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Thread: S54 ---> Hellrot E36 328I

  1. #276
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    S54/E36,18 Sierra Denali
    Quote Originally Posted by M52 POWER! View Post
    Pitt, FYI the 330 ZHP rack has superior ratio and feel than the Z3 rack. I got mine from the rack doctor for a great price... http://shop.rackdoctor.net/2002-2005...892-712ZHP.htm

    Also I use Toyota FIPG for sealing the oil pan in just the corners, the stuff works great and never flakes off.
    Just got off the phone with rackdoctor, very informative! I'm think Im going to order the ZHP rack per his recommendation and yours. I have 2 racks to send back so he said I can get a core of $65 total for my E36 racks. I'm going to think about it more though...the regular E36 rack is much cheaper, on special and gets me a full $150 core for mine. Also a rebuilt unit should be worlds better than my old 165K POS.

    Did you honestly feel a difference? He recommended I stay with a rubber coupling and go harder on my FCABs...even harder than new M3 ones!

    EDIT the compromise was a regular E46 325 rack he said. I was told it was a quicker ratio, but feels more "comfort" vs performance...and the top of the line is the Z3 non M rack which he said is almost gokart like.
    Last edited by PITT M3 RR; 05-11-2017 at 02:06 PM.

  2. #277
    Join Date
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    Northern CA
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    1998 M3/4/5
    Quote Originally Posted by PITT M3 RR View Post
    Just got off the phone with rackdoctor, very informative! I'm think Im going to order the ZHP rack per his recommendation and yours. I have 2 racks to send back so he said I can get a core of $65 total for my E36 racks. I'm going to think about it more though...the regular E36 rack is much cheaper, on special and gets me a full $150 core for mine. Also a rebuilt unit should be worlds better than my old 165K POS.

    Did you honestly feel a difference? He recommended I stay with a rubber coupling and go harder on my FCABs...even harder than new M3 ones!

    EDIT the compromise was a regular E46 325 rack he said. I was told it was a quicker ratio, but feels more "comfort" vs performance...and the top of the line is the Z3 non M rack which he said is almost gokart like.
    I did the ZHP rack from them a few years ago, am very happy with it.
    S54 swap DME flashing - $100
    S54 swap CAN interface board (for proper A/C & check engine light) - $275
    e36 SAP sim/secondary air pump simulator:
    $75 - standard or $170 - plug & play
    e36 post-cat O2 sims: $115 shipped, plug & play

  3. #278
    Join Date
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    S54/E36,18 Sierra Denali
    WELL, 1.9L steering rack from a 2000 Z3 is on the way. I paid $139 with high mileage, but the seal kit is $56 bucks and there's a real good DIY IF necessary. Pretty excited about that. It's $504ish from rack doctor and then a $150 core return so technically IF I went with a rebuilt unit from him, I saved $11 dollars buying the high mileage unit as a core haha.
    Once is on, I'm going to explore the options for An fitting and PTFE lines in place of the OEM stuff...I want to eliminate all those leaks.


    I finally sold the M52 and some other parts including the "bad" S54 OFH for a total of $660 so that is good. The new OFH went on perfect and the Merlin motor sports M12x1.5 spacer with 1/8npt port works great. I also received the VDO M12 300 degree temp sensor for oil...should make for a clean install once it's in there. Cars running again so that's nice for peace of mind.

    Also, I got 5.5" 550lb hyperco 60mm springs for the front and ground control camber plates. I'll add those to the pss9s and beable to squeeze 255's under there squared up.


    Last east piece is the M3 FCABs arrived. After all this, an alignment and suspension tuning I should be set.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #279
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
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    Rogers AR
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    1995 BMW M3
    are you using a Z3M oil cooler or an aftermarket one? Curious to see how you ran your lines

  5. #280
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    It's an aftermarket unit from derale. 13x6x2.5
    I believe. Dimensionally it works out to just slightly more volume than the S54 OEM cooler. I ran the lines around the front support so if I even need to pull it, I can leave the cooler attached. I think there's a few pics a few pages back. I can take more if you need.

  6. #281
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    Busy day, but have to take advantage of my off time.

    Today I installed the VDO temp sensor, M3 FCAB's, Z3 steering rack, M3 rubber steering Guibo and also discovered that my lower steering shaft was seized. The upper u joint allowed for almost no movement on one of the axis. I was going to ignore it until winter, but it was bugging me and I didn't want it to screw with the feeling of the new rack. I pulled the steering shaft and submerged it in some oil I had from a change I did on my GFs car. I worked the joint until it freed up. I rinced and repeated this multiple times and it actually worked. It's free moving and smooth all around now...covered it in grease and threw it back in.

