S54 ---> Hellrot E36 328I

[bimerok]

Does anyone know what the marks are between 200/260? Specifically?

220/240?

[PITT M3 RR]

Funny guy haha after some aggressive driving all day. I believe it's 215 and 245. That being said, I didn't see any temps higher than 215ish all day. The oil took a lot longer than I thought to warm up, actually about 15 min of driving around. if I get into the throttle in first, there's zero traction, 2nd zero traction 3rd it finally grabs. 225's aren't cutting it.

The pSs9s with hardware were also taken care of. I'll install them once I get the E46 hoe. These got all new hardware for strut tops!

[MPWRCPE]

Funny guy haha after some aggressive driving all day. I believe it's 215 and 245. That being said, I didn't see any temps higher than 215ish all day. The oil took a lot longer than I thought to warm up, actually about 15 min of driving around. if I get into the throttle in first, there's zero traction, 2nd zero traction 3rd it finally grabs. 225's aren't cutting it.

The pSs9s with hardware were also taken care of. I'll install them once I get the E46 hoe. These got all new hardware for strut tops!

It's funny, when I drive my car 'normally', it's really fast. When I 'drive it like I stole it', it's incredibly fukin fast, like OMG fast. I pulled a 996TT pretty good in 'drive it like I stole it' mode lol. And the sounds it makes....oh the sounds.

[Bimmerman535i]

It's funny, when I drive my car 'normally', it's really fast. When I 'drive it like I stole it', it's incredibly fukin fast, like OMG fast. I pulled a 996TT pretty good in 'drive it like I stole it' mode lol. And the sounds it makes....oh the sounds.

Yuuuuup.

Takes a while to warm up, but the noises this thing makes with a Karbonius airbox....good god. The only think my car really needs is a lower diff, the 3.15 is way too long.

[PITT M3 RR]

Oh yea the car screams and all I have is that filter. I can't even imagine an airbox.

As for diffs, obviously the 3:91 is a blast, but I've yet to track so I don't know if it's too much. 3:23 would be more civil, but I'd rather up it to 18's to effective lengthen the ratio. Either way the 3:91 is staying.

[MPWRCPE]

Oh yea the car screams and all I have is that filter. I can't even imagine an airbox.

As for diffs, obviously the 3:91 is a blast, but I've yet to track so I don't know if it's too much. 3:23 would be more civil, but I'd rather up it to 18's to effective lengthen the ratio. Either way the 3:91 is staying.

I built a new 3 clutch 3.38 for the street, which is fantastic with a 5 speed and 245/40-17's.

Problem is this motor needs more gear for the track, so I'm getting ready to build a 3 clutch 3.91 for that duty with 255/40-17's. Swapping the diff out once a month or so shouldn't be too bad but we'll see.

Either way this swap is pure gold.

[M52 POWER!]

I built a new 3 clutch 3.38 for the street, which is fantastic with a 5 speed and 245/40-17's.

Problem is this motor needs more gear for the track, so I'm getting ready to build a 3 clutch 3.91 for that duty with 255/40-17's. Swapping the diff out once a month or so shouldn't be too bad but we'll see.

Either way this swap is pure gold.

YEA, it's almost costing its weight in gold for me....

[MPWRCPE]

YEA, it's almost costing its weight in gold for me....

Better get used to the idea lol.

[PITT M3 RR]

Finally got some time at the garage. Nothing huge, just got the $34 Ebay a pillar mounted...it was a shitty fit. I had to mount it, then Remove the whole thing with BMW pillar and use my heat-gun to mold them to the same shape. Turned out well. I need to figure out what two more gauges to use now haha.

Also installed this Ebay steering wheel with NRG hub. Fitment and feel is spot on. I'm impressed with the suede finish / stitch..for $34 dollars also. The wheel was recommended by a member who's been using it for awhile.

[CblockM3]

Ive found different values scattered for some stuff. Throttle pos sensors for example,
I know that value is out there. If there was more than two sensors, I just tested them to see if they were all with in spec.

My .02 is get the motor in and cranked over before adding additional expense. At 110K all mine are perfect. I cleaned the CPS and replaced the oring, didn't touch the crank sensor, knock or TPS. I have no codes and the car pulls well. After you get it all buttoned up, use INPA to see if anything is throwing a code.

On another note, I got a damn E46M in Atlanta. I'm flying down to get it on 3/8. It this point in time I'm keeping the red car as well and MAY go more "all out" with it now and use it as a track / street racing experience car. Just for fun though. Pics of that below.

Also going to be installing an oil temp gauge today, and I got at the PSS9 stuff in. Once they're assembled I'll post up.

Wow, congrats! That E46 looks super clean and your 328 turned out amazing!

[PITT M3 RR]

Thanks, I appreciate it. I think you need to do the next hellrot sedan S54 ha ha. With everybody around now I think it's basically just another doable swap . I'll have a few more updates soon, I'm adding oil pressure gauge in there. And I fly down to Atlanta on Wednesday to bring home the other one. Pretty excited!

