did you have to chop that aluminum MAF housing a lot?
98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
S54 swap CSL
No the housing is just as it came, unmodified. Only trimmingnwas to the silicone boots.
New parts are all in. Got the spacing plate cleaned up, flywheel mounted w new bolts and a decent amount of thread locker. 40lbs then 80lbs.
are those E36 hoses?
i see you got Turners new shifter mount, let me know how that feels
98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
S54 swap CSL
Yea E36 hoses, I kept my old cooling components. I’ll just have to trim the lower one. Nice quality and super cheap from eBay. Same company that made the one for the intake.
The TMS bushing is awesome. I got the trans in before work and tested it, I love it.
First vid no bushing. It the boot wasn’t attached to then frame hole, the whole assembly would have just hung like a wet noodle. Tons of slop.
2nd, oem w at least 165K take that for what it is. Still a decent amount of movement and now I can say, it is in fact dulling movement.
3rd TMS, great figment but required me to get a 2x4 and wedge myself against the ground to get it to pop in...and I’m not a weak person. It’s not going anywhere that’s forsure haha
Vids are neutral, reverse, 1-5, neutral. Last one (TMS) I did it two times Impression on stands, Feels sharp, recommended.
Cutch went on as smooth as expected. I have values from 15lbs to 42lbs for the PP to flywheel bolts. I used 25 with blue loctite. My little dog confirmed it was all good haha. im off tomorrow so I’ll be wrapping it all up and starting. I’m so confident that I’m putting it 100% back together ha ha hopefully that’s the right move.
new clutch fork, you can see old was well worn at the contact point with the slave. My rally road stainless steel pivot ball looks good still. Cleaned it all as best I could. TOB was new with the clutch about 3.5K miles ago.
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Last edited by PITT M3 RR; 04-04-2018 at 05:00 PM.
yeah thats a good deal stiffer... looks awesome, might have to get one myself while the car is on the blocks and the exhaust is till out..
98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
S54 swap CSL
Success! Car idled for 55minutes, no oil leak in back, bone dry. Finally. So after, I just putting the car back together for the most part . I’ll drive it today to double check and after I’m going to do the front seal and the rad hoses.
the new slave went on well, I bled it like a boss so no issues there. Clutch feels great with the new fork. Greased the ssk again, and noticed play between the top of the shifter and bottom. I though this rotation was my condor knob a first so I notched the shifter where the Allen bolts fall but it still rotated. Then I drilled two perpendicular offset holes through the shifter rod assembly and passed aluminum rod through. Flared the outer edges and now there’s no play. I guess rogue copied Bmw design of a 2 piece injection adhesive filled shifter. Maybe to kill vibration? No sure but I hated that movement.
Last edited by PITT M3 RR; 04-06-2018 at 10:29 AM.
awesome, glad you found the culprit of the leak...
im 99% done with my exaust fabrication.. i need about another 2hrs..
98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
S54 swap CSL
Sweet! Good job!
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Excellent! Hard work but totally worth finding and fixing that leak.
Good snag on that cluster.
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Small update.
Sold E46M, installed the rad in the swap car.
Mishimotor LG Core Z3M, EBay silicone hoses. I had a lower temp switch in but the pos eBay sensor was faulty. I just reused the oem 328 sensor.
Sad to hear the M3 go away. Are the funds received going towards another car?
Also the hoses and engine bay look very clean. Did you do a deep clean in there?
I didn’t clean it all at once, but as stuff goes in, it’s pretty fresh. Im going to add the AC and drive this a bit. I’m thinking of a 16/17 vette Grand sport. They’re so nice
That's sacrilege. Nah, the new vette's are really nice. I see a couple running around the Castle Shannon area. I'd be looking at the E63 M6 if I had the chance, though I heard the maintenance costs are astronomical.
I'm surprised to see you keep the a/c in this car. I'm thinking of deleting mine, since I only drive it on the weekends anymore.
Man I’ve been driving without ac and it is NOT worth it. I want some level of comfort especially since the E46 is gone. I’ve been looking for something reasonable to replace the E46 as it’s down to vette or F8X M3/4.
Took the red car out yesterday, 80’s and water temps were MUCH more stable w the new rad. I lost a lot of temp fluctuations I had before. I’m very pleased.
Next
- AC
- VAC gauge
- headers
Sad to hear the news of you selling this beauty. Good luck with the sale.
