S54 ---> Hellrot E36 328I

[Harvington]

Mmm great progress. That's again for being a diligent poster on your thread.

Another bump for the 3.38 diff with the s54. I adore it.

[PITT M3 RR]

I'm going with OEM M3 FCABs, thanks for that info.

No prob on the updates, I'm almost done with 12 shifts in 11 days and OT haha. This weekend I'll update a bit.

and no 3:38 here...3:91 haha real low, it's a blast around town.

[PITT M3 RR]

Installed the Spal today. Works excellent! Before the auxiliary fan would kick in when needed and take a solid 2-3 minutes to cool the coolant. The spal handles the cooling in about 30 seconds. I kept my auxiliary fan as well so they work together. The aux fan pushes the outside air toward the rad and the spal pulls it through and away.

The entire kit was $159 on Ebay. That got me the 16" spal puller 2049CFM, spal "195 degree install kit" and their brackets. I Wanted to keep my shroud, as I hear it's important so I did that. I also used the opportunity to use compressed air and blow the rad clean from back to front...a lot of shit and dust came out. I suggest doing that.

A rough coverage of the install.
- drain coolant
- remove rad / hoses / shroud and place on a table
- position fan to the hot side of the rad and close to the top. I left space at the bottom and to the side so the shroud can be maintained.
- trim spal brackets and bolt it on.
- reinstall the set up with "split" shroud so it can be removed with out taking the other stuff out.

wiring.
- B+ to relay w 40amp fuse
- red from relay to fan
- orange to a run/start source
- grey to the black and green wire at the BMW temp sensor
- ground fan somewhere

That's all, it kicks in with the aux fan and off with it as well. It's pretty loud, but as a sound involved in an entire car, it fits in just fine.

also I don't know why people say the spal brackets suck, I posted a pic of me holding the whole rad up by the fan using them, they're completely fine. When I get day light I'll take a pic of the clearance and final install

[bimerok]

That OEM shroud is not doing anything for you except for blocking airflow. OEM shrouds designed to work with a clutch fan.

If the fan is mounted directly to the radiator with very little to no space between the fan and the rad, no shroud will be useful. But if you mount a fan with a space from rad, then you need to do a proper shroud for fan to be effective, otherwise the air will be sucked around the opennings.

[PITT M3 RR]

The spal sits about 1/4 inch away from the rad, I figured the shroud would slightly keep pressure so the fan wouldn't recirculate air from the engine bay. even if the fan is off set.

Id test all this in inpa but my damn laptop battery shit the bed. You're saying at speed, no shroud will flow fine and at low speed with fans active, the shroud is irrelevant?

[gpeterson]

That OEM shroud is not doing anything for you except for blocking airflow. OEM shrouds designed to work with a clutch fan.

If the fan is mounted directly to the radiator with very little to no space between the fan and the rad, no shroud will be useful. But if you mount a fan with a space from rad, then you need to do a proper shroud for fan to be effective, otherwise the air will be sucked around the opennings.

Agreed - I'm running the same fan, custom brackets, no shroud. Summer temps here are over 100f and I use A/C. I also have the stock pusher fan's high speed wired to an E46 PWM fan controller.

[bimerok]

The spal sits about 1/4 inch away from the rad, I figured the shroud would slightly keep pressure so the fan wouldn't recirculate air from the engine bay. even if the fan is off set.

If your fan sits 1/4 inch from the rad it would be hard enough to make a useful shroud, but with the one you have it won't help at all. Only block air from passing through the rest of the radiator. Also big percentage of the air moved by the fan is just going to go through the 1/4" gap, which has way less resistance then pulling it through the rad.

Id test all this in inpa but my damn laptop battery shit the bed.

That would be extremely difficult to accurately test using ECU and OEM sensors.

You're saying at speed, no shroud will flow fine and at low speed with fans active, the shroud is irrelevant?

Shrouds are made mostly for idling or siting in a slow moving traffic. After about 35-40mph they are becoming a blocking point for free airflow and create unnecessary resistance. At that point radiator would be more efficient without shroud, which creates high pressure behind radiator.

