S54 ---> Hellrot E36 328I

[PITT M3 RR]

You can use the standard E36 cluster without a CAN board, you just won't have a check engine light or proper A/C.

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That is correct. The z3m cluster will get the engine temp from the DME via CAN.

Ok yup thats the correct info there.

I think I'll yank the techna adapter then, no need for it anymore!

[PITT M3 RR]

Crank damper installed and properly torqued w new hardware. S54 Alternator - E36 PS pump installed and Oil filter adapter installed. I also ordered an oil cooler from summit. Once it's here, I'll determine if I want push lock or not for the lines.

As far as I know the S54 alt is the one to use. If it doesn't work out I'll swap it out. Same for PS pulley. I also ordered and installed new injector o rings.

Heard back from my header seller, apparently they were returned to his house so he has to reship them.

[LSxDreamer]

Making pretty quick progress. Car is sure to be blast when done.

[purduinaM3]

If you use an E36 PS pump, you'll need the E36 PS pulley. If using the E46 pump, then you can use the S54 pulley. If you don't use the pulley that came with the pump, it will not line up with where the belt routes. E46 pump works but the AN fitting is larger so you lose being able to run E36 factory PS lines. S54 alternator will work fine.

[PITT M3 RR]

It should be a blast! Purduina, thanks for the info, I used full E36 pump and pulley with S54 bracketry. Would you suggest waiting until I receive the swap harness to place everything on the motor then put it in the car, or can I join the motor and tranny, toss on OEM harness install it all and link the swap harness once it arrives? I'm getting anxious and waiting for this harness and stuff is killing me!

Also installed motor mounts tonight, standard E36 mounts. Little info for anyone reading or thinking of the swap. Look for a southern / NOT rusty motor. The motor mounts bolt up, BUT use slightly different mounting points in the block. So I needed to use two threaded holes that were unused/ exposed to the elements for 11 years. I had to PB blast, wire brush, blow off and repeat multiple times to clean the threads up. Nerve racking. It's possible to make custom mount arms, but would obviously be a pain in the ass. I got each side to work out luckily and anti-seized the hell out of the bolts.

also got all of the N54 exhaust studs mounted. There are awesome because they have torx heads for a super easy install. Also antiseized these, figure it couldn't hurt based on why I even had to begin this swap haha.

l

[PITT M3 RR]

Anyone want to chime in on my questions above?!

Today I wrapped up a few more things. E36 Pedal removed, along with throttle cable. There are DIYs for that so no need for photos, if it helps though, throttle cable pulls out from engine bay and there is NOTHING to the E36 pedal, its 1lb if that haha I am saving everything to make the swap 100% reversible if necessary.

Also Ohm tested my TPS sensors, they read 1.3-4.3, I believe that is correct. I am def going to double check that though, I do not want to have to replace those once the motor is in for a long time!

I also installed the E46 M3 fuel pressure regulator while maintaining the E36 fuel filter. Mine was less that 500 miles old and I did not want to waste it. Everything is tight and secure. Notice I had to use 2, 1/2 in self tapping screws on the fuel filter bracket as the original stud broke right off months ago. They were installed, then backed out and anti-seized. That with the shield should suffice for protection. Also as the E46 FPR isnt meant to be in this locating fitment isnt Ideal. I wanted it snug as possible. You can see where the actual regulator is near the two brake lines and vapor return line. They were each given a rubber vacuum line shield from rubbing and also a used a broken plastic hose holder there as well. Now, If/when the FPR vibrates there it wont chew the lines. Also I secure the mounting studs for the E36 FPR assembly in vacuum line and anti-seize so they stay useful of ever needed again.

I also ripple check the valve clearance. I think I need a more specific set of shims. Can any one chime in based on my results. the MM reading seems accurate but the variation in standard are throwing me off. I havnt really dove deep into understanding this as my shims and stuff arent here, but any help is appreciated.