But I wanted to ask you about your front indicators and tail lights. I was going to get the clear sets but when I saw the clear front indicators, they almost look to clear that it doesn't really match every thing else. I saw you had the lightly smoked tail lights and front indicators and was wondering if they looked good? The lightly smoked ones look better on the computer screen, but was wondering what they looked like in person. They don't look too ricey of douchebaggy do they? Also, what brand are they and were did you order them from?
Hey so those cosmetic things were on there when I got the car! Fronts appear just clear, back are slightly smoked. You can come check them out if you want to, no problem.
I know, I've been wanting to come up and check out that s54 in person since spring. The car has been out of inspection since June, so I've been worried about driving it long distances. I've just been driving around town trying to get better at manual driving, but haven't gotten pulled over yet. Maybe we'll meet soon this fall sometime.
Are you going to be putting anymore money into the car with it being up for sale?
Sure man let me know.
And yes, I’m treating the car as my own during the process. I have new plugs going in soon w thenAC and vacuum gauge
New fuel filter installed. That’s all haha
What’s the latest with this? You end up selling?
991 | 964 | G55 | D90 | LX570 |
Past: SC'd e34 540/6, CSL'd E46 M3, E36 M3/4/5, E36 M3 turbo, E36 M3, 335D, Porsche 951, 80 Series LC, Kleeman E55 Wagon, LX470, 970 Panamera TT, E92 M3
Oh man, a lot of stuff actually. I still own it. About 3 months ago I got a random check engine light for a fuel system diagnosis that became a steadily reoccurring issue. Along with that I was having some idle drop issues when coming to a stop and clutching.
Due to this I checked
- Fuel pressure
- smoke leak tested intake track
- HFM remover and cleaned
- confirmed O2 sensors correctly in order
All of those were perfect. My next suspicion was the Kassel DME. Since day one it’s given me issues. The timing issues, the main relay voltage code and the knock mapping...while looking into this, I noticed my fuel trims were locked outside of DME adjustments. Finally, I decided to use my spare HP DME and make a perfect swap DME with 100% stock mapping. Once that was made, I installed it and hooked up inpa. This time the car would barely idle and after a short while, I got the fuel system diagnosis code again. Still across both banks, BUT, I could now see my STFTs were bad. The car was pulling out the max fuel adjustment going well over the CEL trigger threshold. In addition to this, I got “Exhaust Vanos outlet actual value to high” code.
Wanting to handle one at a time, I thought about the fuel diagnosis issue and the Fuel trims. INPA said it was at idle and that’s when the car was giving me issues and dying. Since I already checked a lot of the systems, I looked into the intake. The aluminum housing I was using was 3.5” OUTER diameter...stock is 3.5” INNER diameter. With the thickness of the housing into account there was about 1/4 difference around the whole housing. I remade the intake with the stock HFM housing and some other changes and that eliminated the STFT issue, idle issue and check engine light! The car was running well, I thought anyway. I was still getting the Vanos code. I thought it was a phantom code but after erasing, it returned each time.
I then read all about this code. It could be CPS, vanos valve body or solenoid pack. Not wanting to waste money, I removed and cleaned the valve body...definitely needed it BUT that did not fix the issue. After going back and forth on a besian solenoid I decided to do the modification myself. Took it back off and spruced up all the solder joints, again, looked like it needed it but the code remained....after more reading, I learned my schwaben scanner can see live vanos values. While watching them, I saw the exhaust side value in degrees tipping 8° every few seconds. This is supposed to be 0° And Intake is supposed to be 60°. Since the range is + / - 8° I was getting the code each time the exhaust value went over!
Pinpointing the issue, I borrowed the timing tools from my buddy Shifty and opened the motor up...the motor that Kassel “modified” for me. Yea right haha...exhaust cam timing was off and THE VANOS HELICAL GEARS WERE FLIPPED. He had the intake on the exhaust side and vise versa. Unbelievable to say the least. ANYWAY, I made it right, timed it, closed it up and fired her up. Car ran the best it ever has. So much so, I debated removing the ad haha. Power band was more broad, way more smooth and linear. This car is an absolute animal.
A month or so went by without issue and just last week the car got the custom headers I made and a tune from my buddy! All in all, pulls like a train and everything worked out!
Last edited by PITT M3 RR; 07-28-2019 at 07:12 PM.
Few more
fresh sealed solenoid / valve body
drilled disk
cam bolts
proper spline engagemen
new intake
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