You are correct in reasoning for BOV location. However I am now running a RK tune as soon as it gets to my doorstep. I got tired of waiting on the MS PNP as cool as it will be. I want my car on the road. I have since that picture redesigned my cold side pipe to accommodate the MAF/BOV/ICV.
Oh, missed the quick jack question. I wish I had boughten the quickjack years ago, though, I believe now all the kinks are worked out in the design. I have no leaking at the fittings, only positive things to say. It makes my life so much easier as I do not have the room for max jacks or a true 2 post. Things like exhaust fab and removing tranny for clutch went way easier than using jack stands. I have the car up and down all the time. It was the best $1300 I have spent on anything automotive.
i also went with the 12v pump and run it off my small jump box. I really think the 12v is the way to go for portability sake.
The anxiety of whether this thing is gonna run or not is killing me...2 more days...hopefully
rain was not friendly to me last night or it would be assembled minus tune/inj.,Maf
list as of 7/13
reconnect oil drain (had to extend line 1/4")
splice in 4 wires for wideband/boost gauge
connect bov line from manifold.
install rear wheel studs
install front shock tower reinforcements
fill oil
fill coolant
put battery back in
pull fuel relay turn car over get some oil moving
program wideband/boost gauge
install maf/injectors/tune
pray a bunch
i'm really hoping all my an fittings seal properly...esp the oil feed/drain
Last edited by vr6dubny; 07-13-2017 at 02:08 PM.
mail carrier is here every day at 11:30...except the day my tune is in the truck.
my list is down to:
install injectors/maf/tune
fill oil
fill coolant
my bumper is being resprayed tomorrow so I'm gonna have to just rock the intercooler for tonight...I don't care...I'm driving the thing if it runs.
She lives...kinda. I can't get the coolant to bleed the air out. I tried jacking, I tried removing the bleeder screw, I tried removing the upper pipe on the radiator side. I tried jacking the front up. I'm not sure what my next play is. Maybe I have a bad tstat in there? Secondly my crank case vent is grossly inadequate. So tomorrow I'm going to attempt to remedy these issues. Oh and a valve cover leak...but I'm thinking it may be the crank case vent that is causing part of that as well. i was pushing oil out of the catch can filter. Not a great time.
Anyone have thoughts on bleeding the air?
Or better options than a -10 line to catch can off the stock crank case vent...where can I tap the valve cover? should I plug the small port on the valve cover adapter piece? right now i have it going to atmosphere through a vacuum line.
little sound clip is the best i can do
https://youtu.be/-Hxr8CwuwhY
Last edited by vr6dubny; 07-17-2017 at 10:11 PM.
Make sure you have the heat on MAX setting when running the car to add coolant. For ccv, you can add a 10an fitting to rear of vc. Run it to a catch can or evac kit to exhaust.
Below is a good thread that helped me.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-where-is-best
Part of the issue with researching the ccv system as well as things in general now is the astounding amount of broken picture links on forums due to photobucket
i thank you for the link and help.
I put two 10an ports on the top of the valve cover above the intake cam and vent to atmosphere. Easy. Works perfectly.
Nope!
Raji you got pics of placement of fittings?
so i got a pressure bleeder for coolant, pulled the radiator all the way out, dumped it. Redid the coolant with the pressure bleeder. All seems like it may be looking up there. Then I decided to tackle the valve cover leak which would also give me access to tap the VC for 1/2 npt to 10an fittings to remedy the CCV. Pulled everything apart, cleaned up the valve cover, drilled it, tapped it. I think it turned out pretty well. I just have to go grab some fittings tomorrow, I did have a 1/2 npt to 8an so I at least made sure the tapped holes were good. While the VC was off I figured it was as good of time as any to retorque the head studs. So I tackled that last, it scares me to torque them, I feel like i'm going to strip the head every time I turn the wrench.