INTAKE EXHUAST
valve front - valve rear valve front - valve rear

CYL1 .010 .009 .014 .013
CYL2 .011 .010 .014 .014
CYL3 .010 .011 .015 .016
CYL4 .010 .010 .014 .015
CYL5 .009 .010 .013 .014
CYL6 .011 .011 .013 .013

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ALSO - can anyone look at the last two photos and tell me if 1.) is the piece in my hand that came broken on my S54 the same thing as the return thats still on my E36? and 2.) If so, where the hell does it connect to? Does it go to that line from the air rail? I know one of the ends is for the brake booster, but the other? Thanks!

[deception]

http://www.billswebspace.com/MS54B32TrainingModule.pdf


should explain which hose that is. i dont know the answer specifically, but that pdf should cover it.

[PITT M3 RR]

Thanks man - the ICV line is on there and I think that lower solenoid is the vapor return. That means that dedicated line from rear of alt air rail is for brake booster and ??WHAT haha there are two nipples! I'll figure it out.

btw that bill guy made a nice pdc - thanks!

EDIT - I figured it out - I am missing an air shut off valve. Goes from second nipple to intake (11617833212) I found one on eBay so it's ordered.

[deception]

Thanks man - the ICV line is on there and I think that lower solenoid is the vapor return. That means that dedicated line from rear of alt air rail is for brake booster and ??WHAT haha there are two nipples! I'll figure it out.

btw that bill guy made a nice pdc - thanks!

EDIT - I figured it out - I am missing an air shut off valve. Goes from second nipple to intake (11617833212) I found one on eBay so it's ordered.

nice, i knew you would figure out. subscribed. really researching an s54 in an e39. alot of different challenges from an E36 i would say.

[PITT M3 RR]

Sure did I appreciate the help.

Got in there today and installed the walbro with the techna adapter. Fit like a glove. I found I didn't need the connector from the walbro harness. I simply used the BMW push lock on the walbro and it was very secure.

Few shots of fitment and quality. I also installed a new tank housing ring but it really wasn't needed the seal was still about perfect. Oh well.

also oil cooler arrived - looks like a nice piece. It's listed as a trans cooler but derale advised its compatible for engine, trans or fuel with little pressure drop. -10aN fitting provided w it.

when I popped the back seat I found this "good luck" note with some change and a document from 1998 under there. No idea why but it's neat!

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[PITT M3 RR]

oil cooler

[dungdn93]

Performance Kassel in York PA. While waiting for a new engine - L / R cover gaskets time - time front cover main seal - cooling water pipes o rings - head gasket - replace air rail o rings - gaskets ITBS - water pump buffer - the buffer temperature - cooling water main pipe gaskets - bearings WPC - Rod bolts still needed - FPR - Filter - fuel line

[PITT M3 RR]

Here's an updated list

- S54
- swap harness
- dme
- tune
- 255 walbro w techna sleeve
- Viton o ring for CPV
- coolant pipe w / sensor thread
- 6 speed intake mani--------------------------------$5200
- FPR---------------------------------------------------$70
- Pedal-------------------------------------------------$30
- Wpc bearing ----------------------------------------$300
- Rod bolts --------------------------------------------$96 (2 sets)
- Misc Seals, gaskets, orings -------------------------$200
- S54 Z3M cluster ------------------------------------$300
- Oil cooler AN fitting adapter------------------------$30
- N54 studs--------------------------------------------$36
- Ebay headers (used)--------------------------------$110
- E46 M3 fuel line (used Ebay)-----------------------$30.00
- Derale 51610 fluid cooler (summit)---------------.$109.00
- VSK4 weisco shims (summit)........--------------...$49.00
- feeler gauges (autozone)..................................$8.99
- BMW fuel tank/pump seal ......................,,........$9.98
- All those seals and gaskets pictured...................$172.00
- air shut off valve------------------------------------$29.00
- crank damper bolts---------------------------------$30.00
- angle torque gauge---------------------------------$12.00
- injector orings---------------------------------------$15.00

[PITT M3 RR]

Sorry guys been a delay with a few parts. I was "ripped off" on my headers, Paypal took care of me and a minor set back with some other items. I'm not going to get into it yet, but if it comes to it I'll spill the beans if necessary.

ECS however has been taking good cars of me!

Valve adjustment kit, proper clutch align tool and new header nuts. Im
slowly moving forward...can't do much without the few big remaining parts.