    With that out of the way, I knocked out the rest of the stuff mentioned up top. I was very close to just dropping the subframe and doing the oil pan gasket real quick, but I can handle that later. I didn't want to go deeper before completing the steering and suspension. It's ass backwards but I'm ocd or something. Anyway, got a gallon of valvoline synthetic ATF and filled the system. I bought more because the rack is coming out for the oil pan and I figured this would be a "flush".

    The car is not aligned, but I went for a ride after I finished it all up. It feels a million times better. I know the fcab's and the shaft being free moving helped a lot, but the "quickness" of the rack is really fun. I am very pleased with the outcome. I got a killer deal at $94 for the rack + shipping. It was on a 1.9L from Florida and it shows.'rust free,'unabused. The fluid that came out was cherry red and didn't appear old. Tomorrow I am doing he linear pss9 conversion and will make some custom PS lines.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Pic
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by PITT M3 RR; 05-24-2017 at 12:54 AM.

  7. #282
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    Coming together, feels great on the road.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Also ordered a condor shift knob...any wait to finally have a decent shifter.
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  8. #283
    Join Date
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    1995 BMW M3
    when you're ready to part ways with the car (not any time soon) I would love to own it....it's gorgeous! looks allot like my sedan but so much cleaner and cooler

    Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk

  9. #284
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    335ti 360ti x5-6.0tt

  10. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by lbennyboobool View Post
    when you're ready to part ways with the car (not any time soon) I would love to own it....it's gorgeous! looks allot like my sedan but so much cleaner and cooler

    Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
    thanks man, I'll let you know haha. There's absolutely no way to quantify the man hours in..but parts cost haha thatsbpossibl. I'm looking to upgrade my home soon to something with a huge shop or garage...is sell the car for that, but catch is, the car is the reason I want the garages haha

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Bluebimma View Post
    Using an e34 steering coupler works nicely as well to replace a ragjoint and only 22$ for uro or mtc, 80 for OEM.
    I read that too, but after fixing all that stuff the car feels all new. I think that's a part where the rubber is needed. It's an odd angle and not worth the risk of damaging parts

  11. #286
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    Quote Originally Posted by PITT M3 RR View Post

    - - - Updated - - -



    I read that too, but after fixing all that stuff the car feels all new. I think that's a part where the rubber is needed. It's an odd angle and not worth the risk of damaging parts
    Not exactly sure what you mean? A ragjoint is just another form of ujoint. Putting a actual ujoint there removed the possibility of becoming soft and irresponsive. It also allows for a further better angle articulation between the Column and the steering rack.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  12. #287
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    I hear ya, but I don't know if the solid flex point itself will stress the pinion seals more than a rubber disk. After murdering my 328 rack in 1 drive, I'm stick with the rubber myself. Shitty job dropping all that. And I need to do it for the oil pan gasket soon dammit.'

  13. #288
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    Quote Originally Posted by PITT M3 RR View Post
    I hear ya, but I don't know if the solid flex point itself will stress the pinion seals more than a rubber disk. After murdering my 328 rack in 1 drive, I'm stick with the rubber myself. Shitty job dropping all that. And I need to do it for the oil pan gasket soon dammit.'
    It's not a solid joint, it's a U joint. Full articulation and the absolute best interface to have between the steering column and rack. It was OE on the E34. I have a Z3 non-M rack, E34 U joint with Bimmerworld TrackCAB's and my steering is truly remarkable. Because race car though.
    Dave
    '15 Pure White VW Touareg TDI - The M hauler
    ///'95 Avus M3 S54B32 -Stripped, caged @ 2681#
    ///'90 Calypso 325ic (70K miles)
    ///'72 Chamonix 2002 (Restoration project)
    ///'87 Alpine 535is

  14. #289
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    Quote Originally Posted by PITT M3 RR View Post
    thanks man, I'll let you know haha. There's absolutely no way to quantify the man hours in..but parts cost haha thatsbpossibl. I'm looking to upgrade my home soon to something with a huge shop or garage...is sell the car for that, but catch is, the car is the reason I want the garages haha
    I completely understand! I want a shop myself, nothing crazy just a small shop with a lift to be able to work on my cars and more then just one at a time. To be able to afford that I would need to sell some cars and then wouldn't need the shop and would be fine with just the garage. It's a fine line so I completely understand. If you do decide to part ways with the car keep me in mind. I know it probably wont be for a while and even then it'll be priceless. Get allot of enjoyment from it before you let her go! You'll regret it either way

