Crankcase Vents - Catch Cans

[pbonsalb]

Fits OBDII as well yet your hood might not be happy about it

I have the part and tried it. I drive with a hood on my car and it wont clear.

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Whats the underside of that look like? I know the inside of the valve cover is not flat...

Cam cover on that side. Low profile ribbing.

[whoshaunq]

The one closest to the rad is actually inside the Ccv chamber It was already broke open and I closed it back up after I put the -12an fitting in. The one closest to the firewall, I had to remove some of the ribs on the inside so I could fit the nut. They ribs break out fairly easy with pliers. The intake cam cover pretty much acts as baffle so no actual oil comes out. Littttttle but of oil residue on the under side of the hood. Still a work in process but so far so good. I think the sap pump will be a nice touch.

[jakermac]

If you leave those valve cover fittings vented to atmo, the SAP pump will do absolutely nothing for you.

[whoshaunq]

If you leave those valve cover fittings vented to atmo, the SAP pump will do absolutely nothing for you.

How do you figure? I'm not trying to make my Crank case full vacuum, I just don't want any CC pressure AT ALL. even with the vents open the sap would still be pulling out pressure.

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Even if the sap is pulling air thru those vents it'll still be doing its job.

[bry195]

The only reason I can see needing the two fittings on top is if you have blowby at idle. You might be able to minimze pressure if you do not run the SAP at idle. The sap is not really designed for continuous duty so I advize against full time sap. The SAP can evacuate everything from the original nipple. If you are working on the theory of blowby at idle then you will need to filter the air being pulled into the motor which will probably minimize the value of having them in the first place.

Just thoughts. You might be on a different track.

[whoshaunq]

The only reason I can see needing the two fittings on top is if you have blowby at idle. You might be able to minimze pressure if you do not run the SAP at idle. The sap is not really designed for continuous duty so I advize against full time sap. The SAP can evacuate everything from the original nipple. If you are working on the theory of blowby at idle then you will need to filter the air being pulled into the motor which will probably minimize the value of having them in the first place.

Just thoughts. You might be on a different track.

thus the reason for the hobbs switch.

[bry195]

thus the reason for the hobbs switch.

I got it and suspected you did. My turbo did leak at idle so my interest is in helping you. I resolved the problem by replacing the turbo but if you work something out I'd love to hear what you come up with and continue to explore the ideas.

[Jaze]

Has anyone considered using the 2 big bolts on the vanos solenoid plate? That is the crank case, and it would be as easy as getting a metric to AN adapter if it would work...I don't see why not.

[busterhax]

Has anyone considered using the 2 big bolts on the vanos solenoid plate? That is the crank case, and it would be as easy as getting a metric to AN adapter if it would work...I don't see why not.

I'd be worried about too much oil getting in there. I feel like most of these setups are overkill. There are plenty of high hp race cars with low tech solutions that work fine.

[e36luve]

I am also using the SAP to pull vacuum on the crankcase with a 2psi switch. Prior to this I had turbo oil drain issues and I was getting oil in the intercooler piping.
I have a question for the other guys using this ccv setup, when you roll into boost at night with the headlights on do they dim momentarily when the pump kicks in?
When I had my car tuned at Technica they said they couldn't control the timing up top as well as they wanted. They recommend fresh coils and getting a higher amp alternator to keep up with the fuel pump and ignition. When it was tuned the SAP pump was unplugged but I'm worried with it plugged in that it may cause more of a problem.
has anyone had the need to upgrade their alternator along with going turbo? I'm only on a basic stage2 TRM fuel system.

[bry195]

I am also using the SAP to pull vacuum on the crankcase with a 2psi switch. Prior to this I had turbo oil drain issues and I was getting oil in the intercooler piping. I have a question for the other guys using this ccv setup, when you roll into boost at night with the headlights on do they dim momentarily when the pump kicks in? When I had my car tuned at Technica they said they couldn't control the timing up top as well as they wanted. They recommend fresh coils and getting a higher amp alternator to keep up with the fuel pump and ignition. When it was tuned the SAP pump was unplugged but I'm worried with it plugged in that it may cause more of a problem. has anyone had the need to upgrade their alternator along with going turbo? I'm only on a basic stage2 TRM fuel system.

I had a 40 amp relay driving the SAP and it welded closed after running for 15 minutes straight. My point is that I believe the SAP pulls pretty close to 40 amps. You probably have an 80 amp alternator? The 140 amp works fine. I never ran it when I had the 80 amp on.

[e36luve]

I had a 40 amp relay driving the SAP and it welded closed after running for 15 minutes straight. My point is that I believe the SAP pulls pretty close to 40 amps. You probably have an 80 amp alternator? The 140 amp works fine. I never ran it when I had the 80 amp on.

