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Thread: MK60 ABS Standalone info

  1. #101
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Oahu / Los Angeles
    Posts
    1,016
    My Cars
    S54 E36
    Quote Originally Posted by bimmerbumm193 View Post
    So there is conflicting info on the brake light signal to the MK60 unit. Some guides say to ground the signal when brakes applied, one says ground when brakes NOT applied and someone else said they applied 12V when brakes applied. Which one is it?

    Also I just installed a Z3 booster from a car that had DSC and it seems to fit properly into the E36.
    My notes from Douglas Wardell say:
    The MK60 requires a “notification” when the brake pedal has been depressed in order to know when to monitor and regular wheel slip as required. The proper signals are GROUND when the pedal is NOT pressed and open circuit when the pedal is pressed. This signal is provided by the yellow/white wire.


    The best way I’ve found of accomplishing this is splicing into the switched voltage side of the brake pedal switch that is located near the top of the brake pedal arm in the driver footwell area. Use this switched voltage to trigger the DPDT relay which should be wired as follows:


    Pin 30: Yellow/black, yellow/white or yellow brake switch
    Pin 85: Ground
    Pin 86: Switched power brake pedal switch
    Pin 87A: Ground

  2. #102
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    4
    My Cars
    1990 M3
    Acknowledging the fact that his thread has seen no activity in over a year, I am hoping some folks still monitor it as I need some help!! I'm installing an MK60 in an E30 and I'm having trouble sourcing the correct metric tube nuts for the hard lines. I learned the hard way that the M12 tube nuts need to be longer than typical at 15mm. I somehow would up with M12 nuts that are only 12mm long, and when I put fluid in the system, they didn't seat the flare tightly against the body of the pump, and all leaked past the threads on the nuts. So, my $64,000 question is, where did everyone source their long 15mm M12x1 tube nuts? There are lots available online, but, literally only one specified the thread length. It was 15mm thread depth but it was for 6mm tubing, and I am using 3/16" tubing... Would it be unwise to use M12x1 x 15mm tube nuts for 6mm tubing on my 3/16" tubing? I spent hours and hours scrolling through many different threads on MK60 swaps and literally 99% of the posts deal with the software side of the project, not the hardware side. Any help is greatly appreciated!!

  3. #103
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Ottawa, ON, Canada
    Posts
    4,937
    My Cars
    e90 M3,X5,e46 racer
    Some options: Junk yard, find an old car and just cut the nuts off there. Most at the pump are in really good shape since they don't see elements. Or, just auto parts store. There are metric nuts for honda, european, etc ... and when i got mine, they had a bunch of different lengths. Or go to a brake shop with a proper nut, and get them to match it ... they must have a bunch in stock.
    Check out the 8legs Racing page: https://www.facebook.com/8legsRacing/


  4. #104
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Central, MD
    Posts
    3,855
    My Cars
    1995 M3
    Pretty sure I got mine from Summit racing, but they carry multiple brands so maybe I just got lucky. I also bought stuff from brakequipproducts.com. Not the easiest site to find stuff, but quality.

    My other go to is fedhill.com but I don't think they had the M12's needed.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Oh yea, what I found myself doing was using the brakequip catalog to get a part number, then order from Summit or brakquickproducts. The big brakequip catalog has dimensions for all the fittings. https://brakequip.com/catalog.pdf

  5. #105
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    4
    My Cars
    1990 M3
    Quote Originally Posted by ScotcH View Post
    Some options: Junk yard, find an old car and just cut the nuts off there. Most at the pump are in really good shape since they don't see elements. Or, just auto parts store. There are metric nuts for honda, european, etc ... and when i got mine, they had a bunch of different lengths. Or go to a brake shop with a proper nut, and get them to match it ... they must have a bunch in stock.
    Yea, I've been considering the junk yard, but there are none close to me with foreign cars, but I'll keep looking. The MK60 I got had all of the nuts attached. That's how I discovered that the M12's I used first time around were too short and caused the leaks. two of the factory M12's are for 6mm tubing and I'm reluctant to use them on 3/16 which is what I'm using. I vaguely recall someone saying that they will safely work with 3/16 but I'm not sure. I'll also try finding a brake shop, but none come to mind locally.

    Quote Originally Posted by aeronaut View Post
    Pretty sure I got mine from Summit racing, but they carry multiple brands so maybe I just got lucky. I also bought stuff from brakequipproducts.com. Not the easiest site to find stuff, but quality.