At low speed with puller fan active the shroud will only be relevant in helping conducting air through the whole radiator area (instead of just the area where fan is) ONLY IF the shroud and the fan are made to work together correctly. Correctly meaning the fan sits at relevant distance from the radiator, the shroud is designed for the type of fan being used, shroud's outlet correctly aligned with the fan. Anything else is pretty much like putting a spoiler and a high pressure fuel pump on the lawn mower and expecting it to be faster and more stable...

[PITT M3 RR]

Awesome info, I may end up removing it then, or if there is time, spacing the fan and making an aluminum shroud. It's just nice peace of mind now that I can rely on the cooling system 100%. It's getting warmer out forsure.

today I got the oil pressure gauge installed, turns out the oil temp sender was just long enough in my distribution block to impede the flow for pressure reading.

So tomorrow I am going to hit Napa and see what I can do with some fittings to make a "block". The kits on the market are around $109 so if I can do it cheaper I will, if I can't, I'll take the fittings back and order one. So far it appears as if $30 of so of fittings will do the trick!

i got this nice SS oil line from eBay. It allows for remote mounting of the sender away from the vibration of the motor.

[TH3 Shifty]

is there an issue with mounting the oil pressure sender on the back? like not enough space? i have the bimmerworld adaptor on my S52 but going to switch it out to the S54.. i also have bimmerworlds electric fan kit.. pretty sure it should swap over right?

[PITT M3 RR]

is there an issue with mounting the oil pressure sender on the back? like not enough space? i have the bimmerworld adaptor on my S52 but going to switch it out to the S54.. i also have bimmerworlds electric fan kit.. pretty sure it should swap over right?

Theres no issue, your BW block should be fine. I just had 1/8 npt fitting around and made my own. They're cheap and easily attainable. Only issue I had was inside the block, my VDO temp sensor went so far in that it blocked the flow to my pressure sensor. That was with parts I had around. After work I am going to go grab a few fittings to give me a bit more clearance inside for the flow.

Also, I am gong to switch the stock sensor to the back port and the custom stuff to the front one. That way space will not be an issue at all.

The he can kit should be fine too as long as it's controlled by a temperature sensor that grounds out to complete the circuit. I'm getting my signal from the (black and green) low temp wore off the sensor in the rad.

[PITT M3 RR]

I removed the shroud to start the day, the fan moves tha extra bit of air now, no ill effects.

Finished up the gauges. Oil pressure works great, but moving the temp sender away from the OFH about 2 inches changed its responsiveness. Before it was sunk into the OFH and had immediate fluctuation. 210 degrees fully warm + or - what ever based on driving style. Now it seems to sit about 200-205 warmed and takes a bit of hard throttle to move. I would have focused on it more but I was side tracked with a check engine light and rough idle / back firing.

Anyway, pressure wise - cold start is up of over 60lbs, fully warm is about 18-20 at idle. Pressure rises as it should M through RPMs. Cool to monitor.

Back to to the misfiring. INPA says lambda regulator 2 and 1. I received lambda 2 multiple times at idle. 800-850 rpm 16% relative filling. Lambda 1 came in 1 time. If I was all 2 I would have suspected the O2, but since 1 came in also that confused me and pointed to a vac leak and / or HFM malfunction.

First I used my smoke machine and found a huge leak where my elbow meets the airbox, I fixed that with a new hose clamp, rechecked and leak free. Cleared codes and fired up...same issue. I then disconnected the HFM and everything smoothed out. Checked codes and got HFM and Air temp sensor, but no lambda codes. Based on this I dropped the HFM in a bad of isopropyl rubbing alcohol and shook it up. Dried it and reinstalled...no change.



Cleared codes and checked again with HFM in and got lambda 2 again, 3 events...my last test was to swap my working HFM from my E46. I did and got the same result. That solidified that I have a bad upstream 02 on cyl 4-6 and most likely my leak caused lambda 1 to trip a code. I just ordered 2 new 02's from RMEuropean.