Sounds like I should just upgrade to the 140 amp either way

[Willmartens]

Very good info on here and it has helped me a lot! The question I have is, what are you guys doing with the pcv hole in your manifold? Are you still leaving the pcv attached, and just leaving the vc breather hose disconnected from it (going to a catch can) How do you plug the hole if you get rid of the pcv?

[Willmartens]

I just have a hose going from the stock obd1 valve cover to a 2 inch round breather filter. I never get any oil in mine.

Did you just block the pcv hole in the manifold?

[someguy2800]

Has anyone considered using the 2 big bolts on the vanos solenoid plate? That is the crank case, and it would be as easy as getting a metric to AN adapter if it would work...I don't see why not.

Someone on here tried it a couple years ago and there was way to much oil coming off the chains. The stock location is ideal because of the oil shield on the intake cam. Its really the only place in the motor that doesn't have oil flinging at it.

[Nutzy]

Someone on here tried it a couple years ago and there was way to much oil coming off the chains. The stock location is ideal because of the oil shield on the intake cam. Its really the only place in the motor that doesn't have oil flinging at it.

Exactly. So put your plastic shields on the intake cam peeps!

I have previously zipped up the top of the motor and then seen the plastic shield sitting on the shelf....damn! Valve cover off again. :-/

[jakermac]

I have previously zipped up the top of the motor and then seen the plastic shield sitting on the shelf....damn! Valve cover off again. :-/

Ditto!!

[Pauchuk]

On a turbocharged engine, is it better to vent crankcase before turbocharger inlet (through oil catch tank) or can it just be fitted in catch tank, with no inlet to turbocharger (vacum)?

[rajicase]

Ditto!!

Twice........ >.>

[NY98M3]

I mean I'm pretty sure I had it installed correctly. The only reason I found out it was the cause of my oil burning issue/smoke out the exhaust, blowing my turbo seals, etc.... I had taken the turbo off, used my stock maf, injectors, and a n/a tuned ecu, for inspection purposes while it was n/a and I was putting miles on it I started getting smoke out my exhaust and oil residue out my ccv's. The exhaust was actually pressurizing the CC. Luckily I caught it while it wasn't boosted. I probably would have parted it. I have two extra sap pumps I'm ready to hook one up!

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The ones on top of my valve cover just vent to atmosphere. I'll run the factory Ccv port to the SAP.

Im still working on this...are those o-ring'd connections on the other side or is there a nut on there?

[dburt86]

With most of the LS stuff, one valve cover will be a "fresh air intake" and the other side will be the suction side, effectively pulling across the entire motor. The setup about with SAP going to the factory CCV port would just be pulling fresh air from the AN fitting next to it.

[jakermac]

No o-rings on mine. Just teflon washers on either side of the VC and a nut on the inside. I added a bit of Permatex Ultra Grey for a slightly better seal. But I'm having a hard time keeping them tight. Gonna add a bit of Loctite this time. No boost on my setup though.

[whoshaunq]

I thought of this actually and may cap off the one closest to the CCv. I plan on actually going to a magnesium valve cover so I might put the vents in the back of the valve cover and make my own baffle. My pump works great right now, but my valve cover keeps leaking oil.

With most of the LS stuff, one valve cover will be a "fresh air intake" and the other side will be the suction side, effectively pulling across the entire motor. The setup about with SAP going to the factory CCV port would just be pulling fresh air from the AN fitting next to it.

[NY98M3]

So I have several spare valve covers around that Im using for testing. The OBDII cover seems to have more room under it for the teflon washer and the nut. I tried this style last night by working on the rear vent and was able to clear out some of the checkerboard grating on the underside of the cover. The -10AN teflon washer and nut fit securely in between the grating. I used some of my kids playdough to check the spacing from the VC to the Intake cam splash guard, there is about a 1/2" space there.



I also tried the OBDI cover like the pic below. Even on the high point on the VC like in the pic, it didn't leave as much room as the OBDII cover. I was able to do some measuring with the playdough and it leaves about 1/8" to 3/16 of a space to the splash guard.

[jjc034]

I had fabricated an air/oil separator type catch can for my car a few years back. Most of what ends up in the catch cans is water vapour which condenses in the catch can. Routing the liquid that is in the catch can back to the oil pan is not a good idea as it is highly acidic. I had a drain on the bottom of my catch can that I ended up having to drain on a regular basis. I eventually said screw it and pulled the catch can out and now I just run a 1" ID hose from the modified OBD2 valve cover down to the stock fuel filter location under the car. I park in the same spot everyday and have never had oil drip onto the floor from the hose. I do smell the blow by smell occasionally when stopped at a light and the wind catches it. That's my only complaint really.

Sent from my GTX3582R

When you say modified valve cover do you mean that you rounded the squared edges at the bottom of the CCV port to fit the 1" tube?

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