before the swap so I should be good to go as well for awhile. Is that bimmer world elbow? If so, for what application. THe E46 doesnt fit. Im also contemplating the CAN board VS this cluster. I have the CAN lines run to the X69 already, but Ill still need to deal with coding etc...Ill focus on that later I guess
    Last edited by PITT M3 RR; 10-26-2016 at 02:14 AM.

  19. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by PITT M3 RR View Post
    Is that bimmer world elbow? If so, for what application. THe E46 doesnt fit.
    It's a Macht Schnell elbow for the E46 M3. It did not fit and required trimming.
    Dave
    '18 RAM 2500 Laramie Cummins
    '15 Pure White VW Touareg TDI
    ///'95 Avus M3 S54B32 Race car -- 2022 ProAutoSports PS1 Champion
    ///'72 Chamonix 2002 (Restoration project)

  20. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by th3turk View Post
    Not sure if it's just for me, but seems like the last set of pictures you posted did not post.

    Besides that, awesome build!! Definitely will be using this as reference when doing my s54 swap in the next few months!!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I can see them all, I think there were 9 total above and sure think, there are plenty of places to look if you get stumped. Plus I can help when ever!


    Quote Originally Posted by Bimmerman535i View Post
    OP-- Nice job on the wiring!



    Yup, same here. Almost everything is new and the engine's now nicely modded. The car is crazy fast and fun, but the power doesn't overwhelm the chassis. It is so damn fun and controllable and a blast on track.
    Thanks, today really solidified it though, I got everything 99% how I want it.

    Glad to hear about the swap too, the M52 w/S52 cams, tune and decent amount of upgrades never gave me the feeling I wanted. I am hoping to get that with this swap.

    Anyway, today, I got into the DME side further and pretty much wrapped it up. The foam covering was fitted, then I fabricated an aluminum bracket that holds the EKP relay and the Fuse between the + and the DME using the mounts from old BMW plastic. I also mounted the 3 fuses from andrews harness along the foam cover as well. Fuel pump is far left. Once that was done I got into "proofing" the junction boards. basically I heated electric tape over them until it molded completely around the bare metal. Its removable and protective. Then I cut a shield from an old Glock 30 case lid and secured it using the unused terminal port screws. It actually worked out quite well.

    Lastly it was time to mount the expansion tank. I fabricated a lower and upper bracket. The lower bolts to the tray and the upper is a z shape which falls right at the front of the Expansion tank. I used a BMW hood push pin secure to secure it to the bracket. Its solid and quickly removable if ever needed. This is where I called it a night. Now, I am pleased with how this turned out. Its clean, sorted and all fuses and relays a readily accessible. On the fuse box side, I need to finalize the power supply end, but I dont see that being an issue. Once thats done, all that will be needed is a bracket to hold the Z3M harness up!!!

    Here are some photos -- give me a min to upload them.














    - - - Updated - - -









    - - - Updated - - -





    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by TH3 Shifty View Post
    a quick re-cap... you did all that wiring for asthetics and not necessarily that the wiring was needed in order to make the car work right? its basically a "clean up" if you will, right?
    Sorry I missed this earlier. Because this stuff is meant for the E46 DME box, it's very tight in the E36 hole. I was not comfortable with how cramped it was shoving everything in there. Plus if you blow a fuse or a relay gives, you have to open the port just to diagnose.

    But to answer your question, it's not necessary, you can keep the trans harness just the way it is and the car will run and probably be fine!

    M if you want help with anything let me know and I'll do what I can. I'm gaining a pretty good understanding of the process
    Last edited by PITT M3 RR; 10-26-2016 at 02:01 AM.

  21. #96
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  22. #97
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  23. #98
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    Thanks man! Appreciate it.


    One day off - went over to keep pressing on.

    -Finished the expansion tank brackets.
    -finished the driver side power supply to relays and fuses
    -finished mounting the harness for good!

    This took some time, the bracket I made I dipped in rustoleum and let dry while I worked other areas. The harness I mounted by making a plastic flexible bracket that uses one of the vanity cap bolts and the other side is a series of OEM securing clips on the main loom for height and one zip tie to maintain the firewall orientation.

    few other small things, coolant level sensor, E46 intake elbow secured, and functional. I purchased an oem intake support bracket and after seeing exactly what's involved, I'll be going custom..oh well.

    Few photos

    - - - Updated - - -

    2 more
    Attached Images Attached Images

  24. #99
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    Few more shots from today

    - - - Updated - - -

    ......
    Attached Images Attached Images

  25. #100
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    So awesome! Super excited for you.
    98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
    S54 swap CSL

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