  15. #290
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    i know i asked before but i cant remember

    for the S52 coolant temp sensor for the gauge, where are you placing it? in the S54 coolant temp location? do we keep the S54 coolant temp sensor?

    also im using an aftermarket coolant temp gauge, where are you tapping in for switched power? last time i used the #16 wire on the round diagnostic plug. is there another source we can use? im using the Z3M harness and the swap harness from Andrew who also supplied round connector but obviously the wires are different now.
    98 Estoril ///M3 4/5
    S54 swap

  16. #291
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    S54/E36,18 Sierra Denali
    Hey, I have the Z3M cluster so my S54 sensor is functional in its original location. When I had the 328i e36 cluster in there, it was functional using the techna coolant pipe adapter and E36 sensor placed there. I think* you can remove your S54 temp sensor and install the E36 one right where it was. Gpeterson is the man for that question, but I also know its been answered at the beginning of this thread.

    For your gauges. Theres a thick red and a thick green wire coming off the ignition terminal. Red is hot all the time, green is hot in run and start. You can tap there, or follow them further back and get in. This is why I want to hit those to a mount a terminal block...that way I can have a dedicated source for + and switched +. .Maybe over winter if ever haha.
    Last edited by PITT M3 RR; 06-13-2017 at 01:08 PM.

  17. #292
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    So just to keep with the updates, I installed a condor shorter delrin shift knob.. I'm a idiot and ordered the 6mt overlay so I'll either get another or use the knob on my E46. Also added 12mm spacers to the rear and it really filled the fender out. Looks great. I am no longer going to do a linear conversion on the PSS9s. I am going to sell the kit and just get the GC plates that work on the PSS9 with their springs as intended.
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  18. #293
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    rears look boss.. spacers help so much to make the car...
    98 Estoril ///M3 4/5
    S54 swap

  19. #294
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    Had a few off days so I decided to just go ahead and do the linear conversion. Took my time and everything went smooth. With the collars all the way up, the car sits high enough that I want to low I alittle more and the distance to the tire is close to 10-12mm now from 1 or 2 before.

    Also, back in the beginning of the build, I mentioned that I ordered ebay headers, but got hosed by the seller. Anyway, the tune I am running is meant for headers. I'm guessing just the standard longer tube that most replicate...so I decided to make my own. At the moment I have finished up the jig only. I am not going to rush it, I want to look into sourcing the proper materials an tools. All in all looks good.

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    Last edited by PITT M3 RR; 07-09-2017 at 03:33 AM.

  20. #295
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    for your jig, are you also going to place a mock motor mount in the way so you know how much room you have to go over it?
    98 Estoril ///M3 4/5
    S54 swap

  21. #296
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    Yes I am, I have an idea to make it all a few parts to help with the fabrication process. Ill keep it documented for sure. I freed up my rear camber bolts today, set them to full negative and then dialed toe to zero and went for a drive. I forgot how fast the car is. So much fun.

  22. #297
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    thats awesome... cool project... im still waiting to drop my motor in... Status Gruppe headers are STILL not here from the disaster of a group buy.. so im working on other things like putting cats into the stock section 1 to make my own euro cat section.
    98 Estoril ///M3 4/5
    S54 swap

  23. #298
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    Quote Originally Posted by TH3 Shifty View Post
    thats awesome... cool project... im still waiting to drop my motor in... Status Gruppe headers are STILL not here from the disaster of a group buy.. so im working on other things like putting cats into the stock section 1 to make my own euro cat section.
    Are you getting 200 cell cats? If so where from? Eastern catalytic is a place I've used in the past. Maybe give them a call.

    is the SG thing bad? What happened

  24. #299
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    group buy started in late february... they claim the place that actually makes the headers, lost welders... they didnt find that out till may... then in june claimed they were having the headers sent to them and they will weld them... but wont be polishing them.. so.... thats the last update..

    i got 200 cell bullet style metalic core cats in 2.5", the company is MBS
    98 Estoril ///M3 4/5
    S54 swap

  25. #300
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    Quote Originally Posted by TH3 Shifty View Post
    group buy started in late february... they claim the place that actually makes the headers, lost welders... they didnt find that out till may... then in june claimed they were having the headers sent to them and they will weld them... but wont be polishing them.. so.... thats the last update..

    i got 200 cell bullet style metalic core cats in 2.5", the company is MBS
    Ah man that sucks. grab a refund and get the AHR haha do you have a link to the cats ? I may need some soon!

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