The ones in using have 102K miles on them and came with the engine so it is about time. I hope that these new ones wake the car up even more. Should be a nice boost in responsivness and power.

[bimerok]

That is cool smoke machine. Do you have a write up on how you made it?

[PITT M3 RR]

Thanks, I didn't write anything up, but in a nut shell, it's just an aluminum water bottle, glow plug and a few fittings.

Glow plug bolts in bottom, fill with baby oil to just below the ignitor then from the top compressed air is plumbed down into the fluid so it bubbles on to the plug and burns off. A nipple on the side will allow it to release the smoke into what ever you're testing. That make sense?

I thiugh about making them and selling for around $100, but I don't know how many people want a smoke machine haha. Personally I use it all the time. Vac leaks /'boost / emissions / fuel etc

I would've never known I had that slight leak there if my O2 sensor didn't also go out… The car probably would've just continue to compensate for the minimal amount of air coming in messing up the AFR.

[OptionlessM]

Not to belabor the point....

don't go dual 2.5 unless you are planning on doing ALL the bolt ons. I.e, airbox, cams, SS V1 or Epic headers. Othewise, the E46 M3 stock 60mm pipe is more than enough. If you're not tracking or racing extensively, stick with the stock diameter size. The gains from dual 2.5 don't show up unless you are moving an astonishingly large amount of air through the engine.

If you are going to be racing exclusively, just get the BimmerWorld 3.5" exhaust/tinnitus-er and pair it with SS or Epic headers. Don't do this on a street car unless you hate torque and hate your hearing.

point is...the S54 is extremely picky on exhaust, specifically on merge location. It can make crazy power with a free flowing exhaust, but to do so without gutting your torque is not a simple task. Stick with 60mm or thereabouts for now and follow the OE piping and crossovers. You can use stock Section 1 (or euro cats!) and stock section 2, then merge the sec2 with your choice of muffler...just don't do it crappily like I did.

What is the latest on exhaust options that fit and work well? I will have an evolve or csl airbox and some form of cat-less header (Euro OEM or aftermarket).

I want cats in the midsection somewhere and would like it to not be too loud.

Aftermarket e46M section 1 with cats --> OEM E46M section 2 --> ???

[PITT M3 RR]

What is the latest on exhaust options that fit and work well? I will have an evolve or csl airbox and some form of cat-less header (Euro OEM or aftermarket).

I want cats in the midsection somewhere and would like it to not be too loud.

Aftermarket e46M section 1 with cats --> OEM E46M section 2 --> ???

Get euro headers / sec 1 --> e46 sec 2 ---> that muffler i posted a few pages back in the build w some custom tips.

im working on a jig for the OEM headers, bolt them on and eliminate the car. Should be very close to the euro set up then. 2 200 cell cats and youre G2G

I got a few more parts recently.

ARC8 17x9.5 et35
PSS9's are on
merlin Motorsport M12 pressure adapter in the mail
esstwood fender roller with thermal gun
going to install all the solid steering Guibo w/M3 FCABs and new LCA's

- - - Updated - - -

Pic

[OptionlessM]

Are euro section 1's easy enough to come by not just go with an aftermarket?

[PITT M3 RR]

Are euro section 1's easy enough to come by not just go with an aftermarket?

I see them often enough. But you can get 200 cell cats welded in as well.

[TH3 Shifty]

i noticed you changed positions on the factory pressure sender and the one for the gauges.. (top and bottom)... any reason why? also i think ill also remote mount my pressure sender for my gauge too.. my VDO sender quit working and i think its because of the vibration of the engine.. i have a Bimmerworld adapter that im going to change from my S52.

where did you get that braided hose from? and what were the sizes you used?

im getting ready to pull my engine, all thats left if the shift linkage and the driveshaft and the clutch line..

[TH3 Shifty]

hey also.. looks like theres no ETA on the Z3M driver mount.. so i have to use my E36 M3 one.. any issues with that? also do the mounts bolt to the block on the front 4 holes or use the rearward 4?