[PITT M3 RR]

Made it to Atlanta and back in one piece. Oil pressure gauge and sender were here when I got back. Weather permitting, I will be getting that added in to the pillar tomorrow.

While I was in Atlanta, I went to RNI motorsports with the guy I got my car from. In all, I saw close to 35 M's...nice ones. I rode in another E36/S54 with CSL mapping and velocity stacks. Same diff ratio etc...it felt quick. So today I warmed mine up and went out. I'd say they felt equal, but that takes me to my next point...I wanted to do some more comparing haha...From a soft rolling start in first I got into it and the wheels broke loose clear through third, hit 4th and left as if the clutch was rolling on its own for a second. I let it go and smelled the tires and or clutch? No issues after that, but it pissed me off. I'm using the UUC E34 M5 Kit with 8.5 flywheel. Supposed to be good for 450WHP. Anyway, after driving the E46 (with CDV) for over 700 miles yesterday and today, I can't tell if my E36 clutch is spongy or the same as it was before.

First thing I am doing tomorrow is deleting the CDV tomorrow. My E36 clutch feel is depressing compared to the E46. That being said, my E36/S54 will shit on the E46M haha It's faster...feels a lot faster. I'll document the stuff tomorrow and post up. Here's a few pics from last 2 days.

- - - Updated - - -

H

[PITT M3 RR]

Bad news first - stupid car rolled off my ramps and into my engine lift as I was warming it up. Dumb me left ebrake off after testing the work I just completed. I kicked my stool clear out of the garage then looked at the damage. Very minor, but unacceptable. I have an ECS rep on the way. I'll have my grill thing and passenger lower door sprayed at the same time. Just an unfortunate occurrence. $159.00 from ECS and I'll sell off the lip,'grill and trim cheap. So blah

Anyway, this happened after an ECS clutch line install and full brake fluid flush. My clutch was feeling spongy and seemed to have a dead spot. The brakes...they've never impressed me, even with slotted rotors and aftermarket pads.

I read a lot about how guys lost their clutch pedal pressure after SS line install and bleeding did nothing. I did not have that issue. The key was to remove slave from Trans, then remove slave from the clutch line. Once that's off, set it aside with the bracket and remove the oem line from the upper attachment. Youll lose fluid, But not a lot. Next install the ECS line to the top point loose, orient it so it swoops the way it will be mounted and lock it down. Then attach the slave with bracket, again, loose. Orient the slave the way it will be mounted and lock it down. Here's the important part... top off master with fluid then, holding the slave so the sS line attachment is the highest point, compress the slave rod by hand multiple times. You'll hear air rush up the line and fill with fluid as the rod slides back out. Tilt the slave around and keep compressing the rod...you'll feel the resistance build until it maxes out and there's no change.

Install the slave making sure rod meets the fork in Trans and then lock that down. At this point I had a good pedal but you will still bleed with your preferred method. Since I was also doing brakes. I left the clutch line alone as I did it last.

BRAKES: I 120% recommend the motive bleeder with European attachment. It was $45 from Amazon prime. You install it to the cap of the master, pressure test without new fluid to 15psi...no leaks? Awesome release pressure and add 2 quarts of fluid. I used valvoline synthetic dot 4/3. After filling pump 15psi and bleed RR caliper...fluid and air will rush out...keep it flowing until it's clear then seal it off. Then do LR, RF and LF the same. Inbetween youll need to pump the cylinder up to 15psi a few times, but it's not a sudden thing...whole process is relaxed. I had 1, yes 1 drop of fluid fall to the ground. Seeing the old nasty fluid come out is satisfying haha. After the brakes are all done, check its at 15psi and bleed slave. Once it runs clear, lock it down. You're done!!! Test your pedal, lower your car and fire her up...test brakes. Don't let it roll off the ramps into your engine stand.

I need a few more parts for the oil pressure gauge, but should have it sorted soon.

[PITT M3 RR]

Pic

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Hh

[PITT M3 RR]

Off day yesterday, picked up a set of 13-14 mustang hood louvers and went at it. I made the first cut saying to myself...its fine, Ill just find another hood, BUT...it actually turned out.

Heres the full details https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-hood-Vol-2017

Below are a few photos. These will alleviate heat under there...after backing the car into the garage and shutting if off they were already releasing alot. I am hoping with the low pressure zone created by the middle hump, tons will be extracted in hot temps.

