The one closest to the rad is actually inside the Ccv chamber It was already broke open and I closed it back up after I put the -12an fitting in. The one closest to the firewall, I had to remove some of the ribs on the inside so I could fit the nut. They ribs break out fairly easy with pliers. The intake cam cover pretty much acts as baffle so no actual oil comes out. Littttttle but of oil residue on the under side of the hood. Still a work in process but so far so good. I think the sap pump will be a nice touch.
Last edited by whoshaunq; 09-07-2016 at 04:04 PM.
How do you figure? I'm not trying to make my Crank case full vacuum, I just don't want any CC pressure AT ALL. even with the vents open the sap would still be pulling out pressure.
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Even if the sap is pulling air thru those vents it'll still be doing its job.
The only reason I can see needing the two fittings on top is if you have blowby at idle. You might be able to minimze pressure if you do not run the SAP at idle. The sap is not really designed for continuous duty so I advize against full time sap. The SAP can evacuate everything from the original nipple. If you are working on the theory of blowby at idle then you will need to filter the air being pulled into the motor which will probably minimize the value of having them in the first place.
Just thoughts. You might be on a different track.
Has anyone considered using the 2 big bolts on the vanos solenoid plate? That is the crank case, and it would be as easy as getting a metric to AN adapter if it would work...I don't see why not.
I am also using the SAP to pull vacuum on the crankcase with a 2psi switch. Prior to this I had turbo oil drain issues and I was getting oil in the intercooler piping.
I have a question for the other guys using this ccv setup, when you roll into boost at night with the headlights on do they dim momentarily when the pump kicks in?
When I had my car tuned at Technica they said they couldn't control the timing up top as well as they wanted. They recommend fresh coils and getting a higher amp alternator to keep up with the fuel pump and ignition. When it was tuned the SAP pump was unplugged but I'm worried with it plugged in that it may cause more of a problem.
has anyone had the need to upgrade their alternator along with going turbo? I'm only on a basic stage2 TRM fuel system.
Last edited by e36luve; 09-15-2016 at 02:07 PM.
Very good info on here and it has helped me a lot! The question I have is, what are you guys doing with the pcv hole in your manifold? Are you still leaving the pcv attached, and just leaving the vc breather hose disconnected from it (going to a catch can) How do you plug the hole if you get rid of the pcv?
On a turbocharged engine, is it better to vent crankcase before turbocharger inlet (through oil catch tank) or can it just be fitted in catch tank, with no inlet to turbocharger (vacum)?
With most of the LS stuff, one valve cover will be a "fresh air intake" and the other side will be the suction side, effectively pulling across the entire motor. The setup about with SAP going to the factory CCV port would just be pulling fresh air from the AN fitting next to it.
328i Sedan Twin s366's, 6.0LS, TH400, MS3 Ultimate
9.20 at 150 on 22psi
Last edited by jakermac; 06-19-2017 at 11:20 PM.
I thought of this actually and may cap off the one closest to the CCv. I plan on actually going to a magnesium valve cover so I might put the vents in the back of the valve cover and make my own baffle. My pump works great right now, but my valve cover keeps leaking oil.
So I have several spare valve covers around that Im using for testing. The OBDII cover seems to have more room under it for the teflon washer and the nut. I tried this style last night by working on the rear vent and was able to clear out some of the checkerboard grating on the underside of the cover. The -10AN teflon washer and nut fit securely in between the grating. I used some of my kids playdough to check the spacing from the VC to the Intake cam splash guard, there is about a 1/2" space there.
I also tried the OBDI cover like the pic below. Even on the high point on the VC like in the pic, it didn't leave as much room as the OBDII cover. I was able to do some measuring with the playdough and it leaves about 1/8" to 3/16 of a space to the splash guard.
Last edited by NY98M3; 06-29-2017 at 11:57 AM.
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