    My other go to is fedhill.com but I don't think they had the M12's needed.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Oh yea, what I found myself doing was using the brakequip catalog to get a part number, then order from Summit or brakquickproducts. The big brakequip catalog has dimensions for all the fittings. https://brakequip.com/catalog.pdf
    I've been using Brakequip's catalog and was optimistic they'd have a long reach M12x1 for 3/16 tube, but the only long reach they offer is for 1/4" tube which is similar to the stock M12x1 for 6mm tube. I'll double check Summit too but last I saw, they didn't spec thread length like 90% of all vendor's, so who knows what they actually are. I know that the 11.4mm long M12's are what leaked my first time around, and I'd assume unless they're spec'd as long reach, I'd probably get 11.4mm ones... Will check Fedhill.com too.

    Thanks for your help guys. I'll post up what I ultimately find so others hopefully won't waste as much time as I have trying to solve this problem...

  6. #106
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Seattle, Wa
    Posts
    2
    My Cars
    2007 335I
    Quote Originally Posted by gpeterson View Post
    Looks like I figured it out, had to make up a minimal VO for ncsexpert.
    I know this one is 6 years old, but I'm going through the same thing. I would like to modify a few parameters on a standalone MK60 but can't communicate with NCSExpert since I don't have any other modules to get the VO/FA information from. How do you make up a VO in NCSExpert?

  7. #107
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    San Francisco
    Posts
    9
    My Cars
    1990 e30 325is
    I just want to thank the folks for this thread, it's been invaluable for putting in the MK60 in my e30.

    I recently discovered that the E46 330 has a longer variant of rear sensors, that means you don't have to grind down the rear trailing arms on the e30 to fit them. You need to space them about 1.6mm- I used washers.

    The part number is: 34526752702 or https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...2702-MFG4.aspx

  8. #108
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    :)
    Posts
    75
    My Cars
    -
    Quote Originally Posted by rbreezee View Post
    I know this one is 6 years old, but I'm going through the same thing. I would like to modify a few parameters on a standalone MK60 but can't communicate with NCSExpert since I don't have any other modules to get the VO/FA information from. How do you make up a VO in NCSExpert?
    I wrote instructions for this on another forum, here they are. I suspect that for us running this thing as standalone you can skip steps 1-10 and just copy my m3.ssd data from step 6 in the post and use it as-is, but I can't guarantee this is the case.

    1. Read the VIN from the unit in INPA
    2. https://bimmer.work/ -> Paste VIN
    3. Get the Type (BR93 in my case since the donor was apparently a vert)
    4. Get the Production Date (March 03 for me)
    5. Open NCS Expert, File -> Load Profile -> Revtor's -> VIN/ZCS/FA -> Enter ZCS -> Choose E46 -> Paste VIN, click Calculate checksum, OK, press Cancel. Look at last letter in the FG line, this is the checksum for your VIN
    6. Create a file called m3.ssd with the following in it:

    M E46_CODIERSCHL ALL
    A 001 WBABR93433PK02711N E46_#0303*BR93 \
    $210$249$354$388$399$431$441$459$464$473$481$494$5 02$520$521 \
    $522$534$550$640$645$650$661$674$692$710$785$845$8 53$876$925$992

    7. Replace the VIN on line 2 with your VIN with checksum
    8. Replace 0303 with your YYMM of production
    9. Replace BR93 with your Type
    10. Replace all of the $### garbage with the options your car has on bimmer.work and make sure you keep the space \ round about where I had it, I have no idea what the max line length is
    11. Go back to INPA, click Open file, open the m3.ssd file, click ZCS/FA.f file, click OK, click Back
    12. Plug computer into ABS
    13. Click Process ECU, choose MK60, click OK, click Read ECU
    14. Open NCS Dummy
    15. Open the NETTODAT.TRC file you read from the ECU, it should be C:\NCSEXPER\WORK\NETTODAT.TRC
    16. Set:
    BAUART_MK60 - CSL
    (I don't know if these matter, they might be DSC only settings but I set them anyway)
    UEBERSTUERNM_MUE_1_2 - wert_11
    UNTERSTEUERN_MUE_1_2 - wert_03
    UNTERSTEURSCHWELLE_2 - wert_04
    17. Export FSW/PSW -> Export FSW_PSW.MAN
    18. Go back to NCS Expert, Change job, SG_CODIEREN, OK
    19. Execute Job


    On another topic, is anyone here running an MK60E5 in standalone mode? Is there a way around needing a gateway module to communicate with it? Will sending it to be reprogrammed in the UK allow you to communicate with it directly?
    Last edited by Chibo; 05-14-2022 at 11:03 PM.

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