[PITT M3 RR]

Nice I kept my clutch line attached and removed the slave from Trans.

SS line was an eBay kit.1/8npt to -4an this kit http://m.ebay.com/itm/Quick-Car-24-S...%257Ciid%253A1

i move the pressure sensor around so I could have room to install the brass fittings. Everything works, however, my temp gauges is numb being so far from the OFH. I ordered that piece above and will have bolt stock and VDO pressure gauges from that and the temp will be alone again in the second hole.

The remote pressure sensor fits well along the frame well,'so I suggest that!

[PITT M3 RR]

hey also.. looks like theres no ETA on the Z3M driver mount.. so i have to use my E36 M3 one.. any issues with that? also do the mounts bolt to the block on the front 4 holes or use the rearward 4?

both my mounts are my M52 ones and I have had zero issues. Take a look at your S52 block and which ever are used, use those on the S54. I can't recall exactly which, but I'm pretty sure once you put the arm up to the block it's self explanatory. For expensive as this is, it's nice to save some $ in a few places! Haha

[M52 POWER!]

The only advantage of the Z3M drivers engine mount is it has the bolt hole location for the intake manifold support bracket.

[PITT M3 RR]

good news and bad luck.

Good news is, fender rolling went well, Ground control camber plates with coil spring perch arrived and the oil pressure fitting arrived. Bad news is I am an idiot and when removing the brass fittings, starting furthest out and the leverage I had when loosening cracked the damn fitting off in the oil filter housing. It my fault 100%. It was a combination of inpatients and "DIYing". When I originally installed the VDO oil temp sensors, I got a 1/8 NPT sensor and a M12x1.5 to 1/8 adapter to screw into the OFH. In order for that to work (which it did) I had to drill the opening of the M12 adapter just so slight to allow the VDO sensor to go all the way in...that weakened it and the load I applied to it from that far out killed it. Like I said, my fault and the PROPER way to do it is to purchase the VDO M12x1.5 temp sensor which will mount right to the OFH without an adapter. That will allow the merlin motorsport adapter to be used in the other hole to mount the factory oil pressure sender and the VDO pressure gauge.

I have ordered a new filter housing and it'll be here tomorrow. The final final product I see going like this. In the hole closest to the block, Ill remove the plug, install a vdo M12 sensor and be done there. That will provide an accurate temp. In the other hole, Ill removed the oem pressure sender, install the merlin adapter, place the oem pressure sender at the rear of it and the SS oil line to the VDO pressure sender in the other port. That should be the last I deal with those. It was trial and error, but the resolution is being able to hook up oil pressure and temp for around $24.00 now vs the $100+ oil blocks. I obviously ended up spending more, but now we know. I post results when I am off. Plan for the other OFH is to be determined. Im thinking of drilling and tapping for maybe an AN fitting and possibly giving range for a few more options. Ill worry about it when the car is done.

I also installed a Solid steering guibo...eliminated all the slop in my 165K steering rack. Steering was heavy and vague before, now it is just heavy. 1 drive with it killed the steering rack, massive leak from the pinion seal. The steering was never great with the car and I think the solid guibo turned the knife that was already in a dying rack. Ill be getting a Z3 Rack and an OEM guibo. I wont be messing with the solid steering guibos or even the E34 U joint unit. Seems nice, but not worth it. A urethane piece could work, but I don't know of any.

Wanted to add I found small bits of RTV on the safe side of the oil filter. I wont be using it again, or nearly as much when I redo the oil pan gasket. It didn't work and now I see it actually flaked a bit. Ill give one shot of hylomar or do RTV at the corners only.

[PITT M3 RR]

pic

[M52 POWER!]

Pitt, FYI the 330 ZHP rack has superior ratio and feel than the Z3 rack. I got mine from the rack doctor for a great price... http://shop.rackdoctor.net/2002-2005...892-712ZHP.htm

Also I use Toyota FIPG for sealing the oil pan in just the corners, the stuff works great and never flakes off.