[JobMan]

Hi PITT M3 RR
I'm from thailand and already swap s54 on my car (e36coupe) and I need some help from you. ^^''

- How to cancel engine rev limit ( my s54 cut at 6,500 all condition T_T) ==> I read many post from all s54 swap project and know that I must use VSS (vehicle speed signal) from E36 (I used from cluster meter ) connect to pin #22 from X60004 plug.===> dont'n work!!! My s54 still cut at 6500 rpm ( stop or ride was same).
So. I need to know where can I use speedsensor signal to connect X60004 for run the full rev of S54. especially from your s54 swap project.
- What the best diff ratio for S54 6M/T for daily used and quater mile some time. (now I use 3.15 ltd from e36M3)

Thank you verymuch my bimmer friend ! ^^

Job.20170318_145708-01-01.jpg

[PITT M3 RR]

Job Pm'd

Hood is done, car got a full detail. I'm back to work for a while, once I'm off again, Ill get into INPA and monitor some temps with them open vs closed and report back. Still need my electric fan, pss9 and oil pressure gauge. I ordered 24" SS 1/8 NPT braided line so move the oil sensor away from the motor / vibration. I read they don't like being directly mounted very much.

[M52 POWER!]

Super cool and doesn't look ricey at all. I think your car would look epic with white tire letters (the first pic with soap suds made me think of it ha) but that's just me :p

[PITT M3 RR]

Super cool and doesn't look ricey at all. I think your car would look epic with white tire letters (the first pic with soap suds made me think of it ha) but that's just me :p

Thanks and I thought the same thing too, I may just have to do it.

You can see in the photo the trunk and wing have a newer paint job vs the rest of the car. The front bumper was decently matched till the car decided to dive into my engine stand. I hope when I get the front parts and lower passenger door sprayed it blends a little better.


Went out for a drive last night everything is running will. At 400 miles on the bearings and stuff without any issues. I am going to reach 1200 and maybe send in one of those blackstone report things to see what they say.

As for what is left.

-Oil pressure gauge
-Spal 2K+ CFM fan / custom shround
-pss9s
-M3 FCABs
-Solid steering giubo
-Go into tune and drop revlimit to 8000rpm again. 8200 is cool, but I don't feel its worth the risk on the stock head. The cars faster than anything I have owned already, the factory rev limit will keep me happy I am sure.

Not necessary, but I what I want to do is go under the dash and make 3 terminal boards one for constant power and one for switched power and one for ground. I think I mentioned this earlier, but I have the terminals now so should get that started when I have time. This will allow for ease of gauges, add ons etc.

[M52 POWER!]

Thanks and I thought the same thing too, I may just have to do it.

You can see in the photo the trunk and wing have a newer paint job vs the rest of the car. The front bumper was decently matched till the car decided to dive into my engine stand. I hope when I get the front parts and lower passenger door sprayed it blends a little better.


Went out for a drive last night everything is running will. At 400 miles on the bearings and stuff without any issues. I am going to reach 1200 and maybe send in one of those blackstone report things to see what they say.

As for what is left.

-Oil pressure gauge
-Spal 2K+ CFM fan / custom shround
-pss9s
-M3 FCABs
-Solid steering giubo
-Go into tune and drop revlimit to 8000rpm again. 8200 is cool, but I don't feel its worth the risk on the stock head. The cars faster than anything I have owned already, the factory rev limit will keep me happy I am sure.

Not necessary, but I what I want to do is go under the dash and make 3 terminal boards one for constant power and one for switched power and one for ground. I think I mentioned this earlier, but I have the terminals now so should get that started when I have time. This will allow for ease of gauges, add ons etc.

Just an FYI but...be careful with the solid steering guibo, in an accident it's made to rip/fold there and with it solid it can push the steering column into your face... I'm going to put a new OEM one on.

[bimerok]

Rubber isolator on steering shaft is not made to prevent shaft from being integrated with the driver's face in case of an accident. Its purpose is to isolate the vibrations going up the wheel.

What protects shaft from being a face implant is the crumble zone that is mid shaft.

[PITT M3 RR]

Ok so the crumple zone is elsewhere and the upside is responsive steering feel. What's the downside then on a car like this? Fun, good weather only type deal..

i have the part at my house from AKG and am tempted to just toss it in and go and report my findings.

[bimerok]

Honestly I doubt you'll feel a drastic change (if any) in steering feel or response unless your current ruber is held by last thread (highly unlikely). When I changed my steering shaft for LS swap that just has 2 solid U-Joints, I couldn't feel any difference between OEM and new one. Not on the street, not on the track.

Just a marketing thing in my opinion, same as a strut bar helping handling...

You can throw it on if you have the part, just don't think you'll see any difference, plus it is always PITA to get the shaft on the same teeth so the wheel remains in straigh pisition.

[PITT M3 RR]

I'll toss it on then since I have it. My original was 165K and shredded. I replaced it on the spot with a unit I had laying around with -107K. It was definitely in better shape but still used. I think this and New M FCAB will help a lot.

anyone use poly / solid FCAB?

[TH3 Shifty]

you dont want solid.. reserve that for track only.. it puts more stress on the mounts and floor chasis.. i would just replace with rubber.. the poly squeek too damn much, i pulled mine out, that and Rear control arm bushings too...