[PITT M3 RR]

Valves adjusted
VC gaskets and properly torqued
flywheel installed - locktite red 89lbs
disk and PP installed locktite blue 42lbs if I recall correctly.
New SS pivot ball, retaining clip
trans mounted
starter
subframe
motor mounts
Slave cylinder
SSK new hardware
steering coupler (pain in the ass)
steering rack
Ps lines

still waiting on harness from Kassel, got the ECu in hand though.
Mince I get first start, I'll be extending the harness to the E36 ECU location.

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Pics

[PITT M3 RR]

For anyone doing the swap, if you need heater hose and don't feel like paying BMW close to 100, for 18 you can go to autozone for these and trim them.

ALSO with the shifter detents replaced shifter feels much better just messing with it quickly.

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.z

[Patfa38]

Can you take me for a ride when you get done lol? I've been wanting to do this for a while

[ckpitt55]

Awesome build my man! Need to see this beast when you get her running

[TH3 Shifty]

is Z3m cluster plug N play or do you have to do a lot of re-wiring to make it work?

[PITT M3 RR]

Pat - you can def have a ride when it's done and Pitt, I'll bring it over and check out your build. I want to see that custom work.

As for the Z3M cluster, it's close to plug and play. GPeterson took the time to pin everything out and has provided me with an over all description of differences and a list of the changes that need made.

After clearing up an issue with the document, Basically you'll be adding 4 wires from the E46/adapter harness to the cluster, and then removing maybe 11 (I have to count exactly) existing wires from the E36 body harness. Basically snip them behind there and secure each side safely. That's how I understand it - and I believe that's correct. If I were to do it again, Andrews harness with petersons CAN translator would be used forsure w a regular E36 M or euro cluster*.

Anyways fresh 7L of 10-60 arrived, a new e36 temp sensor to plug the techna adapter hole and I received my HFM and elbow as well. Harness was said to arrive this week. If it doesn't, I'm having my credit union reimburse me and go after the supplier. They've already stated they're ready to proceed should it come to that. It's been 2 months (6 extra weeks) and a ton of lies that I've waited for the adapter harness and 6 speed airbox. I'm getting upset at this point.

[gpeterson]

Here are the cluster pinout differences - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

[PITT M3 RR]

Yes thats the document /\ I appreciate the info.

At the moment I'm working on finding where exactly the 4 additional wires are coming from. I should know more when I receive my swap harness.

I'm also trying to determine if the Z3M cluster needs coded, or will be plug and play. My swap DME has my vin coded, but with EWS delete, so I'm not sure if cluster will work or display code / tamper.

[FastAlpine]

Damn man, love the work into this! I am starting my swap this week and will be referencing this thread and probably reaching out with any questions I have.

[Bimmerman535i]

Yes thats the document /\ I appreciate the info.

At the moment I'm working on finding where exactly the 4 additional wires are coming from. I should know more when I receive my swap harness.

I'm also trying to determine if the Z3M cluster needs coded, or will be plug and play. My swap DME has my vin coded, but with EWS delete, so I'm not sure if cluster will work or display code / tamper.

Ah, I see where you were coming from. We did code my cluster in with the swap VIN, but I don't know whether that was for CA compliance or whether it was needed. It worked just fine uncoded while we were chasing down other issues too. Tamper dot only appeared when we started playing with the mileage to figure out how to display chassis miles.

Regarding cluster wiring, I didn't de-pin any of the connectors for the unused wires, I just left them there. The only reason I can think of that I would've depinned would be if the Z3M cluster expected a different input signal from E36 (OBD1 in my case) cluster.

It's kinda amusing now because setting cruise control turns on/off the Z3M TPMS bulb, since the indicator is in the same place.

[gpeterson]

Yes thats the document /\ I appreciate the info.

At the moment I'm working on finding where exactly the 4 additional wires are coming from. I should know more when I receive my swap harness.

I'm also trying to determine if the Z3M cluster needs coded, or will be plug and play. My swap DME has my vin coded, but with EWS delete, so I'm not sure if cluster will work or display code / tamper.

Your harness will need to run CANH and CANL from MSS54 x60004 to the cluster. The other two are A/C signals, I'll document when I can.