I grabbed a couple 1/2npt to 10an straight adapters today. They are not going to allow me enough room to run 90's off them. So i am going to just see what happens with some cloth zip tied over the hole for now. I could screw these in farther into the valve cover but i am trying to keep as much flow going as possible. i am ordering 2x 1/2npt to 10an 90's to go into the valve cover. I will get this thing vented correctly...wish my area had better options on fitting suppliers.
finally got it going, cooling system finally seemed to be cooling. i took a quick trip out to my parents and then back home just to put some miles on it. Things were going super smoothly. Car was running straight, smooth, no issues. Did a couple pulls right before my exit on the highway. Things seemed good until i pulled into my driveway. At exactly 134,000 miles I blew a coolant hose under the intake mani. i figure it must be one of the hoses to the heater core. Going to pull my intake manifold in the morning and take a look. i am getting REALLY good at taking this thing apart and putting it back together. It seems I am doing it every day.
https://youtu.be/nV6ydB8pCc0
https://youtu.be/ptUYSyeqEW8
reporting back rajicase is correct. 2 vents on the top of the valve cover work excellent. No oil all over, seems good.
I did find my massive coolant leak. I forgot to tighten the hose clamp on the hose that goes to the water fitting on the rear of the head. The good news is at least it is not the head gasket. I ordered a new low temp thermostat, 3 new hoses, and a new thermostat housing to see if I can get this thing to start cooling.
I am hoping my main issue is that hose that was loose. We will find out soon.
Keep up the good work! Getting close now!
always trying to make it lighter and faster
^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
instant grams: doktor_b
Looks good. Same as my crankcase vent. I'm debating what to do about a catch can, for now mine are just open 10an fittings on the valve cover like in your pic.
my plan is to use 1/2npt to 10an 90's off the valve cover to straight 10an pressure fit connections with nylon coated hose to a catch can. I would have it installed but 2 fittings vanished...thinking children or got thrown out...atleast it was just a couple fittings. i am doing the catch can setup with all eBay junk...I figure its not under real pressure, its not carrying fuel/oil/coolant. I will do it as cheaply as possible. Catch can itself is a JEGS piece, a little larger than I'd hoped, I think I'm going to try and stick it behind the bumper someplace. It has a petcock in it to drain the fluid so I can get away with mounting it anywhere as long as I can reach the fitting to drain.
I'm glad I finished my build before the this photo bucket fiasco
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Ha photobucket has made finding stuff interesting the last few weeks. Luckily I had most of mine done before there were no good picture links on any forum. It is amazing how many people were using photobucket though.
Back together. Temp is staying where it is suppose to. I put 65 miles on it, mostly highway. Everything seems to be good, i def need to redo my intake, prob work on that tomorrow night. I also need to go through and make sure all my bolts are still tight. As well as align my headlights.
How do you guys go about upping boost? Psi at a time? I'm running a hallman so its gonna be me turning the knob up. Should I even up the boost at this point?
The 'play it safe' method would be to drive it til you're comfortable it'll hold together...then beat it...then turn up the boost if it hasn't broken.
the rajicase method is...first start, oil change, drive around the house/block, oil change, 1 pull, max boost.
i think both methods have merit.
always trying to make it lighter and faster
^^former build: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-neglected-M3/
current build: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...car-build.html
instant grams: doktor_b
I turned the boost controller up a turn didn't really have much affect on it, if any. I'm going to crank it up another turn tomorrow and see if it moves any. They say the hallman with the stiff spring will up the boost a lot if desired. I am thinking there must be a point at which it starts to have an affect at all.
The car pulls great for 8/9lbs, I am definitely having a learning curve with the new clutch. I moved my seat a bit today and got a clutch stop and that seems to have helped a ton. Part of the issue is most likely the 14 months since I've driven a car with a third pedal.
Also have the thing completely back together. My stress level is down a ton. I am going to toss it up on the lift again and take a look at everything on the underside. I am concerned with my tranny mounts. I've gotta take a look at them and make sure they are tight enough. Could just be new found power, or possibly my drivers side engine mount.
terrible picture, oh well.
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